The evening world. Newspaper, May 22, 1919, Page 24

x y 4 thomeel ves. “Then you approve of the eliminated” —— “The eliminated excrescence,” Bot er wes: nt "~ nor’west and allowed as follows: an “Because there beauty in white mustin and blue rib- bons in themselves. For one thing, they are out of date, and therefore less attractive to the average man. Again, they are usually out stuMly, an owe use Cocirt, te the white |22¢-bebold” V-necks despite marked muslin were made in the mode, and |Pulchritude of sulted the girl who wore it, it would =) be charming. DAs a matter of tact, the modern| « | version of the simple muslin with rib- F bons is much in evidence—and costs Mike fury. Given two equally beau- tiful girts, one in a simple, little Pewhite frock,’ the other in spangles, @iffons and ollks. and most men will ‘eke tracks toward "On the other hand, bizarre or im- Medest styles attract because curi- @aity and desire for thrills are human And there are always a fow ‘who would rather be ridiculed | ##!4 to have been discovered in Aagola, ma ignored. all, the whole matter comes that we wer ' THURSDAY, MAY 22, 19 19 Not the “V but the Wearer Determines Its Modesty, Says Illustrator Christy SKETCHES LIMIT IT MAY REACH Slender Woman — Revolting on Fat and Ugly One. “Really Beautiful Women,” He Says, “Make Few Mistakes in Dress’’—‘Efforts to Disguise Defects Cause of ‘Hideosities.’”’ By Zoe Beckley Copyright, 1919, by the Press Publishing Oo, We were talking of what ard what is modest in women’s dress. I should 4 (The New York Bening World.) 66 RT,” says Howard Chandler Christy, the famous southpaw illus- w trator, “is elimination.” is beautiful say, rather, still talking—the subject having been rife ever since last an eye along the outline of a slim, bare shoulder he was transferring from his pretty model to his trusty sketching block. > “The e:mination,” ay “That's just the point; what is ugly and what is unnecessary?” » The gowns can be cut as low in ”* the front as the sketch indicates, Mr. Christy admits that certain de- |" the Christy standard of feminine @) tatts of attire are always monstrous, |loveliness and probably soomltness:o! « The bustle, the panthlotte, the bal-|attire. Having noted the total ab- Toon sleeve, the high collar and the /8¢Mce of complexion aids, of “stand- » Sunday, when’ the Rey. Dr. Straton scored certain modern fashions as ro | "sponsible in part for a lapse in the morals of men. We have since had the 8) “deleted dress” stanchly defended by a well-qualified woman, Marta Thompson Daviess. But the defense seemed incomplete without the opinion ‘of an expert belonging to the sex for whom women are supposed to adorn } cut in Mr. Christy hastily, sqvinting © went on, “of the ugly and the unnecessary,” | ® work of art would be tnappropriate on the street or in a ballroom. “Really beautiful women make few mistakes in dress. It is the effort to disguise defects, or to distract the eye from them, that cause certain hide- | osities we sometimes see. Too much make-up is a crime against beauty, Too little covering is another, Both are the result of a mistaken notion of what real beauty is. An exceas of =““Lowbacked Evening Gown Lovely on Young and anything is destructive to beauty." Boing nothing if not practical, I pressed Mr. Christy for specific details as to what, from the vantaged view- point of the artist, constitutes “ex- cess” in the matter of clothes and cos- motics, “No sano person,” he obliged, “ob- Jects to the touch of color that gives freshness to the face, or the dusting of powder that takes away ‘shine.’ When cosmetics are not obviously cosmetics, they belong to beauty. As s00n as they show, they are anathema, for no man wants to see artificiality and vulgarity in the woman he cares for. “In dress it is pretty wen estab- shed what is modest and what is eo “That mostly depends,” said he,| not. Personally, I think the low cut | Se "epon the woman. Beauty and im-| gown is beautiful—here, let me show modesty are often confused. Because| you the ‘beauty line,’ ” what is beautiful on one woman is immodest on another. A low-backed | sktiful left hand of his a eort of guide evening gown, for instance, will be|to the gulleful, indicating, #o to say, >, lovely on @ young and slender wom _@f) &m and give no hint of vulgarity. On| aft. Te = fat old person it’s revolting! So, You see, it isn't so much the immod- _ 2 esty that causes the shock; tt’s the|who posed for Mr. Christy six years, And Mr. Christy sketched with that the sartorial “dead line” both fore and | As he sketched, I found it exceed- | ingly easy to look at Nancy Palmer, 1 assume Miss Palmer may be taken | } ing-room-only skirts" and of “ is no particular te the waistline, face, throat and {ankles (the chief points of attack for most reformers), I asked ber what nything,” said “that attracts the admiration of one's own sex a8 weil as that of the op- posite one." And why isn't that as compre- hensive and reliable a rule as one could find in @ day's journey for the solution of this vexed problem of woman's dross? ——___ FACTS WORTH KNOWING. Very rich deposits of copper ore are 98 Bimplicity. io. bavings. heblne srs, Seafie ween poet, caret automobiles, ss gaa constituted proper dress for woman. | probably didn’t bring it home,” she she promptly, | added, in this house where I put it” —— “You'd better card catalogue your clothe was comment. dntatntnat atm a apatite HN mia inte tit In Persia Where They Celebrate Weddings for Several Days, Entertain the Bridal Couple, and Give the Poor a Breakfast | #78 PERSIA THE MORNING OF THE WEDDING OF ANY MEMBER OF ANY HIGH OFFICIAL'S FAMILY A BREAKFAST 18 SERVED FOR THE POOR OF THE COMMUNITY. A PRIEST ATTENDS ‘ANG 1 PRAYERS ARE SAID FOR THE FUTURE HAPPINESS OF THE BRIDE AND GROOM, Matrimonial Rules of the Road VI.—_KEEP YOUR MUFFLER ON The Poison Gas of Unkind Words Will Asphyxiate Love—Quarrelling With One’s Husband or Wife Is Like Going Over the Top, Exciting but Dangerous—You Can Control Conjugal Explosions With the Muffler of Silence, By Marguerite Mooers Marshall Conrright, 1919, by the Press Publishing Oa my raincoat? Brown, in the | manners, tone of asperity that just naturally belongs to one of those moistly tepid mornings slammed door, was week and you “I did!” the commuting busband| tax, The Browns honestly did care asserted, in Brockdorfft-Rantzau ac- cents. “If I could ever find anything | without being heartily ashamed of it. the lady's sarcastic the muffler, the coat is probably But if you | of the omitted goodby | coffin, nobody | kiss and Mrs, Brown's sobbing con- wants, fidence to the sofa pillow that he “I don't know,"| didn't love her, he never really had his wife replied’ loved her and she just wasn't going curtly, She Gidn’t| to stand things any longer. Mke the weather,| 1+ doosn't matter a particle whether either, “You Wore! the rainooat was in the hall closet or |to keep it alive. tree it in town last} in town, Brown came home to Still they apparently could not avoid the quarrels which were making their |desire to “give ‘em h—." little journey of marriage a series of “When I pick them up-—| disagreeable noises, as nerve-racking which is most of the time—I know | as the motor~ where they are. I suppose now you want me to rummage through the hall closet when hanging in the club where you left tt" “You needn't bother! had any sense of order—and if you didn't hang your clothes over mine— Boe find something once in a ‘# exhaust when it ie not controlled and made bearable by A husband and wife may quarrel |things, and stil be in love. But they cannot quarre} continuously and stay in love, The poison gas of unkind words, of charges and counter-charges will asphyxiate, sooner or later, their af- fection for each other however and loyal it may have been in aes pies hal (The Now York Brening World.) criticise me—and you have the worst Why I ever married”— I am afraid even the most happily married folk can fill in the rest of the recriminations and visualize the serve a8 a warning. lash, will always do that! ‘known literary men who éne buried a plate of (ana | ” Seana EREREEEEEERREEEEEEREEEEEEEEenmeeeeeenenenee ee famous drawings Is that of a young, husband and wife, on opposite sides of @ table, looking down with sick horror and amazement at what lies between them—a little dead Cupid in “Love Will Die” the artist wrote beneath his picture, and, sad as it is, it ought to be one of the wed- ding presents of every couple—to Love will not, need not, die in mar- riage if there is an intelligent effort Nobody's love, how- ever, can stand the strain of constant @ specially good dinner, bearing peace | bickering. offerings of his own in the form of something that now pays a luxury Quarrelling with one's husband or one's wife is like going over the top. While it is actually taking place it is for each other and never “scrapped” |rather exciting, and, in the phrase which Sergt. Empey made famous, each disputant is dominated by the When a quarrel is well started a man and women who care deeply and intensely, who would die for each other without hesitating for the blink of an eye- say the most appalling compete in vitriolic insults, even if they keep off billingsgate and the breakfast china, Not that they In his book of Amer- ican impressions Arnold Bennett— apparently without surprise—tells of t|the wife of one /of America’s best hs Fes. as you have used, guarded by the company, Tenants usually hide their gas meters in the darkest recesses of the | cellar in hopes that the gasman won't be able to find them, but this cub terfuge always fails. Gasmen are trained to smell out gas meters, no mat-| There have been rare cases when they have fcund it impossible to locate the meters. Were they baffled? Not a baf— they sent in the bills any way. ter where they are hidden. run on forever. AMONG TH® TRAVELLING TRIBES IN PERSIA IT 18 THE CUSTOM TO CELEBRATE WED- DINGS FOR SEVERAL DAYS, EACH MORNING FOR SEVEN DAYS DANCING GIRLS PERFORM IN’ FRONT OF THE BRIDAL COUPLES’ TENT, Pe ey c forty Ignorant Dyan: Copyright, 1919, by tho Press Publishing Co, ER Sam Loyd had perfected of gas appears on the meter THURSDAY, MAY 22, 1919 BY WHOLESALE MANUFACTURE Construction at Factory Instead Site Would Greatly Reduce Cost. Profiteering problem. demands for comfort and what used to be considered ing construction, it commands consideration. Coming as it does from a New York architect w f Rents Keep Up, Why Not | BuyY our HouseReady Made As You Do Suits and Shoes? CAN BE DONE,‘SAYS ARCHITECT ATTERBURY, Designer of Sage Foundation Development Says HE ready-made house has been suggested to the Governor's Recon- | struction Commission as a solution of the Landiord and Rent Based on the proposition that building costs are increasing, that tiplying, and that architects have gone as far as they can in cheapen- OF BLOCKS of Building luxuries are mul- ho has done real things, stamping bim as anything the attention of the commission. It is in brief, a standardized concrete factory, and put together architect who laid out the model sub- urban development at Atterbury has just the Army Educational Commission. He has devoted more than years to the problem of the standard- ized house, and the official request for What is the ‘ready-made house? The plan was offered to the Com- mission by Grosvenor Atterbury, the | houses, puilt of standardized materials, twelve but a mere theorist, it is occupying? house, made in standard parts in # by machinery. — in standardized parts. A five or six Forest Hills! room house Cun be built of less than L. L, tor the Sage Foundation. Mr-|1099 different pieces, all slipped into returned from France, where he went to advise on] 4 jiffy, and be “ready to wear” threo the reconstruction of the devastated | gays after it is started, war area, and served as chief of the housing and community planning Of} house is just like a child building a place with a gteel derrick, fastened in According to his plans, building a toy house of nursery blocks on @ olg scale, “A house can be built in three days with the labor of four or perhaps his advice in the present emergency | six men,” Mr. Atterbury said. gave him an opportunity to present the results of his painstaking study. Briefl, may be summed up as follows: We are living in a ready-made age. ready-made shoes and We wear cloth ready-made laws and automobiles. Why should we persist in clinging to the . individualistic made-to-order house, built of anywhere from six to twelve different matefials? 8 Atterbury wants standard Essays GAS METERS McEvoy (The Now York Evening World). himself in the making of puzzles he constructed the gas meter, The résult of a month's consumption to the ordinary person as follows: 222% * DVGSK Y45|2&6751396100:-OOBVD ‘This doesn’t mean much to the layman, but the trained gasman appar- ent!y just glances at it and knows immediately you owe the company) o. 11. oy cach house. $19.60, His method is simple when explained. He first strikes out all the 1). cost of the material, which must yowels, consonants, punctuation marks and foreign accents. He t diyides the result by three, extracts the cube root, raises it to the arth) power, adds his age, the day of the month, the month of the year, the pop-| labor of not more than half a dozea alation of East St, Louis, and subtracts the height above the sea level, the men.” ‘ age of Ann, the average rainfall for the Sehara Desert and the price of | He throws this result away and charges you for twice as much gas | built alike?” How he does this is the secret process which is jealously | then The little hands on the gas meters, like unto Tennyson's brook, And they always run in high. They are so constructed they won't budge while being watched, but as soon as nobody is observing them they speed up to thousands of revolutions per minute. which controls this is also the exclusive property of the gas companies. The process Most gas is natural and is found in the ground and in people you don’t the biscutt were more deadly missiles than the dit of Haviland.) Just as men receiving wounds in the heat of battle are unconscious of them at the time, so two hotly differing individ- vals will use dum-dum bullets and other ma- terial forbidden by the laws of hon- rable combat injuries inflicted on them. The suffering comes later, when the tumult and shouting dies and each stricken being thinks in his or her heart, “How could he have said that to me!” such an accusation!” have said what wounds lovers give pain the givers more than hurts they receive. Wounds heal, if they are not too deep. Scars remain, and, like the scars of the body, those of the heart and soul always may ache anew. "Therefore why should not married the physicians say that hack and stab and even without feeling the “How could she have made “How could I I did!” For the are a disfigurement and ‘ke, Natural gas ts used for illuminating purposes, and those who ooze natural gas at every pore are usually illuminated. Gas may be used for cooking, lighting, heating, floating bonds, selling real estate, promoting prize fights and electing candidates. Gas is also used in engines and mat- rimony, and progress in both depends upon the right kind of sparking. When the engine is too full of gas it knooks, for the average man. never lived. So long as human be- ings are equipped with nerves, not the most perfect affection, not the loftiest ideals, can entirely eliminate clashes between two nervous systems domiciled under the same roof. I do believe, however, that quar- relling in duced to a minimum by a very simple method, Both husband and wife should make use of it, if it is to be We dodge, or try to dodge, |now on the ground, but who eve marriage can be re-| “The concrete blocks—or blocks of a substitute we expect will be cheaper Mr, Atterbury’s argument} 444 equally substantial—will be mado in a fuctory, just as steel beams aro made in a steel plant. “Concrete construction is being done’ heard of making steel beams for a building where the building is being, constructed? | “From the factory made in the coneret | blocka—all standardizecy | shapes and sizes—will be shipped on flat cars to the Gevelopment where the houses are being built. One after another, the electric derrick will lift the blocks out of the car, drop them jinto place, the workmen will pour on the cementing mixture, and the house’ will be ‘uilt, Of course, plumbing must be added. But there will be # | Proper place for it and the phumbin; like the rest, should be standardized.” “To build the first house will entail making moulds and setting up a plant, To build the first house, or one house in an isolated place, would cost morv/ | than the pre it method of construc tion. To build a thousand would o There is on be paid for under any system of build- ing, the overhead on the plant and the “Would all the houses have to be “Does the child with a sct of nur- sery blocks always have to build the same kind of a*block house just be- cause he uses the same blocks?” was the reply, “Will workmen Mke the idea of be« ing put into ‘ready made’ houses?” “They do not object to ready made. shoes or ready made clothes, so why. Object to ready made houses? said the architect. Then he added: “There are some men who have the inclination and the means to gratity it for made to order shoes at §% a pair and made to order clothing aw fancy prices. 1 “I consider it no hardshtp for a man to wear ready made clothes and shoes, “The worker needs, first, protection: ‘The same thing holds true| ffm the elements, comfort, warmth and privacy in his dwelling. If he cam obtain these, he can be satisfied wmtil he can afford to indulge idlosyi crasies. “As it is at present, the worker hag’ no chance to pick and choose his | dwelling place. He takes what he cam get for what he can pay. “Lending landlords building loam money at low rates will not solve the problem, Architectural planning wilh not do it either, We can only get so effective. I have summed it up in many rooms into a given space. the bit of automobile wisdom, “Keep a ee 0 & given space, Tam your muffler on.” In other’ words, |@Pechitect cannot work miracles, when a quarrel Is about to start lec| “The only promising chance for ree the calmer of the two put on a muffler of benign, unruffled, steady silence. surely controls conjugal than the soft answer which may turn on wrath instead of turning it away A quarrel between two who love and who do not want to quarrel is usually a nervous reaction. ‘The chances are that when the husband's individuals | lief To my mind it more | . ‘explosions | #94 labor, is to reform building methods |These now are wasteful in material If the same hit or miss methods were used in providing for ; other needs of the $25 a week worker as are applied in his housing, he could not even pretend to exist, Mr. Atterbury’s plan differs from | that advocated a few years ago b nerve control snaps—perhaps a few | Thomas A. Edison, when th Wiad hours after an undeserved call-down | of Electricity" proposed to “pour from his employer—his wife may ‘ough @ hos have had no disturbing incident in her day’s routine, Then why cannot she accept in serene silence his pee. folk inflict as few of them as pos- sible? I am not foolish enough to put for- ward @ counsel of perfection, to say that a husband and wife ought never to have Such ideal vish comments—and why cannot th husband show equal consideration on the evening, for example, of a day she has devoted to housecleaning? lf the rules of motoring applied to matrimony how many . and. wives would be nto @ mould, | the moulding is to be done in instead of on the ground, are made in factories, why not hous he argues, He be. lieves the plan has all the merits of the “sawed to fit” wooden houses, without the monotony of design, the labor of fitting together hundreds pieces of wood, and structures,