The evening world. Newspaper, July 15, 1922, Page 16

sens prareny « Individual Coloring Brings Out a Product That Has Both Beauty and Assured Individuality By Margery Wells for dresses, for negligees, for capes, for blouses and even for some sorts of ‘lingerie. Certainly you know what batik is? It's a fabric dyed in a pattern and 80 intricately done that each frock, each wrap, each infinitesimal piece of decoration has a design that is in- a@ividually all its own. Now, in this universal search for individuality which has us “by the ears,’ as it were, there is tothing more satisfying to the soul than a fabric which is all your very own and which cannot be imitated. ‘The wearing of that gives you some actual right to regard yourself as an individual person with a character that stands alone. It takes away the dire possibility of that chance occur- rence of meeting yourself on the street, which has been known to hap- pen when you buy a stock, ready- made gown. And then you have in your pos- session, once you own a butik, some- thing which will be valuable for years to come—something which is #0 dis- tinctive that, no matter whether you use it for a table cover or a blouse, will satisfy your aesthetic instincts to the very end. Something About Dyeing. The process of dyeing a batik came to us in a roundabout way from the Bees is growing in popularity— feminine Island of Java. There they do it and have done it for hundreds of years—on heavy cottons and linens, Roughly speaking, it 1s accomplished by first drawing a design on the fab- ric and then by covering a portion of the surface with a thin coating of wax and then dyeing the areas that remain, Gradually, more and more wax {s removed from the material, Which is dipped into more and more colors, and after a while it emerges covered with a pattern of varying figures and cleverly combined lines ‘The way in which one color blends into another, the way that the crackled design on the larg’ surfaces is handled, the manner in which large stretches of pattern are spread over the material combine to form it into the effective and remarkable thing that it is. Batik for Hostess Gowns. The hostess gown, for it is a new growth in our midst, ~is something that is a glorified house gown. It has all of the comfort of a wrapper, all the grace and line of an evening gown and all of the informafity and ease that are supposed to go along with a comfortable evening at home or a pleasant afternoon over a cup of tea. Among the illustrations there is one of these—the one with the long, flowing lines and withthe sleeves that fall into veritable wings on the sides. You can see that, with a gown of PHOTOGRAPHS FROm MOB R WOOD + UNDEBWoOD. this sort, no matter what your figure, you can easily go without corsets, and be just as comfortable as you please—and just as good looking as ever you were, if not more so. It is the color of a batik, quite as much as the design, which makes it charming, for because the colors are hand mixed and hand applied, they can be arranged and blended with much more subtlety than they could possibly be if the printing were done by even the most remarkable ma chine. One-Piece Dress of Batik. The ever popular one-piece frock comes forth radiantly when it ts done Yrom batik, See the one in the pic: ture. Its pattern is arranged so that it takes advantage of every line of the press. There is no hit-or-mi distribution of design and coloring but there is, on the contrary, every vitention paid to the original cutting of the dress, and the pattern follows the general scheme in a most direct and pleasing manner This dress is dyed in tones of red that vary through so man that it is hard to count th of them. Then with the reddish color ings are mixed sorpe soft and subtle tones of blue and yellow which make the pattern stand out and tell to its utmost possibilities. Evening Wraps in Batik. One thing that has happened to women's dress in the recent season. is that it is becoming much more bright and darting in ifs expression And in no realm of dress is this more apparent than where evening wraps number are concerned. Just here, you see, i where batik comes in once more, for once you have acquired an evening wrap of soft silk batik, you have something which will last on and on, to be made up in various ways, through many ‘s of your own life and perhaps through years of the iT of your children Some girls are wenring huge batik scarfs made like shawls 1 they are Just wrapping them around their fi ures in Spanish style to make beau nd lively summer wrap Then are cutting these batik s : until they make veritable. wr those straight and fashionab! Hin and they are lining them with some shade of plain silk in rather a heavy quality so that the wraps attain weight and solidity as well as a little warmth thereby, Then others are using the gorgeous: ly patterned batiks for linings for still heavier evening coats. 1e outside surface will be quite plain and then there will show of a sudden this color of ful and beautiful lining which lend all the style in the world and untold beauty to a wrap which is destined to cover the dinner frock Smal! bits of batik are being mor interestingly worked into the desigu of the new dresses as parts of 1 trimming. There wide draped girdles, there are sashes with big bow and long ends, there are inserts of motifs and there are colorful bindin In fact there is no way that dre decoration 18 used where the batik siiks are not worked in on occasion TOP—A BIG MOIRE BOW WITH ONG ENDS !S THE SOLE TRIM- MING FOR ONE OF THE NEWER TURBANS. ABOVE—RIBBON MOUNTS IN. TO THE AIR IN A STIFF, GRACE- *UL BOW. LEFT—HERE THE WHOLE 3RIM 1S MADE OF MOIRE RIB- BON AND A FLAT BOW HANGS OFF ONE SIDE. LL of the fall hats have ribbon bows! Now th mt of vit bon bow les with you. It is all a matter of the sta, res and the degree of pep and smartness that you wish to work into your at- tire Some of these ribbons are stiff, and when they are made into bows with ends they stick straight out into the air in the most independent of man- ners, Bu this is the big secret, they. carry with them the greatest amount of smartness. They are elo- quent of that feeling which is nat- ural to the American women—a feel- ing of being strictly up to the mark every moment of the time and in every senso of the word, There 1s something about a stiff bow of ribbon made by, artistic fingers that gives « By Janet Winslow tone of smartness to the hat which it adorns and adds to the feeling of cllbeing of the woman who is wear ng the creation, In the picture there is one of these hats with a stiff satin bow sticking out at one side, The lines of the hat are its chief characteristics, And then the bow steps to the front and succeeds in carrying out those lines to the greatest degree of their pos sibilities. Hats—those advance ones that are coming along to tell what the fall styles will be—have ribbon bows that may stick right straight up into the air or that may droop down over the eare and over the shoulders with al the grace in the world, Another that i pictured has a bow that ts one of Se Belting varicty. Its ribbon tn WORLD, SATURDAY, JULY 15, 1922. LEFT—BEAUTY OF THE ONLY EXCUSE GOWN’S EXISTENCE. CENTRE—A BATIK SIGNED AS A WRAP MER EVENINGS. RIGHT—FOR TIONS CHIFFON SLEEVES. All the Fall Hats Have Ribbon Bows DESIGN IS FOR THIS CAPE DE- FOR SUM- HOME VELVET RECEP- DYED WITH also stiff, but with ,a certain tendency to droop int. more graceful lines than some of t’'o iihbons are accustomed to io. It ts ottached to a turban with all those rounded, becoming lines that sult themselves so well to so many faces, Then there is the hat with a brim with grosgrain ribbon folded over it. And there is a ribbon bow drooping off the side. This is the sort of a hat which is so inter- esting for the tall girls, for every inc h of its brim droops and thereby re- moves inches from her height. Even’ the falling bow contributes something to this interest and’ it is always a becoming thing to add to the contour of a gown, no matter what its coldr or the fabrie you choose to serve as the material for its making. that, is made By Grace UCH attention ts being paid to tion just For those now who do not purchase a new one every on there are many ways in which they their old ones look just as smart and inte esting as newly purchased ones can make Jersey suits are generally plain and rather dull looking and to the gay young girl they are dep sing when they lack oolor and decoration. A simple means of remedying this would be to embroider it with bright colored wool in a cross-stitch design sround the neck, two rows down the centre of the front and along the bottom edges of the skirt, sleeves and pantalets. This was carried out on a navy blue Jersey suit with very bright orange wool and the result was very effective Applique designs in felt or silk ar- ranged on taffeta bathing a satin or suit would make it very attractive. For instance, a black satin suit with three round applique designs of red, yellow and blue, with two green leav on the pockets or on the skirt if there are would be quite fetching. The ni sleeves and belt blanket stitened in yellow will give it a very guy appearance Bathing suits of surf cloth may be no pocket brightened up by piping all the edges with colored tape and by adding colo buttons. The collar, sleeves and pantalets of a black one, recently en, were piped with green, One odd feature of this suit was that the two How to Make Your Old Bathing Suit Look New M. Black side seams were open from the waist down und were also piped with greem. If your suit has already been piped with some color which has faded, 1® would be well to put the new pipi it more substantial and less liable to fray out Painting Enriches Many Accessories H parently the latest means of decoration on such articles as sdls, according to an exclusive shop _which recently exhibited these things. fully painted in floral designs in the pastel shades. The silk hose ha@ ferent colors. A particularly striking article was right over the old, This will make peek LEE B D-PAINTED designs are ap« handbags, scarfs, silk hose and para The bags were of dark silk beauti- stencil designs painted in many dif~ a brown taffeta parasol displayed im the window, on which a pheasant was painted in various colors, covert one entire side. This addition | color heightened the beauty of the para and relieved the rather dull background —_—_—— Sleeveless Sport Jackets The very latest article of apparel for sport wear is the flannel sleeveless jacket, It is being worn with any kind of a waist and generally with a light colored sport skirt. The wery, bright colors seem to *prevall