The evening world. Newspaper, September 2, 1922, Page 16

Seme Skirts Are OU gee, not all of the fall frocks Y are going 10 burat upon us with skirts that are touching tho ground, There is, besides, this other variety of dress, conservative Im Nength, qilte plain in cut and nevor evertrimmed Tt eerven, if nothing else, asa basis for a Nation-wide discussion on the length of skirts and what they will be And the funniest side of this general eontroversy lics in the fact that the men seem to be the most interested parties. They take the fashion writer to secret places behind doors, and there they inquire (their eyes peeled to see that no one is discovering them) whether she really thinks the akirts are going to touch the ground Whe doesn't know, of course. She has to wait for the girls in the great American Republic to decide what they will accept. She can't take a stand for long or short, because she knows too well that the mass of American women can change that arbitrary dictum in the twinkling of an eye if they just want to, It mat- ters not whether Paris or New York or all the manufacturers put together may this or that, The American girl in the last analysis will do the de- @iding Now the pictures on this page show the sort of dresses that the American girls will be wearing if they vote, unanimously, against long—or ex- tremely long—skirts. You can't say that there Is very Much change, now can you? Well, there is the deep, dark secret, There fen't really so very much change. j One of the bayers now in. Pari f gent home word last week that she ¥} gw no radical change when she con- ? sidered the openings as a whole, Her ‘ only thrill was over the development of detail work and all that meant for the general artistic worth of the frock. And I want to tell you some- thing about this particular buyer. She 1s young—a mere slip of a girl, you might say, and she goes to Paris every season to oversee a whole raft of buyers from a huge department ; store. What is her business exact ; Well, she simply supplies the un- adulterated American girl's point of view, so that the buyers won't get } too technical and trade bound when making their decisions, She keeps thinking, in other words, what you would like to wear and she tells her thoughts where they will count most for your future wearing apparel. They say her salary for this runs into many figures. And certainly she de- serves it, for she keeps her vision pure and uninterrupted. She 1s doing mis- sionary work for you. Yes, this girl, It would seem from a very hasty cable, has passed by the long skirts in any exaggerated sense. And sho is rooting, as ever, for the styles that the American girls love, So, tell your fathers and uncles and sweethearts to quit worrying over the return of long skirts. The chances are that they will be saved their ultt- mate sorrow. They may still be al- lowed, at least in this next season, to feo some skirts of moderate length— more nearly the length they love. Embroidery and Two Colors The little dress of two colors and wo materials is a typical one and there will be many for the fall made ever this plan. This one is, of course, little dressy because of its white nnel bodice, but it is the sort of @mple frock that can e worn for By Emilie Hoffman. CHOOL togs are interesting S mothers at present, and the shops are providing beautiful displays aiung these lines. Combtina- tion effects are quite as fashionable in frocks for the little folks as in those for their elders, Ginghams will constitute the favored school dress for carly fall, ‘Those made up in a n of plain and check ma- attractive One especially plea model is developed in bre- telle style, with the blouse in plain L blie and the reat of the frock in check. Smart navy blue dresses are ainong the new showings and suc well wearing fabrics as serge, flan- fel and wool crepes are much in evidenve, Those in wool crepe with boucle cheek are attractive. A brown crepe with cross stitching in red is ve. Frocks of wool Jersey Prominent, For dressy wear velvet is Prominent and brown fs the favorite color, The new models indicate a re- turn of the defined waist line and this, > by the way, is rather low, In glacing over the displays of new underthings it is apparent that trim- } mings are again modish. Salemwormes predict that the tailored undies which have had such a long popularity must now give place to the lace trimmed garment, which comes tn all stages of elaboration, from the semi-tailored type to the exquisite combinations of lace and embroidery or tucks and shtrrings. A striking innovation ts the long armhole that reaches quite Are Short, but Opinion Appears to Favor a Happy Medium. By Margery Wells. Glimpses Into New York Shops By Janet Winslow. THE EVENING WORLD, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBHER 2, 1922, + Long and Some suMpPtious occasions as well as f many that are much less formal Attached to the white skirt the & plain and rather full skirt and t tween the two, or rather at the line where they meet, there comes an ap plied design of the most colorful sort of Russian embroidery in bright reds and oranges and a good deal of blac! with white to set it off. You can see how much fulne: there is in this little dress. That |r new. Last year you might have seen a dress of very much this gen eral character but tt would ne have had as much material You add a yard of goods to your gowns this winter if their folds are going to puff out anywhere near the appropriate width A Coat Dress Braided. Look at the dress closed clear down the side—the one on the girl who has a wide fur stole thrown over her arm That is what we call a coat dress Now you see the advantages of it at once—for everyday, practical, all around wear and use, Early in the fall, while the middle of the day is still close und hot, you can wear it on the street with a fur thrown over your arm, just by way of showing that you have a fur and could be */ warm if you wanted to. » Then, as the days grow more chilly, ly you fasten the fur around your throat 4 and the dress ts still good, It looks . now more like a sult, and any dress of this same character will do the same a provided it 1s not too much trimmed % and has not too much color about It * Then comes along winter—the real cold winter—and, yes, this dress is still good, for you haye added a toy coat and you still have the fur to hug closely about your throat or to Ie open. on your shoulders, forming a becom- ing, not to say flattering, frame for the face. Yes, the coat dress is better than it ever was, as far as etyle 18 con- cerned, and while this, consciously, is one of the more conservative of the models, you will find them to embody, on other occasions, all the latest touches of the style—those touches that may, If you are not aw- fully careful, depart from the fleld of fashion before you have fairly got used to them, The Place of the Embroi- dered Sleeve. Suddenly we find most of the em- brotdery on our street frocks righting about its face and locating in the vicinity of the sleeves to take up winter quarters. Now, you may not quite like this at first, but once you study the design on the girl with her back turned in the picture, you will be able to see its many advantages. In the first place the colorful hand- work has a chance to show most beautifully from all angles as the girl turns about, And then {It makes those wide, loose sleeves so much more interesting than they could be under any plainer circumstances. You nee, the rest of the frock 1s quite plain by way of giving the sleeves full sway aa decorative motifs. Yes, if we will have full-and con- splcuous sleeves, why, we might just as well make them the centre of the stage as far as we are able. We may have to, any day, discard them and then we will be sorry that we did not iong ao ha ‘those artinte tines “Qh, You Beautiful Doll!’ © flatter out innate cefulness, . e = : All With a Woolen Wig OW thia is the latest idea, You French, German, Spanish, Finnish, savanatcheore a tawe ie EN N see it's not anything utterly &¢.—and when you call to mind that qa one shen wintow jeaastes In silly. It’s simply a simple practically all of them have wool shy pe with a girdle of small (yo¢ simple-minded) wig made of gold hair, why, the possibilities of making Owers made of narrow metallic rib- threads, gold floss, gold fringe. You a doll out of yourself are simply, bon in varying tones, and in the cen- wear it for a boudoir cap and Paul enormous woot aot Bower ip @ topaa. On a Ppotret designed it with malice afore- You may have longed through all fance frock the trimming of ross thought. your life for red hair and have been jave rhinestone centres, He sald to himself, or words to blessed with black. Very well! Now 7 this effect, if women will wear bou- make a red—an orange The brown tones have been featured gor caps—if they will not keep their tke —for yourself, mado wit toe in costume jewelry and wonderfully hatr indefinitely in order, then U will weol left ov ¥ 1 jer, € wool e pver ff est pretty effects are being produced sweater sma aay vistas especially in necklaces, But while ittle trick cap that will please them Ary you a blond brown 18 modish, many good dressers and every one who sees them. And iiane helet wane ous a ran cree prefer contrast, and it 1 said in the then he did the wig from 4 mass of tno privacy of your owe boudoir, and shops that there has been no abate- gitttering gold threads, admire yourself in that ne wae aa ment tn the demand for red jewelry. — you will admit that it's a new idea Much us you plente Yorn tee The salespeople are cf the opinion and an original one, too. And who ‘Vermilion ribbon abowe the me len that there will be a great call for will eay that Gloria Swanson !n the jooks if yon wish, and have all the red necklaces and earrings through- picture does not carry off the Wig tO crect of w real ware Roni narare out the winter. good effect? She gets all the spirit of io, dented you ae nature the thing and !t suits her face far Joi) wit) be aia i ea i Thost charming jacket blouses are better than a lacy, frilly, ribbony a Ro wack to just the thing to wear on these early rangement would She has pen September days. Most of the shops very canny about the gown she wears are featuring these garments, which along with the wig. It is one of those are practical as well a8 dres be- velvet, Shakespearian, wrapped af wool hair, is. th , n cause they are to be worn with skirts fairs that sets off the wig to good ad divine eeleres ae Sas of contrasting color and material. vantage. A ley gown would never (//8) fll {hs nike ; There is every indication that they have filled the bill. But this thick, [0" (ll {he yet vour Utes (Yau SENT REA FROCK OF TW will be very popular thie fall. rich surface is something entirely ‘ s ut all the shades MATERIALS, DARK BLUE suited to the part designated by the penipd soi. 1D. ene : The almond green which has had outer wis es Soil tet wad: Bho AND WHITE, HAS GAYLY such « long run in Paris prom) o And the hatr underneath the stranie : sade ? A be quite as popular in New ‘York, little cap? Well, thnt can do nmi wpaled ‘by Brow: TONER. BMRGOIDESY 19 Prominent shops are featuring this very well pleases, or not a vestige ncn sw oy nitthe’ hema that shade in millinery and dresses.” Tt 1s it is left to surprise the public eye, | de heel far wee ct he STA a MARIS TAR SINE RREWSEN: betug shown in such exquisite effects There is 0 ribbon too that ft cannot fail to receive the ap- bon with vivid, colorful thet t oftun in hav RIGHT—THE NEW ONE- Probation of good dressers. ‘his round the golden (the really golden) f various tonings to color combines beautifully show them how to wear a simple ve ABOVE AT LEFT—THE EM- BROIDERED SLEEVE IS THE his change in the FAVORITE TRIMMING FOR floll's Woot na glen ME Mt is only oT H4e SIMPLE STREET DRESS with the locks. The effert of a reat 1 i 4 ™ clothes and different PIECE FROCK OF SERGE, silver whioh is having such @ strong beautiful doll’ is complete in ey i ave vartety an WHIGH Ie TRIMMED WITH Vogue now. It is effective with black sense eeieuael simple recipe and the modieh grays and looks cape- Now this big idew brings to nnd ORs: /ssdenly apnea: GRAD UAND BUTCONG. lally well worn as a velvet toque sorts of other fancinesses (iat migh Pa nnabody quite with furs, The iridescent coq 1s a be done in the way of doll-like wip SpE trONN Mie ey Rad ex ¥ favorite trimming on the almond hat Who knows? They may supplant } a uato-anls drawing room RIGHT, BELOW—A WIG OF and produces @ charming blend of eternally feminine lice and pibbor iho aeeeatit a whole int a GOLD THREADS. THIS IS pyOvoGRAPHS tones, Tt is quite Mkely this new least for a keason oF two ade * Xprevsion ee hee ae eee ees gre will be meh) in evidence Now, when you consider oll th (yet oF 8 lot of | rouble THE NEWEST BouDoIR cap ELROD One rews Guveughout the winter. dolls there are upon the ma : Junive wool hile DESIGNED BY PAUL POIRET