The evening world. Newspaper, November 14, 1903, Page 15

' _A «2 Page «9 of «¢ Fashi SORPRISING Ideas in Furs — The -Jungles Ransacked for Skins for bovely Woman’s Winter Coats—bavish Trimming on Fur Gar- ments—Fur Buttons ‘a New Crinkle—Many Attractive Novelties in This bine. NEVER Before Were Costumes So Pictur- esque and Charming —Quaint Features) that Carry Us Back} tothe Dear Old Grand- mothers’ Day—In the Accessories of Dress Are Many Novelties, ‘ASHIONS were never before #0 ‘picturasque and charming, and while all the new modes are really old ones, they are the chofcest and have not yet developed exaggerations, ‘There are many quaint features, and women who admire old-fashioned ef- feots can make themselves look very much like their grandmothers did when they were young. The extreme modes are like beautiful portraits taken in the early nineteenth century, and a revival of the Louis period is the color scheme of pale yel- low or straw color with pale blue and pink. For evening toilets this idea ie charmingly carried out in the soft pom- padour allks which in these delicate shades attains perfection. Evening Toilets Fre Theatrical. evening tollets some of the effects are positively theatrical, Not only are black and cliver spangled gowns o wean but entire costumes are made white or colored net covered with ulti of red, orange, blue, pink oF These are graded in many detollete néck “and one over the shoulder. ‘The ekirt; also of the taco, of the ¢ur falling the knees, a full rufie of the lace ith frou frou edges was eet on delow tabs. ‘With this costume was car large black Marabout feather fancy spangled gold sticks, only touch of color to the genie ee carhntl é E i fashion of wearing fur on even- gowns is becoming more and more fn vogue and beautiful models are shown made of white tulle trimmed with ‘white ewnnsdown, giving the snow-ball E Have a New Fad. NDW fad, originating with one of our leading society matrons, is to wear with different evening gowns ‘stable Ince sleeves of black or ‘These sleeves are made of very lace and cut in the latest fashion, draped or flowing as are angel sleeves. They are useful as well as ornamental for with a guimpe to correspond the ecollete gown may soon be trans- formed into a high-neck costume, and a plain gown changed into a very dressy one. Fancy jeweled pins fasten these sleeves to the gown under the shoulder trimming. A dainty girlish evening gown is of sun-plaited pink chiffon in shaded tints. ‘The darker tones toward the waist line of the bodice and skirt, and fading into a soft rose pink at the hem and low round neck where it ts edged with wreaths of pink roses. The very distinctive novelty of this gown is one that promises to be very popular ‘his season—the floral sash. This is formed of two long sush ents made of a lattice work of rose stalks and leav caught together here and there with ‘the pink roses. The effect is very pretty, springing from a deep waistband or girdle, hav- me an oblong buckle of rosebud in the centre of the back and a spray cluster in the front worn toward the side, Gashes are used as accessories of |gowns for sem!-formal occasions, and because of thelr girlish suggestions are ‘endeared to womankind. Belt Buckles ; and Long Chains. NB of the latest fads in belt buckles, and, in fact, jewelry of every kind, is the rage for white coral, It is imot very expensive and is most orna- |mental and becoming. Red coral has leon fashionable for the past two sea- | @ons in combs, chains, buckles, &c., but now white has completely captured the |iead, even for men as sleeve links and ‘Long chains of white coral beads worn sound the neck with white gowns will ‘Be seen frequently this winter. Pure white, {t 1s sald, will be less pop- wlar this season than { thas been, but the off-color whites, mushroom and oys- ter, will have great vogue. ‘There ix something very pleasing and restful about a tollet of one color and Very novel is the one color embracing @everal shades from Nght to dark. As a Tule there are three different fabrics in @ emant costume, cloth, velvet and ailk, and seach can we of a different tone, giving an agreeable variation, Browa, gray and red make up attract- LP Sager ively in this way, but the eelected tints should lend delicately one into the other, as a great difference in tone, which might produce a contrast, must be avoided. All shades of .red are in vogue, from blushing cherry tints to the richer darker shades ranging from dahlia to mine, mahogany, claret and cedar. For the house there ls nothing more charming than a red gown relieved with @ touch of black and white on the waist, ‘Red hats covered with shaded dahi- tas, or plaited ruchings of wine-col- ored tulle or sic are very smart. An evening wrap in the new brilliant coronation red ie decidedly modish and with a linine of pompadour brocade or fur is @ desirable moquisttion to any wardrobe. Cape collars may be added to give the required droop to the shoul- ders and these may be edged with either Russian applique, one of the new fiber braids or fur. H Street Gown of Tan Qloth. NE of the latest importations and 0 the subject of more admiration than {is usually allotted to one creation, was a tan cloth street gown trimmed with astrakhan fur dyed to match the color—just as if it were lace instead of fur. It was trimmed with pendants mado of astrakhan and silk braid, the exact shade of the cloth, and shaped Ike a three-leafed clover, each Jeaf being of the fur, outlined with the self-toned silk braid. They were.joined {n the centre with a knot of the silk braid from which two sil tassel ends depended. An evening gown of pale blue liberty medallions set on of blue astrakhan Outlined with fine silk cord,, which tle at the bottom of the medallion in a graceful tasseled bow-knot. A medallion of this sort was used to form an epaulet for the drooping puffed sleeve. Cravats of molesiin, ermine, ohin- chilla and all the soft flat furs are made up into a variety of styles. They are particularly chic made of these furs cut in blas strips, then tied in a four-in- other. ‘The latest thing in muffs s called the cuft muff, and Js big and fiat, with deo) cuff-shaped pieces at the side, The cul Portion is usually of contrasting fur, particulanly if any is employed on the atole, ‘These latter garments are flat and shoulder drooping in effect with tabs reaching to the knees in front. Hand- some clasps or ornaments usually dec- orate the fronts, Lavish Trimming On Fur Garments T tm quite the fad this year to us much trimming in making up th smartest of the fur garménts. Coats of baby lamb are ‘trimmed with lace and fancy galloons, and Jewelled buttons are also in demand for these elaborate fur garments. Perhaps ¢ of the strangest uses for tur this jon is the making of a prin cess gown of the unborn lamb which Closely: resembles @ panne «brocaded 725) fon able Sef gatin has an added charm given it by4 hand or with one end overlapping the | ile Caracal With doble Trimmings a I | is studded here and there with large cut crystal nailheads. Harging from this are chains of gunmetal with crye- tal beads at intervals and drops at the end of each chain cut in oval shape. ‘The chains graduate in length from the knees in front to the hips on the side, and the crystals are cut to sparkle like diamonds, Fur buttons, heads and talls can be used in giving @ new touch to a plain | wi cloth jacket. A coat of tan or brown covert cloth, tight fitting and trimmel down the front with buttons and talls of mink or buttons with brown slik cords, will bea ate sodiet, Chenfle tassels often ‘tthe place of fur tails when fur buttons, are used on coats, | Something Swagger for a Rainy Day. UCH swagger Wesigns as there are S to be found in a mackintosh now. | \days! The time when a woman considered “‘any old thing” good enough to wear in the rain has passed, and to- | day's rainy weather finds her looking as smart and well gowned as in the clearest | of surshine, Ono: extremely nobby mackintosh is a very pale gray almost white, or per- haps oyster, which 1s the best name for the shade, made in the form of a long straight coat, factenéd at the front velvet. Thies gown {s In course of con-|with square gunmetal buckles in a struction by a Fifth avenue modiste for | stylish art nouveau Wesign. Black velvet |@ social leader, I am told, “to create aj collar and cuffs and a gay silk lining furore at the Horse Show opening | finishes the swell rail coat, night.” It is to be absolutely plain and The woman who wants to look well all untrimmed from the neck to the foot|the time and in all her gowns must pro- and glove fitting, save for the girdle} vide herself with several lace yokes. She or stomacher, which is in itself an ex-/ must have one as large as a cape and treme novelty. The wastband is of gun-| which Is out rounding at the neck. This metal beads strung on fine wire and} is to throw over the shoulders of an 7 014 gown. Then a lace collar that does not quite reach the shoulders and Ghe Jungle Girl Will Reign Here This Winter. Bese et tearm ae ose hoawy lace, Mies ie eucheianey auredle Bir monkey, lynx, the noew|design, apd the applications are out-| garments and for trimming other furs} or the country roads in her vari- { Russian caracal, minever and| lined by narrow bands of black velvot| as in the Bton pictured. Moleskin and| colored machine. . 13" even the tgerall the jungte, im | ben. squirrel retain their hold on publ - 3) tow Last Year’s Styles S - vor, They are used largely : ABY lamb as soft and pliable a: . : fact—have been called upon to furnish 7 1m beautiful garment of white| bination with ermine or minover and Asa | valvet with iweleai’ tl tal aeina® Differ from This. materials for the jungle girl's wisiter caracal and Russian sable, ilus-} the white fur next the face is a de- med makes the tight-fitting fur, HBY ey that fashions are not coats. Miss Anna Morgan, daughter of trated, hangs in long and loose| cided improvement on the customary | coat which shows the fashtonable mili-< changing materially. Still there 1s something curiously antique er of a jacket of tiger skin, made| which extend tho full length of the! ana ermine cape pictured has revers of| realm of fur. The coat is made with {about your last year’s outfit, Your hat ‘her order recently by a fashionable| coat, There are also a deep collar and! the white fur. ‘The cape just covers] full tasques which have pointed app! is @ Uttle too flat in the crown, and it w York furrier, Civet cat, leopard} cuffs of the sable. The muff ts of! the shoulders, but the stole ends drop| cations of black embroldered velvet at@|is trimmed a little too fussily. Then and monkey skin make the very latest | caracal and entirely without ornament. | to the knee, where they are finished| intervals. ‘There {a a vest effect of the? |your hair is not arranged for it, for the 5 Ferpont Mongan, ls the proud own-| folds with the sable forming revers| untiecoming gray skin. The squirrel | tary effect which has even invaded the“ | @automodiie garments, and minever, = with lttle ermine talls, velvet which also forms the borders} pompadou ermine, caracal, squirrel, moleskin MONG tho nowest furs in restora- ot thal Sversleaven ana’ decorates: thee new : rs are much softer than Paden Auidibaclsigag - the old ones. Again, your stock t# not ‘and baby lamb the shorter and more tion to ¢avor is monkey, NOTHDR beautiful equirrel’ gar-| collar. ornamental blouse and bolero coats fits in so charmingly, with its long a sigs) a i © | Just right, and you find you must ex- ment Miustrated {s a amart nec! = @ | change your stiff lined one of last sea- | @ tor street wear, fringe-lke hair, with the present droop- | 3 ing linea of fashion, This is seen to the best advantage In the new long piece and one of the new pound} HE use of many ruffles of lace In? }son for a soft, pretty bit of neckwear, muffs, decorated with full-brush tails i all of the fur coats and wraps®|wizh lace trimmings INBVER may be termed ® frst! citomabile coats, with sealakin or| 4, fancy cord ornaments, gives thom such ‘an airy, dross Your last season's gown is equatly cousin to ermine, and looks lke | cyteskin, or some one or another of =) appearance that they hardly ace: ‘ike lunfortunate, for the sleeves are too $ It, only ono hag just a tiny dott i, short-haired furs, for a collar and | 7.OR the automobile girl, she who | concomitants of winter, rather do th ww, too fu | @resembiing an ink spot where the) ionepe o cuff as well. Of course, goes in enthusfastically for the | look like Kttle summer trifes. The ot tent enough at dhe tiny ermine talle appear on the other. i ° ol benesariil ele kee pa tolls Pare erutsien ¢ trimming seams all I there will be somo of the other biack sport of ‘“‘bubbling,"* as the initt. iy le cape 3 ra Rie UN atone dl gerne here | QThe vogue for all things white i8/ oi such as black fox, lynx, and| ated express it, it really would seem | With lace, the flowing, open sleeve hase {Gut not i your skirt Is too Gght >responathle for the introduction of) ivne gome of phe cheaper pelts| ag though ¢he most striking and re- | three or four, or In extreme cases pe about the | $ mmnover which take a dye Well. Any and all of | markable of the furry skins were se- | haps even more ruffles, and while lie. | | ing’? | = these may be brought out and worn | lected for this season's use. ‘There is | of Somewhat coarse open mosh is con < Smocking > g quaint Ittle eton, pictured, show-| by the fashionable, and provided the] civet cat, which has bright yellow /@ldered the correct thing for band: ~ H i fl Ing the now fur to advantage, 1s | cut be somewhat near the present | markings on a dark brown ground, | ings and appliques, the finer sorts are Coming Back Fgain. 4 trimmed with bands of embrotd-} trend of fashion the pelt itself will | and there is leopant skin with its fa- | selected for these Ungerle effects. Point HE pretty old-fashioned crabell eh @ered caracal, These bands form aj be all right. millar and proverbial spots, and there |lacé in all its many yarieties, duchess: T men ‘iknown as “smocking,” which @olero effect on the blouse, and are - is the new monkey coat * with its | Mechlin, llerre and the finer examples has not been used to any degree in many ye 8 coming back. It Is being 4 on gowns of all descriptions and n all manner of fetching little ways, upper part of the loose sleeves and the which 1s seen in both black and) sires to show that sho is right up to| furrlers are using; and the girl who $ used in horizontal bands both on the if HI6 new Russtan fur, caracal,| fringe-like hair, and tf the girl de-| of Irish crochet are what the best wide cuffs. They also ornament the) white, though the latter is a pro-| the last minute in style she will have | has inherited laces from her grand- Fad of Wearing prt justable bace Sleeves” with Different Gven= ing Gowns—Swagger Designs in Mackin=e toshes — Extremely Nobby Garments for Rainy Days. BYENING Toilets Are 7 Positively Theatri= cal—A Gown Covered * with Crystal Drops— - Wonderful - Colors = © The Points Wherein © This Vear’s and bast Vear’s Styles Differ— © Fashion Notes. soft material in silk and wool can be” charmingly trimmed with It. Emocking ‘s widely employed in com= nection with accordion or sun-plaiting, the plaits rising from a smocked yoke on ekirt, blouse or sleeve. a Ie t particularly dainty on “my lady's " negligee, which is not the ferportant subjest when 4 wardrobe is” to be considered. g Ono of the dantier of these it creations #0 dear to the feminine hess § is a beautiful shade of pale blue wit raised dots of m silvery white, dots give the marking for the emocked— yoke back and front on the SOON and sleeve capes. The gown iteelt ie oa very simple anu falls in straight lines | 1¢ is open down the entire front over petticoat of pale blue silk ¢rimmed lace to correspond to the edges of t negligee and very full fiona. The Winter }tats ; and Feathers. F MANNERS make the man, hats! doubtedly play a conspicuous part in-making the woman—for never tips | ot is season was the importance hat ‘so fuily realized. It has come | the stage now when a woman ¢ select a hat unless she is the gown ehe intends to combine the hat. ‘This precaution is taken not on account of the color, but to be tain of harmony of shape, as ‘owns demand a particular types of A gown with wide yoke and d shoulder trimming requires a wide The short-backed hat reigns, om gome are made with a brim that ie tonishingly wide at the aides end cut off directly in trout. ‘The trailing tendency te noted in feathers, flowers, ohiffon 4 and fur, all of which droop upon hair or geck. Fur will be worn a great deal as trimming, end the all-fur hat will more popular than ever before, The combination of que and wade makes a very fetching gold were two long ostrich f black, the other, white, with the pest thro the velvet a one the New Blouses HE new diouses are veritable umphs of the modiste’s skill = cunning. They are quite different from those worn last season, for they do not bulge in front end conceal little, if any, of the belt Some fitted with small darts to do away are daintily graceful, figure to advantage. ‘here is a strong tendency to draw, the belt up in the back, but the dip below the waist-! line in front has almost — disappeared. Late models in odd walsts run more to elaborate collars and belts than other — trimmings, and it {s in these little fim- lshing touches that the etyle lies, ‘There is @ hint of the coming invasion — of plaids in crush belts and four-ine hand ties in the gay Tartan patterns in silk, the buckles worn with thes Persian penne in @oftly bh ° colors and various bai to Seopond te the blouse will be, worn fancy buckles in dressier waists, white, re a es Oe ‘suede. tent Rnd. others thickly "studded ied wath steel “pall-heads or Jowels, ‘Ske much in evidence. Bizarre ‘notions in neckwear are one of the -inevitable consequences: fashion's present caprices. shaped muff, They are ombroldered| nounced favorite, has caught on tre-| a gorgeous tiger rug abroas her knees | mother cannot show them off to any? | yokes for waists and skirts havin) In paste! silks in an {ntricate floral| mendously, It {s used both for entire| when speeding along the city streets | better advantage than upon her furs ® | curved or pointed outiines forming dia PEDOSLESLODOODO9O9-G-09O$-9H9SHHHISH-HIHSOOHHGHOGHHP HHO | ronda of the required size. Any pliable,