The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 11, 1906, Page 12

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. = NS OMBRELLA TO MATCH A COLORED L0 Lo tle Checks, Thin Woolen ~ and Novelty Suitings Soon Take the Place of eavy Rough Stuffs for Win- v 1 t Cloth Dresses With © Mateh Are to Be Im- , y Fashignable in the Set—Washington Has Over the New Blue J K A\UGUSTA PRESCOTT. wing seasons dded she, “if New York gown ed fan foot—as though The coat was alght, one of the t fur set you of ermine are wearing white no eyes at all, and y soft and pretty, ne and the background pretty sure to find a fur and cloth must see one all in dull d black go well to- get matches t f the ermine. So one can » k or e, cream or tan, or e e ade with ermine., But, - he fur atches the fabric d the robin redbreast the streets these 0 by color alone, red, but is a de is one that is It is just the verry. And this is spring shades. Braided Cloth Gowns. ter ns forth into spring one reasing popularity of wear. Wide brai @ black cloth gown. There was a coral colored vest. Wide coral colored braid was the distinguishing feature of & gOWN! built of deep coral was black vest set in. are worn, and the are wonderfully va- ail kina: rimmings spri many pretty things, and we at there are many more to fol-: the spring is to_be a glorious at present one is concerned veen-season gown, the dress! do to wear mow and later on and in this category can be which §s never prettier dapted to general wear. me gowns upon the best shops, but the place to observe fine dressing restaurants, where women gather n. and at the hotels, where the assemble in the tearooms for 5 ng as it comes, one women o'clock tea and a bit of gossip. Here the new gowns are observed to their very best advantage. a few days ago a New York wom- ve a luncheon at a fashionable hotel r women from out of town. One was an English woman, who came glo- rious in royal blue velvet trimmed with black fur. She wore elbow sleeves and a modernized Gainsborough hat tipped far front. The second guest was a Pittsburg woman, clad, curiously enough, in steel- colored velvet, made immensely chic with a coat of very heavy black net, trimmed with steel colored satin The third guest wore a black velvet gown with a very long and very tight- HAT has happened?” I asked Susan, who had run in to see me on her ¢e way home from school, looking prettier and brighter than ever. “Has any great, good fortune come your way? Have you had & present from your fairy god- mother? I know you have just had a birthday, dear.” “Indeed I have. I am 16 and I feel awfully old. No, I haven’t heard from my fairy godmother, but father has in- creased my allowance, and mother says that from this time onward I am to buy my own clothes, as well as pay my other expenses.” Jeanie and Julia, who happened to be sitting with me, lifted their hands in dismay. “You poor Sue, you can never do it in the world, no matter how large your allowance is.” “Then I'll have to go in rags” re- plied Susan, “for father and miother say that they have thought of everything. If 1 spend all my money on the first day of the month I shall have no more until the next pay day. If I waste it A TRAMPING COAT oF 3 = \ A CGARNET - COLORED PONGER. FBRWiND « WEATHER. fitung coat set off by ermine furs, and the fourth wore a brilllant plum-colored broadcloth plentifully trimmed with black silk braid. Around her neck there hung a boa of red sable, and she carried a very large and very flat red sable muff. The Gown of the Hostess. These four gowns are quite typical of the season’s etyles, and would have formed a complete fashion and beauty show In themselves even without the hos- tess, who wore—to cap the climax and af- ford the one note needed for the lunch- eon—a marvelous gown of holly green vel- vet, with an embroidered waist in Per- sian. Her elbow sleeves were finished S00000 £ THE SCHOOL I am to be the sufferer. Mother says 80, And I know all about it. Last Feb- ruary I bought my Angora cat when my allowance came, and don’t you re- member, I had to trudge through the snow without car fare the whole of that month? I am forbldden either to bor- row or to complain. But really as I have a liberal allowance I ought to keep within it. I am satisfled. How- ever, I'd much rather mother should buy my clothes than leave it to me. I don't know the first thing about doing it economically and I hate the bother.” “I am in debt the whole living time,” sald Julla, “but I watch my opportuni- ty and when daddy is in a good humor I put my cheek against his and with my arms around his neck I tell him my woes. He pretends to scold and frown, but I kiss the frown away, and it ends by his sayin ‘Run along, little girl. Your old dad will help you out, of course!’ ‘Then he gives me plenty to pay up everything and begin all over again.” Susie laughed. “Well, my father isn't like that. He's the dearest father, but his character is like a rock, and he never yet has given me anything for kisses and coaxing. I should hate to bribe my N DI DO AIARIIEN, AR N0 000005 with lace sewed to a pair of Perslan cuffs; and In her hand she carried a big flat muff to ermine trimmed with two or three rows of little black tails. Her hat, which was made of green velvet, was lifted at one side, where it was caught with many nodding white and gold plumes, At another luncheon, held in the palm garden of a popular hotel, there were four seated at a table, and their gowns were selected to harmonize, one might drclare, for they went together so prettily. The colors were deep gold, mahogany brown, rosewood red and a bright and beautiful shade of Alice blue. The guest who wore the deep gold gown RPN WMW was clad from head to foot In a glossy gold colored cloth, which was made with & very long and wholly untrimmed skirt. There was a three-quarter coat, with full skirts and a very wide girdle of brown velvet. Litfle trimmings of sable com- pleted the yoke and’ the cuffs. The hat Was a dream {n brown velyet, with many short feathers, held in maé with a great, gold buckle, which was set in a brown chou. N The woman who wore the mahogany brown dress was In velvet, and her only ornaments were brown fur, of which she wore a great deal. - Her wide mink collar- ette was made with stole' ends, and her flat mink muff was caught around the neck with a brown ribbon, trimmed with talls. Her hat was a reddish krown, and her feathers.were black. This is a ple- ture gown. The plcture given to the casual observer may seem enormously expensive. But af- ter a little study one sees through it, so to speak, and very often one understands how it is made. “I can afford such a gown myself,” said a woman looking at a handsomely embroidered white cloth dress for the theater; and afford one she did, for she made {t herself. A Hamdsome White Cloth. The white cloth in question was a rath- er plain model, beautifully embroidered in mercerized gold silk and white silvered cotton. The waist was a pattern walst and the style was absolutely irreproach- able. As a finish there was a long coat heavily embroidered and trimmed with big sleeves, which were set into the coat something in the shape of angel sleeves, long and draped. There was a white hat trimmed with ermine and gold. This made one of the much admired all white suits of the present winter, the suits which are the admiration of all and the envy of those who do not ppssess them. A white cloth suit is an ‘excellent in- vestment, but, of course, it should not ‘be trimmed with filmy trimmings, ner with anything that cannot stantl the cleaner’s brush, but if simply made and plainly trimmed a white cloth will wear many seasons. It can be cleaned innumerable times and, if well planned, it can be slightly altered to keep in the mode. A lovely white embroidered dress which had been marked very high at one time was set out upon the reduced list, marked down to a reasonable figure. It was not injured in any way except that it was slightly soiled and the lace was a little torn. It had once been $300, but was marked down to $75. Its waist was a mass of handsome embroidery and the lace of the clbow sleeves was exquisite, white with roses embroidered in. The purchaser bought it, had it cleaned and mended and the white cloth gown will be one of the handsomest dresses at the Roosevelt wedding reception. The jewels will be corals and pearls, the new combination, and the furs will be pure white. Everything is belng done this season to make the figure look youthful. Slen- derness is absqlutely forced upon one and wide girdles of velvet are folded around the waist and fastened in the back to give the waist a very juvenile look Dress for a Dowager. It ‘does not follow that ome must be ridiculous, yet it often happens that a dowager can don a very youthful gown, or a very young coat, with very good ef- fect, as was seen in a recent instance. A dowager, one of the society leaders, possessing a coat of lilac colored cloth, determined to bring it up to date, for it was a little out of style, being a coat of the vintage of two seasons ago. Taking the lilac coat she had it lined throughout with white satin, which is the latest fashionable lining. Then, with the ald of some velvet, she trimmed the coat, put- ting a band of lilac around the long talls. With a band of deep lilac velvet, she put, a girdle around the waist, finishing it in front with four silver buttons. Then she outlined a yoke and a pair of elbow sleeves with the narrowest band of sable that could be cut. The result was a sur- prisingly pretty coat, to be worn with a skirt of the same calor, or with one of a deeper shade of llac. Some of the prettiest effects of the sea- son are obtained by using the pretty lace neckers, which come this year gorgeously fashioned. They are made of yellow lace, with ribbon interwoven, and they are fin- ished with a bow and with cravat ends arranged in remarkably pretty fashion An old waist can be made very smart by opening it down the fromt, so as to form a V-shaped neck. And into this V- shaped neck there can be set a wonder- ful pointed piece of lace made from the new Irish point, which can be obtained in convenient shape. A stock is attached to this and some ribbon,is run through the whale and tied in the front with plenty of lace sewed to the ribbon and tied into it. This makes a charming neck arrangement, and one which sets off the waist beautifully. They are using two and three kinds of lace for these neckers and one of the prettiest pieces for the neck was made with a big pointed plece of cream lace of the novelty order with a net ground with figures interworked. The stock was a still deeper shade of cream, while a band of tan-colored lace connected the two. There is still a fourth kind of lace, for there was a ribbon bow in the mid- dle of the front, with the ends trimmed with. Val lace. Half a dozen dainty neckers of this sort will cover a multi- tude of sins in the way of defective shirt waists. Dainty little checked sults aré coming IRL’S ALLOWANCE . | father in that way. don, Julia!” 1 beg your par- “Oh, never mind,” said Julia, dancing- out of the room. “I don't care what it is called, so long as I gain my point.” I sighed as I looked after her, for I saw breakers ahead. A girl brought up on that plane would never learn the value of money, nor any responsibility about its management. If she married she would probably exceed her income, involve her husband in debt, and have a more or less wretched home life. Jean had not spoken after her first exclamation. But she had something to say. “I never had an allowance. Now and then at holidays or birthdays papa or Aunt Jane gives me a bill or a gold plece, but mother does not think I need money. I ask for it when I want to buy candy or note paper, and I have car fare and luncheon money, of course, but I've never had an allowance. I envy you, Susan.” Most girls would agree with Jean. A girl who has a definite allowance promptly paid is a girl to be envied. She is more Independent than her friend who receives little sums as it may happen. She learns how to spend money. how to save it. and how to give it away, each lesson an all-important one. But she learns none of these valu- able lessons if she has an easy-going ather and mother, who permit her to e reckless and extravagant. One may be, reckless on a small sum as well as on a large. Whoever constantly ex- ceeds her income is extravagant, whet er she be 16 or 36, daughter or mothe: Every young girl should, if practica- ble, have an allowance. At first It should be very small, just sufficient to cover her little expenses. As she grows older, it should be annually in- creased. She should know what she is expected to do with it, and she should be trained never to spend next month's payment before it is put in her hands. A friend who successfully brought up a large family told me that her girls began to buy their own clothing when they were 12 years old. She went with them to the sheps, and taught them what to select, how much to buy and everything about the mysteries of pur- chasing, considering it as necessary a part of thelr education as anything they learned In school. After a little train- ing, she threw them on their own re- sources. If they made mistakes she told them not to be discouraged. .as It is recelved, A schoolgirl's allowance usually Is large enough to insure her a margin after she has bought her daily lunch- eons, pald her car fare and purchased pencils and paper, ribbons and pins, and the little luxuries that she cares for. There is the temptation to spend too much on sweets. Creams and caramels run away with money to an alarming extent. There are girls who never real- ize that ten dimes or twenty nickels or one hundred pennies make a dollar. They spend the little coins wastefully, and then wonder where the dollars have gone. An allowance should always cover a girl's charities. A certain por- tion of it should be laid aside as soon so that if there is some call for money In the King's Daughters’ Circle, or the Settlement, or in a poer family in the nelghborhood, the little pocketbook may have its fund set by to help along. . A thrifty girl will try to save a little each month for a rainy day. It is a g00d plan to have something left over and not to reach the very last cent be- fore the new allowance is paid. It is not a comfortable thing to be what is called “hard up.” ACopyright. 1906. by Joseph B. Bowles.) : COWNS oF DEEg iE ) YESTS S oR SAND COLOR/) to the fore for spring, and very neat they look after the plain colors of win- ter. The checks are for the most part in blue and white and in black and white and the trimming for them is braid. though one sees many of these suits trimmed with taffeta bands. Judging by a glance ahead at the im- portations thers will be many checked sults trimmed with very narrow red satin bands and with pipings and with tt little quillings and edgings to form a c st to the checked goods. Little of blue and white checks. rather v for any but early spring wear, are e mmed with tiny pipings of blue vel- vet. And little straight peny jackets, loose front and back and quite short, coming just over the hips, are trimmed with blue velvet cuffs and blue velvet revers. The woman who buys a pattern and does her own dressmaking has a wonder- ful chance this spring, for the checks are easy to fit and are delightfully soft to handle. They come in pretty goods of the most adaptable sort, quite warm yet looking springlike. They can be made short in the skirt, and very simply tucked and piped by way of trimming. A woman who does pretty much all of her own sewing, yet who keeps her place near the head of the soclal swim, has just purchased a tiny red and white check for spring wear. She is going to make up the skirt with a trimming of coral-colored braid around the foot, put on in a great sprawling pattern, some- thing like the swirls of the lstter S. Her coat wil be an Eton trimmed with braid and finished with coral taffeta revers and cuffs, and her hat is a coral-colored feit trimmed with black quills, the prettiest hat one could imagine for the purpose, which is that of a spring suit for gen- eral wear. Of course thers must be & deep red umbrella to carry with this and one of the very pretty and very popular coral-colored leather shopping bags trimmed with full gold. Mrs, Theodore Roosevelt, who usually dresses in plain blues and browns for the street, and in white for the house, has selected for spring wear a mixed blus suit with an invigjble line in white. There is a seven-eighths coat and a short skirt. Her hat is a blue hat of chenille with black feathers. In Washington they wear blue & great deal, and it may be said to be the color of the administration. Certainly it s a shade that is becoming to all and es- pecially to the dowager who dare not go into the purple tints. Reds should bde shunned by the woman who is no longer in her very first bloom With every gown nowadays there must be a hat, and this brings one to s series of very interesting questions. Of what shall the hat be made and how shall it be planned so that it will stand the er- deal of Easter. The question is a &if- ficult gne, but it can be answered by consult! the Easter catalogue and ad- vising with the Easter miliiners who have already made many preparations. “The Easter hat will be a gorgeous thing this year—as far as flowers are concerned,” said a famous Importer, “and we are trimming all hats with flowers so as to be In style Easter.” Easter might almost be termed a floral oceaslon, for the Easter hat blossoms out surrounded with blossoms and surmount- ed by floral tokens of the most wenderful kind. This season the flower display will be particularly fine, and, looking at the Easter hat preparations, one is tempted to wonder if there is to be any hat at all. All will be hidden under the marvelous flowers of the spring. It is generally taken for granted that Easter hats will be trimmed with flowers, and one looks for the ta violet, the soft pink spring blossoms, the branches of the apple and the cherry, rather than the full blown rose. But this year there Is a more generous assortment and one sees the big roses of summer and the great geraniums of August and the hig flowers that come still later la the year. Nor is this all, for the fruits of the gar- den have been called in to help out the floral display. and upon many of the hata there are marvels in the vegetable Nmg as well as rive fruits plucked from tree and bush. It is to be a very gay Baster season, and one must be prepared to fall in with Dame Fashion's moods.