The evening world. Newspaper, October 8, 1904, Page 9

4 The Costume de Style, Inspire Se 4 Picturesque Goguns Copied from His- toric Sources—Oid Family Portraits, Sought by Designers for Dress Sugges- tiohs, — Strikingly Different Is the Silhouette of the New Figure. UST about « year or s0 ago the fash- fonable dames of Paris—those who ead and make rather than follow @ fashione—deciared that their exclu- | sive ideas in dress wero being copled | quite too quickly by the multitude, Ons among them, cleverer than the rest, | guggeated that they dress in exact re-| preduction of thelr own family portraits, | that these would afford styles that | could not be copled by the undestrable; | and, presto! the costume de style was/| born. | And directly to this same costume de style can wo trace the very wide tat | tude in modes which this season affords. All of the historical styles are being revived, and the designers have been haunting the national galleries all sum- | mer, copying a sleeve here, a collar there, a bodice somewhere else, and combining those varying items in the most delightful way to make the fash- fona for the modern mald Regarding the fashionable figure, the outlines have changed and m terially in these jast few weeks; this in consonance with the changing modes, Phe bodices aremnow being fashioned to @ worn outside of U 1 even some shirt waists are on view at an importer’s little basque or} peplum |s Intended, too, to be worn| over the skirt, The Draped Bodice. However, to return to the dressier styles, the new mode calls for the Graped bodice that extends in a very marked and sharp poirt in front, a style that cannot help but improve the shortest figure, and add grace and slenderness to the wearer, And to In- crease this very able et the bustiino is raised 4 trifle—not too much, you know; a nice discrimination must be exercised in this—tnd the Hae from the armhole to, the waist is cleverly made somewhst long $0 silhovette of the fashionable folk ix widely different from that which the year at this time thelr figures you and what pl they fashionable prgtession. New Qolorings. The voluminous ski presented , last and this season by ain teli Just what, pace maint n the nd sleeves and cloths, and lotha and bedices demand the sheer new colorings In fascinating some of the crepes are simply The French have just brought out 4 line of colorings in the ch! those soft things that are ju and which they name le trefle incarnat, All of the red-c y faintest or the red clover colorings, from the to the THE WORLD: SATURDAY EVENIN ” eRe tichest and deepest, are represented, and exquisitely beautiful they are, Elephant’s Breath. The new gray tints, from the softest pearl that looks almost like white down to a thick moleskin coloring, are very much in the van. There is one very fashionable color that 1s @omewhat! whimsically known as elephant's| breath, and which is really and truly! them, The oneseamo crepe de Chine, as far nearer the color of an elevhant's| the double widths have come to be hide than what one might Imagine his| led, Is a mighty favorite for these | |for the necessary shirring tucking and| accordion plaiting can better be planned for and with less waste of material in the wide than in the narrow fabric. breath to be. Both the clover and the elephant col- orings are trimmed with embroideries in the dull, faded tones; and dyed lace ts often used to supplement the other| THe Feeeessories. trimmings. The exact tint of the cloth he yoke Is really the foundation of must be reproduced, or the thing is @| those charming accessories to one's | failure, wardrobe; and this is covered up and | mecealed by a thousand and one elev er} in the trimming I!ne. Their con- | is so simple that even the verl- est amateur in the dressrhaking line can Robes Intimes. There are some very fasclr tures In dress which we are beginning to copy from the French, and |fashion them for herself. From tho one of them 1s the use of those informal | concealed yoke the ful! folds of the lit- garments which the clever Parisienne (tle jacket depend, ‘and here ‘it js |{n @ carcless grace. Jt must hang| shoulders distinguishes as robée Jntiniee. Family shirred, tucked of accordion plilted; the | loosely around the figure, just on the| The shirred ) rather than the wats tassels in jet beads or extreme of Infor- |fength being regulated to suit the wear: |} late breakfast and ,¢r. In accordance with the more formal or madame—and | fashions there ts quite a fancy tor half and three-quarter le life fn Franc mality, and for f family mademolselle as well, for that matter— | eof the h df the in , OCTOBER §, TOT. heavy vesage drops into the deep | delt without bl t order give a welght| full puff to the elbow, and hold the sash in| proidered using. d by the Picture Galleries, Is Thali The sleeve is a with an em aff, and the skirt is disposed with corded shirrings over the hips, and eful, it must de ——— indulges in those ceful and artistic took Yards up a vanes © . three little ruffles headed with the garments that suggest, without entirely |for ruffling and ed The Illustrations tame. appear between. Knes and hem. @ Out, the nowliges Ide are just ns Panels of embroidery are posed at in Jand of half or thr wear with th dressy silk! match the coat | petticoats (the slenne perhaps The Sash. | svends more nl thought and OLORED shirrings and broderie Very often a eash of velvet ribbon of ( se appliques are the features money upon her lingerfe thar upon the res, of her wardrobe) there are the a tint that will harmonize or contrast | ‘ model, The biscuft-col- i) artistic coate or with the crepe de chine is threaded| pred crepe has yoke and plastron of the moat delightful Jackets or. whatever one chooser to call, through ing and tied in front | eyelet work and a@ bertha over the very ou That Appear To-Day. | time late nv tervals on the skirt, ine is attained with a Paquin flounce! iaircloth on the drop skirt, K& Girlish Model. | The printed crepes de chine aro a and yell the most delightful party frocks, and the correct in tulle make suipure. | There | tormer. for the New Gow —Fichus and Sas es an Espec ture. The New Mode Cal for the Gra fe Coat with Waisteoat, The loose coats, or, rather, tl define the curve of the firure im seams only, are deservedly the youn clement of fi mode 2 Mamtrated is ins tex cheviot with & vest cloth carting tn bi hangs loose! i fragt, sodine et ne, Ae the. gored skirt inturaing plal each seam, and a \Some Novelties Seen in the PERA wraps, of O ik renaissance over with the edges all of. taffeta, Belt of soft leather with & is @ separate yoke of shirred and tucked | the upper one velle@ with the net and stamps ™ tulle and a bertha bebe waist of the| the lower two flounces similarly treated | centre, Others are crepe and tulle with deep sash of the} with appliques of lace added. with the the ‘The skirt 18 in three sections, | Brown slcilionne makes this extremely | candidate a de oe ot *; A new and thrilling romantic} serial, “The Sorceress,” based} | upon Victorien Sardou’s great ® play, in which Mes, Patrick Camp- bell is to appear here, will begin in The Evening World of Thurs day, Oct, 13, | he can t where he is joined Miss He: wear in the] ovd later CHAPTER Xi. The Mystery of the Murdered Girl Explained—Bechwith Discloses the Secret of His Personal Desire to Hunt Claude Caine to the Death. i ° i train as f “pat n ‘ M The « ynow took I and tald swarpin ace slips, Me was Charilg, Lockwith, Miles noted the alg: e ## Yale #2 Boy's “ “ Darling 4 # #7 nly ¢oarser and less gentle, And | the a year on the case. To-day my | ahanding and checked Ue words was found an old-fasi-| “t rs muttered 1 the final link of ert: | vad been ab: speak with the engraved name “Th ‘ Well. when you var Thle morning? At Merid the side, Who su ford I had to 4 t i. “Why, dear, I ‘ \ I fancied my except tom was Belgarde, Marga & might have wough strain. Mow a » sisters, “ nd I feared th ms to be a mis I Margat whom | t 1 Beckw m ry n kh Herma plain, Mies B 1 abe | { t ve « © s e We e we 1 a u . @ t Ig 4 haneane ie wae 1 r ateh . gaged gore 8 . M Wl and ae esita me t 8 ° Hore A ba I Miles enger ‘ plox ' 1 it i ffair had t i ” y ' i] 4 ent u ® a a ’ r hf tr ‘ 1 w Y " U . ' b 5 x Fay © t le A‘ 1 1 8 ; ‘ wf 4 Ja x 1 ‘ were ‘ ste Brida a , 1 Claude I » t tiny 5 " . rd ® Agente tr } murd: 2 , tho g 4 naw ; ‘ rf 1 r ‘ Poy Hele’ , ted 1 him? But Judge Belg : a gan Bu iF i 1 figure. gery tha manent ‘ “ ‘ and when to m r for her twin was belleved, but Ihave preof ' dorers “Bo It ) —~ ; but f Maven yesterday she bad Day's very sister and, anoying she might prot by to the contrary, K had been working to stay at Fay's aide while we do that?” these men we are sesking may break) Beckwith hes! play, In which Mere. bell Is to appear here, in The Evening World of disjointed sentence from a heart that wae tray its life seeret: “There was a girl, She engaged to marry ‘No. I have followed this trail too! through the meshes of the police's hu- long and too hard to be willing to fore-| man net. And If that happens—well, my wi go the joy of being in at the death. | trip out there wan't have been for noth- Now that I know Fay is safe, thie old | In world becomes bearable once more, but strain I've been under, the sus- | detective 4 then the unspeakable agony | minutes It will be thme to start.” of the past day have gotten such a| “Good,” commented Hereoward, hold on my nerves and my mind that briefly, and started to return to where I think I'd go crazy if I had to sit Miss Belgarde sat ewalting the end of you're right,” agreed the 1 soon know, In a few wi “ia we were chums. met have been my wife, “My father was quiet while the climax of it all is en-/the conference, ®. we ate wae spentiog. rt roted, Besides, though I now lack my| Jeckwith lald a hand on his arm, ing. and Thad just to cauon mt first wild) impulse for these men's d “Kkemember “Fay oat os -awy ly poy 5 t sist . | Ou Ow a it et Dugro has silpped from beiwe s ing her sister's am oe a her eoputunes at my fingers twice the pas da wil be B y of time to sudden absence, and Caine ind I mean to make sure of him this ws to her later, When the murs | deliver the letter to Ber, t lerer {8 brought to justice she may | verbal explanation on her . leak the erie? teave east |town the following day. t if you and Floyd and I go there] ¢ | 6 letter he gave her was not t with the police we go y| “Who actually committed the mur-| but a forgery cleverly constructa® sve ae he eg . ler so was the hand that thrust | himself. He gave it to her ‘ s . aie Bones Wir ere ne | Mare rde over the clit and /Dresumably In my handwriting anda r ¢ shall simply see the work o 4s . plea to her to release mé fi : k her 8 the face a8 2° ongagement, It was the sort of @ agled f nly a cur could have written. Ag a you over pmY f # Hiattle 8 was Dugro.” | Was delivered to her by my eagd No” a 4 Bockw in nome The hand that | sho could not doubt ite ne pr ise, wha 2 ‘ = M » tate De Pg a re oe and Fag Se i he rig" led her to clope with Axine before I my Just this: A I , lturned to America. They were : F She had money in her pwa about that |iegs than a year Caine sht.”” he sald, |1} "hen ha beat her, & . al. but there | about the letter that ;: ide Hereward | troth and deserted her. yf Ls sey ¢ poverty--when » fig " perhaps, You ean und it I have followed Claud ! ie : h one alm=-his deat $ understand TJ « ‘ 9 tadsiimerst nowt, t + have led me on thr at * » bitter ve = i " e a his opportunity and is able to) that q u meat | her tne down’ the whom & half dozen betwe Caine ane told | work we have ther had not been able to stop.| me that when the hour was ripe it must | | 1" u see my point? One or both of | Bt LIME MAE eet ine that In- | ,