The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 26, 1905, Page 7

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. ' THE ATIHSBIE (L MD ik AUI© COSTIAES hat to Wear if You ¥ Fasbionable vea | Automobile and | What to Wear if You Intend Go Afoot—How the Au- tomobile Contx Have Infiu- Dress and What Niee Are Wenring the Aute caced People Way in of Togs. DY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. ! en by it t fashions and affect ne g ome gocs other #ven| from an whict and g5 wherever had o 1oy the chill her for All Purposes. mome pose big Dutch and which stunning moc rther thap & suto goods for 1 pe ly & arly ere come furs jarly auto furs gned for this ver have tmen t are speci a probabl by for the whick sc 2nd wou scovered automobile essities. Furs for Walking and Motoring. all of these motor furs are FS the weman who is going in b g that does mot cost a grealt k them over with a view would do her evenings s from is wearing it r fur which etly for motor i exac of the moving ihe al colors. wa 8 v calf the red calf without aty made gowl One of Mre. Roosevelt's a long coat made of mu and soft and a pretty gr: mobile and other purpeses, are made with bigsilk” buttons or with big velvet bui- ton: Great bution melds are covered with silk, or with velvet, of exactly the shade of the fur, and are used to button the front, Again these covered with fur, mak- t down 1l Lut ing large fur ornaments which apswer as butfons. They trim the auto hats now with every {hing under the sun. But the fad of the moment is the band of fur which is put around the crown in sailor hat fashion At the side there i ened a big fur Sometin lace of the f . there is a stiff feather, or a Httle curling plumes, or, perhaps, a smiart ribbon bow with wired loops. ¢ thest for W a sty w DS that they will flatter A Woman's Dressing C lous are the things which one sees long the line of outdoor things and greatly do these Improve from day to day. Women were never half as smartly now, and never did they come 1 half as good taste : At a women's club the other day the fon turned upon the materials The club, which is de- ¢ of dress—a most unlque club) vay—was discussing colors s epplied to winter gowns and to the tyles of the winter. And here wero arious opinions as set down for fu- discussion and consideration. “That purple, plum, deep red and gar- are as fashionable as anything that be chosen. “Ihat the purples and dark reds, the y deep orchids and the clarets predom- in the Imparted gown designs. hat the best combinations are fn royal blue and deep garnet, and that these wo tones were particularly lovely used together in plaids or in suitings, and their rimmings. hat the empire styles are the best of nd that some of the smart- of the empire models can ssiecting aomething Fant is made upon very fash: e seen in the fmported automobile coats. tor wea front is straight and t (ight- “That the short empire walst is becom- There is one auto coal which Was PUr* geyng 1t ig buttoned all the way down ing to all figures and that the emplire X memver of the very smarl sne front with big silk buttons. coats, as made by the famous French g Is set for & eard party cl Many of the pew coats, both for auto- dressmakers, will become popular here, SOGEOGLLG I ISP 50508 ® { MILLI pes the variety of London mil- s so large that it is rather to pick on anything and say not & unjess 1 mention the xceedingly small hat, which is quite . past. The season started sized turbgns and togues, pow is for larger hats, La havte mode” both ovinces. at, says the October the Millinery Trade Review, the brim shortened at the back, Is very well and I have seen of them represented in the variou$ of trimmed models shown in the t End. Red is rather a favorite colop is hat, and it is generally worn bandeau at the back, giving a tilt to the brim. dome crowns are seiling very They are used with felt or beaver ms end sometimes with velvet. of the oderpte ght ot Beaver hats are still selling well in ready-to-wear styles for traveling and general wear, but there are plenty of them in the market, and the prices are considerably lower than last year. For cheap and medium trade they will prob- ably go well through the winter, but the best trade are taking to plain felts or velvets. In feathers, colored ostrich, both piain and shaded effects, are in good demand; large full tips used in ciusters of three in different tones are favored just now in preference to the long plumes. Giant wings and quills, both plain and fancy colors, made-up bird effects, Amazon coques and colored hackle plumes are all going well. Plumage toques are shown in o splendld assortment of shapes and combinations. Nicobar plumage Is used in a great many of the combinations. With natural gull the contrast is very ef- fective. 7 Shaded aigrettes of ostrich, osprey ana paradise are good property; they are generally made very large and are used both for hats and bonnets. ® ely to be a very judging from The season Is good one fox. flowers, present indications. In the West End they are showing a good many fur hats; sometimes the hat is made entirely of hat material, but more often it is used in combina- tion with cloth or velvet. As, for In- stance, a hat shown by Scott’s, of Bond street, which pas a long deep, crown of chinchilla and a brim of beaver satin cloth, two gray plumes held at the left front by a handsome large buckle of gilt and steel studded with emeralds, full back over the edge of the brim and a complete bandeau, is decorated at the back with puff rosettes of gray chiffon. This hat should be worn well forward. A great many of the hats this season are made with this-complete bandeau, which makes it necessary for the wearer to dress her hair on the top and with loose waving sides, This style of hairdressing seems to be very prevalent at the present time, and as the hats have been built to conform with the style, it is likely to last. oval not only for winter wear, but for spring. “That, with the empire cloak, whether an auto cloak or a walking cloak, there must be worn the tight fitting princess dress, which fits the figure and dees not make the waist look too big. And that all empire cloaks should be fastened with a very high belt of a color that con trasts slightly with the coat and matches the princess gown underneath. “Finally, that the automobile sleeve is the fashionable sleeve for the winter, be ing full, beautifully gathered at the shoul- der ‘and so arranged that it fits into the cuff, making a handsome finish for the hand.” The women's club, which meets once in two weeks to discuss dress, is preparing to talk upon the small things of winter dress, among which are the little fur hand bags; the handsome neck scarfs made of fur which are not wider than a man’s wide tle, yet which go around the neck and fasten under & clasp and finish the gown most beautifully; and the hand- some fur muffs which are made in widely different shapes this season and so ar- ranged that they make a handsome trim- ming, so to speak. for the gown. Glimpses of Fine Gowns, Mrs, Marshall Field, one of the most beautifully gowned women of the winter, is wearing the most exquisite French fashions in automobile togs, many of which are speciaily designed for walking purposes if one does not wish to ride. Notably among these is a dark pongee, e s sy AL FLE AL TOR WAL ATN QR DR/ 7N so neavy and ‘so glossy that one could hardly tell it from satin. The cloak matches th® skirt and with it there goes .a beautiful shoulderette of silver squir- rel and a muff as big as a platter and as flat—one of the very new semi-circular muffs, lined with satin to match. The silk rubber coats are very hand- some, and for those who walk they are extremely desirable. They are water- proof and if one buys a good_quality it is very difficult to distinguish® the cloak from a silk one, It is fitted, lired and trimmed with velvet and it is carried with costly furs. Being high in price and beau- tifully tallored, it is fitted to rank with the very nice articles of one’s wardrobe. The blue gowns are coming rapidly tc the fore again and the newest blua dresses are as loveély they can well be. Made in tailored style, of loyely dark blue cloth, cut in princess shape and worn with an empire cloak of blue, * vogue. they make as lovely a costume as one would want. If there is a novelty in dress this week it is in the princess, which is now made walking length. A very handsome prin- cess dress was fashioned of deep brown serge, smooth to the hand, and firm in texture. It was made with brown chiffon velvet trimmings, a gown fin :nough for reception wear almost. The aloak, for it was one of those dresses that must have a cloak to match, was a princess with the short walst and high silk belt, of & sort now so much the Such a dress can be worn on almost any occasion, for it is pecultarly ; and designed for nice as well as wear, New Tallor-Made Gowns. ‘The tailor-made princess Is also a nov- elty and one Is treated to a glimpse of tight-fitting princ hugging the as the glove hugs the hand, with full b and sweeping skirt lines—all snugly tallored and finished as a tailor finishes a tailor-made gown. One very handsome princess was stitch- cd and the seams werd strapped. though it was a cashmere gown and though the the figure lines were soft and almast fluffy. But it was tailor-made just the same and the tallor had finished the dress with the most approved stitchery. This is just a fad, which needs the test of time before one ean decide upon its merits. But one must pass along-to the nov- alties; for there is mo one who does not to know what is new in fashion's And in the novelties there is noth- ing more pronounced than the new belis which have grown wider and natrower at the same time, if one can digest such a double statement. The narrow belts are those that are fit- ted out in leather, or in canvas, for they wear canvas belts again—or in fur. They are cut wider in the back than in the front and there are trimmings upon them. One sees gold clasps’ stationed along these helts and one also seés some hand- some belt ornaments; there are also some very pretty chains which come for the trimming of the narrow belts. But the tashionable belt is the empire belt, which s the same width all the way around and {s clasped around the fig- ure right ahove the natural waist line. It can be worn very tight and it gives one the little slim figure. There is a belt which is bging made by the French dressmakers and it 1s one that is generally liked by the wo because it is always snug and always well fitted. It is a belt which is quite novel and one that is admired whenever it is worn. The foundation of this very novel belt is a plece of ribbon three yards long and three inches wide. TFor evening the width can be four inches and the shade a dellcate one; for daytime a black rib- bon Is best. A French dressmaker bought vards of orchid pink satin ribbon ke three four UL ZHN Cok sl AN D BROZEAN"/ AUVTOIMOBILE, inches wide for one of her patrons. This will make a belt which just fits the fig- ure. An Idea in Girdles. The rule for putting on the belt is as follows: ‘fake one end of the ribbon in the. hand and fasten it in the middle of the front of the walst lne. Now begin and wind tight- ly around the waist gradually making the belt wider and smoother until the right depth Is reached for a handsome girdle effect. Have at hand a pretty metal buckle and at the last winding slip the ribbon through the buckle. Fasten the end of the ribbon Invisibly at the side In such a manner that the buckle comes in the middle of the back. This gives a very youthful Sgure. Or the buckle can be arranged to come in the middle of the fromt A button girdle was one of the novel- ties worn at a card party recently. The girdle, which was made upon crinoline, stiffened and boued, was of forget-me- not blue silk. It fastened in the middle of the ba running around I, there was te tracery of forget- m e, however, was a little row of blue silk buttons made of covered button arranged along the upper edge of the girdle and along the lower edge, set slightly apart, and with button embroidered on top with a tiny forget-me-not flower with scarlet heart—the tinlest seed of red This was an exceedingly pretty each si thing. Passing to the boa girl one ean say that she is out in full force this winter and one sees many of her clam upon he thorgughfares these windy days. The boas are made of fur, of feathers, of ribben and of chiffon ruffles. The silk muslin boa to ma the costume is one of the prettiest of all things and next to it comes the boa which is a combination of slik, musiin, ehiffon, chenille and feathers, all combined in one lovely flat neck plece The greatest novelty in the boa line was seen at a reception the other day, where one of the pretty guests wors a girdle made of the same material as her boa, which was a mass of tiny rib- bon loops and silk rufles. The girdle was in gray to match the boa. And around the foot of the skirt there was a trimming three inches wide of the very*same stuff. It made as charming a trimming as one could desire and the costume, which was of itself a beauti- ful silver gray, had the Fremeh touch, which is so admirable in all things of dress. The season is an or staple styles rule and there is Httle that is freaky in dress. At the same time it is a season that is full of novel- ties and the well dressed woman can have an opportunity to achieve some- thing distinctive in dress should she de- sive to do so. odox one. The