Evening Star Newspaper, March 26, 1892, Page 11

TOO STOUT OR SLIGHT. The Many Trials of a Lady of Fash- ion Nowadays. ALL DEPENDS ON THE FIGURE Fhe Dumpy Little Woman Has to Forego the Princess Gown, While the Graceful Figure Me Lost ina Loose Jacket—Charming Styles for Dinner and Keceptions—Tight Skirts. Mpecial Correspondence of The Evening Star. New York, March 25, 1892. FASHIONABLE WOM- en's lot is not always a happy one by any means, though, as Ham- let says, by your smiling you seem to sayso. For instance, she may have ® lnxuriant growth of hair and by the prevail- ing mode be obliged to wear it tight to her head; she may bh: dumpy little figure, and therefore see herself forced to pleasure of wearing the princess gown—such » thing of grace on 8 tall, slender woman—or she may have » charming Mtle figure anu yet suffer the mortification of seeing it lost in one of the very modish loose ts made up in coaching style. and which s0 extremely becoming to the tall and ro- bust woman of the English type. But what is she todo? One of these jackets, which are made up with whole backs, adjusted across the shoulders, but failing in a species of wide box below, is now indispensable to the woman fashion. Of course they must be tailor- Made in every sense of the word, and they Qsually run in drab, fawn or tan box cloth, with large horn buttons and facings of velvet ef a somewhat deeper hue. But the woman who looks well on the street is not always so fortunate in the drawing room, and vice verse. fact, many women are too tall and too stout for the pinched-up, packing-box affair called a | §} modern home. She has the appearance of « fed piano in w emall fiat, and now it is that ‘ght and more gracefully built sister eomes in for her triumph. FOR INDOORS. Thave some charming indoor toilets to show Take the ore in my initial illustration. Srctitog could be more suggestive of that re- forego the; of the skirts being slightly draped and orua- mented with ribbons or flowers. gathered Corsages are encircled at the waist tibbos, which then makes its way to the the form of a bow between the shoulders falling to the bottom of the dress. In fact, I may say that ribbons are the rageof the day, twining themselves in everywh yet like all fads of the passing moment, it may be easily overdone and pushed to s degree that — ruins the very effects you ate seek- ing for. The fourth illustration pictures indoor toilet, suitable for dinner or reception, made up in mauve crepe de chine, mauve be- ing one of the most modish colors of the sea- son. This gown is trimmed with silver galloon, producing a lovely effect. and should be made rincess over amauve merveilleux. The crepe je chine is simply stretched over the back and side pieces, but the center seam of the back must be very bias, so.as to make the trail fall gracefully, and the other rte of the skirt left side you cut the bust gores in the material and the lining, but you simply bring the right over and drape itonaform. On_ this side the gore is only cut in the lining. irt bas three rows of the silver gulloon d the bottom of the ilver fringa The |, rounded at the are draped as indica bottom with fringed border and caught ap with 4n ornament in silver passementerie. form and hooks down the front, the Eivtdert being only in the lining and the sec- ‘ond in both lining and stuff. The sleeves wade up on fitted linings and the deep cuffs are Of lace. The side and back pieces are also cut princess, and the latter must have fullness ‘@nough to produce the cascading pleat of silk Shown on the left and reaching up to the neck. BENGALINE RECEPTION DRESS. ‘The second illustration presents another view of thischarming reception gown. The collarette fm Venetian point is gathered at the neck. It is inted over the bust and diminished toward and then forms the Watteau folds at the back. On the right the lace is separated frogs the shoulder by a rosette bunch of black ribbon, a continuation of the straight collar, from the back of which it descends to the slope of the waist cascade-wise. The ceinture is bewed on one side and hooked on the other. Ail soft and clioging materials will be made this season without gores, and either be to the figure by bias cutting or else strained across the bust to fit plainly and then | as into the figure at the waist. That is, fit will be attained by making use of very email and tightly drawn pleats. And speaking itis well to bear in mind that since the doing away with foundations, the silk lin- | ings should be not in harmony with the dress | material, but in artistic contrast. For in- dull rose, heliotrope or greeu, and the edge is finished ‘with a narrow pinked out frill of the same, 00 that when You raise the skirt you gain very pleasing effect by displaying this fri @ad colored lining. VELVET corsage. ‘Velvet promises to be very modish for trim- Ming, both as appliques and also for narrow borders edged with fine silk gimp, and velvet eorsages are likewise mach affected for recep- tion “gowns. The third illustration repre- Bente one of these stylish garments in Russian .. With aceinture set off with gold spangles. fancy waist bas creneiated basques at the Back double fronts hooking in middle. ‘The under front is in light green satin merveil- Jeus, or you may make ure of surah, pleated very fine in the style of undergarmen above this there is a chemisette of guimp or Jace made up on silk lini ‘and on the other with small stuck into the gold galloon which serves es trimming for the to; ‘the corselet and for the co! front is ron with a» =r the middle, and bP bows of fringed Tevers are faced Deck and sides are y THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D.C..SATURDAY, MARCH 26, 1892-SIXTEEN PAGES. ATTRACTIVE HOMES. Some Thoughts in Regard to the Summer That is Coming. FURNISHING A COTTAGE. It Oan Be Done Cheaply but With Artistic Eéfect—Comfort and Not Show Should Be the Object Sought to Be Ovtatned—Some Embroideries for Curtains, ‘Written for The Evening Star. HOUGH OUR MARCH has been decidedly of a boisterous, blustering nature it will soon be gone, and with April we have a right to look for something mild in the way of weather. With thoughts of fair, warm days come plans, more or less vague, for the hot weather still fur- ther distant Unless circumstances are such as to make no choice Necessary, or even possible, may be, there is always acertain pleasure in discussing where the summer holiday shall be spent and with what its days, weeks or months shall be filled. Travel suits some people; others prefer a pleas- it place and a prolonged stay in it, and such Sre apt to like © summer home of their own, more or lese pgetentious, where the family life can be transferred and go on much in the usual way in general, with the healthiul change and variety fo necessary at least once a year. FURNISHING & SUMMER COTTAGE. The building of a summer cottage is a plons- Ure, first in the planning, the overseeing if possible, and when that is done certainly the furnishin, Peo- whose cottages are sim- ent, to correspond with y life to be lived in them, seem to me to extract the most pleasure and benefit from their outings. Everything for comfort, nothing for show of itself, should be the motto of acottage, but wherever use can be com- bined with beauty of a simple character then let it by all means. This kind of cottage life 1s increasing every year by ‘mountain, stream and sea” of our land, and manufacturers and tradespeople who furnish the supplies of such establishments have taken the needs and tastes of the occupants well to heart. Such pretty things in furniture and fabrics may be found that to any one with any household taste what- ever the selecting of articles to complete a WHITE SILK DINNER DRESS. In the last illustration you will find portrayed an exquisite dinner gown in white silk, orna- mented with bows of moss velvet. It consists of an embroidered front and a redingote with train made princess style. corsage is pointed in front, from which the redingote is cnt fiaringly away. The sleeves of the embroid- ery are in gold and the berries in embroidered front is ornamented silk muslin ruffle, garnitured with bows of moss velvet connected together. This front is gored over the hips and made full enough so as not to be visible under the redingote. The sleeves are made up over fitted linings and are very fall at the top, 80 as to form folds. The revers are embroidered. The cut-out is set off with @ bertha of silk muslin,gathered and orna- mented on the shoulders with flat bows of the green ribbon. Another way of making up a dinner dress is with the quaiut directoire bodice, double- breasted, with large revers and coat tails, with which you we: deep folded sash reaching half way up to the arms in a contrasting color, for instance. a black silk skirt, black velvet di- Tectoire bodice. elbow sleeves of white lace, & deep sash of folded pink satin fastened on the left side and revers embroidered with roses. TIGHT SKIRTS AND SHORT warsTs. is no doubt a tendency to take up and popularize the tight skirts and short waists of our great grandmothers, the old-fashioned two- breadth skirt being closely imitated. To do this the width of the bottom must of course be diminished, for how could it be made any tighter on the hips, and finish the back with a mere suggestion of gathers, just enough to conceal the opening, the requisite flow being obtained by the bias slope. The effect of this innovation will be to make visible au unbroken outline of the wearer's form from waist to ankles, or in ® princess gown from neck to ankles. To increase the clinging quality of the skirt it will be lined with a lgnt wadding, so as to dispense with another underskirt. this extreme clinging style is to come in vogue it will necessarily put an end to tie train. All these new ideas may make uv a delightful pros- et for the woman who has the figure for it, Bat what about those who may be so unfortu- nate as to be either too slender or too stout? immer house is only a pleasant tusk. Sets of furniture both for interior and piazza use have nmade for some years, but each senson shows an improvement in the styles and addi- tions to the number of things manufactured specially for such uses. ‘BAMBOO THK FAVORITE. Bamboo has for some time been a favorite terial for light furniture of this kind, and iseven groater than be- I bear of some of the new bamboo stained red, with tterns cut to show the natural color beneath the stain, and some of the furniture intended for outdoor use hus the rough surface and is of heavier make than most of it, though all is strong if light and very serviceable. I spoke last week of nome of the thin materials, pretty for summer bang- ings, and since then I have seen another kind of goods which would be even prettier, though heavier in texture. is @ cotton cheviot, at 15 cents a yard, and is in fast colors und in- tended for dress material. The special piece | that took my fancy and made me intuitively think how charming a little room couid be made to look with this for draperies was of ¢ream white ground with the beavy diagonal weaving which gives it its uame. A balt- inch stripe of gray blue and three-inch stripe Of white Was the ground design, and ail over these were festoons of tiny pink ‘roses in light and dark shades of old rose, very graceful, in fact no better design and coloring would ’ be needed if the material were Lrocaded silk than | ia in this artistic cotton goods. Ot course «| fabric intended for summer gowns could not | be expected to be very durable where hard | wear would come to it, but for @ bed room at | a cottage, far enough north #0 that window draperies would not be oppressive, sumething very pretty might be made of it. EACH ROOM WITH ITA OWN CHARACTERISTICS. In a general way all chintz or similar fur- nisbings are about the same, such material de- manding « certain kind of treatment. Some special featuren, however, may usually be in- troduced, every room huving its own char teristics to be catered to. Long curtains with wide rufiles of the same and muslin sash cur- tains would look best at the windows, and re oF balf-round table draped for a dreas- ing table, a mirror inrge or small, as may be ‘ocurable, with curtains frilied also, hung ‘om aring in the wall above. If possible | there should be a bed, iron or otherwise, which | may have a coveriet hanging to the floor of the ebeviot, and curtains from a ring above similar to those over the dresser. An ottoman, made of s box may be, covered with the cheviot, a fall plaiting on the sides and ioose cushions on the light chairs are about all that can be done with it, The top of the ottoman and char cushions could be eusily renewed if used sutt- ciently for them to wear out, and so inexpen- sive » material could be thrown aside anyway after a reasonable length of time. For eni- broideries there are many tempting things dis- played this Lenten season; the finisned work is some of it beautiful, while the same or similar things are shown either simply stamped or be- Gun, sous to give un ides of the manner of orking. Large flowers, worked solidly in natural coloring, seem tobe a feature of the new designs: thus a luncheon cloth has hei stitched hem and ini solidly in the glowing red of t and with the leaves in green. & great deal of work, and perfectly executed We shall see, as I said in my opening sentence, the lot of a woman of fasuion ix not always such & happy one as the worl: 18 inclined to believe. ———__ +02 Not Playing Fair. From the Boston Transcript. Let a woman be killed in a railroad accident and if she has policy in a travelers’ insurance company her heirs may get the same sum that @ man’s heirs may, but let the poor woman be beaten and broken and the breath of life almost knocked out of her, as long as there is a bit of that breath left in her body so long she may not receive # bit of accident insurance money, even though her policy is agninst accident. will read it only to find this clause: “Except that this ticket insures Femaies against death only.” For women to be called fewales with a capital letter is sufficiently old-fashioned and barbarous, but for the travelers’ insurance not to insure them too agaiust accident is ivt playing fair. The theory probably is that women are not wage-earning creatures. Yetthe $15 a week or upwards that a mau’s accident policy him is scarcely as necessary to an insured capitalist as ——_ —— parents railroad accident on her way to buy spri nets, OF to the feminine head of « housebold whom @ like injury forces to hire nurses and extra ser- vice im ber home. It is s clause far, far behind the times; and, besides, it is not at all good busi- ness management to leave it. Thousands of women travel in these travelsome days and their money is as good to pay for accident cies in one company as another. nee Prevalence of Absinthe From the St. Louis Glove-Democrat. “Absinthe drinking is being carried extent today,” said Dr. J. G. Brown cago at the Laclede, possess an irresistible temptation for especually for young men, and not sinthe but cocaine is being used in quantities than I believe a been &: any other time. Some may argue sbuisthe han ne éieestlons qualities. Do believe in the iment lical shows that it is Beets rEteE ‘a ork, but not so pleasing as something more delieate for white linen, to my fancy at least. NATURALIWTIC EMBROIDERY. Another naturalistic piece of embroidery which I have seen is # venter piece for the table, rather large and round, with a deep burder of great, rich red roses and thetr leaves, worked solidly also, but with the liven @ut out close to @ outer edge of the rose wreata. This, too, fs beautifuily worked, but not as attractive to meas some other stylea Yellow roses and their leaves, ia the natural tints and shading. are on other linen pisces, snd all these are something vf a novelty, in Comparison to the most affected methods of the & few seasons. Ribbunshave by no means # their popularity, and yome of the prettiest effects in the new designs are gotten by their ‘use; all possible ways of embroidering them appear, varying from the lid, eatin-like finish te the dimple single or double vutlinmg. |For the medium treatment darning js much used, ‘and fs very good, without bei.g nearly as much work as the solid way. Darning is dono be- tween the closely worked outlines, and wants to be close enough tc give the silky effect or it is a failure; a pretty pieve of work in this style isa fringed square of fine linen, with a bor- der of violets and ribbon intertwined, the flowers solid, in vexy dull heliotrope shades, and the ribbon of paie lemon color. Button- holed ribbon, the atiteh being taken across the width of the ribbon and an outline worked on the other edge, and ribbons with the two out- lines and the rest filled with shallow with small and large flowers. The large, round center pieces have some beautiful de- signs. One is worked with pink chrysanthe- mums and gray green Jeaves and is 4 sharing thing both in pattern and coloring. ‘The Inrge and small laundry bags of which one sees 10 jauy wherever embroidery is sold seem al- ways much too pretty and elaborate for the intended for them tc fill. Some of shown are very dainty, those in the smaller size of white linen with delicate flowers and Large ones of brownish linen and crash, with beart- au iHit ita i j it fs 4; ") ing upon them, the papers exige or n fine feather stitching just mmde the cut edge is all that is necessary. These dainty rifles are always pretty for small it, for every one likes pretty belongings of this kind. ali for diplaying © number of pretty photo: cially for ing a nomi pre pI i seeall arecSeeeeres table and on Fialtwo-told screen for the pict hich is also high so that two tiers may be on each fold, and which are curved high enough in the center to accommodate an extra photograph at the top, making five on each fold. ‘A PHOTOGRAPH SCREEN, ‘The sereen is set on the table following the same angle as two of the sides, and just enough room is left in the smaller triangle thus formed on the table top for one or two orna- ments. There are several combinations of color and material and various positions where this may be best placed. ‘The table may be of mahogany with photo- graph screen covered with brocade in stripes of pink and white, with small flowers over it, or the stand may be enameled white and the screen be of orange yellow brocade with rather large design either in the same color of white. ‘To descend in the grade of materials to suit ordinary rooms cy table art = of pine, made by a carpenter and covere silvery green velours and the screen of India silk, white round and pink flowers, with green ribbons of fiend embroidered on linen in Scimilar way, Still another style fora bed room would be very pretty with chintz covered table and screen to match, and the blue and white cheviot I mentioned would be weil suited for mich # scheme, making a dainty addition to = simple room. f this little affair is of the richer material and placed in ® room where there ran piano, the prettiest place for it to stand is in the curve made by the piano, Any nook where triangle will fit in is suitable, and ly @ corner is well treated in this way igned fur a corner, however, the table may be considerably higher than when it is to set out into a room, ———__. Written for The Evening Star. HOW MUCH DO ANIMALS KNOW? Some Instances of the Hemarkable Intelli- Bence of Dogs. HE STAR OF LAST SATURDAY CON- tained an article entitled “Animals Thoughts.” the tenor of which was that dogs, horses, &c., gain little information through the senses of secing, hearing and touch; that for their ideas of the external world they de- pend almost exclusively upon the sense of smell. While the article in question was undoubt- edly correct in its conclusion that this world is toan animal aud extremely different world from what it is to us, yet it appears that this must be a matter of degree rather than esson- tial and fundamental difference. For instance, tne article said that “a horse, with its digits imprisoned in a horny hoof, is in a particularly ad case,” and argues that '“ae it is one of the elementary teachings of psychology that our perception of space in our vision of the world comes to us through our fingers,” therefore that animal can have but little idea of distance. Yetevery observer knowa that @ horse in some way doe’ obtain an idea of distance, and can calculate very correctly whether au obstacle too high for itto lenp over or a stream or gully too broud for it to jump acrows. AN INTELLIGENT PUG. Onr present household pet is = pug dog—if it be proper to call her a dog—with no special sagacity. Like most others of her age*and sex she is a great lover of candy, which seems to indicate that the sense of taste is developed along the same lines in animals and in men. I have just shown her a caramel and then sud- denly snapped it to the furthest corner of the room. She thinks it hes dropped somewhere near me and noses avout eagerly, covering a cirele three or four fect in diameter, Failing i sup into my face inquir- ingly. point te the ‘corner of the room six or eight feet away. Her eyes follow the direction in witich I point and she goes straight to the caramel. When her much- bousted nose fails her her eyes show her very accurately the direction and distance indicated by my finger. SHE KNOWS WHERE HER HARNESS I say in quiet, ordinary tones, “Where's your harness?” The harness is a contrivance whereby, wh be und I walk abroad, I pre- t her wandering too far away and falling into the clutches of the dogeatchier She has suck implicit faith in ity that Ihave never had the heart to explain to her the func- tions of the dogeatcher in our modern system of civilization. But at the word ‘harness’ she jumps from her bed, bounds into the next room, plunis herself with paws against the wall, under where the harness hangs, and turns tome with an appealing look und’ bark that asks me to take itdown, fasten it abouts Ler and accompany her in her morning walk. THIS CANINE WAS WISE. The last dog I had before this enme to me and left me under circumstances that always awakens within mea pang of regret. “I was spending the evening at the house of his owner, when I became acquainted with the expressed my admuration tor his inteliigence and affection. “All right,” said the man of the house, you can have Lim, he is of no use to us, and is eatiug his bead’ off. ‘Iwo hours later when I started to go Lome the dog went with me. When I opened the door next morning whut was my surprise to find him on my front porch, with the evident pur. pose of staying—und stay he did for several mouths. Ie was one of the nobiext animals thatever male aman feel ashamed when he recollected what race he belonged to. I can give but one or ti i y daushier wassenrching allabont ide and out, for her pet rabbit, when the’ dog came ap bebind bi don’ want you,” #hi want my rabbitt! The dog Jeft, but in less than five minutes came gain, bringing the rabbit in his mouth—hold- ing it carefully so as not to harm it, One Sunday morning I failed to find my blacking brush in its usual place—on a projeot- ing board in the celiar way. I commented, possibly in somewhut unchristian language, upon the melancholy fact that whenever I war in» special hurry to find anything it way r sonably certain to be somewhere else than in its customary place. A few minutes later the dog came up stairs, briuging in his mouth my missing blacking brush, which had fallen down cellar, and laid it at my feet, wagging his tail with self-satisfaction at the thought of the tears he was saving the recording angel on my account, DRIVEN Fuow HOME. One afternoon a lady, at that time a member of my household, on her way across the front poceb, not looking particularly where she was go home and stay there.” Idid not learn of ber hasty remark and its results until several hours afterward, when I came home from my work. On my way home I met the dog, appar- ently awaiting me at the foot of the hill, about @ quarter of a mile from the house. I’ petted him fora moment and invited him to follow me, but with an air of quiet dignity he rejected my invitation. I never saw him again. He did not return to his former master. He evidently had not forgotten bow he bad cast him off and given him away. When thinking of this “brate,” with bis it telligence, affection, self-respect and sonsiti ness to undeserved reproach, I have ofte wondered sadly what became of him in his de- clining years—in what unsheltored nook, amid ‘wuat pangs of hunger, cold and desolation the ing light of that noble life went out. d._ not wider, than is uaagined wag comtjr Ly Mocaenae eee PRUSSIA’S MEW PREMIER, Berlin Papers Pay Cordial Tribute to the ‘Kaiser's Selection, it Euleal aad Dr. Soe eines a ie show doubt as to the tion of the im, from WHAT WILL IT DO? How the Questions About the Weather | to Are Answered in Advance. UNCLE SAM’S PROPHETS. Night Seenee st the Sigual Offce—Curious Cipher Dispatches—Making the Forecaste— How the Reports and Weather Maps Are Prepared and Distributed. ——__—___. ‘Weitten for The Evening Star. NCLE SAM EMPLOYS three professional Prophets. Their ocen- pation is somewhat like that of the African rain- makers. They foretell the weather, predicting kes were falling fast. so two inches und, and the storm had only prophet pay 75 cenis with ‘wet and dry spells, hot waves and cold waves, floods and gales. 80 longastheir predictions turn out correct no- Dody pays much atten- tion, If they make mistake howls of derision and indignation arise. People have no use for prophets who exhibit fallibility like ordinary mortale, Prophesying about the weather is always an anxious business. It is very different from running an oracle after the Delphic pattern, dispensing ambiguous replies to fool questions, If tho rainmaker of the Congo promises « showor and it fails to arrive he is discredited asafraud. It is much the same way in the signal office at Washington. A week ago the chief government prophet. Maj. Dunwoody, redicted snow for the following day. At noon it had not arrived and the skics looked discour- agingly bright. He felt and therefore. Wath an effort at cheerfulness he said to his three small children: “My doars, if it snows this afternoon, I will give you 25 cents apiece. Three hours later ihe children burst into the library crying, ‘Twenty-five cents all round, papa! It's snowing Sure enough, the that by 9 in the of snow on the began.” Never did more gladness, THE WEATHER REPORTS, which come by telegraph to the signal office at 9 o'clock every night, are curiosities in them- selves, Here isan actual specimen, illustrat- a the style: joston, March 14.—Bashful barmaid damna- ble bony hirsute pirate. It is wonderfal what a lot this means. “Dashful” signifies that the barometer is 30.12 1 the temperature YO degrees Fahrenheit. ‘Barmaiu” tells that the wind is from the north and that fifty-two hundredths of an inch of rain has fallen during the last twenty-four hours. ‘Damnable” says that the velocity of the wind ix twenty-two miles an hour and that the highest temperature durmg the day was 42 degrees. covered with cirrus clouds. ‘-Hirsute” makes it known that the observations were made at 8 Pity that the dew point is $0 and that the local prediction ie for fair weather. “Pirate” communicates the fact that the highest wind velocity during the day was fi'ty-two miles an hour. Each letter in every word means some- thing, and in this way it is possible to con- dense a deal of information within » brief space, each observer huving his own key to the cipher fur making up dispatches. FROM ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY STATIONS. ‘These dispatches begin to ponr in at 9o'clock in the evening from 150 signal stations all over thecountry. As fast as they arrive they are translated by an expert into ordinary English. He reads them aloud in # sing-song tone, while four skilled men at deskw close by jot down the information tl y maps of the U map t 150 signal stations are indicated by as many small circles, in which the facts noted are pen- ciled with symbole and figures. One operator records the condition of the clouds and the direction of the wind atevery point, If itis clear at Chicago, for exumple, he leaves that circle unmarked. Supposing that it is cloudy, he marks lines across it. If partly cloudy. he shades only one-belf- of the circle. Rain is in- dicated by the letier “Ii,” snow by the letter 3%" ‘Lhe point from which the wind blows is shown by an arrow. By equaliy simple means the second operator recoris changes of ten- perature, and the third puts down barometric lunges. The fourth registers the tempera- ture und barometer at the time the observations were made, the velucity of the wind and the amount of rainfall during the past twenty-four hours. plote picture of the meteurological conditions at 8 p.m. ail over the United states. Upon jowing the prophet—only one of tite [8 Notions. Meauwhile, however, other things been going on. > THE PRINTERS aT work. atcases near by, set up in tabular form the data given in the dispatches as fast ns the trans- lator reads them off. Instead of single letters decimals to indicate barometer heights, &c. Thus they are enabled to do the work with sur- prising rapidi it per- ‘The tuble made in this way is to be printed in the right-hand lower corner of the weather wap published for the next day. At the sume time still another expert sits in front ofa brass plate exactly the size of a wosther map of the United States. The plate ing in position to the signal stations ‘They are not Iabeled in eny way, but he knows them hese maps, when finished, present a com- e is ou duty at any given time—bases his Two swift compositors, sitting on tall stools they have type words and figuresin their boxes, formed that no reading of proots is necessary. THR WIND AkRows. perforated with 150 square holes, correspond- all by location perfoctly,so that when the trans- lator of the dispatehes calls off Sacramento or Minneapolis he fite a little slug of lead into the right bole without a. moment’s hesitation. The alug bears an arrow crossing a circle, and the way in which it is set to point indicates the di- rection of the wind. If you will look ata weather you Reo arrows scattered all over it, and you will also notice that the circle through which each pai state of the weather at thatstation. Supposii that it was clear at the hour of observation circle will be white; if rainy, it will be black. ‘The usefulness of this brass plate will be preseatly seen. THE PROPHET GETS IX MIS WORK. At this. stage af the performace, when the contents of the 150 dispatehes have all been noted on the maps, recorded upon the brass inte and set up im type, the prophet steps i Pile hes seen hoeping ha ope upon the utes: while, but now the time has come for him Yo analyze the present situation and forecast the future for one day, two days, three days ahead. No wonder toi ie passes his hand through, is hair, while ‘his oyes assume a look, premonitory of » ie duck fk, ashe focls the afintas of idasenune coming upon bim. Turning toa ck this side ho begins to dictate in a low voice, saying: New fair weather, westerly increasing cloudiness and t for the entire detail ‘The clerk stylus in manifold, ‘once to the printers, the words Bony” declares that the sky is | fo can know where to settis ect success with, is obviousty incalculable. ———_— CONELING AS aN ORATOR . The Senator Whose Speeches Were Charac- terised as “Royal Purple Eloquence.” When the future American Mscaulay, if America ever havea Mizaulay, shall come to woad that grent debate on the French arms sale, says the Louisville CourierJournal he will haveas rich ® field for his imagination, for his eloquence and for his rhetoric as the English Macaulay had when poring over the musty volumes in the British Museum in which are preserved the debates when the British commons was the frst senate the world ever saw or ever willsee. The debate extended overs month of the session and Conkling delivered three elaborate speeches. Take them and read tiem. and one can form some estimate of the extraordinary powers of man as @ parliamentary debater. He was s man of magnificent mee; he looked the grand character old Benton arrogated to himself and nobody but himself, noteven Gen. Jackson. He had the air of a Spa gtandoe and was as proud asthe proudest one that ever stood covered in the presence of his sovereign. He was graceful of Person, splendidly and tastefully dressed, without any jewelry whatever; be was too lordiy for such ornamentation. Add to the figure of an Apollo and the face of an Adonis an intellectuality second of his day, the steadfast convictions of a fanattc and a will of iron, and you have Roscoe Conkling. But if he ‘excelled in any one aecomplish- ment more than all others it was his command of language. He spoke without premeditation better than John James ile talks after con- suiting every synonym in Webster and Worces- ter. For facility, fecundity and felicity of ex- pression no Seuator that ever sat in that body ever approsched him, unless it was Rufus Choate, who was as familiar with Homer in the original as he was with Milton in Eng] ur- man said he had never seen a man so thorough master of the language. One of his speeches ay characterized as “‘royal purple eloquence, and nothing better describes it. As master of sarcasm he excclled Thad. Stevens, and he could pay as graceful » compliment when in Tare vceurrence—#s Blaine him- | nce, the following: “Mr. Presi- | ‘k ot the law I turn to the Sen- (Qle. Thurman) as a Mussolman | turns to Mecca. I beg the honorable Senator tounderstand that [ look to him ouly asI would look to the common law of England, the world’s most copivus volume of jurispra- dence.” When Garrick was manager of Drury Lane Theater there was in his company Mra Clive, an actress not secoud to Woftington and scarce | secoud to Siddons. She was no friend of the manager, as he had no friend in the profession. One night she was standing in the wings ready to go on when she got her cue. play was “Lear” and Garrick was actitg as only he could act. The tears were roiling down Mra. | Chive's cheeks and she exciaimed, “Damn him, jhe could act a gridiron!” Some kindred thougit must come into the mind of the intel- |ligent reader who will get Conkling’s ou the French arms sale and his speech and carefully read them. peech chester Your Mission. If you cannot on the ocean ail among tie swiftest feet, Rocking on the highest billows, Laugaing at tite storms you meet, You ca stand among the sailots od yet witina the bay, If you are too weak to journey Cp the mountains steep aud high, You can staad within the valley While the muititade go by; You can chant a happ: Ax they slowly pass along, Though they cory forget the singer ‘shey may not forget the soug. Ifyou cannot in the confiict rove yourself a soldier true, If where smoke and fire are thickest ‘vhere’s u: kK for you to do; ‘When the battetield is silent, You can go with careful tread, You can bear away the wounded, ‘You can cover up the dead. cannot in the harvest eT up the richest sheaves, pe and gold Ifyou “ 2 Growing rank aga.ust the For it may be that taeir shauow ides the heaviest wheat of all. Do not then stand idly waiting For suite greater work to du; Fortune is a dckle She will never ¢ Go and toil In any Do not fear to do aitd dare; Af you want a eld of labor You cau tind it anywaere. ——_+e+ ——__ Up the Farrow. From the New York Sun. ‘The half-breed and I had been sway from camp for several hours, leaving only Sam, the colored man, there, and were returning by the mountain trail. ‘The last bend in this trail was seventy or eighty rode to the west of our camp und 200 feet above it, and we instinc- ively paused for a look. ‘There were the two tents, the horses and mules picketed beyond, a smouldering camp fire, the negro lying on the broad of his back with his head townrd us. It was 8 o'clock in the afternoon of a summer's day. Sam was ap- rently dozing, for it en effort for jim to raise # hand to brush away the flics which persisted in settling on bis face. We were about to go on, when Joe suddenly caught bie breath and grasped my arm and jointed to a spot about half way between the Base of th luff and the camp. was a sort of natural drain or furrow running alo: the earth, deepening in our direction, and here and there was a bunch of weeds to prove a little dampness. pase Was greener, ere roe fore I could make out ‘Then my eyes rested on a fall-grown mountain lion working his way up that furrow. He had alrendy accom- plished, half the distance and just at that moment near himself almost erect to take a tl “4 'y out and warn him,” I whi “It is too late!” replied Joe. “hould ip the beast would be upon him in « flash !” You have seen @ hunter stalking game, but heré wasa fierce and hungry wild beast stalk- ing « dofenselaas tan. and cl to do something, but—wait! see! It wane sight ever to be remembered to watch that lion making his way up advanced fout by foot. flattened out until you ‘vould havo t bim a skin spread out to be cured, and he dragged himself MAN AND HIS CLOTHES The Importance of Being Well Dressed toa Young Man, THE WORLD’S ESTIMATE Ie Based Upon One's Outward Appearance— There Should Be Nothing Loud or Con- spleuous in Attire, but a Tasteful and Happy Combination of Detatls. ‘Written for The Evening Star, TIS ALL VERY WELL for the moralist to es- sure us that dress does not make the man, but the world at large thinks otherwise While we are all will- ing to admit that « Person should not be judged by the clothes he wears, we know that greater respect than the one in shabby attire, and although we say it is unfair, is 1t not after all only natural? We must remember that not every individual member of society is able at first sight to dis- cern anoble character beneath a dilapidated hat or a worn coat, Whenaman attempts to obtain recognition by the world. the world has ‘Ro standard of nomeans by which to judge him except his appearance. He may have excellent qualities and be worthy of shining in the best society, but how are we to expect astrange world to be immediately cognizant of the fact? It sees the man only in his outward character. Ithas no other means of forming an idea of him, and it is but natural, therefore, that» man's recognition by the world is entirely de- pendent upon the impression he makes upon it by his dress and bearing. Let a man be ever #0 wicked if he but dresses and talks well the world will recognize him long before it will take any notice of the saint in rags--not that it will necessarily maintain or even acknowle the bad fellow when his true character becomes | known, for eventually the saint may obtain the recognition he deserves and the scoundrel his just deserts, but until the world has had an | pportunity’ of becoming acquainted with their qualities it will always give prefer- enee to the one ‘who is better P sowe for fine feathers and good birds are instinct- ively regarded as correlative, notwithstanding the repented demonstration of the falsity of such a belief. With all due deference, there- fore, to the moralist and our own convictions, the world is not to blame for allowing dress to determine the character of the man it clothes, for, as was said before, in the absence of any other introduction or recommendation, ap- pearance is the only criterion upon which socicty is able to base its opinion. DRESS AND CHARACTER. If young men would but appreciate this fact in their strife for recognition and throw aside for the time being the idea that a good charac- ter will introduce and carry them anywhere, if they are to succeed at all, they could make far better progress and attain more epeedy and beneficial resulta, In the tremendous struggle for existence « man cannot afford to take many chances or run too many risks, and when he finds himself dependent upon society for his welfare he will discover sooner or jater that the more he caters to the wishes and fashions of society, however incongruous or distasteful they may be to him, the better will socicty take care of him and the better will he be able to succeed. Itis, of course, very commendable to have the moral courage to practice your own rules of propriety and to adhere to your private notions and convictions, despite opposing in- flicuces, but unless your personal ideas happen jonize with the popular taste it is poor to be continually giving expression to unless your circimstances are such that ed not depend upon society n Rome, do pensate for the sacridice of our personal tastes. Society allows every one to bold whatever opinions he chooses, so long as they do not en- trench upon the establisbed fashion and creed { the community, and if a young man, with his way to make in the world, entertains ideas which run counter to those generally accepted, it is better for him to keep them to himself, for it ts ve r policy to strike at society, 80 long us he looks to society for support and aid, and he will find it to his advantage to let the world take care of itself and of him and not Kill the goose which lays the golden egg. STUDY TO BE WELL DRESSED. As the world lays so much stress on a man's appearance, every young man who is secking '$ fortune at the hands of society should make it = study to be well dressed. He may think that it makes very little difference whether his shoes are blacked or his cuffs and collar fectly clean of whether his clothes fit him nicely, but it makes @ vast deal of difference, for society has sharp eyes and is keenly ob- servant of such derelictions. ‘The average young man probably knows what to wear; that is, be is suiiciently observant and carefal to conform with the prevailing styles; but it is not the average young man who knows how to dress. He is inclined to imagine that the more expensive the-garments, the more elaborate the attire and the more pronounced the style, the better the appearance. ‘This, however, is not the case, for while it is, of course, necessary that a man's clothes should be good and fashionable, this isnot the sole pre- requisite of being well dressed. The secret lies in the study of dress; the attention to the effect of shades and combinations, of patterns and les, with respect to the individual wearer, the modification of a fashion in order to render it suitable to personal requirements or pecuil- arities, for that which looks well on one man might have directly the opposite effect upon another, and hence it is that we sometimes see who make themselves conspicuous tyle which is altogether un! liculous, but which, with a little taste and judgment, might be easily to harm with their cveemanse, In short, it isthe attention to the details of w ® well-dressed man. 4 PROPER COMBINATION OF DETaILs. When we sco « man who is traly well dressed he at once attracts our attention. There is nothing striking about any one portion of his —and fits bim about earth. You knew he moved, but you saw ne | motion except that of his tail. or lying quiet, the tail switehed back aud forth lng itenet tine martes mania a inate one ro was lazily Faised and waved scrou ‘When this i i J & & & F E I t , i ii : 4 = 4 i Fs i i 5 2 & BE u ? E E i E a it FF i j fi E the Hy 3B i ii it Wy ; i ft 2 i rt Hl ' H if : tle Hee a Hin het cert His i Fi i i F iE if | é é i ; i F j Fs % & is Hie HoH n AN IDEAL ROOMERANG. Langley‘: Interesting Expertments at the Smithsonian Inetitu‘ton. CIDENTALLY TO HIS INVESTIGATIONS Fespecting flying machines Secretary Lamg- ley of the Smithsonian Institution hae bee making some most int experiments with Boomerangs, which be regards as iliustrat- ing certain problems having reference te eerostation. For this purpose he recently had made to order a number of ideal Boomerangs, based as toshape upon mathematical principles. Or- inary boomerangs, such as are employed by the natives of Australia, would not serve. There are fifty of them in the National Mo- eum, manufactured for actual use in the land of the kangaroo, but not one in the lot will do what the typical boomer ang is advertised to do—namely, return to the thrower. They are all radely sbi curved sticks, doubtless - iT aped cur nicks, Prof. ‘euch ex; through practicing with them that, alibough s email'mex: he eas kre 100 vards and they will come back to bis feet ite own plane stan one-third of an inch thick and slightly toward the rounded ends, thinned gradi Polisbed. je angle. Such is the ideal ssmall counterfeit of which, cut board, will afford an amusing tration of the principle involved. The real instrument is held by one end horizontally and “skimmed” ‘through the air. THE SAME WITH CARDS. Perhaps you have seen Herrmann er some other adept in sieight-of-hend throw playing cards from the stage into the fourth gallery of a big theater. Itisa remarkable feat and yet the only difficulty lies in so flinging the card that upon leaving the fingers it shall revolve ‘once in its own plane. If it “wobbles” the re- sistance of the sir will stop it But, once started revolving in the manner described, it must keep on flying edge first uatil the foree which propelied it is used up. The does the sume thing. if «imilarly cast. Being wuficiently beavy,of admirable for throw- ing, and yet thin and sharp it travels wonderfully far. BOT WUT pors rt nerves? Nothing could be more simple. Did you ever see a boy at school place ascrap of card- board beneath his thumb nail, snap it with his other fore-dinger and send it flying across the class room? Suenealy enough, when it has te fight, suppomng that it has struck nothing, it starts to come back. Prof. Herrmann wiil in like manner throw a card balf way across the theater and it will re- turn to his feet. 1t does so because tt is easter for it to do that than todo anything else. Boing light the air sustains it somewhat, and, gravity acting upon it, it slides down the same plane by which it went up. To go in any other direction than back to the thrower ming playi sod" you your feet. tocome back. The instrument is easily revolved in its own plane than if ft any other form. Because it does so —s meeting the least resistance by the air, travels the maximum distance with penditure of force, and if turns like the card to the feet It flies so swiftly, being ite surface, that eravky, time to act upon it great distance it must reach the ground before getting back to the thrower, unless somewhat up given ex- ly cast re the thrower. — propertion to joes not have ‘IN aUeTRaLta. How did the “black fellows” lowest of savages in the scale of discover such « principle as that of und fal for other water fowl on the marshes, siles thrown were not easily recovered. was struck the stick unter could wade in and mise the boomerang, came for another shot. Properly would do this, at all events, possessed by the natives m ‘on more or less correct thom are merely’ beat clubs, coms bling the “rabbit sticky Indians fling at jack rabbit of the animaisas they j z j i? H i fE i i E i f i l A i | ii a [i F i Had to Re Dug Out From Under His Thurscay at Choctaw station on Texas and Pacific railway, about eight- eon miles west of Bonham, Tex. 0 west- bound freight train collided with an engine which was left standing on aewitch too near the main track. ‘The engine of the west-bound i &