Evening Star Newspaper, February 1, 1890, Page 10

‘we F THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON ’ D. C., SATURDAY, FEBRUARY J, 1890—TWELVE PAGES. “Tue BACK BEAVE.” WRESTLING IN THE DARK. The Best Way to Defend Yourself Against an Antagonist. MORE FFFECTIVE THAN FISTS, PISTOLS OR POWIE ENIVES— FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPHS OF A NOVEL BOUT IN A DARKENED PARLOR—BOXERS LEAKN- ING WRESTLING Tactics, (Copyright, 1890.) ten for Tre EVENIxe Stan. ‘or self-defense against an assailant who makes bis attack in the to compare with wr The speaker was at 3 Biost exact of athletic sciences, ‘But suppose the assailant uses a pistol ora B. professor of the hat in the dark, except at yse quarters, he will miss with a revol- . Evenagainst a knife the chances are better for the wrestler than any one else. Let me illustrate: It is not so many years ago since duels with bo: knives in dark rooms Were occasional epi 8 in the west. Some- times, for variety’s seke, I_ suppose, shot guns 1 0 see insuch encounters. ne ficht between two skilled pngilists under similar conditions. Wrestling is the most scientific of all athletic Sports, aiid the skilled profesional can tell by the mere touch how to grasp his opponent.even if the darkness be F You can re Qnderstand what ep advent he would Over an unskilled man, no matter how strong the latter tb “If attacked in bow would youde 2D, r ‘k by a powerful man nd yourself?” THE “STRANGLER'S HOLD.” NO. 1. “If I suape seize him in such way as to pinion both hands Until he dropped the weapon, I should try to throw bim at If unarmed, a simple lock would se - business; if not, and if he hap- ened to be nnusually ugly, 1 would give him he * which would end him in 8 twin, be very little fight left in believe. advantage of wrestling i the dark. It is the high le of self de~ fense. The best evide is that the leading sts all learn wrestling nowadiys.” I had a novel ocular demonstration of the fact that wrestlers can work as s¢ the dark as in the glare of the footlights yester- @ay afternoon, With the instantaneous camera and magnesium light as umpire and referee Ernest Roeber, the Greco-Roman champion of New York state. and Jack Carkeek, the cham- jon catch-ascaich-can wrestler, stood stripped the waist in a darkened parlor on west Street. Koeber is a Hanoverian twent Years old and I Weighs 184 por Bative of Michigan, twent: aud s ntitically im tive He ‘arkeek, who is a f age junds. Both men wore dark trunks. Bogan wrestling at @ : encountered Sebast strong man of Muuich:” Sorckich “Jup;” “Strangler” Evan Lewis. Greek Gi ad a score of Others. Carkeek, who bas been fourteen years @ professional, has competed in over one bun- @red matches here aud in England. THE “STRANGLER'S Bory.” Xo. 11. Sufficient licht was admitted to permit of Poising the camera, after which the room was ®xaim obscured in darkness. and the men went to work to iliustrate the intricate and danger- | ous holds, including those that are forbidden by the rules and claimed as “foul.” At the jgnal the flash light revealed Roeber fast in he deadly “‘strangler’s hold.” with Carkeeck’s | and his left arm under sof both hands being Pressed relentl on Koeber's diaphragm, while the latter ¥: and struggled to escape from the © g embrace. Asecond flash dis a variation of the fame fortidden bh Carkeek was on his nees with Roeber's right arm hagging his beck and bis left encircling the Michigan men's throat ina vice-like grasp. This is the hold which Evan Lewis introduced and which made bie feared by ail who met him. Most referces @eciare it fonl, but some are latitudinarian enough to allow wrestlers to use almost any Quctics they please, although they are distinctly barred by t oa “This bold” panted Roeber, as the men used ‘for breath. “is »imply choking a man ed with Lewis he twice; 1 brok ay the first t wriggle out t ling catch-as-c.! an. rofessionals have got the hold now, but they ly try to uve it” TRE “DOUTRLE NELSON” Loce. Again the men set to work in the darkness, A third flash showed Roeber in the throes of the “double-Nelson” lock—a neck-breaking. Qrushing bold from which there is no escape, durk there is nothing | t he was armed, I would | half choked, you may | * second trip. | All the | unless the victim's strength bal er —— THE CROWNING GLORY OF WOMAN, | ing pates, to that of his t. The is used in both Greco-Roman snd catch-as- cateh-can wrestling. Carkeek stood immedi- ately behind the Hanoverian with bis arms under Roeber’s armpits around the back of his neck and clasped behind the latter's head, which was forced forward on hia breast. ——- — —_ apparently powerless in ‘ir terril 0] In this hold, which is barred in England and Canada, but silowed here, although many tm pos consider it an anfair one, as liable to in- ict serious injury, the fingers must not be in- terlocked. Cl the fingers is barred “foul” at all times, for the double reason that such a clasp cannot be parted and that it en- ables the owner of the stro: wrist to bend back and even break the of his rival. The moment such a clasp ia ol ed it is the duty of the referee to award the match to the other man on the “foul.” Ww, THE “prs.” The next rift in the darkness showed a re- markable sight. Rocber was standing on his | head, bracing himself on his hands, both feet straight in the air and describing a curve out- ingle . from which the latter was break- The only way to escape from the on” effectively is by bending down low, jumping on your head and turning a som- ersault to the floor. This ia called “the spin,” and should not be attempted by any man who has not the strongest kind of a neck. Other- wise the chances are even that be will be picked up with a broken neck. | THE BACK HRAVE. | One of the most dangerous of all holds, “the | back heave,” was next illustrated by the athletes in the dark. Carkeek had grasped | Roeber by the right arm and shoulder and | with the aid of the ‘‘reverse heave”—a combi- nation movement of arm and hip wo elevate an | opponent, had noisted him on his back. When | the camera caught the pair Carkeek was strain- | ing to throw Roeber over his head. but in vain, | for the Hanoverian had secured a hold on Car- | keek’s left leg with his right foot that effect- | ually stopped the latter's tactica, A “back heave” at the hanas of a strong wrestler would | place his rival hora du combat in @ twinkling | aud might disable bim, THE “SIDE-ROLL” FROM THE “The most effective hold,” said Champion Carkeek, “is the neck lock. There are others that are very useful and which every wrestler has to learn’ These are the palm lock, body jock and hip lock. ‘These are al! allowed under the rules. ‘The ‘donble Nelson’ is a very hard lock to acquire. In Greco-Roman wrestling you are not allowed to catch the legs or tociasp hands so as to break fingers. Iu making the “bridge’—that is, arching the back and resting on bands, elbows, bead and feet, so as to avoid fail—the mau on top is allowed to press his forearm aguinst the under man’s neck, but he must not press his finger “Would not the foi man as quick as the knuc Yes; but there's nothing to prevent the un- der man from rolling over. ‘the ‘side roll’ is one of the w f escaping from the bridge. Ii you are down you seize your opponent's wrist and roll over quick, You can rolj him under if he isn’t scientitic. Sebastian Miller 18 the greatest roller I know. AMERICAN AND ENGLISH WRESTLERS. | “American wrestlers are cleverer than the English now,” Carkeek continued, as he rubbed down his big arms. “The greatest wrestlers today are George Stedman, who is mpion of Cumberland and Westmore- better known as the ‘back hoid’ style—and Tom Bragg, the Cornishman. The latter was over here some filteeu years ago. but the English wrestlers are not in it. When Bibby and Acton camo here they could tind nobody to equal them at catch-as-catch-can. w we have Lewis, Greek George, Miller sud elf and we have all beaten them at their nm game.” | Both men had by this time doffed their ‘tranks and resumed their ordinary street dre ~ The daylight again streamed into the parle m pressure choke a les?" land sty | my w,” said my chaperon, as we came away, ou have had an illnstration of what can be done by skilled wrestlers in « friendiy bout iu the dark. In an encounter in dead earnest with an assulant they would not be so geutle. I have known a single wrestler to floor tive men in as many seconds simply by using ordinary | tactics, and they were tough characters, too, | Depend upon it, they would have stood even a | poorer chance in the darkness than in daylight, | for while his science never deserts him they would have fought at random. The man who | used up the five ruftians was Matsdda Sorakichi, } the little Jap.” G. H. Sanpisoy, | { ser. Written for Tux Evexrse stam, lhe Age. You say, my friend, this is the Iron Age: | ‘That's trite: men now the fron so anneal— | For hardened peculation there's such rage— "Tis Otter far to call’t the Age of Steel, | Rondeau.—Praise Not. | Praise not one’s Iife until it ends; | Nor bridge that o'er a gulf extends, ‘TAL you are on the farmer side; Nor purse, howe'er so tightly tied, ‘Till you know what it comprehends. Him who to prosperous, proud folk bends, Aud compliments and presents senda, And deems his motive unespied, raise not. Him who his cash too lavish spends, Nor ever to the needy lends; ‘The garb that is assume for pride; ‘The face with on!y carmine dyed; The tongue that truth with falseiood blends, Praise not. —W. L. SHorMaxEn, ————— H SOME NEW HATs, | What Will Probably be Worn This Spring. From the Hatter and Furricr. The early spring styles are neat and shapely, with no prominent changes, In derbys the proportions are small, with crowns ranning from full to medium round. In curis almost everything has been tried, with a preponder- ance in favor of an open round curl, Some Stanley curls are shown with flat set and others full set When properly rounded and set the Stanley curl is very neat and suitable for spring wear. Just at this time soft hats are having a boom, particularly in tourist shapes, which un- der different fanciful names have been put upon the market in very attractive styie. Pocket hate and crushers are also in very active worsted, In mixtures aiso green dominent color. Should this prove to bea ular fad there will be Lomngpos peters for green hats, both in solid colors and mixtures, and it may’ be well for manufacturers in spare moments to experiment om very dark greens and mixtures and be ready when the comes, usual, + | by — Jayne’ | and not at all injurious, Timely Hints for Those Wishing to Grow Old Gracefully. THE CARE OF THE HAIR—AMERICAN AND ENGLISH WOMEN—POINTS WORTH NOTING—SHAMPOOING —ABOUT BALDNESS—TRANSMITTING DISEASES— COLOR OF THE HAIR—NoTES, ANY a woman is today lamenting and wailing over her scant, uneven pply of hair, poorly supported by artificial substitutes, while her more fortunate sister is reveling under the thick, glossy waves of a lux- uriant suit. It is an indisputable fact that a handsome head of hair is » largely redeeming feature to an unfortunately homely miss, while it but adds to the charms of an otherwise pretty woman, American ladies do not give that at- tention to their hair that their foreign sisters do, Abroad it is a part of a girl's education to know how to keep her bair, hands, feet and complexion in perfect condition, American girls who are educated abroad or who have maids to attend them are nearly the only ones who give their hair anything like the attention the foreign damsels bestow upon theirs. The Majority let it go any way, and elegantly dressed women can be seen on the streets any day with their hair sticking out in every direc- tion, like the rays seen in chromos of the set- ting sun. Speaking with a hair dresacr a few days since a Star reporter asked why there are com- aratively so few ledies with large full suits of ir nowadays, “People are too rough in the treatment of the hair,” was the reply; “especially those who arrive at maturity with very long thick hair. Care should be taken to avoid breaking it, and broken hairs lead more largely than any other cause to thin hair. It should be combed gently with a tortoise or horn comb; the latter is preferable, as it gencrates less electricity, Rubber and metal combs are great generators of electricity and cause a snapping noise when being used, which is very detrimental to the health of the hair.” POINTS WORTH NOTING, From the conversation which followed and authors cited upon the subject Tuz Sram man learned a good deal. Keeping the scalp clean is one of the most important things concerned in the preserva- tion of the hair, This is best accomplished by shampooing the hair once a week, Produce a strong lather and cleanse the whole scalp thoroughly. There are a number of prescrip- tions for washing the scalp which are useful which cannot be said of the thousand aud one dyes, restoratives and chemicals for bleaching purposes. Probably not one of these is harmless. At times a stimulant may be needed to soften the skin and nourish and strengthen the roots of the hair, butas arule oils, pomatums and the kind clog the har with grease, render it sticky and musty and obstruct the pores of the scalp. Fortunately, be it xaid, doctoring the hair and changing its color has gone out of fashion aud most of the women wear their hair just the color and many in the condition nature provides, SHAMPOOING THE HAIR, American ladies find much more difficulty in washing the hair than those of Englaud be- cause of a difference in texture. English women have splendid heads of hair, but it is geuerally coarse and heavy. American women, on the contrary, have soft, fluffy hair and it is susceptible to being done up in a greater variety of styles than the hair of foreign women. This advantage in finen of texture, bowever, works to their disadvan in taking care of the hair, as it is more difiicult to handle with- out getting it matted and tangled, especially in giving it a shampoo. A good method of doing this is to braid the hair, commencing about four Les from the head and braiding to the ends. Then wet the scalp and with a sponge apply a !ather made from the best soap. After rubbing the sealp thoroughly with the flugers wast the bead with clean water and let the hair dry naturally. Do not sit by atire or near a gas burner, as some women do, as the heat will make it brit- tle and breakable. It is reaily best not to even use a fan, but take pienty of time, which will be from an hour to an hour and a half. It should not be combed or brushed until per- fectly dry. When time, however, isa matter of importance or the natural impatience of most women to do itand be done with it is un- controllable a towel may be used in wiping the hair carefully aud then the fan process em- ployed to hasten completion, Of course there are many ways of shampooing the hair, but the simpler the procedure the better for its preservation, ABOUT DOING UP THE HAIR, After washing or wetting or getting the hair wet too much care cannot be taken in having it dry before doing it up. In dressing the hair avoid straining it by doing it up tichtly. The style of drawing it all and twisting it tightly upon the top of the head is said to be injurious, aside from being often productive of headache. The tendency of the hair on the back of the head is to grow downward, and drawimg it tightly upward so constantly is cal- culated to break it wt the back of the neck. The style of braiding it and twisting it into a coil at the back, from which two small curls are left hanuing, or of twisting the hair into two strands aud forming what is called the chain link, which droops from the crown of the head to the edge of the neck, is not only becoming to most women but is considered the best possible arrangement conducive to its reservation and growth. The “Langtry” not is worn to advantage by women with shapely heads, pretty hair wand plenty of it, A bunch of Uright hair looks pretty indeed be- neath the big, fashionable, romantic-looking hat—outside of a church or theater. A smali quantity of hair never looks so miserable and woebegone as when roiled into a little wal- nuiy knot and worn under a large hat, though one sees the same daily on the streets, MIDDLE-AGRD WOMEN with none too much hair of their own to worry Over can set off what little they may have by wearing it high up. Loops and bows and rolls ot kindly artificial hair can be cunningly ar- rauged among the real hair or the real hair in- terwoven withthe “silent partner.” so to spe so that the whole can be worn with a contidin sense of undetected security, ‘The “ coil founded from Mary Anderson's sty! hair dressing is soft and pretty, but elaborate. The half of the hair nearest the head has to be crimped; the other half is left straight and twis' to aring with jaanty curls pending from the middle. A tlufly fringe is worn in front. Fringes cre as popalar as ever and will never go out of date as loug as the same are worn by the princess of Wales, CUTTING THE Harn, “When, after cases of short and severe illness or long continued ill health,” said a creditable writer recently, “‘the hair falls out ‘by the hand- ful,’ it should be eut quite short and kept clipped for at least a twelvemouth,” Another point to be carctuliy noted is the manner of cutting the hair. ‘Tlie weakest and thinnest growth is almost invariably along the central parting and about the crown, At these points then the bair should be clipped more frequently than elsewhere, and the hairs on the top of the head should be kept as short or shorter, than. the sides and back, where the growth ix stronger. A weak solution of the essential oils of thyme or rosemary or strong rosemary tea may be rabbed in to stimulate the growth, An ‘excelleut preparation for the removal of dandruff also for « cleansing wash while the hair is short is made by taking the yolk of one eg, one pint of rain water and one ounce of rosemary spirit, beating them thoroughly together and using warm, rubbing the lotion into the skin of the head. AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION. ‘The best method to avoid scalp troub'es, the falling out of the hair and premature baldness is to use nothing but clear water and good soap ou the head, A gentle rubbing is exhilarating to the scalp and is usually all the stimulant the hair needs. Dandraff is an exudation from the pores of the scalp, and spreads and dries, form- ing ascale or scurf, A frequent use of a fine tooth comb is likely to irritnte the scalp and cause dandruff to appear. If the hair is fallng out and a stimulant is needed rub the scalp with brandy with a little sult in it, WHENCE THIS BALDNESS? Baldness is due to several causes; heredity is one of them, but not necessarily so if proper attention is paid to the hair. Some of the mem- bers of a family may get bald early, while others hold their bair ail their lives in good condition and often without getting gray. Ill- ness, particuiarly fever, often causes baldness. Excessive brain work will cause the hair to deaden and arop out, Women are not so sub- ies to baldness as men, trom the fact that the tg and bounets they wear admit ventilation bho Sg the head. There are more women, though, in this world than the public is aware of or that they themselves are wi toadmit, Ifan ted h: cane sh sweep along Connecticut avenue some bright or Penn- among the promensders some ieeoy okinngy dul of hair, not to mention shin- would be exposed to the astonished Sree slong when they had before seen only lowing locks and wavy tresses. Prematare baldness and thinness of hair rented and luxuriant coils made to fullness and beauty. Every one's scalp should produce 450 to 600 hairs to the square inch, These have buibs or follicles that ar with life from minute blood vee- the scalp. In ninety-nine cases out of one hundred loss of hair is caused by bad circulation in these blood versels. All human beings shed their hair at different times, but wi hen the hair continues to fall out and is per- ceptably thinner there is lack of vitality in these bulbs and they need attention, and ordinary attention will meet with the desired result. Ladies who do not understand the treatment of the hair should simply wash the bead often with warm water and pure castile soap. The water should be ten degrees below blood heat. Castile soap is the best, because it is made, when pure, of olive oil and contains very little alkali, THE COLOR OF THE HAIR. The color of hair is produced by the pres- ence of acertain amount of some miueral in- gredient in the cells. Blonde hair has mag- nesia, chestnut and brown a large proportion of sulphur and very little iron, while in dark and black hair iron exists in large quantities. White and gray hair have only a small quantity of sulphur and no iron atall. The reason that dark hair turns gray much sooner than fair hair is because the iron is less tenacious than sul- = Theorizing upon these facts efforts ave been made to restore the hair by rubbing the roots with washes manufactured of sulphur or iron in forms supposed to be capable of ready absorption by the hair bulbs. Neither iron nor sulphur can do harm used in this way, though the skin may be discolored tempora- rily, but dangerous consequences may result from the use of preparations of copper, bis- muth or lead, TRANSMISSION OF DISEASES. A lady cannot be too careful in visiting the hair dresser's, Many ladies carry their own combs and brushes with them. In all boarding schools every young lady should have a se; arate brush and comb. hair dresser should have the combs and brushes washed daily with soap and water and dried with powdered bran, The most of them do. Some dip their scissors in boiling hot water each time after using them. Infectious diseases transmitted by hair dressers are unfortuuately quite common. Studied cleanliness is the great means of avoid- ing it A FEW RANDOM NOTES. Do not wash the hair in well water. The lime usually found therein renders the hair harh and dry. Do not use a fine-toothed comb to “clean the dirt out.” The sharp teeth scrape and injure the tender young hairs just starting in life. Beware of using any nostrum whatever, no matter how plausibly the proprietor may place his claims before you. Avoid the use of alkalies and cheap soaps. as ne hair is always susceptible to injury from them. If your hair is not just the color you want, however, and you would preter to have it a beautiful bottom-of-the-deep-sea green,shading off at the ends into a lovely subdued copperas tinge, Just use any of the patent dyes for sale at many drug stores and your desires can be easily gratified, a DINNERS MADE TO ORDER. How They Are Produced and the Diffl- culties Which Attend Providing Them. “I go to Paris every summer,” said the pur- voyor of delicate edibles to a Stax reporter, “to procure for my establishment the latest fashions in catering paraphernalia. Such things as ice cream molds in now styles I have to buy and the freshest things for breakfast favors, bon-bon boxes, sachets, &e. Of course such merchandise is imported to this country from abroad by wholesale dealers, but if I should go to them I would have no assurance that what I bought was not of a mode past and gone. It is necessary in my business—ae much so as in that of a first-rate dressmaker— to serve everything after the most recent Paris manner. Peaple like ourseives, who have 4 reputation to sustain, cannot afford to supply ices in last year’s forms, or to sell pretty things of any sort that have been on the market and grown stale. Therefore, I visit once a year the French establishments which produce such articles and chose what I like best. I am shown all at once the samples for the season that is past and the season that ix to come and I can make my selection. Thus I have the satisfaction of knowing that whatever L offer my customers in Washington apart from mere eatables is unexceptionable.” HOW THE EATABLES ARE PRODUCED. “But where do you get your edible supplies?” asked Tue Svar writer. “We make nearly all of them ourselves, In this establishment are employed four expert cvoks, highly paid, and six other servants for supplementary work in the kitchen, Our ice creams and cakes of all sorts we manufacture ourselves, as well as very many of our candies, All such confectionery us will not keep well, like fruits glucées, we meke here. Likewise it is with whatever made dishes we serve and with pretty nearly everything else, When we re- ceive an order fora supper, say, the first thing necessary is to consult with the ‘customer as to the makeup of the menu, Next the marketing must be done. Very likely I go myself to the market and select the meat and vegetables re- Quired, the number of pounds of beef and mut- ton estimated for, the game or what not of the sort requisite, and the things necessary that grow out of the ground. Ali these provisions are then placed in the hands of the cooks, with acopy of the menu proposed, and instructions as to the time when the feast is to be ready. Usnaily they need no farther teaching as to the affuir, it being their business to understand such things, All this applies equally to a din- ner or to any other form of repast, When the time comes—say a couple of hours before the banquet, if a dinner is to be given—all the ma- terials in readiness tor ebvking are conveyed to the house where the entertxinment is to be given and there prepared. Usually, however, in the case of a supper, the viands are made ready.save possibly the two or three hot dishes, at the caterer’s, the other thiags being served cold.” ‘THE PALAZZO DI MORTONE. “Do you ever prepare and cook the entire spread at the house where it is to be served?” “Once in awhile, though few houses are equipped with kitchens and apparatus suftici- ently complete for that. There is only one honse in Washington where such a thing could be done comfortably for a banquet of consider- able size and elaborateness. I refer to the es- tubiisinent of President diorton, whose cuisine is like that of a hotel, Mrs, Morton never cmp!oysa caterer to serve anything in her house; she has acatering plant on her own premises, To begiu with, there are two chefs— one the head cook aud the other a pastry cook, who are able to manufacture cakes and creams as wellaswecan. There is attached to the kitchen department an enormous refrigerator, such as few caterers have, into the drawers of which are put the molded ices and all such things ag fast a@ they are done, to freeze. Also there are a number of women assistants for the ordi- nary work which docs not require culinary genius, ‘The range itself is 24 feet long, and everything else is on such a scale that it is no wonder that there isa feast at every meal in the great house on Scott circle. Necessarily, Mr, Morton's chief cook is a man of distin- guished reputation in his craft—an enthusiast in his profession, in fact—though, doubtless, he would not imitate a certain martyred French cordon bleu, who threw himself upon his sword because a royal guost at his master's house udded salt to Lis soup.” THINGS LOST AND BROKEN, “You provide silver and crockery, do you not: “Asarule, yes. We would lose in that way did we not chargesuch thicgs up in the bills. For the breakables are often smashed—I have known guests to get rid of — by throwing then under the table—and silver ons aud forks frequently disappear. I don't think that people steal them, it is more likely that they get emptied carelessly into the slops. An important item in our charges is always, in large affairs, for waiters. We don't keep wait- ers ourselves on salaries and rent them out; but we have a number on our books who do otber work in the daytime and who are very giad to obtain such employment as attending at parties. ‘They get for work of the sort $3 for a dinner or supper, and, if there is a reception afterward, at which they are expected to be on hand, they get #5. A funny thing we see some- times at the feasts we sapaly is the grabber. In every city, I suppose, there are certain per- sons who do that sort of thing. former Pp pe saeai was —— perigee a paper of large dimensions at every en- tertainment that she went to and fil it up with whatever was most delicate of the enterer's aaa pce. treat Sian disguise abou 80 usual: r- sous. who comiull such offenses, ‘The notion of ee weeny for nothing is too much for ma to resist.” _—-——ee0e——__—_ Sho )—“Why are looking so He (seriously)—“No; for the beam.” Thos the beamed. Igndwn to Written for Tax Evewrne Stan ESSENTIALS OF BEAUTY. Something About the Butid of Pretty ‘Women and Fashionable Men. WHAT ONE OUGHT To WEIGH IN PROPORTION TO MRIGHT—THE NECESSITY OF OUTDOOR RXER- CISE—HOW TO DEOCREAS# WEIGHT WITHOUT SEVERE DIETING. {Copyrighted 1890.) “If you only had ten pounds of flesh more about you what charming woman you would be!" “If you only weren't so like a feather Pillow stuffed into a corset you would be irre- sistible.” How many women have you to hear such criticism from lips licensed to pronounce it, of their nearest, most familiar friends. Trath telling isn’t always pleasant, but it is unmistakably wholesome and nicer to take than fisttery in the long run. It is like the bromides and stirring of the sea which keeps its waters fresh, while the undisturbed cisterns of our minds are overgrown by fungus of vanity and slime. My dear madam, when your friends try to persuade you that you look just as weil with 160 pounds inside your corsets they are simply guying you, no matter if they haif be- eve or try to believe what they suy. There are no friends so false ag those who love us too much to see us clearly or to tell us the truth. Emerson never said a keener thing than when he bade usto heed well the opinion of our enemies, for they are most likely to tell us the truth about ourselves, For myself the opinion of friends is always like a dubious bank bill, to be scrutinized on both sides and viewed with doubt till verified by some dry old cashier of understanding. TO RETAIN AFFECTION. So many women write to know how they shall regain the lapsing regard of their hus- bands that I begin to feel like a sort of feminine Oolah, whose office is to prevent divorces and reconcile estrangementa. The matter is in their own hands if they know it. To good qualities they must add outward attractiveness &nd that vivacity which increases attraction with each year of life. In the same house where this is written lives a lady ninety-three years old, whose French blood and gentle training in the best society of the city have left her active and charming at this advanced age, Her dark quick eyes, her expression, are still hu- morous and winning, her keen repartees have lost neither salt nor spice, and even her prosing is delicious, better than other people's wit sometimes. The pret- tiest thing is the attachment between her and a generous young fellow, an orphan since his seventh pear and a wanderer, who has fallen in love with the gentle old lady and hangsabout her and pays her @ hundred tender unconscious attentious, which she repays by looks of love, ardent, frank and mischievous enough to make any woman's face bewitching, She was not married till she was thirty-two; she has had ten children, lost five and her husband and met reverses, but true-hearted, quick and amiable, she is the eifin godmother of the household still, brimful of fun and affection. Curious, if one were to recommend a phiiter to win and keep almost any man’s regard, it would be those last three words, They com- prehend so much physical well-being, besides mental and moral gifts. And let me me here remind you that ‘Fortune does not give her favors; abo sells them.” WEIGBT AND PROPORTION. Just exactly what is physical well-being, in weight and proportion? The table for a man’s weight given bythe best authorities is this: An adult with stature of 5 feet 2 inches should weigh 126 pounds; 5 feet 3 inches, 133 pounds; increasing three pounds for each inch up to § feet 8 inches, which should weigh 155 pounds; 5 feet 10 inches should be 169 and 6 feet 178 pounds weight, which is full heavy enough for activity and looks. A woman should weigh at least 20 to 25 pounds less than @ man of the same height, at her best. For one thing, 4 man’s hard muscles and larger bone will weigh more, of the same apparent size. A woman's large lungs, which give fullness to the bust and elusticity of motion, will render her lighter than her seeming size. If there is one charm more than another which fixes the regard of men it is light, graceful motion, The physiological and phrenological books used to teach that the person, man or woman, who moved about like a pocket zephyr could not amount to as much as the h type with solid tread, but experience proves the danger of carrying theories too far, for there is physical quality which outdoes mere power in foot pounds. ‘The electric quality in man or woman outdoes size, and your light, airy creature, whom everybody holds light as her motion, will reach her aim and endure more than your solid, maneuvering, calculating woman, It is electricity against cast-iron pro- jectiles, EXCESS OF PLFSH. One-twentieth the woight should be fat in a mun, one-sixteenth in a woman. Thijs fat serves as a light, elastic packing for the organs, which it protects from outward pressure and tetains the heat of the body. Its use as a store of reserve strength is doubtful, as_the waste of strength carrying around superfluous tissue outdoes any possible gain. In contrast to this light weight are such cases as the woman who died at fifty-two with a thickness of tour inches of fat on her chest and eight on her abdomen; ber heart, which naturally should not be over eight ounces, weighing after death thirty-six ounces, Corpulence forbids active exercise and want of exercise increases corpulence; con- stipation follows, as the muscles of the bowels get flabby; the fieshy are more liable to colds and diarrhw@a from the congested state of the mucous membrane; they are more disposed to gout, rheumatism, chronie bronchitis and dia- betes and death by faintness from exhausted heart or stomach, They are liable to profuse sweating in the effort of the system to rid itself of undue matter, and this eee highly acid causes eruptions ‘of the face and painfil chafing. Fat is well called by a medical writer of note “a perversion of nutrition.” THE AIMS TO BE STUDIED in health, beauty and freshness are: First. To keep the blood ina natural, healthy condition, free of wastes and rich in red par- ticles, giving strength and color besides a sup- ply of nervous force. Becond, To improve the muscles in firm fiber and tone by sufficient exercise and diet, Third. To regulate the thuids of the system by free actioh of the skin and kidneys, Fourth. To prevent the deposit of fat by leaving out of the food any excess of articles which create it. Fifth. To allow a generous and even luxu- rious diet, which satisties the cravings of hunger and the cultivated tastes and nerves. OUTDOOR EXERCISE. How much exercise is enough? A physician who is quoted as good opinion says, “every healthy man ought to take exercise equal to walking nine miles ona level. A part of this is taken in one’s daily work. but, apart from this, outdoor exercise should be taken daily equal to a walk of five or six miles, Less than this is not compatible with robast health.” Women need little less strength or exercise than men, their part in navure cailing for more endurance, and according to this the reason of their infirm health and vanishing looks is not far toseek. They are reared for y se and the tomb, The secret of refined complexion is read in the following words: ‘Exercise causes increased action in the nerves and blood ves- sels, by which vitality is augmented and a greater supply of blood and nervous stimulus is sent to repair the waste taki place. The food necessary to sustain the s tem is taken up, and all that is not required is excreted by the different organs that act inde- pendently of the will, so that the balance is evenly kept and none is unnecessarily stored asfat. The muscle of the heart is strength- ened by enforced exercise and the waste of the syatem burnt off. The action of the skin is in- creased and by perspiration the effete matters in the system are gotrid off. ‘The vital capac- ity of she lungs is increased. Digestion be- comes more perfect and the nervous system is improved in nutrition and power. Kt is from faulty modes of life the waste that should be exercise or work be- excreted or consumed by comes stored as fat,” ~ AMOUNT OF FOOD, How much food should one eat to keep in the best condition? A healthy man of miadie size doing moderate work requires 434 oz. nitro- enous or meaty foods, 3 oz. of fat, 14 2 compas poten = the peciaan tiene, arnt a ds ealts, This is ot teen, pein S rene ehccgps — A 1 3 woman requires « tenth less tol hed etna, After forty the diet shouid be ought to be worked off without due fat. The Banting is liberal enough to suit any refined taste, and an ordinary family would inviting addi- tions to ite fare in the list of his dietary. 4 Goop pier. Breakfast allows one large cup of coffee, with a little milk sweetened with saccharine, three ounces of bread or dry toast, thinly buttered, or in place of butter four ounces of any light meat or fish. Lunch or dinner is soup, seven or eight ounces, roast or boiled mest or not y or oily, one vegetable, a small plate of non-faranaceous pudding, and six ounces of any cooked fruit sweetened with saccharine, with six ounces of light wine. As saccharine is many times sweeter than sugar and the —~ bread is no way inferior in taste to white read, there seems no particular hardship in adopting such fare. But the one thing insisted upon is active excercise daily in walking, rid- ing or playing games, rowing. &c. “iecrea- tion by circulating the blood more rapidly as- sists the consumption of fatty tiasue. increas the size of the muscles while absolutely reduc- ing weight.” As the rich growricher and the better classes indulge in more ease of living stoutness figures our society. Corpulence is the bs it the republic. Already leaders of political and social life, like Mr. Blaine and Gov. Ames of Massachusetts, set the example of mo. and wholesome eating to keep body an in repair. Gourmandizing and obesity or por! liness even are out of repute with the new so- ciety, which means to be at its best as long as itcan. It willsoon be as much a disgrace for @ woman to be stout as to have a pimpled com- plexion, and the effect of the careful living which brings, this about will be felt in every interest of the higher culture. Surmurr Dane. —— STE Te Written for Tar Evawrse Stan. ATTRACTIVE HOMES, How to Decorate Pianos to Secure Artistic Effects. MANY DEVICES RESORTED TO—INDIA SILK IN GRACEFUL FOLDS—EFFECTIVE WHITE SCARPS, BOTH FOR PROTECTION AND ORNAMENT—A CAPITAL USE FOR A GRANDMOTHER'S SHAWL. There is one piece of furniture that for bulk and ugliness will interfere seriously with any scheme for decoration. This is of course the piano, for, though melodious, it is not beauti- ful, and is always thing to be endured and not admired in an artistic apartment. Ispeak of course of the ordinary piana, with frame of rosewood or ebony. Cases can be made, and have been, for special places and people that quite alter one’s views of the appearance of this universal musical instrument. If one is blessed with a lively imagination a piano might be designed in thought which would be a fit- ting shrine for the entrancing music to be evoked from it. It is only millionaires and People of such financial comfort, however,who can carry out these charming little ideas of their own. The majority must take the piano in its usual dark and clumsy exterior, there- fore, aud be thankful to have it at all, PIANO DECORATIONS. To palliate ite lack of beauty, which every one is eager to do, many devices are resorted to and much variety of ornamentation is the result. For along time felt was in high favor a6 a material just suited to the needs of ful (?) piano oration, A straight, stiff las brequin or scarf was the style of shape selected and we all know the effect! Now a change has come and with improvement in other matters of household art the piano is also. quite trans- figured with our advanced ideas, The style of piano is an important thing in considering its adaptability to ornament. The upright is at the same time the most common and the most susceptible of good effects in decoration, The good result most easily achieved is by carelessly draping a length of India silk in graceful folds, with ends banging irregularly; that is, with one shorter than the other, for instance, This, however, from the faet of its bemg so easily done, is left to the uninventive mind to adopt, while something more original is sought after by many people. Tue painted and em- broidered scarfs of silk bolting cloth are ranged similarly to the India silk, but are less shoppy looking, as some individual taste must be displayed in both design and execution, The Japanese embroideries on crepe are es pecially effective as piano decorations, and with their soft colorings will tone in with almost any room, White is beginning to be used for piano drapery, and with some surroundings nothing could be prettier than this lack of color with the dark wood of the piano in striking contrast, With a white scarf the ornaments set on the piano may be of brilliant or even vivid colo: ing and the effect will be excellent. Take, for instance, A SCARF OF WHITE JAPANESE SILK CREPE, a charming fabric for any use it can be put to. The length should be 3% yards long, with s hem 3 inches wide, hemstitched at each end. Afew rather small flowers, conventionalized, or some pretty geometrical form, may be pow- dered over the ends for the depth of 18 inches, Along the front edge of the crepe a few of these flowers may also be scattered. The prettiest way to work this design would be with gold thread, using a single straud and working the flowers solid. Supposing the scat to be completed the best way of putting it on is to drape it with several irregular festoons, hold- ing these in place by ornaments heavy enough to make allsecure. A jar of bright yellow with white chrysanthemums in relief would be an effective piece of pottery for one thing. A bronze, a slender vase and a number of smaller articles can all be used to accent these folds and festoons. Groups of ornaments are affected by some artistic peeple, instead of scat- tering them abont singly. Avery good effect is often obtained in this way. The piano is a favorite spot to choose for the display of any bit of drapery that is especially unique or rare or beautiful. One sometimes sees a tall of em- broidery on a pinno which looks as if it might have been a part of the vestments of some riest, so rich in gold and colored silks is it, Travelers in foreign lands have opportu- nities of collecting such interesting scraps, which make most attractive decoratious in their homes. ANOTHER PRETTY WAY of adorning a piano is to have very deep lace in a full frill across the ends and front, while a smooth covering is over the top, to which this lace is attached. This last is an effective decora- tion when # large patterned lace is used and handsome ornaments are scattered over the top. Sconces of old silver or brass are a great addi- tion to the looks of a piano when the drapery is arranged so that they do not interfere. Piano lamps or umbrella lamps, as they are also called, are a great convenience when the piano is at & distance from a gas light. Square and grand pianos are much lest susceptible of decorution in the way of drapery than the upright A young lady made covering for her grand piano, however, which was excellent as a pro- tection, while it was not to be despised as an ornament. Dark olive tureoman was the material chosen, while the decoration consisted wholly of a fringe made by raveling the goods and braiding the strands into jen. As the turcoman oniy ravels one way to make a good fringe these ravelings were tied into the — on the other side, thus making ‘he FOR SQUARE PIANOS . straight scarfs wide enough to cover the top when closed and folding back when the piano is opened are as satisfactory asanything. These should be long enough to have the ends hang down far enough to show any decoration which may be applied to it. Turcoman is very good for such a scarf; as it needs no lining. If plush, velour or any single faced is ueda lining is necessary, otherwise the wrong side shows when the scarf is thrown back on open- used in the past on such decoration and finish as an; rg fringe which comes in beaati: with cords of irregular lengths, ending off in fluffy tassels. A \d piano which came to i ago Was most artisticaliy covered with a large crope shawl of Japanese workmanship. re api waa a rich red, while heavy embroidery in varied shades was all over ME SECOND SESSION OF FRIENDS SELECT "Tscoest bape Soto Peorusty 0 Borg address THOS W SIDWELL, Prinety al MUELLER S “woun-cHAIN svsTEM* Moc tanght by this incomparetig. a Rapid’ Interestine” Thoroushs LANMAS BCR i ‘One trial leswon free. 5. 1425 New York ave. ss AINTING, DRAWING IN CRAYON AND CHAR: P woni Taucht by Miss L CANFIELD. Classes om, Saturday for children Terms studi S21 11th st. nw. Cad foreircular. W AStINGTON CONSERVATORY OF wt Cigud Building, Gch apd F sta.—7 ano, Oran, Voter, Viol to, Ce sree advantages O'R BULLARD, Director E_ SCHEEL, TEACHER OF PIANO,ORGAN AND Ninsing st suht: rtic attention to bere. as those rs or ‘SIC, cuts "Bret ‘cher advance. 734 12h nw, tab method tancht, Ss, ma&ca-lm* "TUE SALLARD SCH F Taxes Childe b nt uve, bout ‘the usual Guliwes., platitudes aud TeeEricing., Calture of the Sramking Voice end o the Traginstive Faculties, Full Moral and Menti Songs aud Jiustrated Stones, Activity Developed by Js8- Lin ees FIFTEENTH 8T. 223 SSES KERN'S SCHOOL FOR S0CN@ LADINS AND LITTLE CHILDREN. SECOND TERM BEGINS FER 3. A31tofed fe. Instructors, Memsce, X. Brooke. 5 Jerome Uhl and ci A. Evening Drawing Cisssos un Mes al, me? Dans AND PAINTING—INSTRE Sy bila Parents, Teachers aud Artists, for De- % “7 A mye Ar a Decor istoric tet ira, TMU. GENE MK MORRELL has had 12anedale andatisbed 13 " in elas day or eveut alte in charcoal, Terms reasonable Pastel, water and oil golors, hs @> to 8.000. Btudios open daily au y evenings. “Call and see the wonderful pro- ress of studeuts. ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS Sud E al a-sw Mi Vocal, GUL aA ture, 1 spun] of A Lyman Whe Conserve: tory. 1106 Stil st mw VARD GKADUATE DESIRES PUPILS. iy OF tu Small Classes. Apply to MH. PUTNAM, AM, At Sanders & Stayman’s, 934 F st. B Ac apewy Or Actixa, 614 17th st. uw. near F at up one fight, Puplis way enter this muah Catalogue free. ) plsse anv iio Miss AMY C. LEAVITT Has Rewoved to 226 Masmchurctisave nw. fafIm CIVIL SERVIC EXAMINA TO: te information -« IA &. BALCH, ELPERIFNCED IN aching (he Pxclish Languare to Foreimnersoffers ices a8 Leacher to Members of the Pan- Aweri- Tessand to Foreigu gations. 1207 l0thaww BALCH ViL SERVICE INSTIIUT! 0th st. nw —Pupiis prepared for allex- s. cial Lessous for Buren, KIVALE TUITION AND PREPARATION FoR all Celleges in French, 4 Latin, Greek Simtel, ian, Portuyuesg Geriuan, by HENKI LARKOQUE, A.M, of Sorboune, Paris, France, Ket uw. jad-dan* paises ar Coma VATORY OF MUSIC, 913 PA. ave. iborough instructions, Primary and ad- Jaygrd.course of Piano, Ongan, Violin, te. kVWIN R HART, Principal, late of New Euglind Couserva- tory, Bosion, Masa, }RENCH LESSONS. mie. M Di teaci das- Laat ‘hos ‘MANN'S KINVENGARTEN AND; ayy SCHOOL jOUL, KINDERGARTEN NORMAL TRAINING CLASS 291% Sunderisnd place, south of Dupuat circle. baad BERLITZ SCHOOL OF LANGUAGES ‘723 14th wt. uw. Bho 42: TRIAL LESSONS FREES Send for circulars, Pranches tn New York, Bostou, Brooklyn, Chi Philadelphia, Lowsville, Paris (France), Berliu Dresden, Germany. weld |A COLLEGE OF COMMERCE, 600 * — Business course: Bookkeeping (Eaxtuan system, embracitig Theory, Business Practice aud Pauling), Penmanship, Corresoudeace, Arithinetic, Cum ord Lessons aud Commercial Law, Also courses 1, English. Accountancy, ‘lelexraply, Shorthand aud Typewriting, furniture, stesin aud other convenieyces, Send for circulars Cok. CHNER, AM, Ch, Prin, Third year ass Business Fducktor ia tiisclty. Fit- en years aimember uf the feculty of Eastinan Calleze, Joimt sutbor of the Eastman System of T ey which received the ouly Guid ‘Swarded tor ust: bese, Education at Ue Word's Fair beld iu Paria, 18. oc25-4ma Pag oT 407 Mass ave. Gfighinnd Terrace, 14th Street Circle. @21-6m. Mr_snd Mra. WM. D. CABELL, Principals. LOD's COMMEKCIAL SCHOOL, 407 E CAP. 8ST Thoroush, successful and prosperous, Indorsed by ihose in attendan: TIC Al nd ‘Expression. ‘The ati , sens clase oF Wrivate, Ca Coutalaing terme and ful information tree, “ ‘Miss BAUD D. BECKWILK, Bia, oc3L 719 Lath st ae, 1 > Every Arp. Oure Diplomas, Degrees,and I eachers’ Certiicatesawarded to eraduates. “Shorter courses privately or tu ciass, Forty-excut-page catalogue free. als” CADEMY OF THE BOLY CROSS. 31g MARE ‘ave., will reopen Mondey, September 2. Ttaffords every facility for scquiriug 8 thorough and finished gducation, No efforts are spared to advance the puytin music and art. ‘The au COMI Fines theory aud techiite aid euubraces harp, volita, guitar and banjo. JUSINESS COI Corner 7th and D sts, nw. of Business aud Counting House Traimiag, chool of Practical Fuelish. Sebevi of Shorthand and bebool of Tel and epost Behool of Mechanical and ut _ PIANOS AND ORGANS. UPERIOR, Viewse MUSIC, 2) ‘School tine. cy Pr and Architectural Drawing, sewmons, for illustrated catalogue free, See ee ep iy *eTy RAKAUER” PIANOS “ARE OF 8) Tone, Workmanship and Durabaiit call aud see them at KUHN'S TEMPLE OF 1209 Gast, Finest Tuning aud Keculsting, Leavers. We represent five of the Inrrost honses in the world, namely: Decker Bros., Weber, Fischer and Estey Pianos and Estey Organs. These famous instruments rauk as “leaders” everywhere. We sell on eusy monthly payments, reut Pianos and Organs with option,of purchase, and take old instruments in ex- change, allowing the full value therefor. Wealsobavea department for turing and repairing, and give careful Attention to auy work im this line entrusted to us, We have well-stocked ware rooms at 34 F street, this city; 1% North Charles street, Beltuuore, aud 1217 Main street, Richmond, Va. Buying on as larve a ecule as we do (being the largest Piano and Organ concern in the south) euables us to ecll to oUF customers at the Lowest possible prices aud ou the most favorable terms, De bot think of buyiug or renting s Pisno orsm Orgau before examining our splendid assortiment instruments and getty our terms. SANDERS & STAYMAN, ne 934 F street northwest, Srieer PR. Prize Medai Pare E: tudorse TANOS. -xposition. 200 firat premiume, rd by over 10 music scbouls aud colleges fuk duraidiity. Old Pianos taken ip e: . The ouly Uarast Unt can take the o3 421-3m Ek & CONLIPS, S14 Lithst ns ALLET & DAVIS UPRIGHT GRAND PIAN: elegant Holiday styles; superb toueb ; ew: marvellous ed THE Fhukeer t Choose now. A Chnsuuas present ew Artistic tye Sotaury ie thopegy low figuiea, : 2 se -- A an Gevelon, ROBERT a_a__—_—_—_ es eee MT tbaiont it fo