The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 15, 1906, Page 12

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. Yhe New Lingerle Shirt- ¥ nists and the Marvelous Sk 3 now, the Lovely Lace and Lin- $ zerie Hats, and the Beautiful $ iglet-Hued vus That Will 3 Porth to Bask in the Sun- pe of Easter Day. ¥ ALGUSTA PRESCOTT. ng back to the Jose- lors of the fabrics There is a preponder- . is harking b when the gay gowns were much T more novel beauty e = be the b v blouse or e al ghirt waist. Beauty and € e rule throughout the shirt waist and, insertion is iffies are gathered to the yoke and seams are hand eing blouses. g machine g, stitch by stitch, ster Shirt Wailsts. will never be n that it takes too A stitcher, em rn sewing mac ne, can easl- dozen p: lingerie a seamstress is making a by hand. The mere tucks 1s a terrible job, when es to the putting togeth- the stitching in of the il such work, the task seems - g f one has ae the v of the hed garment hand-made lingerie It was made of thin ie yoke and neck and in tucks and trimmed insertion. The tucks ow and the insertion not more f an inch wide, meaning an end- ) ount of work. At the throaf there were many rows of lace completed by a ny ldce edging. The sleeves were cut off below the elbow and finished with a group of tucks and several rows of, lace. The taste for hand embroidery has grown so that one can scarcely find a fashionable woman these days who does oot own from six to twenty of these laid needlework were n tomary to blouses, ¢ 1e was y waist of pale b wistari ts workeéd t buttone lery it. The mass of it and the great j bunches fairly the bust The ht down to the belt line. e back and the embrc had an unbroken sweep the whole waist was a plish reveled in front the caprice over and leaves reache Embroidering Your Waist Front. She who would have a nice waist may purchase something handsome in the silk waist line. A good selection would be a shell pink peau de sofe. The waist should be carefully fitted—in case it does not ex- tly fit when bough eleeves, which should fit perfegtly. Now for the embroiders In the fancy werk esiablishments they mark a shirt waist front em- broidery end the up-to-date shops.show some handsome patterns with great flowers outlined by big green leaves. The larger the pattern the better. And in size st cases the flowers are made life- and worked in the natural colors Upon a shell-pink peau de cygne waist or a walst of pink satin, or one of peau de sole, the favorite flower would be the chrysanthemum, which should be marked and worked with the utmost Three or four of the medium sized flowers will nearly cover the front of the waist, while the big trailing green leaves and the long stems chase each other, so to speak, over the waist and then down to the belt. The back is tucked, but not embroidered. Another favorite pattern is the Ameri- can beauty rose which is embroidered in a brilliant pink, or a deep red, upon the front of the blue shirt waist and the walst of dark red, also upon the white and the black waist. A great latitude is allowed by those who desire a contrast. The waist is handsomely finished with a shirred silk girdle to match the tone of the chrysanthemum flowers, or the flowers can be in sharply contrasting colors. Other flowers, much used in the em- broidery of the silk blouses of the sum- mer, ure the forget-me-nots, also the tiny white conventional flowers of the em- broiderer, for which no one seems to have a name, and there are countless gerani- ums, violets, pansies and other small but familiar flowers. The main idea is to make the flowers life-size and to choose as large a flower as good taste will allow. The best pattern for the shirt walst is that \which is full in the front and open in the back. This is the almest universal style of the lingerie blouse. The most de- sirable of the imported models are very full across the bust, though open in the back, while the front is embroidered or elaborately trimmed with lace and needle- work, embroidery and insertion. The Empire Styles. The walst that opeas down the back ze care ZHDY [Z/377 LACE AT TEPI7 Id7H TD LOF LITTLE VIR E057 TAPTG FEATIZES AN7Z, {5 HELATSZ is more youthful than the buttoned up walst, and it is likewise more decora- tive. One can get effects with the wide, smooth front than with the one that is broken by many buttons. The idea is a pretty one and one that is destined to live and to grow, even as it has lived and grown the past three seasons. The empire blouse is short in the ‘walist, very short, indeed, coming only Jjust a little below the bust line, where it meets the empire skirt. , This blouse is quite startling in its design, and, being an innovation, it looks odd to the eye. Imagine a shirt waist with a belt almost up in under your arms. To meke such a waist requires some art, particularly if one has learned to make the long-waisted variety. One pretty empire blouse was Just 12 inches long in the middle of the front. It was a mass of fine needlework and was beautifully finished with full puffed shoulders and empire slesves. Such & blouse might be very pretty, if ALL Y ZPK LT ZIHBECIZEY TAEIZD VT W FZUZE TEGHNS one were tall and slim, but the stout sisterhood will find it a Waterloo. The empire coats and skirts are be- ing adopted pretty generally. At first they looked rather cold, but one is be- coming accustomed to them. The em- pire coat with its long lines, sweeping away from its little short waist, is de- lightfully fresh in its appearance. The fashionable colors are coral, turquoise blue and a pretty shade of Josephine violet. The empire skirt is cut quite princess at the belt, coming up high 0o meet the short-waisted blouse and the swecping empire coat. There are plenty of women who do not take kindly to the empire styles, and they may be pardoned for not ad- miring them as they should. The truth of the matter is that the empire modes are sweeping in their changes, and there is no doubt that the woman who takes them up must do so in a very thorough manner. The empire woman must reform her whole wardrobe, and she must change, not only the style of her coat and her skirt, but also the style of her blouses and even of her neckwear. When it comes to her underclothing nothing will do of her old wardrobe. She must begin at the very ‘beginning and purchase new. The little short new Josephine models are as different as posgible from the long- waisted effects and one must reform throughout. J There are countless women who do not care to change thelr style of dress so completely. They would be glad to con- form to the empire lines If it could be done gradually and in .a way which would be merely that of adding a gar- ment.or two to one’'s wardrobe. And for these here come the pretty empire driving and automobile coats and the very neat empire house dresses, all in one piece, and the pretty flowered empire parasols and sashes, and the other small things of dress. Styles a Woman Needs, For a season at Saratoga, Atlantie City or any other summer resort, either inland or along shore, one needs six linens of varfous colors and made up in various ways. The light blue linen is anecessity —for the water. The way to make it this year is with gored top with inverted plaits inserted half way down the skirt to give 'a habit back effect. If-this is too difficult for the home dressmaker the entire skirt may be laid in little plaits meeting in the middle of the front. The Jacket should be short and very slightly fitted; the seams should be strapped with bands of blue linen with plenty of ma- chine stitching. There are women so up-to-date that they will not have machine stitching. They prefer the old-fashioned hand work and for these there are linen dresses that are the very helght and acme of pretti- ness. Take a white linen trimmed with hand embroldery, raised and padded so as to show handsome flowers upon the surface. This need not be stitched nor need there be any of the marks of the tallor-made about it. ‘Then take a pale green linen, one of the kind that will be worn this season. It is “ made with & blouse waist buttoning In the i 5 BT TER COLOBEY BATIITE ANZ LANY DBESSIS CL7O 4T TELGZZ 20777 TIVK BOSESs IR BT P o back. Across the front there are ap- pliques of white lace put on very carefully and, around the appliques, there is some handwork, and surrounding this there are French knots in pale green, white and black, put on to form a very pretty pat- tern. These are some of the most desir- able styles In the new hand-made linens. Batiste means almost anything this sea- son. There are dozens of batiste gowns in the heavy varieties as well as dozens in the softer grades of the material. So it may be taken for granted that batiste covers a very long line of goods all pretty and all desirable for summer dresses. The little pink figures upon a soft cream ground make up well particularly in wash pink silk. And here a woman finds abund- ant field for her ingenuity and for her taste, for there are countless pretty ways of making up these dresses. But the pret- tiest of all is the simple way, with cir- cular skirt, wide shirred girdle and lin- gerie waist or little bolero. In such a dress a woman can face a world of femin- ine critics. Gowns for the Easter Bride. In the midst of the buying for Easter comes the bridal note, for it is time to array the bride of spring. In this country there is a great deal of attention paid to the bride and her trousseau. But it may be a surprise to many to know that the bride is comparatively unnoticed here compared to the attention which is be- stowed upon her in England and in France. In London, particularly, the bride holds the very center of the stage. One firm in London makes nothing but trousseaus and is busy from season to season working upon the exquisite gar- ments for the bride of spring and fall. And in Paris there are three or four firms that do very little else. The making of the bride's lingerie and the designing of her gowns keep them occupied all the year with never a dull day In all the twelvemonth. The fashion papers of London are filled with accounts of what-the bride wears, and matrons and maids alike read, hoping to glean points for their own wardrobe. From a society column is gleaned the following describing a fashionable Lon- don wedding. The information may give the coming bride a hint as to what is smart in society: “The bride was dressed in a lovely gown composed entirely of white chiffon draped over the softest of satin mousseline, ex- quisitely worked and softened with tiny frills and puffings, the fullness of the skirt being gracefully held by a silver girdle finished ’l the ends with handsome tassels. The swathed bodice was almost entirely hidden by a beautiful bertha of point de gaze lace caught with a posey of white heather, myrtle and orange blos- som. The full court train was made of jvory picture satin, this also being entire- 1y veiled with chiffon, while straight from the shoulders to the end of the train fell a magnificent piece of point de gaze lace, the chiffon background admirably throw- ing up the beauty of the design. The tlara was of orange blossoms, and a tulle veil was worn. “The bridesmalds’ gowns were of pale ecru pin-spotted net, encrusted with gar- lands of pale blue Jouis Selze bows and } pink bebe roses broad blue satin ribbon beits and ends. A tiny maiden and a smart boy carried the train, the little girl be dressed in a frock to match those of the elder bridesmaids, but instead of a hat she wore a dainty Juliet white lace cap, with bunches of pale blue bows on either side, with a trelliswork of tiny bows round the edge. “The gifts of the bridegroom to the bridesmaids took the form of bouquets of pink roses and pearl and amethyst neck- laces, while the little girl train-bearer was made happy In the possession of a crystal and diamond pendant, and the small page, who wore a pale blue silk suit and cloak, was presented by the bride with mother- of-pear! and turquoise sleeve links. The Duchess of Marlborough's dress was ex- ceedingly handsome, being of the lovellest shade of golden brown velvet, made In & very picturesque fashion and softened with ecru Alencon lace. Over this was worn a long, handsome coat of golden brown silk, lined with the palest coral pink satin, while the long stole revers dis~ played some exquisite embroidery worked in silks and chenilles of varying tones of brown. The hat, of the same coloring. was ornamented with a magnificent brown feather, which shaded at the tip to the faintest pink. ‘“The traveling gown worn by the bride when she and the bridegroom left for their honeymoon was of pastel-blue cloth, the bodice being braided in a quaint de- sign, while the soft white linen cuffs and and were finished w collar were beautifully embroidered. The ~ bolero which was worn over the bodice was made with an inner waistcoat of white satin, the turndown collar of velves being softened with lace. With this was worn a cream felt hat, trimmed with sil- ver lace, pink roses and pale blue feath- ers, while the fluify blue chiffon neck ruffle and granny chiffon muff, the gift of the bride’s mother, gave a pleasant touch of warmth to the toilette.” So the day of the full blossoming of the Easter bat s at hand and a great ana glorious day it is. Never since the gala times of Josephine were the hats so gay, and never since a period long before wers they so elaborate. One might almast think a woman were to wear mo other article of apparel, so implicitly does she rely upon her head for her general ele- gance. And well may she, for the hats are beautiful, lovely, gorgeous—all adjectives fail in describing them—and they are be- coming. And these are statemen® which were rarely made of the ter hats of previous seasons. Et‘ Going up Fifth avenue the other day was Mrs. Grover Cleveland, former first lady of the White House, in & gown of duck gray, the softest thing you ever saw, lustrous and pliable, a Panama cloth of satin finish. The pipings wers white and the jacket was a delighttul lttle eton, piped with white and trimmed witn rows of Valenciennes lace. Her hat was a lovely ‘duck gray sailor, trimmed with shaded quills, and at the back there was a mass of white loops and ends, a great ' fluffy mass, which made the hat tip for- ward in the prettiest and Frenchiest man- ner possible. Frenchiness characterizes the hat of Easter. And one notices three peculiarly French traits, namely, the gay though harmonious colors, the fascinating shapes and the pretty chic tilt, or angle, at which the hat Is worn.