The evening world. Newspaper, November 18, 1922, Page 16

b | Guter Garments Are Planned to Be Really Warm as Well as Stylish and Trimmings Are as Varied as Materials. Fur Ie Used Lavishly as a Decoration and as an Aid to the Cold Weather Protection the Gar- ments Give. By Margery Wells. HE queation of the outer wrap— that ie momentous fust now, for ‘we are facing five tong months ‘when we shal! need then, and need them badly, ton What is more dis- freesing than an inads uate winter coat whieh the rreezes gayly roam and which in no way satisfies the demands of severe «eather? ‘The coat, this winten ts » thrilling Dit of fashion. You tals it end wrap 3 around your form in just any way you choose. Yau, in o her words, let yourself go and do wnat yuu please im the way of holding your wrap to- gether. In this way we are approach- ing the French, who always do that thing with their clothes. Somehow, after they once pnt on the gown or the wrap, their artistic work has only just begun, for it is the way thoy Manage to carry off the thing and to bear,themselves In the manner of the aharacter of the costume which really gives it style and themselves impo - tance. Trimmings there are galore. All oats have about them some deco- ration aud many of them boast more than one sort. They are embroidered, they are braided, they are banded with wide or narrow-strips of fur, they are faced outside and inside with clever applications of contrasting materials. In every way the trim- ming of the wrap or coat brings into the class of those dressy street cos- tumes for which this season is notable. ‘The dress under the coat—oh, that matters but little, for the way is so large and spacious, so all-embracing and warm, that it quite takes up the xentre of the stage, and whatever is ‘worn underneath it is as plain as can be, as simple of construction, and serves only as @ plane against which the design of the coat can stand out in bold relief. Hip Fullness Is Important. One of the most prevalent designs fer cots is the one which has a long cweist and a skirt section that is ex. emely full. Now the manner of ob- taming that fullness is something so @ariously accomplished that it be- interesting to see just how it ts The coat in the picture—the one Sahih ES sor that is banded with beaver—has Its skirt fullness arranged in a little inset of gathers emerging from the lone waistline. That is the usual way of accomplishing the trick. Then, you see, the skirt becomes a thing. that you can hold in your hands and swing gracefully about your figure, or it is simple enough so that it can hang down quite straight and still be artis- tio looking. Then there are the circular skirts for coats and these, too, have fur bands about them, Often there are mary bands, each of them quite nar- row, but placed In quick succession so that the very repetition of the idea forms the decoration for the coat which is carried still further when it comes to the bodice section. Some of the wraps gain their full- ness by hanging straight from the shoulders, whero they are laid In folds or pleats or gathered into wide hunks. There are sleeves—there must be sleeves for this winter's wrap—but they emerge so inconspicuously that, under certain circumstances, you aro almost fooled into believing that there ure no sleeves. And ft Is the capo coat, or the one which hangs from the shoulders, which can be handled with the gesatest art, for with it you BBE: Fea THE EVENING WORLD, are privileged to wrap {t into any form that sults your mood or the manner of your dressing. Fur in Lavish Quantity When you begin to count the square fect of fur used tn the trim- ming of the modern costume coat, you are astonished and almost frightened at the quantity that hag been used. It would make a coat In Itself ff tt were gathered tegether. But that is not the point, You must have It for trimming this season if you would take your place as an advocate of fashion. A fur collar'ts an absolute necessity, and It is so wide and #0 doubled and so wrapped about the throat that it becomes, when it 1s swung back over the shoulders, a veritable cape. Cuffs! They are as wide as you choose, as spacious as anything that has ever been Imagined as an end- ing for a sleeve, Look at the squirrel cuffs on the coat In the picture, As the model takes tho pose there, sho is using thoss cuffs for a muff as large as any that has ever been in style at the most ahundant moment of muffs. Bu just let her swing her arms loosely at her sides and those same cuffs in thetr graceful ness of line, drapings at the sides of the coat, which give it form and sty and smartness and the appearance that is necessary for this winter's fashions. Then the fur bands about the bottom of the longer coats are numerous and beautiful. can be as wide as you choose ai ne of them are yery iA caesar segues “ESS ' LEPT—THE THICK, GRAY COAT 18 COLLARED IN GRAY FUR AND TOPPED BY A KING’S BLUE HAT. CENTRE—FUR CUFFS MAKE A MUFF FOR A COLD DAY, AND SOFTLY FALLING TRIM- MING FOR MILD WEATHER. RIGHT—THE FULLER THE FALL COAT THE BETTER, BUT IT MUST BE BANDED IN FUR. narrow. They have even been made so narrow that they are just fuzzy edging at the hem, while the wider ones stretch to such proportions that often they constitute the whole of the skirt section, Yes, fur must be distributed over the surface of the modern coat, and often {t happens that the designer chooses to make her s!de panels f fur, leaving most of the rest of the coat show only the plain surface of the woolen material Materials and Linings. Not the least attraction about the new long coats ts the fabric that goes Into their construction. It ia thick and wooly and at the same time tt Is #0 artistcally woven, what with all of the modern achievements in this art, that It looks the lichtest thing as it drapes about the figure. Velvets are used, and duvetynes and even satine of tha heavier varieties. They are interlined with softnesses of wool until there is no question about their warmth and they are folded into lengths that are sure ti hug the figure beautifully, ings are as colorful as the sur. faces of the coats, And when ther is a whole black coat or one of dark est brown it is sure to reveal at an moment quite vivid streaks of flam color or brightest green as the wrap swings open or is thrown back over chair, Brocades are used and chiffons too—anything to add a ray of pic turesquencss which may not have been attained by the coat on its outer surfaces SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 1922. Pe teat aN gear ABOVE—IN SMALL WHITE FEATHERS. PRO- PORTIONS THE TRICORNE FOR THE STREET SHOW A TRIMMING OF CIRE RIBBON. RIGHT—A TRICORNE WIDE OF BRIM 16 TRIMMED WITH A BUNCH OF BLACK AND en PERW OCD @eunvenw cece av™ | q HE three-cornered hat is seen this T season in numberless shapes and sizes. We had just begun to be a H little scared about all this talk of dignity of hats. We had loved the Uittle, pull-down, informal ones so much. Well, then we were confronted by this very welcome representation of dignity. It 1s @ perky sort of dig- alty after all, and by its adoption we sirlishness in headdress, If you are looking for something youthful in the way of @ hat and tf you want {t at the same time to tone in with your more modern and more formal gowns, then by all means have a tricorne, for by that method of dressing your head you will achieve about everything that your desire would lead you to have. Some of the tricornes ure extremely large. These are for the afternoon frocks and for those that are more less trimmed. Others of the qnite small and tightly fitter trimming that carries out their trix ness exactly, These are for wear wit! the plainer of the costume sul the morning coats or the dres serge that are meant strictly for street wear. They are brighter looking than the little mushroom affairs and they give a perkiness to the expression the face which is quite in accordanc y all of the more about the tricorn universa ‘ modern style Another thing iat it is almost It you do not like it at why, then, you can turn it about until it assumes an entirely diffe ex exsion by being worn at ot ‘eathers and rivbons in’ yar rs sand shapes ave the t mingy adopted for these clever t Ttibbons, of course, are 1 ut pressed into rosettes until they make the regular French trimming that al ways stands as some indication of fashion, no matter which season we For Daytime and Dress It’s a Three-Cornered Hat By Janet Winslow. 7 have lost not a whit of our treasyred* may be passing through, But year there are many and numberless variations of this trimming until o1 almost loses sight of the fact that tl trimming began as a rosette. The: are little streamers, there are fallii bows, there are upstanding loops ends. But always the tricorne kee! its original shape and always It away from the face, so that the hat 1s given some chance to shine and 9y face shows all -of its smile and good points without any undue inte ruption On the larger and more dressy hat there are feathers that are made inte || pompo: { at droop over} | the neck, feathers that swirl all abot the hat \ that outline the feathers, in’fact, that do everytht that trimming on a hat has ever been! known to do. You are bound to be picturesque? you wear a tricorne and you td ound also to he placed in the ranl of fashionably dressed women, It may bo a little hard to get used to th newne 5 e, but onee ye how perfectly clothes, it will be ies of ot the oul t,t be obtained In the way of a hat thi ind ong of them rightly ge. ed will adapt itself most big. 11 coats that happen to be inhabittmg your wardrobe this winter,