The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 25, 1906, Page 10

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL \! n a very noticcable man- lin most at- , are decreed wear with the cy colored shirts, has kers, s are been ta- Quite still 1 will probably their garment quch in evidence to be popular throughout especially in a climate like Francisco, where the fog is an ex visitor. T ilor s customers who wear these up in the They are to r and.will fit - particular and very popular effect r's styles, eppecially in the td be maintained this year ack cuff, which has been 1| seasons and is the h seve turned out of New York ors s o are announced in the . r suits, one in partieular bow t the former ” French ion, said to SRS with Chavret of Parls, s y ble for the majority of t e g e nges through which these gar- . is to run extremely to the colors 1 designs, with the elios and in the lead. The t a four-in-hand has been decided on as the proper shape, al- . though one of the leading New York > = %" houses has ted on introducing a nov- osin four-in-hand of a width of : uarter inches. Large d colors are to be shirts, either with the wing, the high band or fold col- lar, which are still the predominating yle in gentlemen's neck linen. Ome of atures of the season is to be a com- ination of cravat, handkerchief and hos- fery in the same shades, generally in green. lavender, blue and other delicate colors and spme with polka dot effects. The latest departure in style of the fold collar, by the way, is one that-tends to add comfort to that plece of neck gear. The front of the outer fold is cut away in frcnt, thus admitting of the tying of 2 large four-in-hand. The style is one likely to be popular with men who like in their dress becomingness and sightli- when these attributes are not se- cured at the cest of comfort, An inspection of the patterns for the fancy walstcoats for the coming season brings out the fact that those to be worn with jacket suits are bolder in color and in design than in previous seasons. Remarking this fact The Haberdasher says that a dark flannel ground with a design In half-inch bars, to form a two and a half inch square, 1s not at all out of the way, and although reminiscent of horsecloths or army blankets, these flan- nel waistcoatings are not garish in effect, because the colors are for the most part judiciously chosen, so that, as they do not occasion any very violent contrasts, the general result is quiet. But one ef- fect cof this kind of thing, and of the wide advertising of cheap fancy waist- coats, has been to make a fancy waist- rrect extent, by the only th cut be t one tashion- ness her short waisted pronounced at matter, all 1\ coats, is the exposure r of the upper portion which is bullt higher for In some instances the wearer »p of his coat unbuttoned so crease the effect. Even in the t with the light waistcoat, the leaves th t as t trock co this | 7 A vy MANN Y4 i \\\ coat rather out of fashion for wearing with a frock ccat, a very natural conse- quence. . Naturally the showy walstcoat has an influence on the cravat and the imme- diate effect of the styles described is ex- pected to be the adoption of white and black knots, worn with a double collar, in conjunction with these garments. They are, in fact, much the best style with lounge suits; but there is a noticeable exception to this rule. A white Tatter- sall walstcoat, largely. patterned with black bars, is quite the most smast of all walstcoa’ The bars are of course not so heav but they form a good sized square. With a waistcoat like this (which can only be worn with a jacket) the cor- rect cravat is a self-colored knot, bright, and not too small. Much the most fav- ored color is a rich red, hotter than wine- red, but not quite scarlet in its shade. A London haberdasher has introduced a rather showy new Ascot tie. It is made of elther rich Spitalfields silk or of fou- lard, the nature of the design, oddly enough, being the same, though the ac- tual patterns differ. There is a suspicion that the Spitalfields design has been sug- gested 'by some kind of madder printed silk. The peculiarity of these cravat de- signs is the large size of the spots, and the great distance between them. The ground color, unbroken, is in either case generally a navy blue, a deep brown or a very handsome shade of green. The Spit- alfields silk used has a slight rep to it. The design is always an entanglement of two geometrical figures, one occluding the other, with a bright spot of some color in the middle. The colors of the figures themselves differ, but are bright. This cannot be called a particularly ar- tistic conception, especially as only a lit- TEHE PROPER FROCH So97 WrTE WALSF COAT EFFECT TR T TS ¢ ( FOR WELL DRESSED SomE oF THE DESIGAT. FRONT THE HABERDISHLER £\ tle bit of about two spots can show when the Ascot is tied up; but the.idea is the very latest rage at the West End, and al- though it has not gone very far, the men who are trying it are the men who know and who may be depended on in matters of mode. : Apparently the well dressed American s as determined as ever to break away from the annoyances of the stiff-bosomed THE Co7AwAEY Cod75 o TAHE SRRING ) AIN CFozLARS 7o Bx | BORN By rais Bxzs7r porss=o =7 shirt and to also create his own style in shirts for the coming season, notwith- standing the importers are striving to popularize European fashions. For this epring, if the present indications are cor- rect, and evidently they are gulding the haberdashers of New York, the popular #hirt will be of the neater effects In white grounds, with stripes or figures in color and self-patterns. In the line of hosiery the spring fashions will present a most attractive variety, of which the superfor and more preferred grades will be In belleck (iridescent), pale navy cadet, gun metals, myrtle. royal purple, mauve, vieux (oid) rose, deift, agate, clarets and helio shades. Grays and blues in graduated tones di- vide {ndorsement with the standard sta- ple lines. Tans and slates rank well. From certain quarters a pronounced call is heard for lace half-hose. drop stitch modéls and plated specialties. Basic solid colorings, llke red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet, are each in turn drawn upon in the construc- tion of college hoslery, on which brands pennant colors are conspicuous. Mosaic fronts are favorably regarded in high- class half-hose. Approving attention is directed toward mixed grounds, disclos- ing contrasting hand embroided figures. Jacquard checks and extracted polka dots, as well as Tartan plaids in diminu- tive tracings, command steady patron- age. The effort of several years to have the fancy handkerchief ‘ replace the plain ‘white linen appears. to have been futile and it is predicted that this vear, despite the attempt of several big establish- ments to enforce the objectionable style, one of ‘their tricks being the combination = cravat, handkerchief. hoslery affair re- ferred to above, the linen kerchief will be more in demand than ever before. The motor coat receives its share of con- sideration in the formulating of styles for this spring, by reason of the fact that motor car traveling is now part of a gentleman's pastime. The tallor has un- dertaken to make his patron distinctive E LATEST Z E DOTBLE BREASTED COAT DES/GY Fo from his chauffeur and in accomplishing this the former has Introduced the tweed coat or garmemts of flner quality. elt ting the greasy looking and tractive leather coats. The former fantastic shapes have also made way for the more agreeable omes, which permits the garment to be worn as an ordinary overcoat. Ol ONE OF THE PEOPLE By NCHOLAS NEMO. E was an offspring of the com- mon people and his name was Brown. While he was still too young to be consulted about it his parents had labeled him James K., soon reduced to Jim by daily wear and tear. Now, although James K. was of humble origin he was no common mor- tal in his ambitions and desires. From his earliest moments of consciousness he was determined that he would acquire wealth and fame far beyond the lot of or- ¢inary men. It wasn't that he wanted money for its own sake; no, indeed! None of us want money for any such vuigar reason as that. James K. had no desire to pile up his money in the cellar and sit up nights counting it, nor did he yearn to lock ft away in the safety deposit vault where moth and rust do not corrupt and no one, with a few exceptions, breaks in and steals, James K. soared far above such ba: utilitarian plans for the utilization of his wealth, when he should get it. He would employ it for the mental and moral and physical improvement of the humble peo- pie among whom he had been born. Of course, that was rather rough on the innocent humble _people, but he had to be born somewhere. James K. became in- fected with the germ of his idea in a Sunday-school book “that told”all about the lifc and surprising adventures of Wil- lie Tucker, who made $3,000,000 in ten years by being polite and saving all his pennies, and when he died of pneumonia contracted by rescuing an entire orphan asylum and three mounted policemen from drowning, left it all to be distrib- uted among little boys who never told les or stole apples. The book that James K. read didn't say anything about it, but it would be a safe bet that the commit- tee of distribution is still looking for some onc to take the money. The sad narrative of little Willie fired James K.'s youthful ambition and filled him with the desire to go forth and do more or less likewise. He, too, would ac- quire a fortune by some simple and in- _expensivé plan that would still leave him time to cultivate the gentler side of his nature; something, perhaps, like answer- ing advertisements in the newspapers for men and women to earn 325 a week by working three evenings in the week: oth- ers have done it, why can’t you, ete. He knew, as every one must by this time, that the common people are the backbone of the American- body politic, the bone and sinew of American society, the source of all that is good and the only influence that keeps American pure and uncontaminated by the corrup- tion and debauchery of effete Europe. He was also aware ‘thatgit Is the common people who pay the taxes and do the .heavy work of the warld. Having ob- served all these things, James K. made an agreement with himself that when he had accumulated a large. deep-chested Yortune he would do something to bring that backbone to the front so to speak. Of course, as long as we have wood and water it is necesgary to have some one to hew it and draw it, but he was deter- mined that their hard lot should be some- what ameliorated, even If he had to spend real money te do it. Contrary to what might have been ex- pected in such cases James K. did break out of the woods in the course of time and stumbled over a large roll of green- backs that was lying around waiting for some one to come along with a dray and lug it home. Time rolled on as has been its custom nce we forgot to.remember the cation table and had to stay In school and many changes—and h change—came to James K. No one would have recognized the erstwhile hum- ble but ambitious son of the soll whose sole’ equipment was a three-ply determin- atjon to help his suffering brothers, and an eye that could read the date on a silver dollar across the room and in another man’s pocket if th had seen the im- proved and remodeled James K. equipped with all the up date attachments of luxury. His w nd daughters could be counted on to occupy a place well toward the top of first column on the society page at least three- times a week and his name was sure to be down when- ever there was to be an extra large hand out for t relief of suffering—among :tm salaried f the varfous chart which he supp He had even had his name worked ove > J. Keepe-Browne. At this point it is in order to ask about the aspirations that i ned his youth- tul years. It is a s reientless regard for 3 chronicle, that when plain came merged into J. Keep aspirations to help tellow somehow lost 1 the s gotten that he people had ¢ o the most steadfast adher t theory t blood will tell. He wasn'y quite sure it would t but he was of the opinion that it was more or less impor- tant. ‘where or beaten at the never there was a strike any- the blue-blooded” favorite was wire in the Congressional handicap by the son of some obscure Hibernian immigrant or some other un- toward event happened to remind him that the worid was inhabited prineipally by people who couldn’t remember much farther back than their grandfathers, J Keepe-Browne would shake his ristom cratie head and comm: sadly on the in- solence of the lower orders. Not even a man who had rested for a eral generat back viag for sev- 4 have been more of a gentleman than J. Keepe, Of course th a sad tale and should not be treated lMghtly. but we sho Gl pause over it long enough te extract fmportant truth that the man who ! climbed from the bottom of the ladder hangs to the top round a whole lot tight- er than the man who was born up there. (Copyright, 1%6, ‘by Albert, Britt.)