The evening world. Newspaper, November 14, 1903, Page 5

GORPRISING Ideas in Furs — The Jungles Ransacked for Skins for boyely Woman’s | Winter Coats—bavish Trimming on Fur Gar- ments—Fur Buttons a New Crinkle—Many Attractive Novelties in This bine. EA L trons Have a New © Fad of Wearing Ad= justable bace Sleeves’ with Different Gven- ing Gowns—Swagger Designs in Mackine ~ | toshes — Extremely Nobby Garments for = Rainy Days. } EYENING Toilets Are Positively Theatri- cal—A Gown Covered with Crystal Drops— Wonderful Colors The Points Wherein” This Vear’s and bast Vear’s Styles Differ— Fashion Notes. NEVER Before Were Costumes So Pictur- esque and Charming | —Quaint Features that Carry Us Back , tothe DearOldGrand- mothers’ Day—In the Accessories of Dress Are Many Novelties, soft material in silk and wool can be charmingly trimmed with It. Smocking is widely employed in con- Ve all the hon rot a ry nection with accordion or sunsplaitings olden, they ar the colo and : ; ; 3 thesplaits rising from a smocked yoke ‘here are many quaint features, and aa a ee é 2 ‘ aap e : ; ites ts pacer ‘women who admire old-fashioned ef- 2 ¢ é : eu tes . % ane 4 ay'a” nealiges, ess cata hong fecta can make themsdlves look very : Sia te Sale : ‘ si } “ ieportantungect tats Fro sat mate thoneaver ah vy ‘rportant subjest when a wardr: toch ke dhe to be considered. The extreme modes are like beautiful ato ear to he fem portraits taken in the early nineteenth te a beautial shade of pale century, and a revival of the Louls fama dots ot a avery hte period is the color scheme of pale yel- raised dots of a silvery white, low or straw color with pale blue and soe “back "and fronton the pink, For evening tollets this idea ie and sleeve ‘apes Toe wn Wael charmingly carried out in the soft pom- c J c s ‘ ¥ very sinpie ao fale ieee « |padour silks which in these delicate tea! ? y LO 5 eal : Bris Se ; ‘ : 1c is open down ths Sosa Ha shades attains perfection. F : ‘ a he “eh j Haale: \ . AAS f : on, It Is open down the entire frone : ut t of pale blue silk Evening Toilets petticoat of pale blue silk ¢rimmed e to correspond to the Oia of ’ fichu, Fre Theatrical. negligee and very full The Winter Hats evening totlets some of the effects Pi are positively theatrical. Not only and Feathe are black and eliver spangled gowns damon eee in vogue, but entire costumes are made : doubtedly play a conspicuous — of white or colored net covered with in making the woman—for never li palllettes of red, orange, blue, pink or tll this season was the (mportance 6 violet. These are graded in many pot hat so fully realized, It co shades, the darkest being used at the the Stage now when a ‘wate c hem of the skirt and the palest tones select a hat unless she is dressed finishing the decolletage. the gown she intends to combine A gown that created much comment the hat. recently was cowered with cryatal drops, This precaution is taken not which were so beauUfully cut that they on account of the color, but to be cer= * sparkled like diamonds, ‘The wearer tain of harmony of Shape, as pate gowns demand a perticular type of picturasque and charming, and F ASHIONS ‘were never before so while all the new modes are really | was a perfect blaze of brilliant lights : 4 ' SEBS : : ? yd the gown was made without ‘rill os : f as: c . j f A gown with wide yoke and di trimming of any kind. ile Caracal Wit shoulder trimming requires.a wide. ‘ rs @ Another startling evening gown that |, od ae The wshort-backed hat reigns, a iwikedtra caenealioncleraa@ any original é ay Tigstt BY able Trieamings some are made with a brim that 9 aie creation of black fox and black, {rish * i : 3 tonlshingly wide at the sides and quite: point lace over. white silk. The waist = & ‘ ake sae r cut off directly In frowt, was 0f-tte ‘lace, very full and pun,, /2SQIO0 Gbhle. : Se - s is studded here and there with large} ‘The trailing tendency ts e -with twd straps of the fur around the a? cut crystal nailheads, Hanging from | noted in feathers, flowers, chiffon ribbon. L? Sgyuirre, Weckpiece In decollete neck and one over the this are chains of gunmetal with crys-|and fur, all of whith droop upon the shoulder, The ekirt; aiso of the face, rrel And f d tal beads at Intervals and drops at the | hair or wack, had long wide tabs of the fur falling OY LLL 7. : : ‘ said) of (enshikchainvonrtaveved! seeps’ |For will be woes) & ree cae wk to the knees, a full ruffle of the lace| ively in this way, but the selected tints L£rmine i y a y The chains graduate tn length from the | trimming, and the fur ‘hat will * with frou frou edges was eet on below|should blend dolicntely ‘one into the knees in front to the hips on the side, | more popular than ever before, the tabs. With this costume was car-|other, as a great difference in tone. and the crystals are cut to aparkle like ae @ large black Marabout feather | which might produce a contrast, must diamonds. fan with fancy spangled gold sticks, | be avolded. Fur buttons, heads and talls can be ; giving the only touch of color to the At shades of red are in vogue, from aes (Ut Sivne ie) Barat ecn OS pian costume, blushing cherry ‘tints to the richer coat of tan or brown co o ‘The fashion of wearing fur on even-|darker shades ranging. from dahlia to taht fitting and trimmed rope ths Tae St In toe aniddies with a hen ing gowns iq becoming more and more|wine, mahogany, clafet and cedar. front, with buttons and taile of mink or . Drooping over one. in yogue and beautiful models are| For the house there is nothing more blown ak cords, will be quite. modiah. shown made of white tulle trimmed with | Charming than a red gown relieved with Chend.le ‘often take ‘the place of mwhite swansdown, giving ‘the snow-ball|@ touch of black and white on the fur talls when fur Dutton are used on coats, effect to perfection. waist, _ Society Patrons Ly Paci fap Car ore a Something Swagger ored tulle or silk are very smart. Have a New Fad, |""%4 evening wrap in the new brilliant NEW fad, originating’ with one of|coronation red te decidedly modish and ray our leading society matrons, 1s to| with a linine of pompadour brocade or wear with different evening gowns |fur 1s a dasinable acquisition to any Adjustable lace sleeves of black, or} wardrobe. Cape collars may be added ‘white. These sleeves aro made of very) to give the required droop to the shoul: @no lace and cut In the latest fashion, | ders and these may be edged with either @raped or flowing as are angel sleeves.) Russian applique, one of the new fiber ‘Whey are useful as well a3 ornamental| braids or fur, for with a gulmsve to correspond ti: Gscollete. @uwa may, acon be’ trahes kK Street Gown for a Rainy Day. T UCH swagger Wesigns as there are umphs of the modiste's skill’ and IS to be found in%™ mackintosh now- cunning. They are quite ‘it . Aadays! The time when a woman|from those worn last season, for y ‘considered “any old thing’ good enough |do not bulge in front and conceal yery) {to wear in the rain has passed, and to-| little, if any, of the belt. day's rainy weather finds her looking as | fitted with small darts to do away ath smart and well gowned as in the clearest|the fulness, and thus arranged $i of surshine, are daintily xraceful, displaying One extremely nobby mackintosh is a [figure to advantage. very pale gray almost white, or per-| There is @ strong tendency to ‘oar haps oyster, which ts the best name|the belt up in the back, but the dip formed into @ high-neck costume, and a r 4 front ‘almost plain gown changed into a very dressy of Tan loth. tor Aha: Guede aauaeiinsie ioum ote below the waist line in front has tae. Nw of the Jatest: Importat long straight coat, factened at the front | 84 Fancy jeweled pins fasten theso 0 the subject of more mecaraais Walvet, Tee Rear Se contese: oF OnN= NI query Sunmete S maklon 18) CNecuertoe chiare cea! Delts than other ¢ @leeves to the gown under the shoulder than {s usually allotted to \one struction by e Fitth avenue modiste for | stylish ert nouveau Wenign. Black velvet | oOo “analst Je in thee Uterine! & social leader, Iam told, “to create a| collar and cuffs and a gay silk linin Poreeel| ataitheletrareets Bhowarcrsdiing |Skiates the aweil ralivoret * | ishing pape aay peindpeicr iit night." It {s to be absolutely plain and! The woman who wants tollook well all Pash Pol dugsureniparagisece > untrimmed from the neck to the foot| the time and tn all her gowns must pro-|pc Rimigs in fresh ver tot Neen and glove fitting, save for the girdie| vide herself with several lace yokes. She) hand ties, in fhe gay arian Watt or stomacher, which 1s in Itself an ex-| mupt have one an large as a cape and|teyeely plein tn gt, iver and gua treme novelty. The wastband 1s of gun-| which 1s cut rounding at the neck. This|motal, ce motal beads strung on fine wire and} is to throw over the shoulders of an| Persian panne in, softly, rena iy = ; gown is of sun-plaited pink chiffon in]}trimmed with astrakhan fur dyed to , @haded tints. The darker tones toward|match the color—just as if it were lace , the: waist line of the bodice and akirt,|instead of fur, It was trimmed with ‘and fading into a soft rose pink at the| pendants mado of astrakhan and ailic hem and low round neck where it is|/brafd, the exact shade of the cloth, and edged with wreaths of pink roses. The|ghaped like @ three-leafed clover, each \very distinctive novelty of this gown is|jeaf being of the fur, outlined with the old gown. Then a lace collar that does fFeapond te eine ‘blot zo vil be worn | / | | 4rimming. A dainty girlish evening| creation, was a tan cloth street gown | | | | | | jone that promises to be very popular] self-toned ollk braid. They were joined ¢ 2 not quite reach the shoulders and] fancy ies in | | Saal gary sata Basel eat Fei in the centre with a knot of the ailk @ | pointed back and front, must fasten in ere, eed wrees ort of two long le of @| braid from which two silk tassel ends the back with bustons, or fancy pins, patent kid’ belts, some ‘This yoke is quite di nd {a"high|and. others thickly studded ‘ in the neck and takes the “place on ‘'a| steel nail-heads or jewels, ™ fancy stock. much in evidence, ‘of the white lace yokes are of| Bizarre notions In neckwear are yee: heavy lace, wihtch /s sufficiently durable] one of the inevitable consequences ef to launder well. fashion's present caprices. ¥ the pink roses. gatin has an added charm given it by The effect is very pretty, springing|medailions set on of blue astrakhan |from a deep waistband or girdle, hav-|ontlined with fine-ailk cord, which ti BAR, monkey, lynx, the new| design, and the ‘applications are out-| garments and for trimming other furs} or the country roads in her - Russian caracal, minever an4|lined by narrow bands of black velvct| as in the Bton pictured, Moleskin and| colored machine, ‘an oblong buckle of rosebud in the]at the bottom of the medallion in a ’ Brat ic-ali bases sao er eoray cousin | erbverod tasaniag on cteot si “eaetiat even the tiger—all the Jungte in | bbon. £! PDC Leola anc lea tea tala FEN Ri Al eR eet tow Last Year 3 Styles , For THIRTY YEARS te Suntan !4n the front worn toward the side. of this sort was used to form an epaulet | 2 fact—have:been called upon to furnish HE beautiful garment , of white| bination with ermine or minever and B thal veldate with ieaions Mi ta triers Differ from This. Purity a : (@ashes are used as accessories of} for the drooping puffed sleeve, materials for the jungle girl's winter ii caracal and Russian sable, illus-| the white fur next the face is a de- iba! Makes athe Hane atinag? fil EMBY. way) thet! femibona are cuoe 2 gowns for eemi-formal occasions, and | Cravats of molesiin, ermine, ; chin-) coats, Miss Anna Morgan, daughter of trated, hangs in long and loose| cided improvement on the customary | coat which shows the fashionable mill-@ changing materially, Sti there aaa | [Because of their girlish suggestions are |chilla and all the soft flat furs aroenade | % J, Plerpont Morgan, is the proud own-| folds with the sable forming revers| untiecoming gray skin. The squirrel | tary effect which has even invaded the® la momachleg NOUNedaly. Antidun endeared to womankind. up into a variety of styles, They ar er of a jacket of tiger skin, made| which extend the full length of the| and ermine cape pictured has revers of| realm of fur, The coat is made with® |about your last year’s outfit. Your hat 5 particularly chic made of these furs cut | in dias strips, then tied in a four-in- to her order recently by a fashionable | coat, There are also a deep collar and] the white fur. The cape just covers| full vasques which have pointed appl New York furrler. Civet cat, leopard| cuffs of the sable. ‘Tho mvff Is of] tne shoulders, but the stole ends drop| cations of biack embroidered velvet a ‘and monkey skin make the very iatest | caracal and entirely without ornament.| 14 the kneo, where they are’ finished | intervals. There is a vest effect of th automobile garments,, and minever, = with little ermine tails, velvet which also forms the borders@ ermine, caracal, squirrel, moleskin MONG the newest furs in restora- - of the oversleeves and decorates th ‘and baby lamb the shorter and more fl ornamental blouse and bolero coats is a Httle too flat in the crown, and tt is trimmed a lttle too fussily. Then BROTHERS your hair {8 not arranged for it, for the new pompadours are much softer than the old ones. Again, your stock t not Just right, and you find you must ex- change your stiff lined one of last sea- ‘Belt Buckles ae and Long Chains eines or with one end overlapping the * J other, The latest thing in muffs te called the cuff muff, and is big and flat, with deep cuft-shaped pleces at the side. The cuff ND of the | latest fads in belt buckles, ‘and, in tact, Jewelry of every kind, ig the rage for white coral. It is ¢ion to favor !s monkey, which ‘ count 1 - | collar, fits in so charmingly, with its long NOTHDR beautiful equirrel gar-| collar. ment MNlustrated 1s a smart neck _ trimmed with bands of embrold-|} trend of fashion the pelt {tsel? will | and there is leopard skin with its fa- | selected for these lingerie effects. Point HE pretty old-fashioned embellish- , duchesse, 3 ment Known as’ "'s which Sered caracal, These bands form a| be all right. millar and proverblal spots, and there | lace in all {ts many variets ‘ = fy the new monkey coat’ with its |Mechlin, Herre and the finer examples thas not been used to any degree in ter, will. have’great vogue. much trimming in making up the ‘There is something very pleasing end) 4 smartest of the fur garments. Gestful about a tollet of one color and! Coats of baby lamb are trimmed with | \ g ; aroone { ot very expensive and ts most orna-| portion {s usually of contrasting fur,’ toy street wear, fringe-like halr, with the present droop, piece and one of the new pouch HE use of many ruffles of lace in? |son for a soft, pretty bit of neckwear, i ‘and becoming. ‘Red coral -has| particulanly if any is employed on the al ing lines of fashion. ‘This te seen to} Place an’ one ot it rush alls a is Lemay, rurae occas an can Roney © . { fashionable for the past two sea- | stole, eae ky the best advantage in the new long . ‘ with lace trimmings may be termed a first and fancy cord ornaments. gives them such an airy, dressy? | your last scason’s gown {s equatly rmrtss. Raw couipyerely cap “pied Pade herd | ft, only one has just a ¢iny, dot 4 1, she who | concomitants of winter, rather do theyé {small at the elbow, too fuil at the nar- “even for men ad eleeve links and | reaching to the knees in front. Rond-| the short-haired furs, for a collar and | POR the automobile girl, she who nt 0 @ nar some clasps or ornaments usually dec- Tesombling an ink spot where the) dornaps a ouff as well. Of course, govs in enthustastically for the | look Nke Mttle summer trifes. The? | rw suit. and not iinming aces, all ‘ ‘ong chains ot white coral beads wors | orate the fronts, tiny ermine tails appear on the other. | tnerg will be somo of the other black sport of “bubbling,” as the init!-| many Helle cape collars are ruffled | rong and not to your liking, And last, aroma the neck with white gowns will t The vogue for all things white 18/¢15 such es black fox, lynx, and| ated express it, it really would seem | With lace, the flowing, open sleeve hi but not. le your ekirt 18 too Cght >| $e ween frequently this winter. Lavish Trimming responaible for the introduction Of} mayne some of the cheaper pelts| as though tho most striking and re-| three or four, or in extreme cases pe about the hip | | Pure white, it ts eald, will be tens pop- On Fur G ANG which take a dyo well. Any andall of | markable of the furry skins were se- | ‘haps even more ruffles, and while laces | || king’? 4 lar this season than # thas been, but in Fur arments. |? =< these may be brought out and. worn! lected for this season's use. ‘There is | of somewhat coarse open merh te con Smocking 5 - y e, c! the correct hing r band . the off-color whites, mushroom and oys-|yT js quite the fad this year to use, @ fy quaint litle eton, pletured, show-| by the fashionable, and provided the | civet cat, which has bright yellow | sidered ac! ain. Ing tho new fur to advantage, is|cut be somewhat near the present | markings on a dark brown ground, | ings and appliques, the Mner sorts are Coming B ks faghe ogetior ore an Tare’ with| ‘kn’ evening gown of pale us lberty : . Ghe Tenuta Girl Will Reign Here This Winter. : very novel ip the one color embracing | lace and fanc; 1 , and Med golero effect on the blouse, and are! i 4 : ° } ‘several eae from light to dark. As a buttons are Shs ta tontania Padifeusy Sires in horlz@otal bands both on the |") HIS new Russian fur, caracal,| fringe-like hair, and if the girl de-| of Irish crochet are what tho best | many years, J coming back, It 1s aloe: rule three ,difrerent. fabrics] elaborate fur garments. upper part of the loose sleeves and the which {s seen in both Ulack and| sires to show that sho Is right up to/| furriers are using; and the girl who} | used on gowns of all descriptions am Ine white} though the latter 1s.a pro-| the last minute in style she will have | has Inherited laces from ‘her grand-@ | in all manner of fetching little ways. yokes for waists and skirts having curved or pointed outlines forming dla~ monds of the required aise, Any pilable, jtume, cbath,. velvet end] Perhi Qne of the strangest f wide cuffs. They also ornament the cos -¢ ‘ag? the ‘noting Ht Yel shapéd *muf. They are ombroidersd | nounced favorite, has caught on tre-| a gorgeous tiger rug across her knees | mother ot show them off to any$ i mac tire] when speeding along the city streets | better advantage than upon her furs Ip. pastel silks In an intricato flora} | mendously, «It Is used both for pe iaas PIT nen ILO toa