The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 30, 1905, Page 11

- HE' Lenfen girl is no more. At least, mot for =a twelvemontt, Yor Miss Frivolity, made of sun- shine’ and’ smiles, of brilllant volors @nd ‘sparkling glints, has ¢ ced’ -herself into the merry whirl the world has drawh a long breath 4 permjtted itself té6 €mile once more nsequeénce Not-that: flire Lsntén girl, with her sumber grabs.and dullish grays, isn't Tor she is;.but too much becomes tiresome and six‘ weeks is quite long renounce the world with d giddy The_girl who ‘has religiously stayed me from the theater and from places of amusement has told hetself in high glee what a swath she would cut on Daster mornipg, ‘and she has. even planried and. worked zealously that she might be able to attain this end. She has maf@ie secrifices, no doubt, but she has been comforted th the knowledge that her stock of winter finery d heen pytposely permitted: to fray it- self out 3t both ‘ends,‘and fhat the forced rést had not been without its advantages. For some how or other Easter means will be women, and the ringing of the church be¥ or aster Supday ca out, not only the devout worghiper, but the worshiper in her Baster finery as well somg-howor other- Egster means L Only a new era in.the church world, & new one In the social world as .. @mrd it would mever do to be g forgetful .of proprieties and customs @8 to come out on Easter Sun- day rrayed second best. And, then, 100, the period of the year is radically nged inter with its dluster has gone off in search of other victims and Spring has come marfching along with its myriads of flowere and its I'm-glad- worldly couldn’'t possibly the wardrobe: had not a for no at_peace < genera of & minute behind Saster is the time: of ther she is up to expected if plenished times t ghow Of all people, the springtime bride i& revel in gorgeous color®, and this vear than r be- r while her own froc wi of white, her maids will be glorious in all the colore of the rainbow, for it is the styie to have fhe spring weddings as-gay ag po 1 year of honor, she has and ope matron of honor, he walks ‘to the altar and ivers her into the keeping of stead of six ma! eigh matron of honor ‘idea ‘really is one and it is decidedly nige, nasmych as& it leaves the father freé *o walk sedately down the aisle with his wife 'and to stay.Deside her instead of svarching her sit in the front pew the. rest of the interested specta~ ‘The -matr may be the bride's sister or she may be a young ed, friend, kride of last June or éven . November, ut- she must be pung and pretty and bleoming, and hot least, she must be dressed pretty »ink = For be it known the wed g colors this spring- ére pink and lilac. Even the: bride «eviates from the narrow, white.gpath 2nd ‘carries roses, orchids r pinks; or £he even goes into the gar- ep ¢nd gets a great bunch of lilacs wing pink touches. Her gown is e, but pink and pink alone is the color of ‘the fiowers. The. Baster bride, as she is catled. genesal has need “of a multitude of charming summer frocks and she has been wmfise enough to realize: that an elgboraté ,satin affair is good for just orie peeasion, and that. as soon as she has -added the prefix of Mrs. to her sdeme: ghe will have the pleasure of putting it awgy in tissue paper and delicately -scented lavender bags. For #omehow or qther a wedding gown is always & wedding gown, and while it may be beautiful it rarely if ever is serviceable. Bo the sensible bride of Easter month has planned a simple ‘gown, for really, after all is said and done, the plainer fife birjde’s frock is made the better the resylt. It is mot necessary to make it #0 very,elaborate and brides are slowly buf surely awaking to this fact. The weil hides the gown. which, If white and glossy and nicely finished, scarcely shows at gll Bobbinet is a material that is begin- ning to come into prominence and as it 16 cheap—some 30 cents a yard for & fair gualfty-=it deserves to be popu- lar. Unfortunately Dame Fashion rather insists upon a wedding gown with a train. - But if it is made with two wide ruffies with shirred headings, and a simple little ehirt waist .effect with poinsed - front, it is a very little thipg to transform it ipto- a plazza gown by cutting off the train -and )as¥ing the skirt-suitable for walking purposes or for dancing. °And, by thg way, let me tell you while T think of it, the Easter girl is shirt waist crazy. Bverything must be cut after the simple fashion, even if ft-%g transformed by draping a .lace bertha across the bust to make the full .French puffed waist. And one other fad she possesses as fell. The jewelry craze. If she is for- tupate enough to possess a diamond star or @ diamond necklace she may wear jt with all propriety on her wed- ding day, or she may even loop a string of pearis about her throat and still be quite in $tyle, for these days it is con- sidered good form to do so. And not only this. Bracelets are all the craze and the Easter bride should be in clover. To be sure, the newest bracelets are of silver chains that are very heavy and made of silver links, but even if such is the case, there Is scarcely. any possibilities of g a mistake in this line, for everything and anything seems to be absolutely fit All of her old-fashioned trinkets may be brought out, both silver and gold alike, for one is quite as fashionable as the other, and it is even considered good taste to wear a quaint old gold set wiih dilamonds on One arm and a silvér orpament on the other. The old- time flat gold bracelet, thin as a wafer, and fastened with a clasp about the PHOTO BY THORS. wrist, {s worn again, too, but it must be modernized with a charm of some description dangling from it. Answers to Correspondents FITTED PETTICOATS (Tao Stout).— .Your trouble is largely due to improper dressing. To overcome much of the bulkiness about the hips discard all full gathered petticoats and substitute those that are gored and carefully fitted llke a dress skirt. Use a five or seven gored petticoat pattern with an inverted box-plait at the middle of the back and finished with a flounce. Adjust the belt the required size and close with a flat but- ton or with hooks and eyes. The tapes tied in front and bunchy gathers probably cause your well-made new skirts to wrinkle below the belt. Un- dervests and drawers should fit snugly about the hips and the latter should always be put on under the corset. AFTER THEATER SUPPER (Mrs. Thomas B.).—The following menu will be found dainty, appetizing and suf- ficient for an after theater supper: Oysters on the half shell, bouillon in cups, lobster a la Newburg or sweet- breads and fresh peas, salads, ices, bonbons, cake and coffee. As to whether it should be served at home or in a restaurant is largely a matter of convenience to the host or hostess. Unless your cook is very skillful you will probably bé better satisfied with the work of some establishment where a specialty is made of such dishes as 1 have named and you will be relieved of all anxlety incident to serving. When the party to be served is large make your arrangements with the ca- terer early in.the day and there wi be no tiresome waits after the arrival from the ‘theater. HINTS "FOR SINESS WOMEN (Gracie).—The weman who must get to an: office promptly each day can save herself needless worry and have much for a no’urllhlnz breakfast which is of more time for the coveted morning nap Vvital importance to your health. if she will make a few needful prepara- £ tions before retiring. Sew on loose but PLAYTHINGS FOR CHILDREN tons,” polish ‘the shoes and mend the (Mrs, P. B).—To keep a very young gloves. the clothing and ac- chiid amused give him only one or two cessories conveniently near on a chair uring 2 o S to facilitate dressing in the morning, to¥e during the day; the next day bring Clothing which has been worn all day OUt something else and lay the first in a close office should be taken oft One aside. By this plan he will forget after reaching home, brushed and hung the first toys at the end of a week and in the open air or spread over a chair they will entertain him again, while if . near an open window. You will feel the entire supply is ;fl"“ ‘before him and look better for this extra care of ¢ach day the liti 14 becomes con- your clothing. Be particular to brush fused and wearied In the very e to your hair tho: y before retiring make a selection and peevish ¥ and it will need care in the morn- tent results. Parents make a serious ing. Manicure your nalls and have all mistake in supplying all manner of me- THE SAN FRANCISCO "SUNDAY CALIL 2 to convert into.a game. Keep all the amusements for the child 'v:‘r” flbflh and do not keep &P a constant of diversions in the way rocking Him. This methoa g ! toilet articles in_place for immediate chanical devices for the entertainment : use in.the mornirg. ‘want of a pin ot:.fir‘nntchud.,, is loft for his mouth. It is a disease of the mucous or a veil eleventh hout and uw“fl:n", mfi:mr ’ U] a mmz:maud to ‘t'.‘hn ulcer- an : s blas -from s mou an- nothing is w o :g:m be thoroughly rin :ntm: 1d soon_ becomes 2 interest and be utterly fails to ap- - R R S e ter in which tinc myrrh to L ly | 3 tincture of . he relegic of (heges=> ¢ Lenfen —Girl - ——— . o pint of water. While the cankered sors mouth is very painful it is not dangerous and may arise from acidity of the stomach, impure or feverish state of the blood, superinduced by some functional disturbance. The most effective way to prevent these sores is to improve the condition of the digestive organs and take a good blood puritler.. To reduce the infiam- mation take one ounce each of glycerin and perchloride of iron, mix thoroughly and pour a few drops on a china plate. Dip a camel’s hair brush in the mixture and touch each spot thoroughly and after a few min- utes rinse the mouth thoreughly to free the teeth from the iron. During the attack refrain from eating any food which irritates the sores. Cheese, salt and lemons are particularly dis- tressing. St REDNESS OF THE NOSE . (Mary B.).—The three most common causes of redness of the nose are indigestion, im- perfect circulation and insipid erysipe- latous inflammation. tion"has become ehronic you will ob- serve the nose is almost of normal ‘color before breakfast, but after that meal, and after a heavy din- ner, the rubicund color will hgn to manifest itself most clearly. this corresponds to your condition be more careful and g of your diet avold all wines and Obtaln a reliable e your to correct the acidity of the toward the thoughtless rubbing of the nose when ‘talking. By resorting °to intefmal and external remedies the trouble ecan, probably, be readily corrected. To as- sist in allaying the redness have the followipg lotion prepared by a drug- gist: Two ounces of;glycerine, three ounces elder fiqwer water, one drachm of muriate of ammonia, ome-half drachm of tannic aecid. Saturate a piece of absorbent cotton Wwith the lo- tion and bind on the nose before retir- ing. You may also bathe the nose sev- eral times a day with 2his lotion. . Sreiei PREVENTION OF, STOUTNESS (M. B. and F. L. N.).—Many ‘women voice the sentiment of Hamlet, “O, that this too too solid, flesh would melt,™ yet when a little self-denial is hinted at they are ready to offér all manner of excuses, and because increasing adi- pose tissues are peculiar to middle, life, supinely fold their hands and let flesh accumulate, spending the time they should. employ in getting rid of this tlesh by annoying their family over their physical Durden. Unless it has become a diseafed condition there is no reason why fat cannot be held in abeyance if properly cdntrolled and treated in the beginning; this is half the battle. If the woman threatened with obesity will change her method of living, nine times .out of ten & de- cided reduction in weight can be safely made and by ratiopal, means which will, as well, imprpve..the general health- .Turkish baths, promiscuous experimenting with druffs * and the starvation diet cannot be, tgo strongly condemned; they do more harm than good and are often positively ‘danger- ous, injuring the hehlth without re- moving a pound of fiéssh. When a per- son has grown.to an:excessive weight 1 would not advise hofne treatment, for the vital organs are gl of them motre or less affected by the weight upon them, and only a skilled physician can de- termine what reginre is best to pur- sye. Cut off all sweets, starchy and greasy foods and use dweet’ milk and cream in moderation. The diet should be ndurishing and light. ' Drink *noth- ing at meals and restrict Hquids be- tween meals to three pints.or less of pure water during the ‘twenty-fousr hours. Sleep seven or eight hours; ten hours is too long to spénd in bed and adds to the accumul: of flesh. Take not less t threes warm. tub baths each week, followed by a cold sponge bath and a vigorous rub-8own. Walk briskly two qr three miles daily and you will see a decided redugtion of weight in six weeks. : il SHAMPOOING THE HAIR (Belle).— Long, fine hair is rather diffieult to manage, yet it can be successfully cleaned by exercising a little patlence, and the painful tangle and chill of which you complain be aveided. Be- fore wetting the halr be sure you have everything needed in readiness: plemty of fresh huck towels which are free from lint are best. Have an abundance of pure soft, water, both warm and ¢eol, and some pure bland soap. Never use inferior soap nor an unknown mixture and also avoid the frequent use of borax and ammonia. If the hair is dark and oily a few drops of ammonia or & pinch of borax in a large basin of water will not be injurious, but either is Injurious when the hair is light in color and dry and fine. Part the hair through the center, from the forehead to. the neck. and comb for- ward; tie the other half so that it will not become tangled.and proceed to wash one half and then the other, rub- bing a lather, made of.the soap and a Iittle hot water, into the.scalp' with the tips of the fingers. i1p and squeeze the hair in the warm watet until clean, rinse in several waters, each a little cooler than the preceding, and last in cold water. Wipe and press the hair with towels to. remeove the water as quickly as poSsible. Shake out ghe damp strands and sit or stand near a fire or a register to facilitate the dry- ing. Comb out any tangles, rub the scalp thoroughly with a tonic com- posed of bay rum and quinine’ which may be obtaine@ of any flzst-class druggist. The rum keeps the hair dry and soft and prevents one from taking cold. A reliable shampoo -mixture is made in the following manner: Shave a half pound bar of pure castile scap into one quart of boiling water; when dissolved add ore teaspootiful of bi- carbonate of sode, cool, perfume if de- sired, and pour into a wide mouth jar so that the jelly-like substance may be readily removed when wastad. To use dissolve a tablespoonful of the mixture in a cuo of hot water, rub into the scalp and wash and rinse as above di- rected. IMPROVING RED ARMS (M. B. P). Red arms are certainly very mortify- ing when exposed benmeath & dainty summer gown and I do not womder that you are distressed, but If you will falthfully follow the directions here given for a few weeks I am sure you can improve their condition. Bathing is of paramount importance: Next in order is a pure cream, which will soften the rough skin, and a whitening astringent lotion to reduce the color and close the coarse pores. Do not make the mistake of thinking that the creams and the whitening lotion will do the work entirely, for at the bot- tom of the success is absolute eleanli- ness .and the manipulation which re- lieves the skin of waste matter; the local applications are merely alds in the work. Three warm tub baths each week are sufficient, but each night be- fore retiring bathe the arms with hot water and rub on a thick ldther, al- ‘ways using a bland pure soap, especi- ally on the back of the upper arm ‘Wwhere the skin seems rough and ¢oarse. After rubbing briskly for five minutes wash off the lather, using plenty of hot water, and rinse the arms with cold water, drying with a rather rough towel, rubbing well to assist in dead cutlele. cite the circulation and give tone firmness to. the skin and under! and at the same time apply a small quantity of cocoa butter or a re- Hable prepared cream. As your arms are fleshy enough I advise the of the least quantity of cream tI will kep the skin soft. To whiten the arms and also as an astringent prepare this lotion: Take four ounces of. crange flower water, one ounce simple tine- ture of benzoin, one ounce tincture of camphor, two ounces witch hazel. Mix the benzoin and crange flower water, shake well, let stand for two hours and strain through very fine muslin, then add- the other- ingredients. Bathe the arms freely with this lotion after mas- in the morning after