The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 2, 1905, Page 10

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. ET me be a lilac or a rose for & time,” languidly sighs the maid of to-day and straightway the shops bring out a gown of lilac colored taffets with girdle yoke and vest of ‘eream taffeta embroidered in lilacs. Around the foot there is very apt to be a fiounce, with embroldered lilacs at the head. And with this they fetch a hat trimmed in tiny bunches. Nor do they stop in their mad career here either, verily this the year of extravagance. With this fine 13 for veri is array come two parasols, one a beau- other c colored one and the sunshade with For be it known to s the year of cs la Just discovered e VOws to possess doomsday. Whether s to be seen, but cer- re here for a season em d the plain the one that embroidered elegant is called shops, by ts satin sister, ore appropriate with d parasols this ent kinds fairly But the most e of satin, of y openwork m gured silk our parasols, ghtful sprigged nov- there is everything clever indeed is the mly and coclly pass f beg you to they are so pretty there are parasols that t exorbitant when you 1 to examine the beau- quality of th and work. it may all be, is dear when you have a fabric But d are trying to make a s spread out over the entire nforted and very speedily ere are parasols to match C and if you possess f taste, ® ten ¢ not cost cheap one ts, though in many more g out to buy a sun- buy right. And thing to do, for riety offered that you g0 completely wrong of bygones instead of In the first e are several e fashionabie para- are very few lace tle lace flcuncing, and ome lace covers and h were such a vogue e not to be found. re parasois abundantly op and on the panels, but or no lace, or trimming ter, to hang over the edge. e right direction ne sort of an idea mind 2s to the suit with which e to carry it. Not that they are you should form sc to match plicitly, for they most de- cidedly are cause you does not den duty to clash and when making your vose the right kind before you are entirely d pleased.” Silver, copper gun metal are all very while ivory, both light and pearls, clear and smoked e excellent. Then there is the gun metal set with turqucise or the copper with rubies in one corner. Or, the dull silver, made beau- tiful with enameled figures, All these are extremely fetching and fit, but the woman who is anxious to be right up to the season will hie herself to the counter where the wooden heads are sold and she will select a parasol with the head of a bulldog upon the handle. The head will be big and beautifully carved and it will look almost like life. In fact, queer as it may seem, most of these heads are as big =s apples and are done in dark woods to contrast sharp- ly with the light, daintily colored parasols. CHANGEABLE TAEFESAR A TOP WITH PERSIAN DOTS AND TIGURES A TOP MSISTITCHED BORDER AND DAINTY WORY The animals’ heads—jungle heads, they are called—were never as nume- rous. The monkey climbing a pole is seen and the dlephant solemnly walk- ing a narrow bridge all mounted upon the end of®a very long stick, which serves as the handle. Besides this there are horses’ heads and cats with arched backs and dogs as big as your clinched hand. To be honest, you simply can‘t have your “jungle head” too big and you can't have him too showy. It takes all sorts and conditions of people to make a world and for this reason it takes all sorts and conditions andles to please. The woman who likes sporty looking ornaments now and then tires of them and longs for a change and her meeker, more re- tiring sister wouldn‘'t wear one for love or money. So by way of variety the alpenstock is here and right smart it is too, with its extra long handle and Parisian rosettes about the hand instead of the dangling tassels that were formerly h used. Sometimes it is cu- crooked, or quaintly designed. while many of them are straight and long showing an expanse of etching that is as dainty and lovely as can be. And one more thing I would ~all your ntion to. Look at the shape and of the sunshade before you it your very own. Many of them an additional rib, which while it seems small in itself, makes all the difference in the world. Instead of being ordinarily curved, it is prettily hed and is just twice as smart ap- ing as its more unfortunate next- door neighbor. - “It is the finishing touches that ada the final bit of style and that really make or mar the article,” says Mr. Moran, one of the big wholsesalers in town. “For instance, the frame that ends in tiny ivory tips is ever so much more swagger than the one with in- significant little black wires. And, really, the difference iIn price is not so appalling, either.” The automobile or the coach parasol fashioned of greens, browns, blues and pongee, in a be- wildering array of tucked effects is certainly the proper caper for town wear, but there is no gainsaying, the fact that the lovely hand-painted chif- fons, trimmea with billows and billows of ruffics, are by far the prettiest thing that can be fashioned for fluffy summer gowns, There is a wonderful fad for flower eftects and her ladyship will be a pic- ture woman—resembjyng in every par- ;‘S«ul r a delicately colored, scented s Her gown will be sprigged and flowered and embroidered in vines and blossoms and her hat will be a sort of flower garden, a niiniature garden, to be sure, but one upon which the roses climb in trellis fashion, With such a costume the fluff and feather seem absolutely essential and no matter if Dame Fashion has set her foot down and said “no ruffles,” ruffies there will be for the few who are brave enough to defy her decree and be amazingly pretty as a conse- quence. The girl who is somewhat afraid of this stand can do the next best thing and buy a lined parasol, which, I am sorry to say, Is a little bit scarce, though it is seen now and then, and frequently llned with a contrast- ing color. Sometimes, it even hap- pens that there is a deal of hand em. broidery inside a sunshade and this makes it doubly pretty and lixewise doubly expensive, CiP BEROWN SILK wWiTH CHAMPAGNE: TAFFTETA BORDER. RDER. Al s sl KA oS | = Y R NS W, P QO 72 2 \##Z 3} HAND PAWNTED SHRRED APPLL POINT CRAUZE. But whether they are lacy and frilly or whether they are plain snd elegant, parasols there must be. That much is certain and there Isn't any getting around it. So don your most fetching frock and your most becom- ln! hat and start right out, for no Easter costume will be complete with- out it. And, by the way, let me add, be chic in buying your sunshade. No matter what you get or do, or what you cannot get or do, be chic! DOUBLE THZ VA LENCIENE COVERZ WITH SHIRRED CHIFTFON LINING Al L7 - TORP WiTH QUL ondents DORRIS (Fruit Punch).—One dozen lemons (squeezed), 3% drawer straw- berries (2-3 of them mashed, 1-3 whole); 1 can pineapple (chopped): 2 cups sugar; b lbs. ice (chopped). Let <HURRLD CHIFFON AT OVERING WITH CMIFFON 2UTFLES Prnoros BY STAGT;OR.D ST 1 O vTaa <7 ¥ EAD LAC & ¢ %‘ g the mixture stand in stone jar for one hour. Then add more water if desired. M. G. H. (Wrinkles).—You say your gkin is beginning to look old and dry. Here are three recipes and they are all good: Strawberry vinegar. lent, diluted in water, skin firm and fresh.) Fresh strawberries. ...3 pints ‘White wine vinegar ...1 quart Let steep seven days and strain. 2. To soften the skin of the face: Lanokln ......... +...1 ounce Almond oil ..... 1 ounce Simple tincture of benzoin..% oz. Mix the three fngredients thorough- 1y together and rub into the skin at night before going to bed. 3. Lotion for premature wrinkles: Rose water. . 12 fluid ounces Almond milk. . .3 fluid ounces Sulphate of aluminum..120 grains FORMING A BEAUTIFUL NECK (Marie).—To desire a well-rounded neck is not mere vanity, but a worthy ob- ject worthy of special effort. No sensi- ble woman should sit down and let the unlovely lines creep In about the throat when a half hour each day spent in exercise will ward off the marks of time for many years. -If careless as to how th head is poised, ‘correct the fault at once. carriage will bring all the pretty lines in play while an awkward poise of the head will often force a double chin in evidence which would never be ob- served, or but slightly, if the chin had been held up instead of being allowed to drop low with the muscles relaxed. ‘Whenever possible discard high and stiff collars, which are the most fruit- ful source of withered and discolored necks; the pressure and continual fric- tion destroys the texture of the skin and causes the muscles to become flab- by. It is a notable fact that women who habitually dress the neck very low retain the fine contour of the neck until late in life. Practice the following ex- ercises before a mirror with the neck muscles relaxed, and repeat each move- ment ten times. Relax the throat mus- cles, clasp the hands back of the neck and .roll the head around in a pivotal manner. Let the head go backward as far as possible, raise and repeat, then allow it to fall forward until the chin touches the breast, raise and repeat, doing the exercise slowly to avoid mus- cular strain. Next, let the head fall slowly to the right, raise and repeat, (This is excel- for making the A graceful. JATFETS, TOP wiTh VANDYK P C ASS DNEN. BoBTEE > & PARISIAN NOVELTY TR GQOLD ENAMELED TRAME WITH ETCHED ALPINSTICK HANDLE then go through the same movement to the left. Repeat this exercise fifteen times. EDWARINE (Corsets).—It Is very, very discouraging trying to develop the bust, but it -can be done many times if one persists at it. In the first place cold water will help you very much. Every morning dash cold water on your chest many times and then rub yourself vigorously to make the blaod circulate freely. At night take a good skin food and rub it in well, but be careful how you do it, because the breasts are very sensitive and you are very apt to do far more harm than good. Always rub round ard toward the center and rub gently. Massage is very good, but I would not advise you to try it, for the simple reason that I am afraid of it unless one knows.something of it. 2. There is no corset that will aid your purpose very much, though there are a few that will make you look larger and give you a better shape. For this answer, addresses, I mean, you will have to send me your name and address. In the mean time why don’t you make a series of three ruf- fles, cambric edged with lace, and wear them under your corse: cover? They will help your figure materially and are cool and clean and light in weight at the same time, 3. Bread, potatoes, milk, cream and sweets all help to increase flesh, but much meat must be left alone. Deep breathing exercises are good for this, too, as the blood bounds into every corner and gives new life and energy. DUTIES OF A GUEST (“Unsophisti- cated"),—When being entertained al- ways remember that your first duty Is to your hostess. A guest should not expect to be provided with continual amusement or seem to depend wholly upon the guidance of others; neither must she seek to introduce innovations of any kind, as they may be displeas- ing simply because they run counter to plans already under way. A guest must not make appointments or ask friends to call upon her until she has first consulted her hostess and gained her approval; this courtesy should never be neglected, for a hostess has a perfect right to know who is coming into her house and interpose a polite objection without any one feeling of- fended, if she sees fit to do so. Her objection does not necessarily reflect against your friends, but may be based entirely upon personal convenience, which she is not expected to explain. If your friends call be very particular to introduce them tc your hostess and members of her family. An inconsid- erate guest who takes advantage of his or her position as guest to impose nameless little selfish and thoughtless acts_ is the greatest trial with which a hostess has to contend, hence it is not strange that some pecple find the doors of their erstwhile friends closed against them. Tact and close observa- tion will teach one the happy medium and how to be a pleasant instead of a burdensome guest. HINTS FOR THE COUNTRY HOUSE (Mrs. M.).—The up-to-date housekeper in quest of something new for the country house will surely be in- terested in the latest chamber conven- fence, known as the “good-night” sets, which come in almost every color. The set consists of a candlestick, tumbler, ice pitcher and a match box, all fitted into a circular tray. To the jaded nerves, weary of clese surroundings, chambers fresh and dainty with dra- peries of flowered cretonne and flimy curtains of dotted swiss, soft green wicker or woven grass furniture and the spotless bed of enameled metal are Joys. If possible, arrange to have win- dow boxes attached to the chamber windows and fill them with gay gera- niums, mignonette and heliotrope, and don’t forget a rose geranium. TRese flower boxes will make the stay in the couniry even more enjoyable than usual and afford a charming contrast to the dust and roar of the city, which is well worth the time spent in keep- ing the flower boxes in order. For the living room Mission furniture is given the preference. Strong colors such as subdued green and red, are most - monious for the massive outlines of the furniture. AllL light bric-a-brac, pic- tures painted in water colors and every. thing of this order should be tabooed. Posters in dull black frames. Venetian iron and rich, dark pottery are most charming, and dark rugs over a pol- ished floor the most satisfactory cov- ering. COLORING _SOUPS, BERNAISE SAUCE (Mrs. V. D.)—Variation in the coloring of soups is had by the admix- ture of a 'l’:l“ quantity of highly ccl- ored vegetable or prepared paste. Grated carrot is used for amber soup, a few leaves of spinach imparts a deli- cate green, tomatoes shades of red, ac- cording to quantity used, burnt sugar or browned flour a creamy chocclate color, and a pinch .of curry powder a rich golden yellow. The spinach should be washed and steamed In just enough water to extract the Juice and prevent burning. Strain the juice and add to the soup just before seérving. This is pasticularly desirable in coloring mock turtle, celery, potatc or onion soups. Crotens or bread sticks are usually served with all soups except oyster soup and the heavy creamy sorts. To make Bernaise sauce simmer to- gethér one gill each of white wine and tarragon vinegars, one small white onion chopped fine, one teaspoontul of peppercorns and a dash of cayenne: simmer until the liquid is reduced one- half. Set aside to cool for several min- utes, then stir in the slightly beaten yolks of two fresh eggs. Set the sauce- Ran in a basin of beiling water, add slowly two tablespoonfuls of soft but- ter, stirring constantly. When the mixture begins to thicken draw to the back of the stove and stir until smooth and creamy; if cooked too rapidly the sauce will be thin and stringy. Strain into a warm gravy boat and serve. ‘Whenever obtainable get the fresh tar- ragon, chop fine and add one teaspoon- ful to the mixture before simmering. As the fresh herb {s scarce even in city markets, housekeepers are forced to depend largely upon tarragon vinegar. TREATING MOTH PATCHES (Vie- lette).—From the description given of your trouble I think you are suffering from a torpid liver and defective cir- culation, and both internal and ex- ternal remedies are needful to effect reliei. The brown spots or moth vatches are indications of sluggish eir- culation in the capillaries of the skin, which has caused the deposit of col- oring matter to settle in spots in the layers of the epidermis. To dislodge these disfiguring patches will require time and persistent effort, but I think it can be done and your health greatly improved as well. Begin the internal treatment by drinking at least a halt pint of hot. water every morning before breakfast. Get some dandelion liver pills and take one in the morning and another before retiring to reileve the liver and the blood of the accumulated impurities. Continue the use of these pills for at least six months, taking only one h day after the first three months. Twice each day, preferably morning and evening, massage over the stomach and abdomen to excite more rapid circulation and incidentally it will assist all the internal organs to perform their several functions with greater regularity. The movement should be rota followed by gentle kneading and the massage should be continued for at least twenty minutes. Be very careful of your diet, avoiding all foods which are llable to cause bii- jary disorders arising from a derange- ment of the liver. To assist in dis- lodging the patches on the face mors activity is needed here. Faclal mas- sage once each day will prove very beneficial if accompanied with just enough cold cream to prevent irritat- ing the skin, after which you may ap- ply a bleach to fade out the patches. This treatment may not entirely eradi- cate the discoloration, as it is of such long standing, still it will greatly im- prove things. Prepare as follows and apply with a brush of camel's hair: Take two ounces of witch hazel, two ounces orange flower water and ten grains of the coarse powder of cor- rosive sublimate and mix thoroughiy. This lotion is'a mineral poison and should be labeled and kept under lock and key to prevent accidents to chii- dren. CLARA B. (Firm Cheeks).—You certainly are in a bad way if you pos- sess all the woes you say you do and a tease of a brother besides. But never mind, you really are not as bad- ly off as vou think you are. If those marks are yellow and of fair size use: Oleate of copper.......15 grains Ointment of oxide of zinc..% oz Rub into the spots morning and night. If] on the other hand, your entire face needs a bleach, use: Bichloride of mercury in coarse POWAEr . :o.oen.. . .10 grains Distilled water. . «evssd pint Agitate the two together until a strong solution is obtained. Then add one-half ounce of glycerine. Apply with a sponge as often as agreeable. This is not strong enough to b and skin the face in average cases. It may be increased or reduced in strength by adding or taking from the amount of bichloride of mercury. And be sure to remefnber that mercury is a powerful poison and should be kept out of reach of children, in fact, away from _ all persons. 2. Now about the alcohol. I cer- tainly would not use too much of it, for the reason that it is ve drying ang it will do you very little good. In its place use an astringent water. Get eight ounces of orange flower water and one-fourth drachm of sim- ple tincture of benzoin. Drop the ben- zoin a little at u time into the orange flower water. Shake the bottle. The result will be a milky liquid. Dip a linen cloth into a little of this liquid and bathe the face. If it feels drawn add a little more orange flower water. Tincture of benzoin varies somewhat in strength. It should not feel uncom- fortable upon the face. When it does, and. pulls the skin, it is too powerful. By the way, it just occuited to me that there is a simple wash for a blotched skin that might be of value to you. It consists of one ounce of glycerine, half an ounce of rosemary water and twenty dreps of carbelic acld. Many times this is very effect- ual. 2. There are certain ways to rub the face and if you depart from these you are certainly doing yourself more harm than good. Go to some woman and have a face massage and watch and see just how she does it. An ob- ject lesson will help you far more than any advice I might give you. There are plenty of pure creams out all the time and if you will send me your name and address I will give you the names of them. “Edwarine.” “ 4. See the-advice given Same issue.