The evening world. Newspaper, October 24, 1903, Page 5

an i Brea The Military G Frogs, Shoulder Straps and Epaulets Are the Latest Things for Fashionable Coslumes—Invisible Plaid Zibeline Is a New Parts: fan Idea—The dersey Lily Hat Is a Novelty—Opera Loats Made of the New. Fur. ORWARD! March! With shoulders squared under her tight-fitting oMcer’s tunic, gold Igce $4 brass ‘buttons gleaming, a jaunty Mapoleonic hat upon her head, the mill- tary girl has taken possession of Fifth @venue and ‘Broadway. G@he js fashion's Jatest favorite, Frogs, shoulder straps, and even epaulettes @forn her, for the great world of fash- fon seems to have been declared under martial law by the milliners and dress- makers who rule it. and to be truly gmart one must look as much as pos- gible like the pictures of Trilby clad in fhe discarded gendarme's tunic In which he first appeared to Little Billie. And the same idea ts found in the est millinery. Tho hats partake of the elosefitting order, and cnilitary plume are 4 to any other mode ‘of decora- @on. The emart costume illustrated is (m a dark-green broadcloth, relieved with broad black silk braids and brass bullet buttons. The high military stock collar {s of velvet, the coat fastening in dou- ble-breasted style, with braid loops in- | gtead of buttonholes, The full basques| @re slashed at the sides and back, and the entire garment {s bound with the silk raid. ‘The skirt is out in nine gores,,a of braid being applied to earn, fnd this fastened at the top with the ns, ‘This is finished with « telored vet binding at the hem. The white it turban ie in keeping with the sult, a smart military plume droopsrover towards the 5 «ffoty and gold is the ¢avorite( com) Qimation for military costumes. A Paris Idea. A Parisian ides which jotne’ the mifl- and the vogue for plaid te wvistble plaid stbeline. The coat is figure and decorated and a shallow shoul- sleeves are puffed @ flaring cuff of velvet decorated ‘The akirt is in plaited pan- cords being used to connect ‘The skirt ie cut to clear the ‘el! around and te sensibty bound bergeee iit Sf e a tary costume. ‘The strictly tatlor-mede girl leans to the seygrity of the broadcloth garment, tut those women who find tts absolute- ly unadorned outlines too trying choose the softer velvet matertal ‘The gown !Ilustrated, a walling cos- tume of black velvet with silic braid fn, drass for trim- good enoitel! Th it Sil & trienne- juit: « will prove is tight-fAtting: ami has the braid ming, oont applied a adlery and oufts Staided tn. black eilver, The skirt escapes the ground all around, has the braid in tadller effect on the front gore, nd plaits in each gore afford the neces- ry fulness jare at the foot. \ “Plaids. yor) the military «trl, she who giat- It Wi. beholder with a costume of <SUStied plaid ts held by drepsmakers be most. fashtonably attired. Browns and grays are the dominant ors of these materials, though black 4 brown in combination are ecen on By ny Swagger suite. A subdued pattern in mixed brown Mme. Judice.| gray is shown in the wooltex plaid | flustrated, to which braids are | led with excellent effect. The coat vee rather geep cape, witch stops | Royal Blue Albatross. Dear Mme. Judics ruptly just over the shoulder line on | have a royal blue albatross cloth sult Home Dress: Makins. , the Francis ‘of pale dive cloth, ing the plastron front, this being jecorated with Brandenburg cords with and am going to have it dyed black. "The coat blouses a lit- It has @ skirt shirred at the hips © into the belt, and the long basques | with four rows of shirring and four ‘o tight fiting at the bps and decor-| more rows lower down toward the Ned with, frogs of the brajd. ‘The skirt |knee. The Jacket 1s a box-plaited leas @ tablier front with gored sides and|atfonte Carlo with sailor collar. The ack, and simply Anished wien ee egn| coat reaches to the waist line, Could rk green velvet and without trimming |(you sugwest a way that it could be ot any kind. It Mlustratea the extreme | made’ over in order to look like a dif- jeimplicity of the season's walking hats | ferent dress? I am 6 feet 4 incheg in ja marked contrast to the dress. Cre- height. M. B.C. Jations which this year are more elabor- late and costly than ever. \A Nowel Hat. A novelty originally designed for the » — |mtage, but which has already become a fed among society women, ts the Jersey Lily hat. Of billowy white chiffon with ruffies overlapping each other and cute Uitle rosettes perched there and’ there, the feature of the hat is the long plume which Is draped around the crown and falla far on the neck of the wearer. | Fur hats Jead all others, Bestdes chin- \onulias, ermine and mole skins are @ striking novelty known as oures blanc, {which is simply French for white bear, |fe used on the newest hats and opera jeoat Round tur: I should advise you to rip the entire Gress apart and the hem out of the foot of the skirt to allow for shrinking. 1f you do this before dyeing it will re- move all traces of shirrings, plaits, &c., and give you ample matertai for a triple- platted skirt and fancy snirt waist. 1 have sketched several pretty designs suitable for the waist, and which have appeared in this column. Any of these, trimmed with fancy braids, buttons or velvet, will give, you an entirely new dress, For a House Gown. Dear Mme. Judice: Wr are good materials for dainty housegowns for the winter? Will flannel waists be worn? i, B, Houses are usvally so well heated that ns of e thick white fur, which has a glistening surface like that|lghtweight'materlals are used in pref- @! panne velvet, with now and then an|erence to, heavier ones. Volle, crepe!) °° / 7 | = occusional kle, have trimmings of|S00ds albatross, nun's veiling and cash- | | qyite oetrich feathers in. Prince. ot| meres are appropr' avatinel ikotinee yenrl or crystal buttons will be a pretty Ine clisters or the simpler algrettes oaaltas ‘ additton, d ire “aieed. COALS ATO made ae the | Wil be worn quite @ good deal on ac- jew fur. “One wi ida. lining of | count of thelr warmth, and they can be For a Girl of Sixteen. ehinarilia ts a loose box garment, whoxe | made quite smart and dainty. | Where Dear Mme. Judice: aka Lae yell as the’ facing lighter woight material is desired an al- OW can I have a brown shirtwalst of the co coral pink flowers ond green leaves, hand embroldered ‘atross, poplin or voile is o ect. sult made so aa to give “Ir 4 i tered, on ¥ jhe white fur, A Renai sance Gown, A kn pa shore alspeye a ‘ pen Dear Mine, Judice: nee? out. I am sixteen New Coats. 3 renaissance still worn? I have a yearal old. “How: lonsceboud: my, alive a Other opera coats are fashvined en- i black renaissance gown made ov j be? 8. rely of white Irich or Russian Jace. | the net part of walch| | A gored skirt—flared at ths kn One of these, of @ striking Hmplre cuts |g torn in several places. Could 1 ap-| forai liao verry tos Gtteen ie gorse wy penored 8 Up Oke Wilte 4 plique the renalesance on ailk or crspe;—— = = - CaS Tit cc Wet ME Si sta aay edged with ermine, ‘rom which fell alge onine or would you adviee to stout figure, and for a_ girl of | three-quarter «ous aeart of lace edged! now net? 1 f jelther tucked, ed os Ince trimmed. |ohance also of a separate yoke of cluny / sixteen it should be above the new net he patiern ts about twelve A with ex inches wide at bottom of skirt, throe| YO omitted your figure proportions, go )Fios mate tran mrently to be worn) ankles, A plain shirt waist and bishos Aitlo ¢ 9 mae of the new] pointe tapering towa * t am{Eetanot sketch you a design. over slik, If you desire, for the treet, | sleeve, Is @ good Conien to bulld on and eures bi tre of Monte Carlo] s Re ia = + > Tha entire gown tucked in tiny chusters | trim for any figure. You will need lor gut and trimmed at wrist, facing and] a4 9g A Nl Ble al Street or Evening Wear.” orice trom the neck to a point ust | lines, so iy from ane neck to the bel eck Yrollery done wt: the] | wanes Wart: 1D. lel De u H bove the knees on the skirt, s in narrow Persian is between shi Jar Rams nroklery dane ws the) it tor « very grant affair, BJ. | UY inn & binck erepe do) rove the Knees or Matowed to nace ters of Mat tucks, oF have a collar with : Your reni née is quite in vogue an the dresa, not too faney, that can |the elbow and n ; Reger ene ‘ Pita a Russian pony is the latest to yield Ita! wi he very effective, appliqued’ inty shine Areas, not tewet and evening:|ond Aniahed with broad flat tucks will/a stole effect of the wide Persian band elt to furnish the fashionable Outo RIP) ie de Pa mehis hanoetty Into} | M profer a neparate yoke, as I do| be effective, Have the spaces far enough | Ing on the shirt front, with the bar With a comfortable coat. In the flys ean ls nower than net | T WOUm Pithe dress entirely black, Am| spart on sane party of the gown to have extending from collar to cuffs oi Rration ft Is seen ln white with Alaska : 5 feet 4 inches tall and slender, How) band of the eluny lace and in a sleave, 4 wn th a shoulder, #¢ Hh unit on pable.colln= and cuffs, while.small strips] A\Pretty Ball Dress, can T make a. cont and honnet for my! point, samo longth as (he tucks. Wash! i 0 poey -@f this: latter fur aro so pla as to] Dear Mnvie. Judie: tworahd-a-half-year old girl baby out wf satin In gasoline a » not rinse . Ghgerst 's plasiron front, The cout! 7 ASK advice ax to how to mako a batt | of a sictrt of cream white heavy satin. lout, but hang to dry in open alt wnite|To Lengthen a Skirt. both back and front and "ta ptens tin sand what kind of goo. slightly so What warm lining shall anton flannel is good an interlin- | Dear ec. Judice ‘ uble-breasted syle at the left ss use. 1 wish something not too ex-| 1 get and how can Ing. 1 would advi buy a pen ‘OW cun 1 long y h 0 ex B cs ‘with iandsome pear! buttons having pensive, I am cighteen yerrs old, & 4 HSH! pattern: for the bonnet a pat, and! thirty-five tne thirty-ctg! fe YGLT z plond.and elim. Mrs, A, Mi combine cluny taco with your) » beaver (7 ae ing on the hes? It is a flare skirt, ha role. and’ the Mating. {0 ing Three folds around tia’ bottom ‘fo: Pale biue or white voile, crepe or’ bia-k ‘ope turned up or down as sults tho badge fancy;-of the wearer, lalbatross cloth make pretty ball gowha yet nor wo fancy. the collar and clita of, he cdl ay Wl it wil! bo \ery elogant andl cape and fi of ‘This will give you nt bonnet qnd deep | apart, 1 hav X a goods and no hem, t rt way, Why foot near as you can and n the To b | la w At gth fo ty now 18 sO it cannot be lengthened tn ot olece down your sk. nree inches with any material as new goods to hide it and the & 18 Lops. MA put ist o Remodel a Coat. Mine. I cannot matoh It. There ts M. M, RL at the match it in color and then set your three folds skirt® one over the other What ts the right esses should be? I am inches tall. B.C tall enough to wear y ankles, but tho of sixteon {s just to the) Judice Rt n coat gf royal blue! and tabs. Could [ {t to make it three- an the color be easily g00d8 would It re- | twenty-nine-inch ath? How my have a Russian Pon Auto Coat. VAUDEVILLE FOR NEXT WEEK. The New Bills Announced} PA a at the Continuous Bouses. The Aven of w Ia Belle Bl he star fe third Street ‘orbett, the rew monologue bill at Proctor The bill a Ferguson and } Ward and Curra Thatcher, wiit ‘Great Men, . and ot ror! ofte: ts in a {none Cush tyel of ake her Loulae Dreasor with new song the ventriloquiat Alexander Dowie 0, Duncan A.M. H You can easily ad4 a skirt to your) Eton mat Jacket ving you Ade | material will make a skirt to the kets, Gultan ot @ulu® if you are successful in| materia! quired depends on the width and one-halg yards of 4-inoh! The amount | 1 at the Eden IN BROOKLYN, George mn Robertson's comedy nd the vandeville list will be headed Impersonator. | 's n, ‘A figure’ of John cf has been added to the World in Wax' they are worn at ell, ame wonders, wilt’ thin place at Museo. flexible k company at Proctor’s Fifth e Theatre wi ill appear in a reviv “Our: nehe, Frootor’s r Bronson Howard’ Newark Theatre, Tony Pastor's will include, knockaboats;| Own. bre The Terrible, nodding plumes, com-! occasions. n, M,.Ayon a) Next Door,” will be the headiiners ¢ Circle. and other features will be . and . the phenomenal soprano. the minst: give hin Imoerson: ncenst and Presen her amme at Hurtig & Seamon's! ao, mo and Cur lan Burkhart! Ways popular, Ho! tent, Lf tertaining _ playlete, and A. into first steal comedy, * will be at the h prominent enter- will be Filfle Fay, in imitations.) Charles Bradshaw ‘in “Fix in a dway) | Again Coming to the’ Fore —Mrs Langtry’s Red Raincoat—Walking Skirts’ | dust Clear the Grotnd— Fashionable Bodices Have the Blouse Effect —-Bi% mine for Evening Wear. - T ja not an easy task, to select. the | fall costume this season, for 20. many styles and materials are in evidence, all equally attractive Be Possibly mibeline takes the lead’ me. popular fabric. .” pe But there are mielines and sihelingm Gome in light warps, :self-colot, = long hairs, while others have tiny, ple’ trasting spots. 1354 ‘The thick, soft sibeline, self-cotor,. # short fuery hairs lobks extremely when made up in one of the fashionable, atyles for walking: auits. cana) Broadcloths al always good cheiee for Dandsome e#treet costumes, as Velveta are ngain largely to the form ‘They are used in combination with: other materials, and also: ent}re ¢ob- tumes are made of this rich goods. ; j Velveteens naturally are found wham ever velvets are popular. ‘ ‘The day has gone by when, velreteem fs locked upon as an imitation fabetm, holding the same place to velvet that paste jewels do io the genulme articlem of rioh texture and Infactory dures ce rt walking euit velveteem a amarter and more fashionable mae | terial than velvet, though for oarnige! | or recegtion tol long, sweeping gowns made of vel Colors. Brown in various shades, ranging (rem fawn to chestnut, aeome the popular color for thie fall. « Dark blue, however, rune brown & clove second. Blacks are always good, and bright red 4s also seen in aufficient quantities vo xive color toa wintry landscape! 7 The scarlet silk raincoats intro@u at Wport last aumener and ed by Mra. Langtry recently in’ her play, ‘Mrs. Deering's Divdroe,” destined to have a certain vomue. smart women, ‘The cheapes: of these raincoats Comte, about $18, ine age ‘The short akirt in Paris oF cone) Is really @ short meirt reaching low the tops of oe ee kles, With us, however, the proper length for the walking costume ie just to clear tae ground ail around. Long sairts ate still averytaing excepting the walking @uit. ever., x Nine @ores ie the usual fulness: pu ii these akirts. wars They are made tight-fitting about: Ei hips, with the plate, if there are aay clorely stitched to, lle fat, Below the kree the fulness spteade out umbrella fashion gnd Kes op’ the for in front and at the aides as well | na at the back in the graceful Dut éa> | ceedingly diMcuilt at, x motion is concerned, which wae wih last winter. at Box Plaits. ‘The box-plaited skirt ia ore of prettiont seen. On some skires the pisits are only in the front and back. are plaited on each side of the | breadth, while mill others ae } all around. 5 ‘The shaped flounce. narrow, or Wil iy found on skirts of all materials. Some skirts are composed of Jounces’ either overlapping or ated Ly three or four inches with, | ming of fur or lace between. | Bias bands of velvet trim some 9 \ pleated skirte, Short coats are slowly bul surely pearing in greater nuinders among imported comumes, cing Modifications of the old bolero found; also @ short, straight coat made as neagy as possible itke the which acoompany sults of pajamas, _— ‘The seams are slit up at the and bound just lke the pajama are also cut th | Bodices. | ‘The bodices of fashiona’ |Mmost all made In the blouse effget, \bageing slightly at the back. es) ad ry few tight-fitting tacks gre eéam in the new gowns. ‘Trimmings in cape effects about shouklers are decidedly a fancy! of tie moment. \ i ‘Anything that gives the long drooping effect to the shoulder is, popular, (Lace ia more used than ever, and silk fringe is found on moat of the ime ported costumes, et ‘Hats still incline to the dat crown effects, though somewhat higher thas | taat season. | Teques are perhaps more taehlonabie | than any other shape for street wear Hats to mateh the color of the sows are considered the proper etyle tie eeason. . Some of the materia! of the sows i will be put) t randoah.’’ will be put can be used with good effect tn ed Other hate are made of fur, velvet @ ‘The Galnsborough, with high-po: crown. broad, curvag brim and ia Also used for Gieee Gathered tulle comb; on this Chenille hate in shacea tne OF Siam fashtonaole, : |\Gotens. Fe Evening gowns are mace of 30:3 SOM and light materials, Bs Plain eating, ooft sities, drosa deg ) velvets are all in demand, while laces, tulles and ehiffens Big Spangled gowns are alee stil! | able, Loote flowing effects for see, Tir s ee, a tical For the prac on ne Now silx-finished velveteené are made Meg and they are kenger and fuler the > x2 oe