Evening Star Newspaper, June 1, 1889, Page 8

THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D. C., THE DRESS OF THE PERIO! A New Order of Things Made by the Upper Ten Thousand. & COMPLETE CHANGE IN BONNETS—rMPORTED DESTONS IN DRESSES FOR THE SEASON—TOILETS AT FOUR O'CLOCK TEAS—FABRICS# OF FINE WOOL —THE FASHIv NABLE DRESS FOR WHEELING. From Our Own Correspondent. New Yorx. May 80, 1889. Society takes a new departure during the last of the spring months, and is to be seen out of doors rather than in crowded rooms. As the season begins in London it ends in New York, and its leaders and lights give themselves up to daylight park parades up and down Sth ave- nue and on the “grand drive;” to preparations for the annual exodus to the country; to thea- ter parties on “closing nights:” to teas and luncheons given to friends about starting for Europe, and finally to assisting their departure with the requisite flourish. The “drive” in the park in the sweet o’ the year has become one of the sights of the town and is well worth a little a le to 1 and which make the crowd lining the way as interesting as the crowd in carriages and on horseback. but otherwise the “show” is a well worth seeing. and both exhibit the splendid re- sults, physically, of good living and a free, out- door MAGNIFICENT PHYSIQUES, The last twenty years has given usa larger number than were seen formerly of women with magnificent physiques of the Turkish order. women of ample proportions. rich de- velopment, lovely coloring, no muscle and not vity, who recline in their softly artiages and do actually live in an atmosphere which the winds of Heaven are not allowed to visit, except in their gentlest mood. They are usually the wives of very rich men, 7 ; only rich men ‘could afford and ea have assisted to nem the perfect specimens of beautiful flesh they are. For even beauty must be culti- vated and adorned to satisfy fastidious tastes. As for the adornment, Solomon could not have surpassed it and the lilies have no less to do with it. Somebody is paid to think for them, to dress them as well as to cook for them and keep their bodies up to this high-water mark of civilization. After all, it is not a little care to keep oneself, even if it is only one’s body, up to so high a standard. It is the first thing to be thought of in the morning. the last thing at night. It is an eternal round of rubbing and brushing and bathing and polishing and manipulation. The daily sirirg is as necessary for a woman as a horse, if she isto be kept in condition; and what a monotonous business it becomes. always to do it under the same circumstances, even though these be easy and pleasant. CARRIAGE DRESS, as it is technically termed, always has a certain conventional character, but it derives a pictur- esque charm nowadays from variety of color and the contrast of color with white. The mil- linery of the season, too, is very conspicuous, The bonnets are not large, but the floral dis- play is all the more attractive for its novelty, artificial flowers having been very little used of late years, and the revival wisely following the eld lines of adherence to nature, giving us charming sembiances of the loveliest things, ‘The new shapes, too, are a total reversion of the preceding order. The brims droop, fine knife-plaitings of lace overhang the edge like the roof of a thatched cottage. The point which turned upward projects out. and is mounted or surrounded with lace and grasses or drooping flowerets. The Marie Stuart head- dress appears in a transparent shape, with re- ceding sides turned up as wings, a flower or bow of ribbon filling up the space, or making an objective point which emphasizes a fine pro- file and the detic ‘acy of the lines of beauty from the temples to the throat in front of the ear. STYLES IN HATS. Large hats are not much affected by fashion- able women in conjunction with carriage cos- tume. There is a certain informality, and therefore incongruity about a large hat and a formal style of dress; and there are no women on the face of the earth more alive to “shades” and subtleties, correct forms and the differences appropriate to various circumstances and occa- sions than the traveled and cuitivated Ameri- can. Besides, the large hat renders the parasol to a certain extent superfluous, and the parasol is very important nowadays. The newest and finest revive the old real lace covers, upon silk the color of the dress; but there are others equally costly that are enriched with delicate embroidery or are specially made of rich India (Benares) ‘brocade, with turned bamboo or carved handles, with gold or silver rings or tops. PARASOLS. The “dropped” silver sticks or those which are encased in wrought silver are found too heavy, and are therefore not cultivated even by those who can afford them. delicate and charming parasols are of plaited lisse over silk of the same tone, if it is very light, as cucumber green, shell pink. cream and the like. Ivory white would be used over old rose, lavender, corn-color or ecru, and would correspond with the touches of white in the costume, the vest, the facings, the panels and the like. The material is silk or bengaline, and it is often enriched with the open-silk and tinsel embroidery, which made its appearance last year. but was then so extravagantly high that it found few purchasers, Nowit isreduced to about one-fourth, that is from $8 per yard to €2, which affords some idea as to the margin of profit for a “novelty.” This outlines the white silk or crepe vest and panels, covers the collar and sleeves at the wrists. If you see any- thing very striking. showy or “odd” on the drive, its wearer is pretty sure to be an actress or a foreigner, perhaps both; for American ac- tresses of the best class are usually very quiet in their out-of-door dress, STYLE OF SKIRTS, This conventionalism is far from character- izing the dress of the period as seen upon the crowded thoroughfares, among “steamer” parties, in the shops and upon informal excur- sions. “Men stand in groups to see the proces- sions go by, declaring them “better than the ¢ircus;” and certainly some extraordinary out- fits are to be seen. The directoire costume and vest front. wide revers and straight skirt hang- ing full at the back under the coat-shaped bodice is of course the predominant spring aud early summer style. But the beauty of the May month has brought an unusual number of thin silk and | satines, the fine qualities in which, particularly in the new white coral-like figurings on dark zed, green and gray-blue grounds, can hardly be distinguished from silk. These materials demand different treatment from the solid silks and wools. They are de- stroyed by being cut into the usnal stiff basque forms, yet they often become grotesque cari- eatures by a huge puffing and bunching of sleeves and an exaggeration of certain antique features, while the rest of the design is modern end conventional. This “ mixing up” is rarely seen in French designs, and this fact alone gives them a character superior to our own. IMPORTED DESIGNS, There isa peculiar delicacy, daintiness, and Simplicity about the best imported styles this Season, which is in marked contrast to the high colored, floriated. heterogeneous character of what is seen in our shops. Why we cannot have the best as well as the worst designs in simple materials at moderate prices is one of those problems that no one can find any answer to. The fact always remains that the simpler the form the higher the price. and the fewer there is of it. Ata recent morning reception given to a lady of some distinction from another city, and which terminated in a 4 o'clock tea, some charming toilets were seen which illustrate the point previously made, One was a costume in two shades of gray, with Dordered skirt, gathered bodice enclosing a co vest, and soft full sash fastened asa elt at the side with a rosette of the material, round bat trimmed with ivy and green berries, Another dress was striped in two shades of geblin blue. The skirt and vest were aecordian _—— the latter beld in B ns by straight races or bands which passed through loops at the waist and had exactly the effect of “sus- ders.” The jacket was loose and formed & tillion at the back with the usual wide Fevers fronts, aud coat sleeves mounted with cuff to match revers and braces, which were all 4m the lighter shade of the material. A lovely India silk was in a shade of gray, with delicate white stalky lines and flowerets covering the surface. This was made with erossed front and shirt-vest and ruffle of white China crepe. The bonnet was an inverted paucer o! ‘ge size,in plaited China crepe wy lace, with buttereups and daisies forsing The @rown and drooping upon the brim. FOR STYLISH TOUNG GrRLa. Stylish young girls are wearing the simplest forms of sailor blouse waists, straight skirts, tnd sailor hats. In the shops there is no choice between the blouse bodice, loose, shapeless and thered upon an elastic at the waist line, and fe elaborate bodice, tucked, shirred, smocked, and costing ten or twelve dollars, The English “man-o’-war” bodice is, however, different from either of these. It is sha) the belt, as well as the shoulders, and fitted into a belt, and which holds waist and ay One of the secrets of French fitti English tailor-made gowns is this, that they are always made upon a fitted foundation light and silky if not silk, but firm. The outside may be mounted upon this in any form, but the per- fectly cut and fitted foundation is always there, and the fullness, dray , and the hke, which form the outside, follow the lines, or take only such positions as the framework permits, or which it can be made to sustain, In this coun- try we £4 rid of lining as much as possible particularly in the summer, tly because o! the heat, partly because silk lining is out of the power of persons of limited means, and all others are warmer, heavier, and less agreeable. The round, full bodice in Paris is always made upon a fitted lining; here is often—and in gingham or satine, — iy os with- outany lining at ali, but it the a peculiar art to make it fit well without a lining, and therefore it very often does not “t with neatness or accuracy, average woman makes too little of form and too much of trimming. She overloads a bad cut and a strained. ill-fitting dress or garment with jetsand bows and buttons and passamenteries; she always has endsflying loose, or something dropped or out of gear, owing to imperfect workmanship. SUMMER MATERIALS. If we are to have a summer of dry heat, as anticipated, all cool materials will be in de- mand, and there should be a revival of what y8 favorites with a class of very refined women, and that is the pretty and serviceable linen lawns. These do not vary much in style i are always in delicate checks, upon white grounds, but they inty, easily made and easily fternoon dress for the coun- ve. They can be part of sum- mer stock for five years, and then made over for the children. Batistes are more talked about because they are French; but they are more flimsy, less useful and have to be made over silk and expensively, to be attracti ‘The shoulder scarf has been revived, but is not yet seen very numerously. Two ladies at- tracted attention recently by walking upon Broadway in short, gored gowns with straight waists, leg-of-mutton sleeves, large bonnets, drawn bags upon their arms and shoulder- scarfs dropping upon the back in the true old style. Every item of their costumes is seen commonly enough, upon all the women you meet, but only in incongruous little parts; it was putting them all together that made the ensembie 80 striking as to attract attention. IN LONDON the fashionable scarf is of black or white lace, very wide and long. It is worn full round the neck, widening outat the waist, so that the long ends nearly cover the front of the dress, or itis draped from the middle of the back across the shoulders and over the front of the bodice to the belt, which is put over it. This isa very different style of wenring the scarf from that adopted when it was a feature of a ledy’s dress about eighty years ago. Then it had no fixed position. It was a light and airy touch, dependent on the cultivated experience and natural gr: of the wearer for its tasteful effect. It hung; it floated; it was carried un- der or over the arm or shoulder and used for sentiment and coquetry. as the Spanish beauty uses the fan and mantilla, The severely prac- tical mode of using it now is the reason that it does not “take” better. We have no real use for ithere. Ladies who purchased wide and beautiful lace scarfs fora guinea or thirty shillings (English money) last year, have had them cut up into vests and gathered panels, because they could see no use for them here as independent garments. Now, however, they regret the loss, for the scarf seems likely to find its way and is already utilized for sash and shoulder draperies, while the great cost in lace renders them, of course, highly desi le, FABRICS AND GARMENTS OF WOOL, There is nothing more fresh and summery than the thin bordered or embroidered woolens and cottons, in soft shades of ecru, green, and gobelin blue, worn in conjunction with the bonnets or hats of open, fancy straw, lined with plaited lisse in some deeper shade or deli- cate contrasting color that appears in little touches in the embroidery. All the trimmin; needed is this lining and a small wreath o} flowers or grasses. The dress, a straight skirt, with bodice crossed, straight skirt pee | belt or sash of silk or ribbon, A princess coat is a useful garment for cool regions. Itis of gray, terra-cotta, or gobelin blue wool, lined with thin silk. It is open in front and curved in like a vest to show the light or white dress front. It closes at the waist with a broad band or strap, opening from the waist line to the foot in front, at the back, and also on the sides. A weight should be placed at the lower corners to prevent them from flying back. It may be made in a solid material without lining, such as mohair or even pongee. But pongee has little warmth, and it is better that the stuff should have acer- tain stiffuess if it is not lined. ‘The blouse and plaited waists, which are so fashionably worn by girls, afford them an ad- mirable opportunity for exercising or acquir- ing amateur dressmaking skill. No better chance will come to them to ease their lives of the burden of dressmakers’ bills than practic- ing on the straight skirts, the simple gathered waists and,blouse bodices of the season—and several scasons—so many, indeed, that it is plain these pleasant, practical styles have come Example, in this case, is worth, as in others, much precept. One clever, patient, in- dustrious girl does more to stimulate these qualities in other girls than columns of words, A NOVELTY IN BONNETS, which isan English invention, is called the “collapsible.” It can be folded flat and used asafan, It isa “guinea” bonnet in England (#5) made of silk and ribbon, and should cer- tainly be a boon for traveling. for it is said to be as stylish as it is light, and universally be- coming. The season that is coming will prob- ably be one of the gayest on record, notwith- standing the exodus to the Paris exposition, This event doubtless takes a great crowd to the other side of the water, but on the other hand, it is a sufficient reason with many who are fre- quent visitors abroad, to stay at home, WHEELING, Tricycling and outdoor sports are now so largely cultivated by women, that fashion is obliged to take them into account. Indeed, the fashion of them came from England with the tailor-made dress, The best dress for tri- eyeling—and this is in reply to several inquiries upon the subject—consists of an accordion plaitea skirt, short walking length, Blain, loose ‘ousers of the same material instead of under- skirt, Norfolk or blouse bodice and belt fastened with buckle. The shoes should be the same that men wear, undressed leather, laced up the front, and the hat a light cloth with extended tip and muslin cape at the back, removable, are always neat, | When not needed by the hot sun of a country * gowns and even anticipated | road. A soft silk handkerchief may be knotted around the throat. Waah-leather gloves, Nothing hanging, nothing superfluous, Jexxy Jung. —_——_-9¢—______ Protection from Clothes Moths. From Good Housekeeping, During the latter part of May or early in June a vigorous campaign should be entered upon. All carpets, clothes, cloth-covered fur- niture, furs, and rugs should be thoroughly shaken and aired, and, if possible, exposed to the sunlight as long as practicable. If the house is badly infested, or if any particular article is supposed to be badly infested, a free use of benzine will be advisable. All floor cracks and dark closets should be sprayed with this sub- stance. Too much pains cannot be taken to de- stroy ot and every egg and every newly-hate! larva, for immunity for the rest of the year depends largely—almost entirely— upon the thoroughness with which the work of extermination is carried on at this time. The benzine spray will kill the insect inevety stage, and it is one of the few substances which will destroy the egg. I would. however, repeat the caution as to its inflammability. ‘No light should be brought intoa room in which it has been used until after a thorough airing and until the odor is almost dissipated. The proper packing away of furs and winter clothing through the summer is a@ serious mat- ter. A great deal of unnece: expenditure in the way of cedar chests nad coker wardrobes aud various compounds in the way of powders has been urged by writers on these pests, But experience fully proves that after a thorough lay or June, garments may be heh ep in pa safely put away for the rest of the season with wo other protection than wrapping thein aleeely Paper. An excellent plan is to buy for a small sum paste-board boxes in from a tailor a number of which they deliver suits, and carefully fold and ming a of pack away all clothes, onnk paper around the 80 as to leave no crack. These = 4 life-time with careful use. Oth same es gael ordinary flour or linen w-cases, which ee well. “tn success of these means depends entirely on the F the thness of the liminary work. Cam- hi yeah hi ‘ phor, ware naphihaline, and otke: (ore of tists svat out the preceations urged Cause and Effect. From the Epoch. “What's the mattet?” the schoolmistress asked. “Back’s sore, Ma’atm,” “What made it and of | Written for Taz Evewre Stan. FARM AND GARDEN. How to Cultivate Trailing Arbutus— Pruning Grape Vines. It is very seldom that the trailing arbutus is found cultivated, and many are of the opinion that it is difficult to transplant and grow in the garden. But this is entirely wrong. The arbutus can be cultivated much easier than many other plants that we have in our gardens, which are not half as sweet and pretty. This is the time of the year to transplant it—just after the flowering is over. Ifthe roots are seri- ously disturbed the delicate plants will not live, and great care should be taken to lift them up from their earthy bed without breaking or mutilating many of the tiny rootlets, A trowel or spade should be run down into the earth all around the plant, and a ball of earth taken up with the roots. The strong, sturdy- looking plants should be selocted, nd not those which have wasted all of their strength in flowering, the spindling stems of which will not bear any kind of disturbance. A shady place should be se- lected for the new plants, and plenty of water oa them. The trailing arbutus is prized as =e any flower in the spring of the ‘ear, and every season it is becoming rarer, ‘om present indications this wild beauty will in time be lost to us, for many of its favorite resorts in Pennsylvania and New Jersey are be- ing invaded by towns and villages, or by the ruthless gatherers, The plants are often torn up by the roots by those who gather them for the markets, and ‘their number thus materially decreases from year to year. To save it from complete extermination it would be wise and profitable if the arbutus was cultivated more generally in our gardens, especially in rook- eries, shaded by trees, or at the foot of small hillocks facing north. In such places it would flourish and dower beautifully. J. D. Morrow. PRUNING GRAPE VINES. Many prune their grape vines in the spring of the year, but I advise the practice of fall pruning over tnat of spring. The weather is more propitious in the fall than in the spring for this work, and it is often until very late in the season before any outdoor work can be done. The cutting winds of March are usually far more severe than the temperature of No- vember. The condition of the ground also forms another objection to spring pruning. In the fall the ground is hard and firm, and as ‘ape vines are often a part of the’ garden ruitage, itis more desirable to stand upon a dry, firm soil while pruning than upona wet one, as is often the case in spring. Besides be- ing a better time of the year for the pruner to do his work, I have found that my vines have done better the next season after fall pruning, and have borne more grapes than when pruned in the spring. This fact is worth more than a hundred theories and opinions, for after all it is the practical experience in such work that is of real value to the farmer and horticulturist. Science has done much toward showing us the direction in which to move with our experiments, but beyond that she cannot go. We must make the practical experiments ourselves, and find out sometimes by costly labor what is the best way. In my own exper- ience I have had sufficient evidence that fall pruning is preferable to spring, but even if there was no difference, so far a’ the vines are concerned, I should prefer doing the work in the fall. C. 8. WaLTers. BLIND IN HORSES, Neglect and carelessness make more blind horses than any other two things, and many a valuable horse has been irretrievably injured by the owner or his servant. The blinds or blinkers on the bridle frequently induce blind- ness, or cause serious injuries to the eyes. If not properly adjusted they aggravate the horse. and in time cause serious trouble. Some advocate the use of open bridles, but if proper blinkers are used, and used as they oug&it to be. there is no danger of eye trouble being cause by them, Damp, dark stables are other causes of defective eye sight in our animal friends, which very few ever think about. When snow is on the ground in the winter many horses have a serious shock given to their eyes if they are taken from the dark stables right out into the open light. A severe pain will shoot into both eyes until the animal gets accustomed to the light, and if this practice is persisted in the horse's eyesight will become seriously impaired, Dampness also affects the eyes, and stables should be guarded against this, Plenty of light, and fresh, pure air should be allowed to come into the stables at all hours of the day, and the general health of the animal, as well as his eyes, will be kept good. D. Arxinsox, M. D, gees INSTANCES OF GALL. A Restaurateur ‘Tells Some of His Ex- periences, From the Nebraska State Journal. A restaurant man of Lincoln was looking gloomy yesterday as he gazed from the window at the dusty landscape, Being surrounded by a representative of the lever which moves the world he commenced to unbosom himself. “There came in here this morning,” he said, “a stranger of distinguished appearance. He was haughty in his bearing; yes, very haughty. The days of the yearsof my journey in the land have been many, but I don’t think I ever struck a more commanding-looking man. He took a seat at a table and glanced over the bill-of-fare very critically, Finally he ordered a porter- house steak. with innumerable vegetables, He Thad any new cucumbers. I hadn't y. ‘Well,’ said this haughty gentleman, ‘send out and get some. And tell your infernal waiter that I don’t want to become @ centenarian be- fore the meal is brought me.’ I was deep!: impressed by his imperious manner, an t rustled around and hurried the cook, and in a very short time the meal was placed before him, and it was a nice one, He seemed to enjoy it. He ate slowly, sipped three cups of coffee, and repeated several of his vegetable orders. Finally he concluded the repast and came to the cashier's desk, where I was on duty. He picked his teeth caimly, and then said: ‘Iam ready.’ ‘Ready for what? I inquired, ‘Ready tobe fired. I haven't a red cent.’ Now. how was that for unlaundered, double and twist, fast-dyed gall? How does it strike you asa sample of nerve with a wire edge and brass tip? I was too paralyzed to fire him. I just invited him to go, and told him that if he ever came to my fashionable rendea- vous again I would sweeten his coffee with sulphuric acid. He smiled blandly and went his tortuons way.” And the proprietor of the hash emporium sighed wearily, “Ican recall another instance of gall,” he said, aftera while. ‘When I was a boy I worked in a butcher shop, flashing out sausage and stuff to intelligent patrons, e urbane buteher had an old hound which had outlived ite usefulness, but for which he wouldn’t have taken 21,000, The dog used to lie on the side- walk in front of the shop from morning to night, and, as Serrety knew him, he re- ceived many a caress. Well, one day I was in the shop alone, when a genteel and \dsome stranger entered. ‘My boy,’ he said, in the most pleasant manner in the world, ‘would you be as good as to lend me a eleaver fora moment?” Flattered by his politeness to me, Iimmediately handed him the toy asked for. He went out of the mat and I heard a dull, sickening thud. He returnedin a minute or two, carrying the cleaver, which was dripping with gore, ‘Now, my little man,’ said he, as pleasantly as ever, ‘tell Your master when he gets another dog he should keep it where peo- ple won't stumble over it.’ This pleasant rss had hacked the poor old dog's head off. @ proceeding, I think, was as cool as the arctic regions. I don't see how such men = ale aoe lungs, or abies wih should 0 ey carry around would occu; all the ctinks space.” <4 The restaurant man, filled with dismay at his own experiences with human nerve, had prob- ably never heard of a Col. Mason, of Kent lucky or Virginia, who eu. Washington restau- it years ago and or: meal, It was not ught Ng Oe gates f and he shot dead the waiter who had attended him. There was a great deal of excitement and confusion, but the colonel sat there calm and ern and never ing at his victim, summot the head- waiter, to whom he said: ‘Send me another waiter, and be damned quick!” Talking of nerve! i ‘Written for Tua Evewrve Stan. Longings. Coase, restless spirit! Forever tossed arotind ee oe @angetul sea whose haven is not © . . . . oni shore! ing bess e's The ste, with all its changes, is calm beside thy roar! Break! Ob, storm-dashed waves! Tempestuots thoughts surge on! ‘The night ie wild and dreary, but hope comes with the mora. c _—— +60 says “Girls in feeble health futon, Sortie te tate ae ae oa oo Na a Lf HOME MATTERS. SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS FOR PRACTICAL HOUSE- KEEPERS—WELL-TESTED RECIPES WORTH KEEP- ING AND TRYING—USEFUL HINTS FOR THE DINING-ROOM, PANTRY AND KITCREX. Oxe Quart or Sirrep Frovr (well heaped) one pound, Cotp Tea ts THe Best thing with which to clean grained wood. Never use ammonia for this work. To Have Poacnen Ecos look very nice, cook each egg in a muffin-ring placed in the bottom of boiling water. Waex Maxrxo Frostixc in warm weather, set the whites of the eggson ice for a short time before using. Canpets SHotLp Br Trokoventr Beaten on the wrong side first, and then on the right side, 80 as to leave it fresh. Ir 1s Sarp Taat the repeated application of oil of cinnamon will cause those ugly excres- cences—warts—to disappear. Ir tae Eaos you Have to Use for frosting are not quite as fresh as you could desire, a Pinch of salt will make them beat stiffer. Strona Murtatic Actp applied with a cloth and the spot washed lecyaeayina f with water; is recommended to remove it stains from boards. Waex Ustxa the Orprnany O1p-Fasntoxep Warre-Wasx of slacked lime add a small quan- tity of liquid bluing. It will give it a pearly white tint. A Breap anp Water Povrtice is made by dipping a piece of bread, after the crust has been removed, into warm water, lift it out at once, and apply hot. VaniLLa Powper has been placed upon the market, and is claimed to be an_ improvement over vanilla extract. It is said to be more ecomical, and that it produc finer flavor. CREAMED Sweetsreaps Wit MusHrooms may be served in little paper cases in the place of sweetbreads and peas, and another course Aa he consisting of chicken croquettes and peas, Musrarp ror Meat 1s Goop prepared like this: The yelk of one egg, well beaten, one-half teaspoon salt, one teaspoon butter, one table- Spoon mustard, and enough vinegar to make it the proper consistency. A Wasn Mane py AppINo to twelve ounces of elder-flower water six ounces of common soda and six drams of powdered borax, is excellent for removing sunburn; applied to the skin it will make it clear and wort Iris Not Atways Easy to start a fruit-jar cover. Instead of wrenching your hands and bringing on blisters, simply invert the jar and place the top in hot water for a minute, Then try it and you will find it turns quite easily. Tr 1s Orrex a Question what to do with either the whites or yelks of eggs which are sometimes left after making cake, frosting, &c. Either will keep foraday or two if set ina very cool Biases the yelks well beaten and the whites unbeaten, For tux Tomato Omexer prepare a plain omelet, and just before turning one-half over the other place in the center three tablespoon- fuls of nicely-seasoned stewed tomatoes; then, when the omelet is turned out in the center of the platter, pour around a nicely-made tomato sauce, Berxsume Cooxres.—One cupful of molasses, a teaspoonful of soda; dissolve in a half cupful of cold water a dessertspoonful of salt; a table- spoonful of melted butter, one dessertspoonful of ginger, flour enough to roll out to the thick- ness of an inch; bake in a quick oven for about ten minutes, ‘Tue Waite or ax Eao 18 Broxex into a large tumbler, beat to a stiff foam, then add the yelk and beat more. When all of a foam, sweeten with two teaspoonfuls of sugar and add, if liked, either one teaspoonful of sherry wine or two or three of rich milk. This delicate yel- low foam, eaten uncooked with a cracker, makes a healthy lunch between meals under almost any state of weakness, Eaas ane Vatvasie Remepres for burns, and may be used in the following ways: The white of the egg simply used as a varnish to exclude the air; or, the white beaten up for a long time with a tablespoonful of fresh lard till a little water separates; or, an excellent remedy is a mixture of the’ yeik of egg with glycerine, equal parts; put ina bottle and cork tightly; shake before using; will keep for some time in a cool place. Bisqve.—The word bisque was originally ap- plied to soup made from shellfish only, in fact, it was only made fromcrawfish, but now, all shellfish soups that have a creamy consistency are called bisque soups. The same word, if a [ee to meat soups, would mean a soup made om a variety of meats; a mutton bisque, for instance, should be made from mutton and veal, or chicken, or from mutton and beef, or mutton, beef and chicken. The word is applied to ice-cream in the same way, meaning a mix- ing of flavorings. To Puriry a Roowt set a pitcher of water in the apartment, and in a few hours it will have absorbed nearly all the respired gases in the room, the air of which will have become purer, but the water utterly filthy. The colder the water the greater the capacity to contain these gases. At the ordinary temperature a pail of water will absorb a pint of carbonic acid gas and sev- eral pints of ammonia. The capacity is nearly donbled by reducing the water to the tempera- ture of ice. Hence the water kept in a room for a while is unfit to use, Maxrxe Scrap-Boors.—Good glue is best fot picture scrap-books, as it is not so apt to warp the page or to “‘soak” the paper. For reading scraps book-binder’s paste, or any good cooked paste, is better than mucilage. Spread the ite thinly and evenly, on the scrap, not on he leaf, and while it is damp lay on an extra sheet of paper (fs piece of newspaper) over the age and iron it with a pretty hot flat-iron till t is dry. When nearly dry, the flat-iron may be applied directly to the page, taking care ways to look out for the paper or flat-iron stick- ing to the page. By this means the page is kept smooth, otherwise it will dry in wrinkles. When glue is used no ironing is needed, but a little more care is required in applyini it. BRAIN. POWER OF PLANTS. There is Every Evidence of Directing Power in Some Vegetation. From the National Review. The manner in which the mimosa closes its stalks and leaves at the approach of darkness is very interesting. As the gloaming gently falls the leaves move upward toward each other till they touch; the secondary leaf stalks slowly droop till they are nearly parallel with the main leaf stalks, which in their turn fall till they point to the ground. Thus it folds itself at the close of day, and there is no doubt, if it were not allowed to sleep it would, like our- selves, soon die. This is not only an example of the necessity of sleep for the repairing of nervous energy and recuperation of brain power, but a proof of the existence of the same in the vegetable kingdom, Then there are the carnivorous plants, the Venus fly-trap (Deonea), for instance, which will digest raw beef as readily as its insect prey. From glands, with which its leaf is pro- vided, fluids are d out which resemble the gastric juice of the animal stomach in its digestive properties, The matter of the insect body or meat is thus absorbed into the eub- stance and tissues of the plant, = ‘as the food taken into the animal stomach peeare ot ee eee areas ie the nat brain we therefore, ion can only be commenced by the = Sete Coe id means of @ nerve, upon nds; may, concede, that’ it is the’ action “of the — plant that luces the re to say that the tip of the , endowed as it is with such diverse kinds of sensitiveness, acts like the brain of The brain, be- ing seated within the extreme end of the body, reeeiving impressions from the sense and directing tho several movements.” not quite agree with but I believe it to be ‘eno! example of that power which is cause of all plant movement, the commencement of '§ life we find, in the case of the pea or for example : e eanseriftease Wataenriee is Ps # . d other to ascend? Tete oned 80 that the radicle comes out at the result is the same, for the radicle imme- diately turns round and grows down eee foros or is iS 2 i i f that is the existence brain power It At Once.—Dumly (to Chased for Miee Sickert arnt naka Heng, AA, st, ir FLOWERS AS EMBLEMS. Lore, Historical and Romantic, Regard- ing the Various Floral Badges. ‘From the London Standard. Primrose day bids fair to be celebrated this Year with all its wonted enthusiasm. The prim- ula cult is safe to maintain much of its present Popularity, even should the whirligig of time raise up a party leader whose fame will eclipse that of Lord Beaconsfield. This has not always been the fate of symbol- ical flowers, “A good symbol,” it was the opin- ion of Emerson, ‘is the best argument, and is & missionary to persuade thousands, There is no more welcome gift to men than a new sym- bol.” This may possibly account for the rise, Popularity, and persistence of floral symbols. Yet it seems difficult to explain why Wales should have chosen the leek for its cognizance, though the Cymric poets have a good deal to say about the broom. The Scottish thistle is more to the point. Yet the northern botanists are by no means at one in assigning that heraldic plant to any known species, or even in agreeing that it is acarduus at all. The plant with which Holyrood is decked on festive days is usually the cotton thistle, which is certainly nota wild plant in North Britain, The rose has, of course, a romantic tale to explain its choice as the emblem of old England, though, like the majority of such tales, this legend may belong to the myths of the post hoc proctor hoc order, THE FLEUR-DE-LI8 OF FRANCE is still less easy of explanation, For, though it is conventionally regarded asa lily, the heral- dic painters have so effectually disguised it thatit is now a mere matter of choice to say what it is, Asearly asthe year 1611 Givillim (rho was in those days considered a cunning inder out of hidden things) regarded the de- vice on the Bourbon flag as ‘three toads,” and it isaflirmed that it was in allusion to these supposed symbols of their country that the popular nickname of ‘Jean Crapauds” was be- stowed on the French people. Still more re- worey Hates to certain ornaments resembling bees having been found in the tomb of Chil- deric, father of Clovis, it has been thought that perhaps these insects, and not lilies or toads, are represented on the white flag. It would certainly be difficulty for any one | toexplain why Florence adopted the “giglio Saxony the mig- nonett, or Ireland the shamrock, unless, in- deed, we are to accept, without question, the blanco,” Prussia the lime, legand of St, Patrick and his demonstr through it of the mystery of the Trinity. is it much easier for any one who is critical anent popular myths to account for the white lily being the badge of the Ghibellines, and the red of the Guelphs, any more than it is explic- able while the Yorkists took the white rose and the Lancastrians the red, or why the heartsease was the emblem of the ‘-violet crowned” city of Athens, Again, why was Apollo supposed to love the laurel and the cornel cherry; Pluto, the cypress and the maiden hair—a moisture- loving fern, which we may take for granted could not be very plentiful in his chosen realm —Luna, the dittany; Ceres, the daffodil; Jupi- ter, the oak; Minerva, the olive; Bacchus, the vine, and Venus the myrtle shade SAINTLY EMBLEMS. Why, again, is the Canterbury-bell the flower of St. Augustine? Why is the crocus the emblem of St. Valentine—unless it hap- pens to appear about his festival time—the cardamine of the Virgin Mary, or the St. Jobn’s wort of the Beloved Apostle? Mr. Gomme may perhaps hint at these flowers hav- ing been “totems,” and possibly the flowers were actually favorites with those whose cog- nizances they became after their death, or were borne on their shields as heraldic em- blems during life. But still, the endless floral badges of the Highland clans are left in the regions of airy myth, like the betony which was apportioned to St. Ffraed as a symbol of the double share of grace with which he was endowed. or the lily of St. Thomas A’Beckett, or the convallaria, which, according to a hagiological myth, sprang up from the blood of the < fon which St. Leonard slew in a wood standing on the site now occupied by the suburb of Hastings bearing his name, FLOWERS ASSIGNED TO OTHER INDIVIDUALS. It is scarcely leas puzzling to give a reason- able explanation of why certain flowers are assigned to, or have been appropriated by, certain individuals, The Napoleonic violet is a case in point. The modest plant which once made all Paris fragrant on the Bonapartist fete day, was never an object of concern to the “Little Corporal,” and only very credulous eople now swallow the romantic legend of his Ping his adherents, when banished to Elba, that he would “come back with the violets.” This story was an invention of after times. Nor has any one, to our knowledge, gone into the origin of the scarlet carnation ‘as the chosen flower of the Stuarts. Jacobitism—the Jacob- itism of the pretender and of the gallant gen- tlemen who mounted the white cockade, and lost their heads for their pains—is now a van- ished faith. Yet to this day mysterious hands yearly deposit wreaths of ‘carnations on the tombs of Cardinal York and other members of the hapless line of James II. LATER FLORAL EMBLEMS are less difficult to explain. In truth, except for the problem which individual tastes must always remain, there is no great puzzle in the matter. The old Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany, who, in spite of his military reputation and gen- erall drill-sergeantry, was wonderfully suffused with the Teutonic sentimentality which per- vaded Germany in his boyhood. was fond of the cornflower, and wherever he went, in his later days at least, the whole country side blos- somed forth in blue in his honor. e old em- peror’s devotion to the memory of his mother amounted to a “cult.” and one of his earliest recollections of her was that when she and her boys were fugitives from Berlin on the occa- ston of one of Napoleon's invasions, she rested fora moment by a cornfield, and amused them by plucking the blue cornflowers and making em wreaths and nosegays, The present Kaiser is said to affect the vio- let, a fancy which may clash with that of the Bonapartists, should the adherents of the “democratic empire” again come to the front in France. A flower was, of course, necessary to the Boulangists, and, with characteristic in- stinct for effect, the partisans of the ‘national nd honest republic” have chosen the carna- tion. Nevertheless, the origin of the symbol does not matter, except from a historical point of view. The mysteries of thisform of heraldry are generally beyond finding out, and not in- frequently are better left unexploded, if the re- sult of antiquarian search is as depressing as that which affirms that the word shamrock is derived from the Arabic shamrookh, a club or shellelah, and that this weapon is, in truth, the true badge of the Hibernian race, see THE PRINCESS OF WALES. Two Hours to Dress—Her Daughter Soon to ‘“‘Come Out.” From the London Star, It takes the Princess of Wales two hours to dress everyday. Despite her increase in years, there are courtiers who declare that she looks handsomer than when she first arrived in England, and they take as the reason the fact that the style of dress suits her so much better than what is now considered the dowdy dress of a quarter of a century ago. Nobody knows where the Princess gets her gowns from, It is generally supposed that her maid makes them from patterns supplied. However, the Princess cannot pose as @ leader of fashion except to women of acertain age. For instance, she cannot wear the gaudy flower-crowned hats that are So into season this prune sna yet these hats wi be will be what is known as “fashionable” nevertheless, Who makes those pretty fringes? Bome say that her barber shifts his 1 ings every week. Others declare this hairdresser supplies the material, and that a maid makes tracked this hairdresser to so-called society milli- hers’ in Bond marked at three ot four epee But = ae tis the as of SS eeaenamaimmen ieee SATURDAY, JUNE 1, 1889—TWELVE PAGES. THE WOMAN QUESTION. A Common Error to Assume that Women are Like Men. From the Boston Transcript. The woman question has long since, at least with the saving remnant who think about the essential philosophy of things, developed out of and beyond the phase of glittering generali- ties and superficialities. People now begin to consider that the matter isto be thought of. not from the man’s standpoint, as it used to be thought of altogether, nor from the woman's standpoint, as a great many have since insisted that it must be thought of, but from the stand- point of men and women. The mistake which conservatives used to make when the agitation for “women’s rights” first began, of assuming that women were so utterly unlike men, and so much inferior to them that they weren't to be considered on the same plane at all, was the greatest mistake which could be made about women, except the mis- take of assuming that they are hke men. This latter is an error which is very common nowa- days, According to that very interesting and valuable book, Mr. Brownell’s “French Traits,” itisa sort of mistake which most Americans are making. Even at the very moment that they are insisting upon the essential unlikeness of women to men, American society is exacting from women a continual exhibition of mascu- line qualities. We require of women, not “strong-mindedness,” but a certain compan- ionableness which is essentially masculine. and We cultivate in young girls this quality, to the cost of their essentially feminine character- istics, Says an unnamed French oracle to Mr. Brownell: “French women are essentially less masculine in avoiding strictly ali competition with men, in conserving all their individuality of sex and following their own bent. Nothing is more common than to hear American women lament their lack of opportunity; envy the opportunity of men, Nothing rarer with ua, It never occurs to a French woman to regret her sex. It is probable that almost every American woman with any pretension to fine mentality feels, on the contrary, that her sex is a limitation, and wishes, with that varying ardor and inter- mittent energy which characterize her, that she were a man and had a man’s opportunity. In a thousand ways she is the man’s rival, which with us she never is. WHEN AN AMERICAN WOMAN 18 MARRIED, this same French authority insists, her fellow countrymen will not permit her to be a married woman, They insist upon her remain- ing a married young girl as long as she can, In France woman frankly accepts her femininity which does not mean girlishness, but femini maturity. With us, the state of girlhood is the summit of womanly attainment. An American woman looks back to her girlhood and seeks to carry as much of it into her after life as she can; whereas in France the young girl is con- stantly looking forward to becoming and en- joying the condition of awoman. The result is that the sentimental side which Americans subordinate in women to the serious side, or else to the mascu- line-like quality of comradeship, receives, in France, an harmonious aud natural develop- ment. The French woman does not go in for “criticism of life,” as the American women do, and on the whole she is happier and freer, She hasa freedom, with her frank acceptance of her sex—and not necessarily a mischievous freedom—which even woman suffrage probably would not bring to American women. Mr. Brownell quotes a remark by Gouverneur Morris in his Paris diary in 1789: -“This is the woman's country.” Jules Lemaitre said the other day that if he could be just what he chose to be he would be first of alla beautifal woman. Mr. Brownell thinks, and no doubt truly, that only a Frenchman would agree with him, Ex- ceedingly few American men, with all their worship of the young girl, would care to be a woman, even a beautiful one. ____ AUCTION SALE % FUTURE DAYs. _ DOWLING, Auctioneer, ELEGANT MILINERY GOODS AT AUCTION, EMBRACING IN PAKT TRIMMED AND UNTRIMMED BONNETS AND IMPORTED AND DOMESTIC. FLOW- RIBBONS, JET TRIMMI FOR BON- i el ‘This stock the above koods. Brandis, who is giving up this branch but will’continue to serve the public in the ing line at ber old stand. Goods on exibition d prior to male. Minydi-ats’ ‘THOMAS DOWT r A VALUABLE THREE- ELLING HOUSE (3 NIA AVENUE records of the District of Columbia, quest of the holder of the note thereby séeured, we will sell at public auction, on THURSDAY, THE TWENTY- THIRD DAY OF MAY, A. D. 1580, at FIVE O'CLOCK P.M. to th hat piece of land sit tou city, D.C. and being lot num. ‘ht (38) of Abram F. Barker's recorded subdivision of part of square three bund: hree(:I83), the said land being a corner lot, y 4 three-story brick dwelling house with improvements. ‘Terms of sale: Que-balf of the gash within ten days trom the balance in two equal p secured by of trust on terest at six A deposit of ®1 is sold. Ail conveyancing ‘Terms ‘of sale to be compl from the day o Hight to rewell efaulting purc gyi Eurchase _mones ay of sale, and th ne and two ye nd @ first operty the purchaser's cost at ied with within ten da », otherwise the trustees reserve the roperty at the risk aud cost of the ‘VESTER B. BOARMAN,) WILLIAM W. BUAKMAN, Trustees, my] 1-d&ds 18 POSTPONED UNTIL ‘H, 1889, SAME HOU *SVLVESTER B. BOARMAN, } GEORGE W. STICKN uctioneer, ‘Trustees. WILLIAM W. BOARMAN, "5 my31-d&ds ABLE IMPROVED . 320, AND 331 PENN- E SOUTHEAST 3 4 By virtue of adecree of the Supr District of Col . cause number 11302, Lucy FM. vs. Martha M. McKkent we Court of the nia, gUariial, et al -the undersigned, as trustee, will offer for sale in front of the premises. on THURSDAY, TH H DAY OF JUNE, AD. Isso, at FIVE O'CLOCK P. M., all ora part’ ot the following-described real estate 5 of the subdivision of original Lot 1 and part of original Lot 2,in square number City of Washington and District of Columbia, ing more than ,700 square feet. bas Lot iw on Pennsylvania avenue of 43 79-100 fect aud a average depth of about 1 to C street, on which street it also has a front of 47 06-100 fer Terms ot sale: Que-third cash aud the residue in one and two years in equal installments, evidenced by the promissory notes of the purchaser, bearing date y of sale, with interest at six pe d secured! perty in the discretion of the trustee, or, if the ser should 90 desire, the eutire payinelit ma made in cash, A deposit of $300 will be require on the day of sale, and all conveyancing and recordiu will be at the purchasers’ cost. Upon failure of pur- chaser to comply with said terms within one week nt per ‘by reserve lien or deed of trust on from day of sale the trustee reserves the right to re sell the property at risk and cost of defauluug pur- Chaser. | EDWAKD 8. McCALMONT, Trastes Louisiana ave. nw. 47 DUNCANSON BROS,, Auctioneers. EEKS & CO., Aucts. anyJo~d&ds MONDAY MORN- A.M. EFFECT: NINTH STEER SO} Staxp Sx GiaXcey pALiry MOVING FROM HOUSE F my31-2t = DOWLING, Auctioneer. VERY VALUABLE IMPROVED PROPERTY ON THE UTHWEST CORNER OF XAND THIRTY: IRST STREETS, GEORGETOWN, AT AUCTION, DA’ UNE THIRD, 1889, AT FIVE ‘K P. M.. 1 will sell on the ses part of iot 3i town, D.C., frovting 45 feet on of N street by adepth of 76 feet on Sist iiiaret stead coatorable doutie t fal coat a, Ones ‘balance, a an . HOUSE FOR KEN’ and ortable opti 4 the pur- ono : dred af time of sale faired ei time of sale. DOWLING, Auctioneer. y ouveyancing aud ‘rece! chaser. A dey it of 8100 omyse-dkds THOMAS HANCERY SALE OF 35,922.20 SQUA\ COP GREENE FRONTING O8 NORTH AND WATER STREETS, IN SQUALL District of Columbia, passed AveaR gertain further orders aht decrees i 604, docket 19, Anderson et al. One-thind purchase money tn caah: th interest, even (fy per cent, to beevidenced by ‘be re- of $1. AUCTION SALES.__ i ___ FUTURE pais. qypeomas DOWLING, Anew. SALE BY AUCTION OF TWENTY-NINE VALUABLE BUILDING LoTs ON LOAN MILL NEAR BOUNDARY AND Tny i OF OREN TEENTH AND MiGHTTENT PTS. NE memes EOF SbAATDOR J BEND »» .JUNE TENTH, 1884 on Champlain and On: Oo BVen tunity rarely offered to the put 16 Of the best «ul hington. Plats of this j oe. Terms: One-third cash; the residue in “ with notes beart terwat at 6, two, and fb tat the my2h-da. NRUSTEES’ SALE OF UNFINISHED Twoo KY BRICK DWELLING AND STi NORTHWEST CORNER OF K AND NORTHEAS r Supreme Court wed in equity istees w sale bt is reserved t and risk on five days’ notice NEAL T. MURRAY i 4. HOLDSWORTH « resell at pu _DUNCANSON BROB., Auctioneers, NHOMAS DOWLING, Auctioneer, SALE AT PUBLIC AUC SPLLEVUT, CON. TAINING ABOUT § ADJOINING THE COUNTRY RESID FA-SECUETARY WHITNEY AND OTHERS, CONSIDERED « OF THE FINEST SUBURBAN bor bi AROUND WASHINGTON On THURSDAY, JUNE SIXTH, kK. ¢ tnuwes, 1 ah failing aprings. This pore by Loughborvugh THOMAS DOWLING, Auctioneer. FPHOMAS DOWLING, Auctioneer. AUCTION SALE OF DESIRABLE IMPROVED REAL ESTATE ON THE PAST SIDE OF SIXTH + AND HSTREFIS NOK HE SOUTH SIDE 7 1 WEEN NORTH CAPITOL i STREETS NORTHWEST THE FO: mt LLOW sfaction two hundred 7-Akde ME HOUSE NO. 435 Ht FRAME HOUSE ° On TUESDAY, FIVE O'CLOCK, w PART LOT Lieu PAST HONORED Z-tory fra same afternoon, we will sel the NCANSUN él WV ALTER B. WILLIAMS & ©0,, Auct EXTEN rervtt pi SIVE SALE ¢ PETS, I FE, Nos, 132 ) OPPOSITE PENNSYLVANIAAVENCE NoKIM WEST, COMPRISING ABOUT ONL Hi KOOMS. We will sell at public suction, on MONDAY, THIRD, A.D. 1882, commencivie at TiN A. M niu frown tN OAK, ASH. AND OF VERY SUPERIOR TRESSES, PLUSH PAKLOK SULT Es. WALNUT DINING-KOOM CHAIRS AND TABLES, 1 HE HAL i SLTIELS. WALNUT EXTE SIDE TABLE COUCHES. ROCKE # see WALNi T WAKD IG SS, BEDSTEADS, BUREAU: AND WASHSTANDS. e MIRKORS, EASY CHAIRS, WIRE-WOVEN MAT- ASH WARDROBES, PAINTED PURNI- RTAINS, AND COLNICES, 000 YARDS BRUSSELS AND MOQUET NDRED POUNDS BEST QUALITY PILLOWS AND BOLSTERS, RUGS, cha R TOLET SETS, ALL CAK: iiTY OF BLANKET SHEETS KIS, PILLOW AND BOLSTER EN, TOWELS. DEED WIkE COTS, THREE HUN. NKEIS, MATTAESSES. AND Pi TLER ch mn of the above long-rstabil such as uakes it unnecessary to call the w the public to the advantaces Every article is of the best preserved, the Hair Mattresses nu undred and the Feather Pillows quality Terme cash: sale positive, my25-St_ WALTER B. WIT. Daixx HIRES’ ROOT BEER. The Purest and Best Drink in the World, Appetizing, Delicious, Sparkling. A Package (iquid) 25c. makes five gallons, EVERY BOTTLE GUARANTEED. NOTROUBLE. EASILY MADE. No boiling or straining. Directions simple, and made accordingly there can be no mistake, Ask your Druggist or Grocer for it, and take no See that you get HIRES’. ‘Try it and you Will Not be Without it THE ONLY GENUINE. Made by C. E. HIRES, Philadelphia, Pa. apl7-wi GRATEFUL—COMFORTING. BPPS'S COCOA BREAKFAST. knowledge of the natural laws overa tbe ‘operations of digestion and nu: trition, y a careful application of the fine properties of selected Cocoa, Mr. Epps has provided our tables with e delicately favored beverage which save us many heavy ductors’ balls, It the cious use of such articles of diet that — eradtaly Lullt up untd strong P~$~ 9 cy to timtase. Hunared of Maledies ure floating around us ready to attack wi fal ever is Qweak point. We ont ie aR band eles frames ‘Made | i boiling water sabeit-pound tins by’ grocesn Inbeled thes; = JAMES EPPS & ©O., Homeopathic Chemista, gy?imtus London, England, Wazrers P. ATENT METALLIC SHINGLES And COOPER'S BROAD RIB ROOFING, L. HODGKINS, Agen: ap: st. price ay