The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 25, 1906, Page 12

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. other thing. It gh when it co evening &n ices for lunch- y, there short sleeve will be below the elbow and a frill or with a stiff sleeve of sleeves for at the Cut off street suit is the broad- its style well and is un- denia cjegant. It is made up in deli- ¢ tones an is the suit that will be and at all times when h is appropriate. A Well Groomed Woman. well-dressed svoman walked the other day in a fur er short, a matty little Easter down 1t coat of sable avent bargains he clot ant in a and in w shade. Get k pink, a ades will arade, and they are all summer heavy, for leaving one one’s hands he spring w ppear, with a heavy dress on time to buy a bargain fur t ed fur. It can be worn some weeks yet and it has the ad- vanta of being ready for fall. You can wear a few times now and then put it to be brought out almost like new beginning of the cold weather, away, at The fur-lined coat will be worn next winter with the deep fur turn-over collar. The lining should be of one kind of fur end the collar of another. A very pretty combination Is the light gray lining and the dark brown fur collar. In price one can go the limit, for there come fur-lined cloaks at prices border- ing on the cheap, say, at twe: odd dol- lars, and, of course, one can go up into the hundr It is always a matter of one's purse and one's inclination to spend money. Many women belleve that some- thing pretty and not too elegant is bet- ter than a high priced article that musg be wern forever before one feels that one has had one’s money out of it. Practical Coats for Spring. Perhaps a more practical coat for spring is the heavy long straight cloth coat which can be worn some time yet and kept for driving and automobiling all summer. These long cloaks resemble the automobile cloaks of a few seasqns ago, exceot that they are a little more modern in cut. The shoulders are fuller, the collar is wider, the skirts are fuller end the bust sets snugger. The differ- \ Reczprro. ‘ Gonuin Fap: SAsrER _ ences are trifiing, yet ome notices them &t & glance. It is strange how the si;cs go out and how old fashioned one looks in the snug little coat of five years ago. If one s stlll thinking of furs—and women like to think of them at this sea- son because they are so cheap—there are suggestions to be made along the lines of the cheaper grades. Dame Fashion says that there are furs to worn in the mornings and others that are the thing for afternoon. riag “Qovelties for Spri The pretty imitations, the cheap grades, the barnyard calf, the pony skin and tire new furs generally, are those that are intended for morning. One can wear them with one's very plaln marketing dress. But for afterncon there are the sables, the chinchillas, the ermines and the handsomer furs which are brought out for wear with one's broadcloth, one's velvet anil one’s sillc dresses. It is a nice thing to save one's nice furs, those trimmed with lace and fringe and tails and with jeweled crnaments for nice wear, while for morning ons can put on one's clhiccp pleces, those Which one picked up on the bargain counter and which are for just such wear. The smart woman no longer dreams of making one fur coat, or one fur set, do for steady wear. She must have two or three. The new broadcloths are made up along quite simple lines. Many of them show the full skirt with two deep tucks, and this, with the verlest (rifle of braiding. is their only trimming. The iacket is fin- ished with short sleeves. wide stiff turn- back cuffs and a flat turnoyer collar, or with no collar at all. Thus working upon these lines it will be seen at once that the making of a &pring suit Is not such a very serious matter. If you are contempiating the buying of a sdit for early spring and early fall wear —for most women wear their suits more than one season—it s a very good thing to look at the new materials. Many of the new ones are just the old ones re- vived. But, on the other hand, a revival is a good thing. And you often find an old material turned into something very desirable after the manufacturers have worked upon it The Handsome New Suits. The new cashmeres arc lovely and par- ticularly are they admirable fn the deep blue and deep plum . ton hey come very good, too, in the ¢ rosewood h Ana, and violet. can get destrable in cashmeres and in s pur somethirng ve: the thinner on novelties and the mo noire a and thi s one notices m. ant and perhe striking of these 2 e old yet charmingly new th for they are thinner and more like they are brought out in the new and catchy shades. The manner of making these suits is one that t be left very much to one's individual taste. Many women like to fol- low the very new lines, so as to have one frock that Is strictly up to date. The modistes advise this course as being more saticfactory than that of clinging to the old_and staider lines, “We advise our patrons,” said a mo- diste, “to have ome pretty new suit of chiffon broadeloth, or taffeta, or moire or lightweight velvet for spring. This we make up with a certain few very distinctive points. cut the sleeves off below the elbow and finish thém with a very loose cuff under which the glove ca aily. roll. ““It the shade is London brown, or London gray, rocco red, we advise the taking of to the bootmaker so that he can mak gaitercttes. At the same time we advise the sending of a sample to a glovemaker so that he can dye the kid for a pair of gloves. These points absolutely insure the elegance of the turnout. A Big Muft for Spring. “At this time of year we add a muff and we ask that it be of the new shape. The latest muff is not the big pillow muff of the winter, but the round muff. It is very much the shane of a tambourine. 1t is flat and ecut circular. It is bor- dered with lace and with frills of chiffon and It is made of light fur or velvet It is a dainty trifle for spring wear. Of course there is a neck ruffle to match. This makes a handsome sult’ for nicer wear. “The length of the skirt depends upon one’s individual taste. Most of the new gowns for nice wear are made very long, with a tendency to touch the earth front and back and all around in the old- fashicred draggly manner. But of this point we let our patrons be their own judg it is not for us to dictate when both styles are worn. “We advise our pitrons to have a sec- ond frock to save the nice one and al- ways to keep two on the way. One frock is being freshened—and the freshening should be a weekly occurrence—while the other is being worn. Thus a woman can always lopK nice.”” it Is the littles of dress that will count this year. And many of the littles are decidedly expensive. The latest girdle Is a folded one with the folds turning down below the belt line and up above it. This makes a very neat finish. But it requires some little knack. The newest shirt waists are made of lace insertion put together in rows with tiny bands of point d'esprit sewed in between. One lovely walst was. of Val. lace insertion, not more than two inche¢ wide, sewed together in strips with & narrow strip of black point d'esprit be- tween the rows of Val. Jace: One ,waist, after it was all made up, had ‘a great flower of lace appliqued to the front. The flower, which was in fact, a whole rose bush, was laid upon the waist in such a way that it reached from the belt to the yoke, spreading out to each shoulder. It was applied to the waist with a buttonholing In fine black silk. This made a beautiful lingerie waist. No end of trouble was put upon it, but when it comes to handwork the woman of the sea- son is not considering herseif or her time at all. The New Separate Skirts. The most gorgeous of lingerie shirt waists are to be worn, and here again there comes a call for the separate skirt. But the separate skirt of to-day is quite difterent from that of a year ago. To-day it is separate, yet it matches the waist. ‘White broadcloth separate skirts are ‘worn, and they come in very neat models —circular, walking length and trimmed scarcely at all, or not sufficiently to rob them of their classic lines. One lovely separate white broadcloth skirt was made with many tucks; an- other had a deep flounce of taffeta upon the foot; & third was made with a flounce of broadeloth: another was tailored and trimméd with stitched bands. a separate butter colored the At the > one its firs use the domestic woman can possibly have for it. Yet its use is not so far to seek. There is a’dcmand these days for the white shirt waist trimmed with yellow lace, and there is a great demand for yel- low lace appliques and for panels of b ter colored lace and lace of lemon colo And with these walsts what prettler than the butter colored cloth skirt or the skirt of pale vellow cloth? Another separate skirt that is finding tavor is the onme of cloth of & light ecru, about the tome of natural linen This matches the torchon walsts nicely, and 2 ANEBEST TIGHT FLTrI/Ne THREE QUARTER Co4ar OF CHIFON BRoIDCL Or sk 1t goes well with a dark coat and a dark hat. It is quite smart for the street, and while it is light, it is not too dressy for afternoon wear. And here one might as well mention the latest fad of the smart set. This is for the wearing of the light cloth skirt and the dark coat. A skirt of cream serge is worn with a coat of sealskin and a hat of black velvet trimmed with plumes. Or one observes a skirt of Alice blue with a sable coat and a hat trimmed with fur tails. The muff matches either the hat or the coat. Dressier still is the skirt of pink broadcloth and the Persian lamb coat with the lamb muff, and the hat trimmed with a band of lamb and a tral ing feather. This s the latest fashion fad of soclety. Fortunately it is one which any woman with a light cloth skirt and a fur coat, or a dark coat of any kind, can follow. That is one beauty of the season's fads, that they are not costly. You can be right in style without spending much. ¥For the Week-End Party. The automobile has brought the country house close by. An hour in any direction and you find yourself at some hitherto Inaccessible spot to meet a party for the week end. In the auta there is a big grip filled with pretty things to wear. The country homes around New York are not necessarily elegant. Indeed, you ‘would be surprised to find how small, how primitive, how very cramped are many of the country homes about which you hear 8o much and which fancy leads you to paint as “palaces.” The gowns, on the contrary, are very women dres The accep color. 1t mu little Eton jacke! wide girdle to ¢ Eton. Of cougse 1 ent and b to match tk cuffs and lapeis. Then tl s a skirt which is snug on the hiy ather ~~sad in and prettily braided around the foot aps, if the figure will permit it is braiding around the waist and hips. great deal depends upen the figure know. This complet one of the prettiest of u dresses for a house party. CHILFON HITH DEEL FLOUNCES! But one needs a great many gowns that are far from being utility gowns. A lovely house party dress was modeled after one worn at a week end by Mrs. Root, wife of the Secretary of State. The dress was In hunter's green glace taffeta with a most brilllant finish. The trimmings were ecru lace of rather a pale tone. The elbow sleeves were ruffied with it: the corsage had a yoke of it and a jabot and the girdle was finished with it: in addition to this there was a wide French trimming on the skirt with touches of the ecru lace upon it in the shape of wheels, rosettes and pretty but- ton ornaments edged with lace. Gowns of the Cabinet. Another house .party dress was much admired. It was patterned after a gown worn not long ago by Mrs. Taft, wife of the Secretary of War. The dress, which was a very pretty shade of Alice blue crepe de chine, was made up with shir- rings and trimmings of peint d’Alencon lace and Valenciennes prettily combined. The skirt might be considered a plain one, for it has only four narrow flounces of crepe de chine and lace, while the waist was a modifled blouse, with round .neck and elbow ves prettily finished with lace ruffies and frills. This dress could be nicely copied in a pale blue ba- tiste, such as one picks up on the bargain counters for ten or twelve cents a yard. The prettiest materials are often the cheapest ones, for they drape the most readily and have not the awkwardness of the thicker fabrics, with more substance and body. Mrs. Cortelyou wore something quite new mnot long ago. Though all white, there were many noveltfes. The particu- lar points of the gown were the sleeves, which were immense at the shoulders and were finished with wide lace frills, while a wide band of lace was laid over the shoulder, hanging down in tabs front and back, each tab finished with a rosette of ribbon. The sleeves were elbow sleeves. At the front the waist was trimmed with a dozen lace tabs and each tab had its ribbon rosette. The foot of the skirt was also tabbed with lace, the tabs hanging down like fringe, and on every one there was a ribbon rosette. This made a pretty trimming and a not impossible one for the home dress- makers. The gown should not be too full, for it is a style that is best drawn rather closely around the figure.