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FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. fHE SAN HUMANITAR some ronts for the Woman With One Servant Simplicity Best in the Trousseau Too Many Young Women of Limited Means & y Cartoon on Ameriean Societv. Coll's Weekly Lingerie and the Needle. {E woman who has time s o o be - vi - ’ e gt ECTers . i 4 e aas wir Shects i sndiiotun: 5 How the Table Should be Sec—Teaching Maid to Wait on Table ) 1 eoaree, have better ma. _The quality of the lace chosen for lin- T i N e B Indulge in Lavish Expenditures 4 daintier work for a n if she invested that vear. She nsook, heavier ore durable than the French, ely, and by clever choice and ymings and a little hand with excellent fully dainty. arming un- a time it t very tion of tr ve a garment lities, yet be: and though for pushed into the background by the t cover, it has regained prestige. erest line of beading or veining of and lace holds the smart over the shoulder, and, indeed, r strap and bow of ribbon very take the place of shoulder 2 both chemise and corset cover. This is especially practicable, but origi- nated for that purpose the ribbon should- er strap has found a place upon many models intended for general wear. A delightful little corset cover is made ight around the top and held by n shoulder straps. It is fashioned fine French nainsook and made quite the softness of the material making oming fullness possible without bulki- arrow valenciennes insertion is inset vertically all around the cover at intervals of three or four inches, and at the top three bands of the lace run hori- zontally around the cover at intervals to those between the vertical lines. ng block effect 18 simple gerie trimmings has much to do with the success of the garment. Valenciennes is used more often than any other, but a =mall amount of one of tne good imita- tion valenclennes is infinitely preferable to a greater amount of the lace of coarse, cheap quality. If the maker cannot af- ford to buy much trimming let her make tiny hand tucks and herringbone stitch bear the brunt of the trimming, and let only a wee bit of lace bé used, but have that wee bit of good quality. Deep embroideries or combined embroid- ery and lace flouncing are made espe- clally for use In ecorset covers. They are made up full with no shaping save in the underarm seams and belt. * Some of these materials are coarse and florid, but oth- ers are really charming. They are as a rule made with machine-worked eyelets for ribbon set along under the scalloped edges, and some of the flouncing has a little lace frill set under the scallop edge. Shoulder straps formed of ribbon or of a narrow strip of embroidery insertion hold the cover over the shoulder, and beading forms a belt. A particularly pretty corset cover is fin- ished at the top in scalloped points, but- tonholed and with an open eyelet in the center of each point. Three rows of em- broidery eyelets are set around the walst below the point, and baby ribbon is run through these and -tied in little bows in front. Similar bows are set all the way down the front, and ribbon is fun through the beading belt and tied in front. A frill of dace softens the buttonholed points. Where Eiderdown Comes From. LTHOUGH it will present a lam- fllustration of man's inconsiderate cupidity, there could be no more interesting thing to the person -taking an extended and leisurely trip abroad than a visit to an elder duck farm. He will be ¢ o go far up along the ;, and particularly to of the euphonjous name, p, to see this unique sight, repay him. y have eider duck cause of the strict Norwegian law gives to i water fowl in its- wid ate; which became of great necessity, me years ago, the commercial ¢ol- tor of down and eggs having from me out of mind t such vast drains the species t the wild colonles become s0 diminished that the ex- wetion of the eider duck was a ques- ion of only a very short time. Then enterprising natives began domesticat- ng the fowl, which seems to have been sewhat easy matter. ° jardarjup Island, where the do- ation of the eider duck began, d where the principal duck farms are, Is about three-quarters of a mile in length, and is protected by a sea- k 1l along its coasts. This seawall is entable beau ted with small compartments, med by leaving out or removing tones at close intervals. These cavi- ties were left for the ducks to nest n. There are thousands of them, and at the nesting season not one can be found but will contain ‘the nest of an eider duck. Not only are those recep- acles full, but the fowls are occupy- ing every possible other -spot on the ground, on the wide window sills ot the farmhouse, on the roof, all over a wall of turf that surrounds the hou: In an old windmill, and thick as fii on every available spot on. the island or farm. A great many of the ducks in the compartments of the seawall will be wild on and these, at the approach of the visitor, will fly from their nests and join the drakes tossing on the waves outside, until the sup- posed danger is past. But the domesticated ducks are so tame that one can stroke them as they sit on their nests; this trust of theirs is beautiful to see, but it Is most shamefully abused, for as each one of these dyeks iays her eggs and plucks out her down from her breast to cover them, she is lifted off, and both eggs and down are removed. The despoiled duck patiently goes on laying, but this time she can lay but three eggs more. This is her limit, and the last three eggs are not taken from the nest, but the down i8. A third time she plicks herself to lMne her nest; this. exhausts her supply of down. But even this does not stop the down collector in his tobbery. He takes that last cov- ering, and as'the duck ecannot, or will not, hatch- her eggs without down, she summons her mate to her aid. This is by a plaintive ery, at the sound of which the otherwise indifferent drake hastens to her side, and plucks down from his own breast.to supply her needs. By Eleanor B. Clapp Copyright. 19%5. by A. S. Barnes & Co. HE mistresses of some households seem to imagine that because they are only able to afford “a girl for genera! housework™ it is impossible for her to wait on the table properly, no matter how light her duties may otherwise be. Now, when the family is small and the work not too heavy, one domestic, with a little aseistance from. the lady of the house, can easily do it all and yet find time to pass the viands correetly at din- ner. At breakfast or luncheon, unless guests are present, all that should be required of such a maid in the way of waliting is that she be llke "Sairy” In “David Harum,” who was for ‘‘bringing in and taking out,” leaving the family to do_thelr own passing. Now, it is not at all difficult to teach a servant to wait on table properly if one is only wmhl:‘! to take the requisite time and pains. st show the mald how to set the table as it should be dcne. Re- move the cloth that covers it between meals, fold this carefully, and put it away. Then cover the table with the Canton flannel or feit pad that should always be under the tablecloth to make it smooth and soft; next the cloth itself is put in place, care being taken to get it on straight. Impress also upon the maid that when she removes the cloth to put it away she must fold it in the original creases that were made by the Iro’n,matherwlse it will look mussy very quickly. \ - After the tablecloth is on, phg: a lace-edged, embroidered or hemstifehed centreplece exactly in the middie of the table. On this put a cut-glass bowl or low vase of flowers, a jardinierc, or even a fern or growing plant with the pot disgulsed by a pretty wrapping of crepe By Dr. Emelyn L. Coolidge Copyright, 1805, by A. 8. Barnes & Co. ie UMMER domplaimt,” or summer djarrhoea, is very common in young children, but fortunately we know how to handle tihe trouble, and the mortality’ is growing much less than 1t was a few years ago. This disease is reaily a poisoning which takes g‘lue throt the digestive or- gans. Therefors the first thing to do iu treating the trouble is to rid the sys- tem of the irritating matter. The Joun( mother m&yluh‘}ly do a t deal to help her baby before the octor arr soon as the diar- rhoea begins, stop all milk at once and give the baby a t oonful of castor oil. Instead of the milk H fiuel made of either barley or wheat ur, alternating rts. As the barley water in equal pa is loging a great deal of water thfough his frequent thin pas: . he must be given all the water to drink possible to make up the loss. A hm—teuwonfu’ of Hiquid peptonoids given in a little water or el In the ba ‘water, every two or three hours, 18 excellent. HOME REMEDIES If there s much vomiting with the di- arrboea, egg water will often be re- tained better than plain water, or, in- deed, dnything else. To make egg wa- :ar. stir the white of one egg into a i Sl -once called fts * paper, if no other floral decoration is available. Lay at onc end of the table before the head of the family a White linen carving cloth wheré the roast or principal dish of the meal is to be served. It is very pretty, as well as ex- tremely fashionable, to light the table with candles in tall silver or glass can- dlesticks. Either two or four of these can be used, placed dlagonally on the table about half way between the floral centreplece and the ‘“‘covers,” ag the in- dividual places are called. Dainty shades of silk. crepe paper or chiifon should cover the candles. Now, if guests are cxpected, tiny dishes of cut-glaes or silver—two or at most three for a, small table—one filled with olives, pickles or some relish, the second with salted almonds, and the third with checolates or bonbons, should he put upon the ta- ble. For a family dinner these arc usually omitted. Twvo silver or cut- glass salt cellars next go on the table, These should be of the open varlety; “ghakers” or “individuals’ are no long- er considered in good taste. Tiny silver pots, one of black and one of red pepper, are put on; but unless the meal Is to be strictly ep famille, neither the oll nor vinegar cruets or a carafe of water, as it i3 considered better taste to serve (hese latter articles from the sideboard. Now, let us consider ‘ place, or ‘‘cover,”. 10 u: Of course, to a great ex pends on the men! s u;ng-; ‘t'ilth::ée‘er;n‘;o'mh't' t two nary, i 8 [ Knlves—one” steéi-biaded, for the meat course—placed at the left of the piate, this. The baby may be glven a tea- spoonful of this every half hour, or, if he vomits all other food, he may. have two ounces of the €gg WALer every two hours. It will not sustain life indefl- nitely, but it will often tide the child over untfl more nourishing food can be borne. & When there is much fever or thers much blood or mucus in the stools, it well to frrigate the bowels, ‘I'his treat- ment will often help to bring down ;.:: fever. 1f he. ah-mdgcwr l:rl“n trained nurse should. 3 for the first time; but if mother s 100 (:l’-‘;nwuy dta;:l;tfln‘ )“-m help in o it _herself. > time, may TR chil DeE Sadheiay: wieh, T uable in time of need..’ ‘cath it be a Vi long one and have a Role at the .’u!m!‘.ummm he fountain should mhfill-d wl'{hl. uart of w: water, w has been 4.03.3 cooled. it to a tel or clams are to “the extreme right beyond the knives. tumbler, for water, is put in front of the plate, and it wine or mineral water is_used, naturally glasses for these bev- erages are put beside the tumbler. Des- sert spoons and forks are mnot pl on the table until they are rea; be used, but wi has to be consi on the tablé, E 4 either side a8 was once are not now put at table, but are oyster fork-if oystel be served—placed. at of the plate, tions are only in accordance with he way they bave always Mved. To be sure, the wedding day s too dear a time to every young heart not to have special preparation. All the things dear to & bride should be tenderly gath- The “things” should be new; and they should be dainty apd sweet—just Mke their owner. ing at it in its true light, so foolishly out of place as faney, ex- pensive lingerie, in lavish quantities, ln the wardrobe of a bride of It is a fact to be lamented that the majority of young women are In this class. which sees nothin a display as can possibly be Not mentioning it as a matter of good taste, would it not be more practical, if the bride has laid away a few hundred dollars, to spend it upon some furnish- ing for the mew home—something that both can enjoy together in comfort and sweet peace when trousseau furbelows are long ago worn out? Bat, you say, your fiance is a man of means and can give you at the start all you e¢duld pos- sidly wish for in your home. our trousseau be @ your past living, foi can deck you in fine clothes afterward, let him do so to his heart's content. But in the name of all that's practical, mod- est and tasteful, when you come to the one man in the world, come as your own true self, decked in clothes pretty and neat and new, but not costing one penny beyond what you ean afford. A word to the wise: The neater and sweeter you are, the more you show fo this one man in the world that your great happiness i{n this wedding day ls that you are coming unto your owm, that you are coming fo him, the happier he will be and the more will he devote his heart and life to you. ID you ever noticé how some young women prepare for thelr wedding —young women of imited means? Yes, you have been taken, some time or other, into the room where these ;ge'.;suru are stored, much ado to drawers and closets full of lace and muslin finery, and to a big chest of shoes and hats and negit- gees lndufl.ne gowns. You admire ex- travagantly, and perhaps make a con- tribution to help ered together. n 2 8ssving Of nd they are put ell the hoard. F the circumstances rlg’ families. Their competence is very modest; perhaps they are really In most cases the young women earn their own !iving. You lock at this array and preparation, costing hundreds and you say te yourself in “What are these girls of side or crossed, ‘f'ablespoo! cbraer of the on the sideboard, en as wanted. gravy spood fork are placed table for the both given at a "t the bottom of the ter_of the house to | fish are not generally small dinner. the soup ladle is, of t on the table; and when then the fish-slice Many young women seem (o they are not properly equipped to launch appiness unless they possess trunks full of expensive finery. think about it, girls: What e clothes at this ! in many & wedding into their n soup, but not fish, - 4o are not to be h: “with a big fork. should be cu they are by a goo: important ~ consideration. - coming fo the man you love, laying at feet in. honest surrender T own: true self? e is thinking of, not how you Should you mot come to im just as -you have always lived— Is there anything him. in' this world than just he met you; just as he od; just as he takes you ho have lived In r with its lux- ?'N ~equipped. ‘ed in good taste to er, and at fashion- ver appears., But dinners_sensible in this mat- able functions at informal OF . people do as th now to himselt? Of course, the girls wealth, wlo ars ury, and who, money at every t “trouss itinue to move with , spend lavishly on jut that is nething eir wedding prepara- = flensxve Doll Furniture Yyear out of n g:n:‘ pale blue silesia two-pound can one end and a lmn.lllr’t’hphcg fastened on the foundation for a of white cheesecloth and cotton batting, tufted with coarse blue silk. _more costly pasteboard fil turned up- standing up at ch it from the syr- gently knead the ab- y so that the remain- run out through the way down. Then t! :I‘I’Ih:u mfly ':'overe&"«‘