The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 17, 1907, Page 11

The San Francisco Synday Call LATE O BE well gowned at the theater Or restaurant Is most essentisl these days, when so much tin is spent in public—that is, EOIug to the play and in Glnlng or supping restaurants. Much mere now pald to the gowas he theater, and 1n conse- e effect is far more brilllant wore enything that nt, without regard was appropriate or even is ult, all the same, file of women to be d wish. To hold one’s lap during the e is mot conducive of either the wearer yet unless one goea nce a hat and igatory in winter ts be worn, and style of gown. correct at @ be & dinner be- 3 pper afterward the f the costume. claborate are the so-cailed theater or the difference , 1t being cut , there would ing to 1 or theater entional design= tow e weist are im 5 These are i es of gray ar and pinks ars = ‘ a aps, not @ 3 the linings for t & for t make o and, indeed, it talke eve ¢ E t to obtain esired effect in many instances can be intensified or transformed hile most fasci- auve and blue or be accomplished eper or fainter who prefer the s the back- > or just & tone » that, as can well ble to get an point in e n materials n mind—they the pattern ce in yoke bodice of 1 sufficient be omitted style is w d Lace Gowns beer so long a time th rumors from £t n to the ef- will no longer rank as In spite of il the e influence of the distinctly notice- wns are most pop- the same exagger- fashion in either e been tried and oming that the o remain witl so conspicu ) B Shirt Waist Fancies MONG it weight linen. The ly handkerchief but not of the sheerest or lightest ¢ about the weight reall of men’'s handkerchiefs. de plaited, some back and others are plajted in the yoke, as st that opens g, being apt in the back. with large . with cuffs s have and a These nover cu re embroidered either colored thread hey r linen than the re- £ the waist. The collars which the waist are standing ce the cuffs, are made nen and hand-embroid- color is used for this em- half their depth f shee broit the bow tie is usually of silk matching in color. A nothe ost attractive style of waist which has just been put on the market for the spring is also of fairly weight handkerchief linen. It is in the front and is buttoned in a ruffie of the linen edged row lace borders either side of plait, reaching frem the belt The turnback cufls dered with a very shallow ruffie, as is the turnover collar. e waistcoat shirtwaists are more and ore prominent among the spring im- portations. In these a waistcoat, usu- 7 idered, is set at the side j fastens in front or is double- The =ame style of walst, modified, has not the waist- somewhat coat but a double breasted effect, all the way from the top to the beit. This is produced by the style of embroidery; that is, the waist is embroidered to simulate a double breasted waistcoat, with lapels at the top. The little ties which are shown for use with these shirtwaists are most at- tractive. They are some of them in the form of little bows made of satin, yather stocky, with short fat loops and pointed double ends. Bright colors, es- peciglly blues, Roman plaids and stripes and flowered ribbons are all used for this purpose, but the most re- cent fad of fashion along this line is for lttle bows of Quaker colored satin rays, grayish brown and slate color. hese are tremendously cbic with the durnover coliar. ROIDERED RS FASHIONS 7 THEATRE FEON-"TACT A > DAL~ IHNTACL o Z72c? IR N - CiC) @"1“=§!u, 7 MAU VE \JSATIN GOWN figure look more slender than ever, figured net, trimmed around the foot and often halfway up the skirt with bands of taffeta or satin ribbon, is a most charming model on princess lines, or with the ribbon put on in horizontal lines rather than the bayadere plan. To make the skirt hang well it is cut extremely wide and full, but the full- mness is put in weil below the hips, so that there shall not be even half an inch of unnecessary width around thz hips. As may readily be understood, this it not an easy problem to solve, but then the dressmaker's art is today so well developed that any modiste worthy of the name can make an ef- fective design becoming alike to th stout or slender figure, to the tall or the petite. While chiffon is too soft to be easlly embroidered, the nets that are so fashionable this year are many of them works of art in their elabor- ate hand embroidery. At present black and white affects are much in vogue, especially in light, transparent textures, as lace, net, gauze and chiffon. Black chiffon elaborately mede up with lace, jet and embroidery and lald over a foundation of satin or LR A FEMININE FINERY IRST of all, because it s probably most useful to the greatest num- ber of women, is the new “bed box,” which has just been invented by & New York firm which devotes itself exclusively to turning out con- venient arrangements for the disposal of one’s wardrobe. The bed box is one of the most practical and useful things ever invented, especially for women -who live in small rooms or who for other reasons are obliged to make use of every inch of space for their clothes. The box is square and about hailf as deep as it 1s wide, which makes it just the right size to fit easily under a single iron or brass bed. It has four divisions, and four lids. Tt is sef on ball-bearifig rollers, so that a gentle push will send it whirling around and bring the desired compartmgnt to the edge of the bed, where it can be opened without pulling out the box. Every- ettt a0 silkkc makes & most serviceable dress and one that will look smart at all times. The black and white striped chiffons are still seen in great number, but have been lately superseded by the printed chiffons before mentioned. A black chiffon skirt may now be elabo- rately tucked, the white showing so distinetly between the tucks only serv- ing to lighten the gown. The bodice is relieved and made suitable for the evening by a collar and deep yoke of rich lace, while the sleeves are often wholly of lace and white chiffon, or again are of the black chiffon, embroi- dered with only a touch of lace at the elbow cuff. The embroidery on the gown may be entirely in black and white, but a touch of color or some gold and silver passementerie worked in is always in combination with piain black, Jet and jet embroldery and paillettes serve to make a black gown more noticeable, and for a handsome dress the conspicuous should always be striven for so long as it keeps within the limits of perfect taste. Satins, velvets and heavy silks ana brocades are now so genasrally worn at dinners, balls and the opera that, save _— body who has ever been forced to keep boxes for clothes under the bed will realize what a boon a box so easily handled would be. Generally, ordinary boxes- used in this. manner cause as much loss of temper to women as the ordinary collar button loss does to men. The box is also made very light In weight, which adds to its perfection. The framework s ot light wood, the sides and top being covered with flow- ered chintz. The sides are not solid, but have uprights of wood at intervals to keep them from sagging in. That part of the woodwork which shows is painted in enamel white. Altogether, the box is as attractive in appearance as it is convenient for use. OOTWEAR shows a tendency for going Into colors that is a little startling. It really looks as if every person with a claim to following the fashions would have to add to the other expenses of her toilette that of boots to' SEEN EMBROIDE RE D for the (heater and vestaurant, Yace gowns are seldom seen this winter. Then, too, Irish and valenciennes lace dresses arc being worn so mucH for summer luncheons and musicales that a distinct departure is nec ry. An all white lace gown, therefo no matter how intrinsically valuable, will not now attract the same attention as a far less handsome but more eflective gown of some other material. The black and white lace gowns, however, made up elaborately with ribbon, velvet, jet and hand embroidery, are now fashionable for the play or for dinner, supper and popular restaurant. Some gowns are of black lace of the very handsomest quality, made up over White or perhaps the palest tint procurable of blue, mauve, pink or green. Bl Jace made up on a foundation of white satin and chiffon shows up the lace to its best possible advantage, but black lace over black is rarely smart; it is too somber, and any light trimming seems to look out of place. A fine grade of broadcloth, or ladies’ cloth, can be, with clever handling, made an effective theater dress, but it is not an easy material to work with, as match each gown. A very fashjonable shop shows as a compromise in this di- rection a new red and black boot that would go well with most costumes. The lower part of the boot is of the red Russian leather, very dark and really a suade between brown and red. The up- pers are of black ooze The boot is a button one, heavy and meant for win- ter use or walking. / Boots, {n fact, seem rather to have supplanted the ties and other styles of low shoes which were so fashionable last winter for street wear. Perhaps the harvest of pneumonla, grip and kindred ills which followed that peril- ous fashion has taught even the mad- cap maldens who pursued it a lesson. One rarely sees nowadays what was so common a sight.a year ago, that is, a young woman wrapped in furs and vel- vets, with her head and face protected by heavy hat and veils, her hands bur- jed in a muft and, in fact, suitably at- tired for a cold, tery day with the exception of feet and ankles, which In 0naarpgp g o BLUE CHIFFON ' it is used so muen fn all styles of lunch- econ and reception costumes. However, with a waist composed almost entirely of lace and chiffon and the skirt simply made with lace or chiffon insertion to lighten it, there are many extremely smart cloth evening dresses. Naturally only the lightest and most delicats shades are suitable, for in the ecolor more even than in the material the gown may be kept wholly distinet from a rveception costume. The skirt may be made on the high girdle empire model, with loose.plait at the back, and the bedice is then of chiffon or net trimmed in some way with bands of embroidered cloth. If the gown is of a peculiarly light shade the lace may be dipped in the same color, collar and cuffs, however, being, a rule, left either white or cream. There are some new cloths with medallions or figures of silver or brocade that in the right colors are most effective. Jet Spangled Gowns Spangled net gowns are not really appropriate, but there are some most attractive jet spangled gowns that are R the thinnest of silk or lisle stockings and the lowest of ballroom pumps braved the wintry storm. Besides the red and black boots those of gray and black, tan and black, black and white, etc, are also fashlondbdle. The black and white bools have the uppers of white and the tan and black also have the lighter color for the tops, as do also the gray and black. There are most attractive boots also with the lower part of tan leather and the up- pers of the softest brownish gray ooze. In evening slippers and under shoes generally there is great varlety. Bronze slippers are very attractive, with em- broidery of bronze and gold beads across the toe. The pumps and slippers dare also made of ooze in all colors, and are trimmed with buckles, single roses, tiny wreaths of flowers and bead em- broidery. Ballroom slippers of satin and brocade are decorated with gold and silver ornaments, rhinestone buckles, colored jewel buckles and or- naments or little wreaths of flowess. AND Otk GOWN smart; they are quite elaborate in de sign and the jet is embroidered either on the finest net or lace. There is nothing especially novel about them, although the empire ones are novel as regards the lines and the way in which the trimming, or rather the pattern, follows the lines. The unlined small yoke and collar of white lace and the walte lace—real, not imitation—cuffs to match relieve the perhaps too soms ber effect. Liberty satin gowms are even smarter than the net and these have spangled embroidery. Gray is charming with the cut steel or silver beads and paillettes combined and with the trimming on the lace yoke as well as on the gown. There is quite 2 marked difference in skirts this season. Some are elabo- rately trimmed, others quite plain and with the only trimming on the gown on the waist. A liberty satin, black, mauve or gray, is excellent for this purpose, the skirt plain, and with span- gled embfoldery on the waist. or, as illustrated, with trimming on the skirt in outline design, and the waist as well. Mauve chiffon, combined with Nberty satin and with & small amount of IN THE FASHIONABLE SHOPS They are 2iso embroidered all over with pearls or gold sequins. O NE of the most fashionable acces- sories to bridesmaids’ costumes at present are the Alsatian bows for the halr. These are especially suitable for young girls, either for the occasions of weddings or for-evening functions. They are exceedingly dashing in ap- pearance and yet very simple, and are much more becoming to young girls than™ feather or algrette ornaments, while they are also newer though not more becoming ¢han the leaf or flower wreaths. The bow goes directly in front, a twisted piece'of the material going around the high colffure as a snood. The bows may be made elther of gauze sprinkled with c?lull. gold spangles, etc., of liberty in or velvet to match or contrast with the costume, or of cloth of gold or silver. The bow Is quite large and very jaunty. GOWNS spangled mauve embroidery on bands of the satin, makes a charmingly effee- tive gown, that is relieved only by the smellest of printed yokes and cellar of a cream lace. The coloring is soft and artistic and the materials employed are on the same order, so that If only <the right shade be chosen it is becom- iig to almost any woman. The inevitable black gown, as it is sometimes termed, is 2lways most use- ful for a theater or restaurant gown. and an endless variety of effects can be obtained with the different mate- rials that are now to be had. Soft. fabrics are first in favor, as stated, but there are heavier that also are fashionable ffon velvet has lost none of fts popularity A ost fascinating y r material is in the en yle, but as papels let Into the skirt below the hips. There is a narrow yoke of white lace bordered with straight bands of embroidered velvet. Below the yoke the material is draped just across the fashion that It gives t e material taken from under the arms to between th ders, where there is a fanc gold buckle from which fall the long folds of the velvet to the hem of the skirt The sleeves are quite small, shirred pufts, with embroldered cuffs, and just below the welvet flat lace cuffs to match the yoke. Colored chiffon velvet gowns are also popular for the theater and restaurant, and an odd shade of gray and a new cerise ara thought especially smart. A band of embroid- ery, Jace, trims the waist. or there yellow or gray be ths color, touch of cloth of gold or silv duced most cleverly. Some Midseason Frocks SHIONABLE medistes are now turning out the most useful and charming midseason frocks such as really would be usefyl to any Jroman. no matter what her station in life. These frocks seem to indicate that the fabrics which were fashionable last spring have met lost t r hold in the affections of the publie. Veilings, eoliennes and similar fabrics are being used for these little frocks, whose dls- tinctive point is thelr extrems simpileity. Plaids and Invisible checks and stripes as well as plain colors are used. The preference is for dark effects, the only variation of this idea being In the direction of the black and white, browp and white or blue and white materials. The frocks are made with skirts of round length, pleated or trimmed with tucks and without other trimmings than the folds of silk or embroldery that trim the waist. These ave not at all showy, but are put on in & tailored effect, the embroldery being in faet stitchery merely, something like hem stitching, brier stitch etc. The walsts are close fitting, fastened at ons side or .n the back. Over the basque lining the materfal Is put on In pleats or tucks. The waist is finished with a high standing collar and chemisette of lace tucked mousseline de soie, net, ete. sleeves are three-quarter, finished in satin or velvet, with a touch of is, a cuff or undersleeve like the emisette. The belt is an Inconspleu- ous affair of crushed, pleated or atftched silk matching the trimming of the frock. The idea of this style of frock seems to be to escape entirely from the over- picturesque, overtrimmed tashions which have rather prevailed this win- ter. It s very much like the frocks which were in vogue defors the crase for the empire and printess styles came in. It is neat, simple, becoming te al- most any figure, and somehow more in accord with the necessities of up-to- date existence than the more effective bug less generally becoming empire and princess styles. This midseason style of frock, however, may be made de- cidedly effective if that is what is de- sired by the use of materials of un- usual design. White and black striped voiles or white and gray voiles and eoliennes make up into mest striking costumes even when the style employed is one of simple lines and not much trimmed. The¢ waist usually has a shal- low yoke of lace, and beneath this & pointed chemisette reaching half way down the front of the waist. This lower portion is made of a different ™ al from the yoke. For instance f the yoke is made of lace the dependent chemisette may be made of guipure, or if the yoke be of guipure the chemisette might be tucked net Pla blue and green cheeked brown and tan and similar rich and quiet colorings are among those most popular for this style of frock. g O it S e vty > N]OST fetching are the lingeris M be voile, hats which a now being shown for children, but which may alse worn by Southern resort summer girls. They are not made of such heavy linen as those in vogue last year, and there will not be the same opportunity for utilizing centegpieces as there was then. The new hats are moderate in width of brim and length of crown. They are made of fine linen or batiste and trimmed with narrow Valencienn or guipure and with a little fine em- breidery. The brims are faced with pleated or gathered net and the favorite trimming is soft pink satin ribbon and huge pink roses. Thers are also hats in colored linen, especially in odd shades of blue with white embroidery. that are mest effective. Now is the time for young women who are claver with their needles to busy themselves in making a sufficient sortment of this beauteous headgear to last them through the summer, for there is little doubt that it will have all the pepular- ity of former seasons, besides which it is quite as expensive as it is dainty when bought ready made. B flower shops this winter have had & new feature of interest to housewiv This is the new way of keeping certain sorts of green thmgs without water or air. The piant usually used in this way is the wintergreen, a charmingly beautiful little plant either for a table centerpiece or to give a touch of the weeds te a drawing-roow Its dark green leaves and bright scariet berries have never before received proper appreciation. According to tha new method the wintergreen is new put fn the bottom of a glass globe, being planted in moss. It may be placed on a glass plate gnd covered with a glass globe. As no air cam get to the plan: it is preserved without watering. It is remarkable how bright the plant keeps under the glas: It 1s sald that violet plants can also be kept in this way. BIB sets from Paris, now being shown in the shops, are among the most exquisite examples of needlework that even that home of dainty things has sent out. There are undersheets, oversheets and coverlids, all of the meost exquisite linen, hemstitched and monogrammed in the most perfect style, “the coverlid being embroidered most delicately and perfectly finished with a ruffie having a vine embroidery and buttonholed edges. With these goes a heart-shaped pillow, also of the finest linen, with an embroidered ruffle and a fine embroidery matehing the coverlid around the outer edge of the heart. The pillow is not embroidered ia the middle, as this might hurt the seft baby check.