The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 8, 1906, Page 13

A Beautiful Little Summer Coats | Stlk Light Cloth, as ' Worn by Mrs. Longworth, Mrs. W. K. Vanderbilt Jr. and Other Pretty Young Leaders of Fashion—Polnters for the Woman Who Wants to Wear & Separate Jacket With Her spring Sult. MG 2L A PRESCOTT. C es the fa n her sp h some one suggests that »arate coat is f onable away she rushes to take neat little coat, on! to put on suit s now the a and, as is woman is sep- umber of be skirt, visible, although the as she came down the no petticoat atten- consider- altogether. better And so very with s lifted. Ma Kkirts y of the & his being a revival of an old ; to suffer, ty action later gow Fifth avenue blue deep 1d imag like the paper am or crease, d almost with- » foot. It was d up eld hig most e for tted enough pair n of Q contrary was a navy made with circular effect, the sides laid The skirt, which the foot, and slightly k, was lifted and, from peeped a silk y no less than six ch was lue, from very light to very d all finished with tiny cordings bhread put on so daintily that es were not weighed down by p The effect was very pretty deed, and very feminine. e petticoat was of the very fluffy while the boots were patent o Ty — S \!‘2‘?’, g R = — ) CUERANT PEV VOILE ITH CUERANT ELV BAWS al leathers, high in the heel, with tops of navy blue, embroidered in the self-same color. The Pretty Spring Coats. Mrs. Longworth, who came back from tour looking very charming, wore c other day a little shopping suit 2 quite mirrors the new spring yle for the contrasting coat and skirt. The skirt was a pavement gray, rather deeper than the usual tone of pavement, and the coat was a pale gray, one of those little separate coa are so pretty always, and which make the figure so youthful. This little separate coat can best be described as natty, for it makes the figure look neat around the waist and jaunty d it has the merit of always suiting the occasion. It can be worn with almost anything. The little spring coats are divided into three separate styles, all cqually sma The most popular is the little pony coat, which is short and straight t. The back is close-fitting e sometimes neat little side pockets, but the pony is generally cut thout pockets and is made with the ight front effect, unbroken by cross str lines. The pony coat is a little English coat and its trimming usually consists of braid put on in English fashion, run- ning straight up and down. Its lines are unbroken and the effect is that of making one taller. The most particular thing out the pony coat, from Dame Fashi point of view, is the length, which must be exact. |The coat must be just the right depth over the hips or the effect is spoiled. If too short 1t 100ks bobby; if too long, it is dowdy. To get it just right requires the prac- ticed eye n expert tailor. “Just over the hips” is the rule A very popular little coat is the sum- mer blazer. The blazer comes out new this year. This season it Is made with- out a collar and with a flat band ap- plied to the negk, tending down the front in rever fashion. The , coat is ehort, scarcely hip length, and it is cut away in the front so that it has no fastenings at all, being merely a little open front coat with sides flying. Still, in spite of its careless appearance, it is a smart litle coat and one that has the respect of those who aim to dress well Gertrude Vanderblit's Gowns. Miss Gertrude Vapderbilt, who is the leading debutante of the year, as well as soclety's richest girl, wears a little peach colored cloth blazer coat lined with pale pink silk. At the front there is a glimpse of a lingerie shirt waist in the most delicate lawn worn over a pink lining. Her skirt is a dark cloth one, a pretty little English tailored skirt—just the thing for trotting and for all street occasions. The material is very smooth as are all cloth models of spring. The Eton coat is one that must not be forgotten, for it is here to stay an- other season at least, and many of the new suits—Iin fact the majority of them —are cut in Eton fashion with the Eton more or less trimmed and the girdle matching the eton. This suit 1s almost necessary to the woman who dresses well, for it fills up a gap in her ward- robe and supplies her with a gown which can be put on when there is nothing else in view. Three little summer coats must be in every wardrobe and their colors and materials should be about the same. The material should be smooth and the shade should be light. Otherwise the choice is left to the wearer. And the coats ghould be in Eton cut, or in pony shape, or in the popular blazer effect. The best shades are peach, butter color, ' THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. TOTTEV ANV EJ‘TB]EOSVEPD PINK \WITH STEAWBEFEY FINK o] VELVET GIRVLE: cnamois, pearl, Atlice gray, tan and bis- cuit color. And the best material is a soft broadcloth or one of the novelties that approach broadcloth and give the same general effect. The rough goods seem, for the time being, to have gone out and everything points toward the smooth materials. Broadcloths, smooth faced serges, cash- meres and Panama cloth and all tne other soft smooth faced goods are here, while the rough goods seem to have stepped aside and invited the smooth ones to take their places. Smooth Materials of Spring. Serge, that friend of the traveling woman, ig very fashionable, but it is a serge that is smooth and not the rough, heavy serge, nor yet the coarse kind, but rather a soft stuff which greatly resembles cashmere in its qual- ity, yet which preserves all the durable propertles of serge itself. Checks are also fashionaMle, and here one comes to the new color schemes. A checked suit was made of blue and pink stripes upon a gray ground, giv- ing a very pretty tone. The sult, which was an Eton sult, was piped with green and there were little frillings of Valenciennes lace upon the Bton coat. The girdle was piped with green and trimmed with lace. = Checks were never quite as fashion- able as now, and the fear expressed by the leading dressmakers is that they will he overdone. They come in all grades of material and it 1s possible to get a check for a few cents which will make up prettily, wear well and present a very good appearance all the season through. In the silk taffetas and silk voiles they are very handsome and here they offer a really good investment, for they will clean, make over and come out as good as new. ‘When one comes to the best color for the checked gown one must. fall back upon one’s own taste. Upon Fifth avenue one sees a great number of black and white checks, and blue and i il white ones, with the blue and white in the majority. Again, on a pleasant day, therg are the pretty little coral checks and the very fascinating red and green effects, trimmed with green, and worn with a green and blue straw sailor hat. It is largely a matter of paying one's money and using one’s judgment. The Fancy Silk Coats. : In every wardrobe there must be a fancy silk coat. There are lovely coats that come with wide sleeves of three- quarter length, cut off at just the right point twixt wrist and elbow. And there are the most adaptable little silk coats with sleeves of wrist length, fin- ished very wide, and terminating in a broad velvet band trimmed with lace. The silk coat, while not a necessity, is very useful and pretty. It is not strictly a shopping coat, yet its uses are manifold. It is made easy to the figure and as such it is just the thing to wear over the soft frilly dresses which will not bear crushing, and it is the very coat to put on over the fluffy waists which are so much the fashion this spring and which are worn re- gardless of time, season or weather. It is a blessed thing that the summer materials clean well. Otherwise there would be trouble with the finance com- mittee, for gowns are light, coats are lighter, and the separate walists are the lightest of all. White is worn by the majority of women and the white goods are so easily soiled that they can be worn only & couple of times be- fore they must be put out to the cleaner for renovation. The summer woman is engaged in a hand-to-hand Struggle with her neighbors to see who shall wear the whitest and freshest of summer shirt waists and it has about reached the point that the best dressed woman of the summer is the one who shall wear the handsomest and freshest of lingerie ‘walists. The newest waists are made with running straight across the ) vl‘ 1}\ Y front from side seam to slde seam. Piece needlework is used for this pur- pose and the walsts are made up with the trimming running round and round instead of up and down. The effect is very pretty where there are openwork stripes through which the pretty lining can be seen. The wearing of the colored slip, or under lining, is almost universal. One can buy these slips, with elbow sleeves, ready made, in the stores, and in most places one can get them In either lawn or in silk. The favorite colors are flesh colored pink, pale blue and a pretty shade of corn color. The last makes the lacework look very rich and adds much to the apparent cost of the wals Fitting One’s Self for the Summer. If you are a society girl and are fit- ting yourself out for a pretty summer, be sure to invest in what are called the pretty things of summer and be careful that they match. There is some- thing about a match that is very charming. There is the fluffy lingerie waist with its pretty pale gold colored lining. Then comes the skirt of butter colored broad- cloth, made in plaited, circular or gath- ered effect. Finally there is the little BEton coat or the pony coat, made to match the skirt, and with it all there is a wrist bag, a parasol and a handker- chief, while the hat, which is a black straw, is trimmed with gold colored roses. The effect is light and summery, yet warm enough for any fine weather. The little separate coat fills in a chink these days, and it is worn for many occasions. One can do so very much with it. Suppose it to be a fash- fonable little cream broadcloth blazer coat with wide strappings of self-col- ored braid and stitchings of black. The lining 1s pale pink and the coat, which has no buttons, is trimmed with Such a seal brown, black, navy blue and dark green. And, if there is the shade of the coat,” then one pretty well equipped as to a runabout suit. Dame Fashion is quite generous this is year in that she allows her girls to dress pretty much as they please, pro- viding they are smartly attired. They must be dressed in the new materials cut In the new ways. But when it comes to the smaller matters of dress there is some latitude. Coats can be mixed up a trifle, skirts can be inter- changed, and, as for walsts, there is a wide field in which all handsome lin- gerle waists are equal favorites. There is a story told of a New York woman In this town who went shop- ping the other day to buy her summer wardrobe, She needed almost every- thing that a woman can need at the be- ginning of the season. Unfortunately, or fortunately—no one can tell which —she entered the store and went first to the shirt walst counter. At the close of the day she was still buying shirt waists, and though her money ‘was all gone, she had not stirred a step away from the walst department. “I can do without other things,” said she, “it I can have all the waists [ want.” And many women feel the same way. The Intricate French Waists. The matter of tubbing the walst is one over which woman is shedding many tears. Laundries have, for the most part, gone up in their prices and it is no unusual thing to find a bill of a dollar awaiting you for the washing of one single shirt waist. Nor is the line drawn at that. One handsome French waist was so intricate that it took a fine laundress a whole day to iron it, and after the ironing was done 4 lace mender went over it repairing any small rents in the lace. But this is one of the situations a woman has to meet and she must prepare for it early. Duck green is one of the fashionable colors of spring and this and currant red quite occupy the center of the stage in the summer calculations of many women. THey are good tones and they go_well with many other shades; so well, in fact, that one might base one's summer trousseau upon them. One of the prettiest suits of this month is bullt of duck-green Panama cloth made with a pony jacket effect, the only trimming being many and many a row of brald. The coat is cut off just at the hips and the back is closely” fitted while the front hangs straight. ». The “pony” in this case is semi-fitted even in the front and is so snug at the sides that it quite follows the line of the figure. The skirt is one of those plaited affairs of which one sees so many and which, while not novel, shows novel features this spring. The front was finished in panel effect, while, around the hips, there was a wide swirl of black silk braid put on very fiat and pressed into the cloth until it seemed a part of it Many of the pew bralds are used in W NV VE THE SLELVES SHOW THE L Arat Y 1N THE COATS OF THE JSEASON this manner, namely, by pressing into the cloth until they seem a part of the goods. No attempt i{s made to make the brald stand out. In fact, the richer and silkler and heavier the brald the more energetically is it pressed Into the goods. It makes the material look like a French pattern dress. and in many re- spects it is to be admired on this ac- count. A suit that was quite charming from its novelty was bullt upon empire lines. A skirt, quite plain, was worn with a high girdle, while over it was hooked a coat with an exceedingly short walst front and back. The coat had full elbow sleeves, while the wide flat belt securely girdled the coat higher up than the waistline originally goes by four inches. The coat, while not with- in the reach of the fat woman, was delightful upon the slender woman who ‘wore it. Just for the month the little separate coat is both comfortable and fashion- able. Its colors are new and it comes in every shade, thers being no limit to the hues in which it is bullt. This is a season of novelties and the number of these to be found in Dame Fortune's domain would surprise those Tt who have not followed the trend of the new fashions closely. Something new is continually cropping up and it taxes one’s brain and one’s purse to keep up with them. The elbow sleeves called for the long glove and gloves of elbow length are as numerous as the Each frock must have its pair of gloves with street dresses and for all occasions not strictly dress. Then one needs = pair of white gloves, elbow length, and to these must be added the gloves just the color of the gown, be the gown Allce blue, violet, heliotrope, coral or green, for kid comes in every shade. But the end of the noveities s not yet. The gloves are long and require support. Like one’s hose, they must be kept up, and here there is presented an oppore tunity for a new scheme in dress. A little garter-like attachment for slipping over the arm. It is made of elastie, precisely like the garter upon the lex, and over it is shirred a little satin ribbon. The name of the article is gartlet. “Gartlet” i8 & recently cofned word, aed it means a buckled velvet worn with long gloves above elbow. It is strongly advocated as well as evening wear, because the arm is bare, which is eold and ous in winter time, it keeps the covered with a long sleeve; morsover, the gartlet does away with any fear of & red elbow being visible. It also dresses up the arm. It is, in fact, a glove garter, doing the same kindly office for the glove that the garter did for the stocking be- fore the suspender drove it out of the