The evening world. Newspaper, October 14, 1922, Page 16

ce a er oad ABOVE—CLOTH OF _ SILVER SHIMMERS A_ VIVID GREEN THREAD THROUGH SURFACE. BELOW—THE NEW UMBRELLA END HAS A LOOP OF IVORY ON ONE AND A STRAIGHT HANDLE ON THE OTHER. RIGHT—CARVINGS OF WOOD MAKE AN INTERESTING HAN- DLE. LEFT—A CHINESE MAIDEN PERCHES ON THE HANDLE OF A HANDSOME UMBRELLA, \ \\ Look at the New | J ‘wi to know the new atyle when you see them! Tha 1 the popular ind sport for girls Just now, Don't you know how terribly difficult ft is, just at the beginning of a season, to know a new style when you see it? Haven't you ever been caught in the predicament of denouncing somebody's ‘ cause It looked out of place and pec liar, only to wake up and find that it was the very latest thing in fash ions—only you were not educated enough to know it? It is a funny thing how the new lines and the new ideas grow upon us a we become accustomed to them At first we think they are awful and then one day we find ourselves say ing, “How very lovely that very de splsed thing 1s and hadn't I better have one of them for my newest and best costume?” I have found myself doing this often and I am willing to admit it. How do you manage that tendency to resist a change in your- self? You probably don’t manage it You probably just swing into the new thing without realizing what you have done, 1 met a girl on the street only « few days ago, and she denounced the long skirts with a vigor that made me quail, I thought to look down toward her ankles and there if she wasn't arrayed !n the longest of lon skirte, carrying with her an alr which said how stylish she thought herself. I refrained from calling her to ac- count. I just had to realize that fashion was a power after all and that her mind was secondary to her feelings when !t came to the matter of her beautiful clothes Embroidery Adorns Drap- i eries. Look at the embroidery on the sleeves and skirt of the dark serge iress in the picture, Hasn't that been Jone effectively? It is made merely of a woven sllk braid that is guided round in patterns that cover the surface of the sallent features of the gown. There ts some white in the braid, a bit of black and a fouch of red. And then It Is combined with the dark, rich surface of blue serge so that we have that all-desired effect of a colorfulness of trimming arranged against the blue serge that we all love so well. It 1s Interesting to see that one piece of drapery on the skirt takes the trimming and care for it so cleverly. And then it is even more arresting to see the way in which the sleeves re- peat the idea and carry out the dec- oration. You will find this sort of a frock distinctly smart and, if you have one made on its general principle, you will be able to go forth into soctet with the firm conviction that you are walking in the light of the present and the newest styles. Coats Are as Dressy as Can Be. Coats this season can be just as fancy as you wish—or just as plain. But they must have that dressed-up air about them which marks them as leaders in the season's styles, Of course there are the plain sport coats but of those we have no time to spea just now. We are considering the coats that are veritable costumes all by themselves, and of which one ts shown in the {llustration, It is made of satin in a deep tan tone. It is padded and interlined suf- ficiently to give it enough warmth for winter wear. It is then em- broidered in a gorgeous pattern mak- ing @ border for skirt and sleeves, and the braid and threads for the em- broidery are done in dark browns and golden threads, Then, to carry out the color scheme and also to accel- erate the richness of the effect of the coat, there are borders of beaver fur arranged to carry out the design of the embroidery. This 1s only one of the many coats which are being done along these lines, but each of them, you will find, has un individuality all its own. They are eo very handsome in material and making and general character that they constitute a whole costume. There are coats of silk duvetyne, and coats of velvet and coats of all sorts of crepes and satins. Many of them are fur lined and all the rest of them ure so well fitted out with paddings and {nterlinings that they are as cosy as can be and are proof against letting any of the winter weather get under her folds The Silver Evening Gown. If you want to stamp your evening gown with the smartness of the lead- ing fashions, then have about it some- where a touch of silver, And the gown, if you wish, Silver is the idea for all sparkling, after-daylight clothes and somewhere on every gown, it seems, there {s that gleam of stars that cloth of silver or trimming» of silver carry with them. The whole gown of silver ts done , sometimes in the long, slimsy man- 4 ner that draping gives, and then at other times it ts made in a bouffant / way such as the one tn the picture. That dress is made entirely of cloth of silver,and though it is plain enough What Their Good Points Are as Affecting Your Own Appearance. By Margery Wells. Styles and Learn in design and in the arrangement of its lines, ft mevertheless has that and lavishness about it 1 gown so interesting for umptuousn make evening Silver is awfully becoming to most girls. It is good with dark wear reason of the contrast creat is even better with light hair be of the fairness of the quality it gives to that girl It is good for the fut when it is draped, for it lengthens out the lines of the figure and makes them graceful. It is good for the thin girl, then, when it is made something In the manner of the one shown in the illustration ut there are silver trimmings There are silver roses and silver sashes and silver chains for girdles. There are silver headdresses cither left plain or combined with colorful sil and velvet flowers. There are silver underdresses and silver drape- ries of lace over colorful underthings There are silver berthas (o brighten up darker dresses or those made of pale chiffons. There are silver shoes and silver stockings and there are silver ornaments placed on gowns anywhere and everywhere to accent- uate their loveliness and to bring out the reasons for their designs. Yes, you must sparkle in silver this winter {f you are making any at- tempt to be in the running of fash- jon, Gold is good, but not so good as silver is just now. pe aii How to Make a Dress of Tubular Jersey RESSES and blouses made of jer- D sey are gaining great popular- ity. Perhaps it 1s because they are simple and practical and are so easily made. Since tubular jersey has been invented all one has to do to make a dress ts to cut each side large enough for an armhole. Beginning at the armhole, sew up each side at the top, leaving ten to twelve Inches open for the neck. ‘Chis will form short sleeves and all that is left to be done Is to hem the skirt and add the finishing touches. Embrotdery carried out in different colored woo! will contribute to the beauty of the dress, If a belt of the same material is de sired a plece can be cut off at the bot tom before hemming. Dresses of this sort are not only adaptable for all sorts of wear but they are easy to get in and out of and one does not have to be bothered with hooks and eyes or snappers. TW ITT ROR NER To Make the Spring Waist Conform to the Fall Mode By Grace M. Black. AISTS which were worn with the spring suits will now come im handy for the fall sults Before they may be worn again they will, no doubt, have to be remodelled, as the fall styles differ in one respect from those of spring. That is a great deal of color, especially colored em broidery, 1s being introduced as the chief means of trimming the fall waists. A waist that fs too large can be easily made into one of the latest Rus sfan peasant blouses which are going to be so popular this season, by first rounding the neck, if it 1s not already round, and then making a cast around the top for a draw-ribbon « clastic, If the sleeves are loose flowing they can be gathere tight band at the wrists. Th broidery in this case should be very simple, such as two or three rows of cross-stitch in two different colors around the neck and around the bot toms of the seeves. A great deal de pends on the colors selected. Orang» and blue on a white waist would make & very good combination and the draw ribbon at the neck could be of two toned satin to match the embroldery It a waist ts in need of new ¢ added trimming {t can be made very dainty by gathering two or three rows of lace around the neck and cuffs, This will remove the plain look and lace around the neck always tends to soften the face, and to a em UPPER RIGHT—BROADCLOTH AND BRAID EMBROIDERY IN TAUPE TRIMMED WITH BEAVER MAKE THE NEW DRESS COAT. LOWER CENTRE—HERE’S WHERE EMBROIDERY COMES IN FOR THE NEW FASHION ON SLEEVES AND SKIRT DRAPING: The Umbrella an Ornament; A Real Part of the Costume By Janet O you know that the umbrella D has been added to the beauty- supplying elements of the new wardrobes? It \s not alone a thing to keep off the rain. No, indeed! One might almost venture to state that ite business with rain least of its duties. For the umbrella is used now to accentuate the cos- tume with {ts design, to give @ becoming tint to the complexion with the Nght shining through its color and to apply a pleasant frame for the face. The handles of umbrellas are per- haps the most charming parts of them, for they are done in the quaintest and most interesting of designs. Several of them are gathered together for the Page as illustrations, There is the Chinese lady in porcelain with her tight little skirts all gathered about her slender figure and her shape so advantageously posed that she makes an excellent handle to grasp when you are carrying the umbrella above your head. ‘Then she !s such a sweet little flgure to look at when riding about with your umbrella in your lap. Another of the handles pictured is made of carved wood shaped into rounded ornamentations, the larger ones having smaller ones between them in regular succession from the tip of the handle to its base. The wood, too, !s finished in natural tones, which makes tt all the more interest- ing. The little umbrella that the girl is holding has a round handle on its other end—that is, the ring {s not at- tached to the handle where it usually holds sway but {s fastened in a clev- erly convenient manner to the end \ was the Winslow. that sometimes can be grasped whic the handle is out of the way. ‘Tl: means that the umbrella can |) slipped over the arm either by ti cord attached to the handle or by th ring at the tip. It is a most con venient sort of idea and the girls wh are using them are raving over ther because they say they are entirely rv Meved of this awful slipping away that umbrellas are apt to do. Pe: haps this device will help us to kee) our umbrellas tn onr possession for .: longer time than we have been accu: tomed to do. It can hardly keep u from depositing them in corners an! leaving them there. Worse luck! The color of an umbrella is an im portant feature of tts design. I saw 4 girl coming along Broadway under ® pinky red umbrella and she looked 80 sweet and pretty and young that at first I did not recognise her for one of my best friends who had never looked so youthfully glowing to me in her life before. She just happened to look her best beneath a reddish glow, but there are others of you who may take to @ soft green tint or to the Nght thrown by the golden glow of a certain tone of brown silk umbrelia, Sure of you may look loveliest under the rays or a blue umbrella, At any rate, it is worth while to study yourself under an umbrella for that gives you & whole new chance to be beautiful in & new way. You can be looking forward, now, to rainy days instead of them—and only beoaues there are such marvellous waye of accentuating your good looks by means of an um- brella, dreading , ' ' 4