The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 28, 1905, Page 6

way agreeabl mon it s ge the cus which is greatly t As I have said hostess would, of course, be expecte ved 1 real tea-gown, wk simple comfortable rest elaborate, but mu and graceful thing to tired and conseque a rest_to the brain Of course, the gown should be something more than mer nd graceful, it must be we harmo- nious and appr f superior material. Such a gown is, no doudt, a luxury, but I think we are entitled to some luxuries, and this_particular ex- travagance gives pleasure, not only to ourselves, but to our fri as well And after all it need not be such a very expensive affair. It can be simply made, end graceful cost no more than stifft and stralght Mnes. In France, the tea-gown is much more generally worn than it Is here. Both the material and the cost of making are much less than bere. But after all the main thing is the deslgn, which sometimes calls forth the greatest efforts of the most celebrated makers, or sometimes is the product of the Individual skill and taste of the « wearer, In France a young lady's trous- seau will always contain several tea- gowns, some of which are simple, while some are more or less elaborate. The latter can freguently be worn at dinner and in the evening, unless there are in- vited guests. Tea-gowns are usually made somewhat -low in the meck, the lines L IBERTY S5 > Br = GON, o NEZT long or reaching omly d hang- rently ere really must be In some a bopeless le bust o the floor. : ving closely the outer Frequent- g bodice and times two underskirts. While there ny different ds of tea-gowns, the. style that seems to me to be the most effective is what is called the gown. In this gown the lines emely graceful, flowing and easy. A type of this kind is shown in the ation of the triple gown, appears to be so0o flowing 1 hile in reality it 1s a very although it is made for t as well as beauty. It is really > gowas, the first of which, or the under gown, is of blue Liberty satin, and e to fit well across the bust, but e, although with a slight curve at the waist. uwer this is an accordion plaited gownjof blue Liberty silk, down the back of which three strips of silver lace insertion are sewed on and reach to the bottom of the skirt. The strips of insertion begin one at each shoulder and one in the middle of the back, coming nearly togetheg at the waist line, and di- verging thence, the flare out to the bottom of the gown. The same effect is carried out in the front of the dress, but only two strips of insertion are used there. Over all of this is an outer dress of cream (or perhaps it may be called ecru) colored net lace. In the fllustra- tion this outer dress opens in front and hangs loosely from the bust, giving a very graceful effect. The whole com- binatien, with the faint motif of silver, is wonderfully attractive. Tha sleeves are made of the lace, with a little chit- fon puff at the top, on which are three dainty blue satin bows, but they are left open down the middle part of the arm and caught up at the wrist in a little cuff, which also has three satin bows, It is cut low in the neck, where it is softened by soft chiffon. Around. the bust very delicate light blue chiffon is drawn quite tight and fastens in front in a2 knot with long ends, which reach to the flcor. The ensemble is flowing, graceful and extremely pretty. A gown like this can be worn without corsets, and if put on In the afternoon, after a day's shopping, is. very restful, and at the same time elegant and attractive. The two most famous men dressmakers 18 loc in Parls are Worth and Paquin and a great rivalry exists -between them. ‘Worth;- who makes the gowns for crowned heads and millionaires, s fa- mous for his tea-gowns. Paquin, who is a Breton peasant by birth, still retains his fondness for the peasant’s combina- tion of colors, and his favorite model foi 2 gown was of black velvet with gold bands around the bottom of the skirt, which the Breton peasants are wearing to this day. At one time this effect was very much the mode in Paris, but Worth, who knew the arigin of these ideas, has since Insisted on a narrow skirt without trimming, and of some other material than velvet. Another tea-gqwn which is here por- trayed is a copy of a gown made by Worth for the Empress of Rus- sla. A friend of mine saw 'this THE SAN FRANCXSOO SUNDAY- CM ‘PHOTOS BY VAUGHAN & KEITH. gown in Paris and had an copy of it made by Werth for her- self. It is a beautiful and regal gown. The material is a heavy mauve velvet, and it is embroldered with mauve beads and bedecked with jewsls of imitation amethysts. Both the embroidery and the well are only placed around the neck afid down the sleeves. The neck is cut low and square, and from the neck the gown hangs loosely o two plaits, which run ddwn the front' only to the walst. The sleeves are very fascinating and seem to be made of one straight plece, put in with a few perfectly even gathers. The.inside séam is left entirely opem, and down each side of this open sleeve is carrfed out the embroidery motif. Two straight strips of jeweled velvet at the top of seam hold the sleeves open, uamuxmumdm‘ pack of the gown 1s madae in a “’lttelu plait, and a mauve silk cord ‘with chenille tassels is brought from be- néath this plait and tied loosely in front. The under bodice is of soft and thin silk, and is made to fit the figure by means of elastics, which hold the bodice finnly in place. The lining of the velvet is the thinnest and softest silk possible, but the sleeves are lined with heavy satin, all, of course, in one color tome, mauve. Worth is very much given to making a square-cut neck, a style that is by no means always becoming. One must have a beautiful neck, with a very graceful line from the ear to the shoulder to adopt this style. Singular to say, too, it is more becoming to brunettes than to blondes, although no reason can be given for this statement. Another of Worth's tea gowns, which 1s in somewhat the same style as the one which I have just attempted MR r HODEL <V~ MATVE VELVET TN SEWELZLED TRIMPITNG S %0 describs, is one with the In- side gown made of mousseline de sole, and the outside gown of dark viclet velvet. It is also cut square in the neck. The sleeves are somewhat con- “‘I‘lllfllll the outer sléeve being of vel- and the under sileeve and the puft nfi the wrist of violet mousseline ds sole. The velvet overgown is left open at the sides in order to display the soft mousse- line de sole beneath. This material l- a favorite one for tea gowns. I h cently seen dnother of these gowns m. of this soft material and lace, which made an exceedingly pretty combination. A much less expensive tea gownds made of blue Liberty una, accordion plaited, ‘jtll‘ an Omm printed ONE -FUECE SLZXE ZEMBERESS oF ZTZA GO SIArRLIOITY AND ZLECANCE 7N 72575 GO OF S.aryar AN LAcE f/fl" pattern and a little exercise of Ingenurty one can make one’s own tea-gowns, but this necessarily presupposes taste and skill, A French tea gown, the charm of which seems to lie in its simplicity in line and color, is made of satin and lace. The outer material is Liberty satin of a Nile green color, and the lining 1s a soft India silk. It is brought tight across the bust and drawn up on the left side, where it is fastened with an elaborate buckle. The sleeves are unmistakably French, of a kind which is rarely seen here, but which is very popular in France. The top of the sleeve is a chiffon puff of the same color as the gown, while the sleeves them- selves, which are made of heavy white lace and jeweled with imitation emeralds and pearls, fit the arm very snugly and %I‘low to Have QU can't have pretty hands with- out the most careful manicuring of the nalls and taking some cara of the skin in cold weather or where any housework is necessary. Just beecause your hands are small and dimpled Is no reasom for neglect- ing them. Nearly all American girls have small hands, and pretty hands are the rule, not the exception; but both of these facts can be lost sight of if the skin Is not smooth and fine textured, if the nails are well trimmed oval and the cuticle in shape about the nalls. In other words, no hand shows to its best advantage that is not well groomed. And the prettiest dressing loses some of its artistic value if the hands are not well kept and daintily attractive. And it is also quite true that a large hand or a bony hand can lose its ugli- ness and become attractive if it is reg- ularly and carefully grcomed. The first step in grooming the hands is that they should be exquisitely clean, and the second is manicuring. It is ab- sclutely necessary that they should be washed in soft water, and best of all, water made soft with borax. It not only whitens the hands, but keeps the nails of nervous women from getting brittlee. The water suouid be tepid, never hot, and pure Castile soap should be used. ' To whiten the hands use a wash of three ounces of rosewater, two ounces of benzoin, half an ounce of glycerine and half an ounce of borax. Before manicuring the nails should be spaked at least, five minutes in strong Castile suds. Then the nails should be filed, riever cut with a seis- sors, into shape. After the filing the edges should be smoothed with fine undpuper. and the nails cleaned with an orange wood stick. Last they lhould be powdered and rubbed very gently with a polisher. Nails are cut slightly ovu to fit the shape of the end of the finger, and never highly polished. If the hands are at all inclined to ;Tum l'l‘lh clpolm to eel:ln :; the unm nto water m use- 'k they sheuld softened with rubbing in cream, scrub the n if chapped, In warm water enm Be! hands, ‘1\7 == PURTTIAS are brought down In a point over the hand. The cut square and is finished ame jeweled lace. Altogeth, th this gowd is exceedingly p 4 ique gown i that famous estad- Liberty's, ' that nating place, full st alluring styles, s, one in Bond »ndon, and one e I'Opera, in Paris. This from the Paris made of that won- aterial which is so soft and thin nder-gown or lin- h it. This Miing k, and a most uced by the pink particular gown establishment. It i 2 SN the bust, gly across where it Is dered with pearis. From the ba 1e gown a fold of ‘white ¢ under the arms and ties one side at the edge of the s: low neck line, and the long s ‘\;\ g down almeost to the floor. The edges of these ends are outlined in pedrls, and pearl tassels hang from the bottom of them. The siteves nd full, and are made lke ¥'s wings, banging to the floer in it. The material is white chiffon, with a puff at the top, and they give a most charming effect to this very beautiful gown. The sieeves are open down . the middle of the arm and are caught together with little satin buttoms. Like the chiffon ends, the sleeves are outlined with pearls and have & tassel at each end. This apparently simple but really elaborate tea-gown is a partiou- larly fascinating one and serves excal- lently well to end the list. I trust, how- ever, that I have sald emough to prove that the tea-gown, while it is a most at- tractive and interesting garment, must be undertaken with the greatest taste and must be watched and guarded with the greatest care. It is an unusually deli- cpte dress, easily rumpled and easily soiled, and it should never be allowed to be either. Pretty Hands and soap with a brush. Brush each joint, then the nalls, until every bit of soil and grime is removed, them dry thoroughly and ru with some tested cold cream. An excellent emollient is the following lotion rubbed in near the heat and left on over night: Fresh cucumber juice, eight ounces; oil of sweet almonds, two ounces powdered white Castile soap, one- fourth of an ounce; essence of cucum- bers, three ounces; tincture of benzoin, twenty drops; beric acid, fifteen grains. ‘Wash, slice, but do not peel, two Lt green cucumbers; boil in a porcel kettle with a scant half cup of water until'the cucumbers are soft and pulp: cool and strain through muslin. Meas- ure off one and a half ounces and add an equal amount of alcohol. Let this cucumber essence stand over night; in the morning add powdered seap, then eight ounces of cucumber juice and the oll very slowly, lastly the benzoin. Shake thoroughly fifteen minutes, pour in the beric acid and shake again In five minutes. If not too heating wear soft, old gloves at niglt to keep the cream from soiling the linen and to give an added moisture to too dry a skin. The nails should not be manicured more than once a polishing will Too much rubbing make the naiis brittle, and too much soaking will ruin the color. If they 8row very swiftly, file every four days and smooth with emery paper. It is an excellent plan where there is laundry work or dish washing to be done to keep a jar of cream in the kitchen and rub the hands with it al- ways before drying, them pat dry and they will be smocth without feeling greasy. Hands tlnt redden or roughen easily should never be allowed out doors un- protected. Where there i3 any tendency to chilblains, fleece-lined gloves or woolen are most disastrous. Heavy dogskin or castor with a fur muft are the best precaution for hands sus- ceptible to Juk Frost's admiration. A well kept pretty hand is not & mere exhibition of vanity; it is a pmtdmmud-lm.huv. other people innocent pleasure,