The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 30, 1905, Page 6

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY -CALL. VY, nd sandals ' with, “The there will Story the the ed. Dr t genera Mary Walker in W hington Fashions appear in GLERPMAN PEASANTS) — | U= S =7 be light, graceful and fluffy, made of thin lawn or linen, daintily embroider- Sunday Call » scrics of articles on few faithful followers donned ed by hand, and buttoned i the back. fashiens and other topics dear to the ine trouse Amelia Bloom- = Dressmakers are now using to a great feminine beart, from the pen of Miss d the short skirt and Turkish extent medallions of fancy embroidery Elizabesh Ames, one of the most pop- r still and insertions of Irish lace, which ular and widely - known me of cx- reform on a sup- prove to be very popular. A waist is e San Franc and a asis. But these rad- soeicty made to look rich and taking by hand TR NS Autivsiy Ses Oh meecs t with little favor run tucks. A quite inexpensive waist e e <5 FRCOERIELR B the 508~ may bs made of pongee and one can ASHIONS a» : Ganblon. . & Tew suspolr. find exceedingly pretty pongee waists " ive in England and have in the natural colors Ome of the de- geable as tr t ing there that pretend to sirable qualities of natural pongees is v . tural “beauty. of ‘the fe- that the light tan colors are in pretty ‘ Z in harmonious apparel. shades and are generally very becom- = i avor in that way to present ing and, besides that. can’safely and 2 ¥ BRpTL bject, but easily be washed. Navy blue pongee Shell chles Xrngatie 1 Pom waists will also be popular and they r . i P AIeeely, Phe Now, Tomk are frequently made with little accord- PEELng L SuE oy ion plaits laid all across the front and bat s lac high-heeled or v that nts on siim figures the effect is certainly very pretty. . . talk and their In deseribing such garments one € z€ 1 of diatribes against mi- must consider the economical aspect of ize k. § distorted lungs and defective the subject as well as the fashionable - - . ’ 1 action caused by the garb of modes. In fact, almost every girl can ffect ail these efforts will be guessed. ave done enough in only What we have. to s the fashion of the day Jdifications and varfations. The g that naturally comes up is ely convenient and com- not easily A ate I h ntioning the der now I TR ) make shirt waists for herself and the matter of economy is one of her special considerations. Naturally, good taste has to be cultivated at the same time, but it is quite compatible with limited resources, and many yvueng ladies pre- fer to be their own dressmakers to this extent and rely entirely on their own ideas, both as to color, fit and ent worn by all of us at cost. They should constantly keep in the shirt waist—a garment so ’4 ind, however, that good material is ely ccnvenient and comfortable 3 2 much cheaper in the end than poor & to have been adonted to some ex- ’//"/"// material and that any extreme in tent by the tyrant man. 1 have seen LN fashion may prove to be bad policy, in seversl me Boston and New York view of the frequent modifications of ciad in shirt waists. It struck me the fashions of the day. Xs to color, first as very funny, particiia when fact is that the decree has gone that inst of the stiff shirt that garment th nish man- musi{ T et O e i Calling Gewn Frons Tity of Paris, GRRGGRGGENGT e BT N PRGOS 05055 white is to be most strongly recom- 1 happened to meet in Boston a long- mended, as it does not fade, either in haired man and a short-hiired woman, the sunlight or in the washing, and the h dressed in shirt waists ard straw effect is almost always neat and at- they were sitting down it was . tractive. They should also remember a rear view w0 differen- that one means of increasing the ef- es. But this is only by fectiveness of such a waist is to select appropriate and suitable buttons. In Paris, “imitation turquoise buttons are used with white lawn or linen waists and frequently supplemented by blue ¥ AUNT MARY., KER A S e N B o 0N HEN the First National Bank of Olivet was organized, capi- It 38 a well know ot fashions ‘are I ;h\’w"_'j‘ tal $50,000, Aunt Mary Hil- defect or f liard became a stockholder b to the extent of $10,000. She was a copled ar wealthy widow, past middle age, and ccinandd sl could have furnished the full amount nens had she so desired. s e The balance of the stock was taken S ot by the business men of Olivet and France, but beat . farmers thereabouts, and in due time the bank opened for business. When the stockholdérs met to elect a board of directors they figured on leaving Aunt Mary out, though she was one of the largest stockholders. She was lishing nexorabl th not easy to i 1 woman, they said, and she knew lit- the changes but their periodicity is tle about business, and she should be duration. Their orbits, well content to draw her dividends are hard to caiculate and leave the active management to violent changes are exp S noying and have to be me S of inventive devices that try our souls, o '.“nke any uiske; avant le others are more or less easy cautioned Aunt Mary, as she within economical resources. And | d her bonnet on the back of her ashion itself has of late yea had | head and stood up. “I've beoen doing to conform to the prev ti- | business ever since my husband died, ner e ¥ o all <} - Wom- | gireen years ago, and 1 think - I've en. longer marks distine- § The fashions of toodey | 1¢4T0ed a thing or two, even about .moeratic that they can | PAPKINg. 1 not only want to be a be worn by all classes alike. It is only | director, but I shall drop in here quite n the material*that any distinction | often to see how things are going.” can be made Aunt Mary was made a director. It l)uz‘.\,t -nall (ar;fi <ro=yh~in, but they | yag that or trouble. Then the five are no eco; zed as fashic , & are i " “’m”:‘*w‘fi“‘ ashions, and are | 4i...10rs clected a president, secre- s S | tary and cashier, and four of = them e ih i similed paternally as the woman imed the honot of making the first deposit. The president was a new- comer (o the town, but he had money in her famous dances, but also on the boulevards of Paris, but her bare feet + and had been cashier of a bank in Buffalo. The secretary .and cashier were old residents. The First National secured a large business at once, and as time passed on Aunt Mary dropped in occasionally to keep posted. Pecple who thought she was old-fashioned in her business no- tions, or that her limit was selling but- ter and eggs, had to acknowledge their mistake. She was quite up to date on finance, and she knew a good invest- ment from a doubtful one as well as the oresident did. Things were being managed in good shape all around and the bank was looking ahead to fair dividernds at the end of the year, when Paul Hazzard, nephew of unt Mary, and a young man of 22, appeared on the scene. That is, he appeared at Aunt Mary's house, two miles out of town, for a visit of a month or two. As he came from a good family and had just fin- ished at the university and was lbb\;t' to study for the law, the harshest critic could have found little fault with him in that regard. Aunt Mary let it be known that he was the apple of her eye and her heir as well. It wasn't the fact that Paul came to visit his aunt that shook the First National to its foundations later, but that he promptly met and fell in love with Kittie Leslie, daughter of the bank’s president. It so happened that his own aunt made the introduction in the directors’ room of the bank, in- troducing him to the father at the By James Cleary Q same time, and so the young man found himself properly vouched for. Mr. Leslie appeared to look upon him with favor, and Kitty was well liked by Aunt Mary, and thus the love match started off well. In a month there was an understanding between the two. Treds, shrubs and burdocks grow faster in a country town than in a big city, and perhaps love does the same. Gossip had it that it was all settled between Paul and Kitty when the girl's father stepped in to unsettle things. He had no objections to Paul on general principles, but he had other views regarding Kitty. In fact, he was planning a certain combination of love and finance. He had his eyes and ears open, and when he thought the flirtation had gone far enough he put his parental foot down. He had a talk with Paul. He was very nice about it, but also very firm. “So Mr. Leslie thinks you are not good enough, for his daughter, eh?” Aunt Mary queried when the news had been broken. “Well, tI is not strictly banking business, but I shall drop in to-morrow and have a few words with him. Seems to me his head is getting too big for his hat.” Aunt Mary dropped in and had a talk. - Mr. Leslle was suave, but he didn't want Paul Hazzard for a son- in-law. He sald- all sorts of good things as an offset, but he was firm on that one point. It wasn’'t palicy for him to antagonize one of the largest stockholders in the bank, and he tried his best to smooth over things and send Aunt Mary away in friendly spirit. “Well, I've seen him,” she remarked on returning home. “If he has bis way about things you'll never marry Kitty.” Paul groaned. “But he won't have his way,” she continued. “On the contrary, I'll have mine. You and Kitty be patient for a few weeks and there’ll either be a marriage or your Aunt Mary will admit that she doesn’t:know rabbits from woodchucks.” The shares of the First National were valued at $110, with none for sele. All men will sell, however, at a price. That very day Aunt Mary ‘began hunting up the small stockhold- ers, buying stock and pledging them to secrecy. She paid fifteen, twenty and twenty-five bonus, but she got what she was after. In a month she had a controlling interest and the stecck was duly transferred on the beoks. There was considerable specu- lation as to what was up, but no one surmised the truth until the first an- nual meeting came around. Aunt Mary was present and it was noticed that her jaw was set. . ““We+ will now Vote to elect a board of directors,” softly announced the s2c- retary when the meeting had been called to order. Aunt Mary had a ticket of her own to vote and she speedily voted the old board out. In answer to their looks of consternation she said: “This afternoon the directors will elect officers. I shall be president and my nephew cashier.” “But my dear Mrs. Hilliard——"" be- gan Mr. Leslie. “I am within my legal rights, sir,” she Interrupted. “I have never run a bank yet, but I think I can do so. That is, T shall do so unless——" The pause was dramatic. All had a susplcion of what was wrong and Mr. Leslie knew that he was in a trap. “Unless. what?” he finally asked, with a rather-pale face, “Unless my nephew should get mar- ried soon. In that case he would not want to act as cashier. Did any one move to adjourn?” No one had. In fact. no one wanted to adjourn until things had been settled. “I think your nephew had better get married,” observed Mr. Leslie as he stared into vacancy. “Very soon?" queri “I think Kitty will a month.” “Well, if that’s your opinion, I'm ‘quite agreeable. Would it be against the law to hold a new election for di- rectors?” “You seem to be the law your- self.” “Then TI'll call a new nfeeung and cast my votes for the old board and, as a director, I vote to re-elect the .old executive board. I have a little more stock than I want and if any of you hear of anybody who.wants a few thousands at $110, please send them to me.” (Copyright, 1004, by K. M. Whitchead.) Aunt Mary. ready within turquoise earrings—and the whole ef- fect is quite “fetching.” » But perhaps I have said enough on the subject of shirt waists fot the pres- ent. The shirt waist suit naturally suggests itself as the next topiec for copsideration. While the suit of dark color will no doubt remain popular, yet the real smart thing this season is cer- tainly going to be of white taffeta. In the cities of the East the white linen suits and white shoes present a very smart and attractive appearance, but they are not often seen in the streets of San Frapcisco, But you also see lawnhdresses in colors, worn with shoes and parasol tomach, and the effect is exceedingly striking. N more beau- tiful- sight in the way of effective ap- parel. can be seen anywhere than at Cambridge on the Harvard class day. The dresses on that important day are an inspiration. But the question nat- urally arises, Is that sort of raiment possible in San Francisco, where it is 4uite the commeon thing to meet wo- men wearing fur capes and tippets in July and August? Such an anomalous garb as that at that season of the year renders a discussion of this subject seem almost hopeless. Still, such dresses are no doubt worn in the coun- try in the summer months, but after a season in the East and in Paris one misses the brightness that this pretty style of apparel lends to the scene on the streets or at the country resorts. These fashions, even if not praecticable in this summer climate of ours, do, how- ever, emphasize the great importance of the flat that everything must be made to mateh, including the stréet slippers, which are now made of all colors. 30 A In the matter of sleeves, the elbow puff is almost exclusively worn this “spring. This js a big puff, reaching from the shoulders to the elbow and generally shirred or tucked down the middie of the arm. It is confined at the elbow by a very deep cuff. These puffs are worn with gowns for all occasions. Of course, on the street, long gloves must be worn, either white or black, as the dress demands. Perhaps the best way .to bring my idea of a calling gown fully up to the requirements of fashion will be to sub- mit an illustration of one that I have recently seen. It strikingly resembles the gown worn by Mrs. C. B. Alexan- der at the Barney wedding in New York. The material is a soft three- toned chameleon moire taffeta, the colors in it being shades of blue, tan and cherry pink. These three colors blend charmingly, the tan being the dominant shade. The reveres and vest are of Valenciennes lace, with a knot of blue silk at the throat, and the but- tons, which are turquoise blue and very Frenchy, make a splendid finish for the girdle. The skirt is full and plain, except that there are a few tucks over the hips and four ruches, made of the same material, at the bot- tom. It is a “Randwitz” model and very chic. The hat worn with it is a light blue Neapolitan straw, with feathers to match, and pink roses that tone in with the entire costume. I no- tice that it is very much in vegune (o wear pink and blue together. Many hats during this seagon are trimmed with blue feathers, the ends of which have been tinted pink, and the effect is really very pretty. Speaking of hats, they are very muc h smaller than those of last yeir, anl are ‘very profusely trimmed in the back. They are worn at an acute angle over the face, so as to show the crown. Blue chip hats, made n & round. saflor shape ana tpped up in the back and trimmed with lite French pink roses, are very much the rage. It seems to me that many girls conid make uv the trimming or their ewn hats by the exercise of a 'ittle in- genuity and taste, with 5 resuit that would often be better cnan the crea- tion ‘'of a milliner. -At-ail events it would be well worth tryin, and it would effect a very conmsideruble sav- ing. ELIZABETH AMES.