The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 12, 1905, Page 4

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. S —— 0 On Monday and Wednesday | nights at the Metropolitan Opera-house in New York $15,- in jewels gleam from famous horseshoe of par- boxcs. Mrs. Astor owns the costliest collection of gems, but I discarded her famous tiar Of all the Goulds, Mrs. J. has the most mag- nificent jewelry. Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney wears a plas- of diamonds. while Nirs. H. 000,000 the Georze tron McKay Twombly and Mrs. Wil- liam Do s Sloane gleam un- der rivieres or capes of dia- monds. Mrs. Perry wears emeralds that made old London Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish’'s pearl dog collar and dia- mond tiara arc opera night ade marks. stare, Belmont 1 | | important opera sea- the casual jeweled notes of famous nds. The s which flash from and arms of the the parterre circle m the purses of the kers. at foreigners an hear the very oWwn cities flock era-house, ad- hat an York's to to to outdazzle nt Garden, Lon- Opera-house in he jewels which grace the each Mondey and . his- untry over. Women Philadelphia, Bos- Denver and San Fran- ertained by jewels seldom see the opera nights and es- eir owners endeavor to in their gleaming a bill precedes a or when special some famous me sham even f which have a century. ness with- the new whereas a was e mod- 1 er sho with ere of diamonds costing ve t nu. s the necklace of former days. N ger does the mere 1ded wealth and goer may see all- of diamonds, though not precisely com- now replaced with in the vernacu- rs as a plas- ggerated mass of ver the entire te, to make a Rings are not used as E T £ former days, but ear- T pearls, are seen in ¢ about dis- ra is too retired r a headache. stomacher of large monds is ast win- bout her and the ©:2060200000 WORT @ TLIELLE0 Ly Lwicinel ivalte. $OL00850: HY or unworthy? I wonder if the truly good and generous ever ask their own hearts this question. It salve to conscience to deny d plaint of distress, fearing ay be unworthy. e wide world of sorrow we never we rever can gauge the length adth of a heartache; we cannot all that may lurk hidden be- the smiling face that will not al- worid to probe its secrets. se 2 man or woman presents & rearance, #t does not signity are well provided with a cash and awhen seeking a position sure to suggest that an at- grooming will be a polnt ia Shabby gentility is the last re- e of pride and the unearthing of relics to do duty whereby to deceive rid at large is often & process as f lears as are the caskets of o SRS The number of suicides where the bodics are neatly clothed, and yet akable pigns of starva- 2 thrill through us from We read of these things tion, = time to time. beautiful Mrs. John Jacob Astor, is renowndd for her distaste for gems. She seldom wears anything more con- spicuous than a string of pearls, al- though she has a full regalia includ- ing dog collar, ropes of pearls and head pieces. When Mrs. Astor first was married she had a peacock of diamonds and emeralds, but this pea- cock has not been seen in years. All the Vanderbilts are lavishly je eled. Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt who 8 beginning to take an interest in socioty again, has the finest black pearls in America. These large, per- foctly tched stones are worn on all occasion®, and often she adds an all- round crown of diamonds. Her daugh- ter-in-law, Mrs. Alfred Gwyne Vander- bilt, has as many changes of jewels as most women have changes of ciothes. Mrs. Vanderbilt has a crown of diamonds copied after an old Fiem- ish ducal coronet, but this is seldom worn. Mrs. Vanderbilt also has two igantic rubles set with one single dia- and she rejoices in wearing this le piece. Her sister- inald Vanderbilt, has shaped diamond of per- fect color, which is worth $20,000. More- ver, she has {wo emeralds of great and _an_unlimited quantity of pearls and diamonds. Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney, sister-in-law of the young Mrs. Vanderbilts, has a plastron of diamonds with diamond pendant. A tall tiara often graces her black hair. The older generation of Vanderbilts is even more generously provided. Mrs. H. McKay Twombly and Mrs. William Douglas Sloane, daughters of old Wil- liam H. Vanderbilt, have rivieres of diamonds of identically the same de- sign. Both have their tiaras and pearls. Mrs, W. Seward Webb, another sister, however, does not wear S0 many jewels. Of all the daughters-in-law ‘of the iate Jay Gould, Mrs. George Jay Gould owns the largest collection. Mrs. Gould’s pearls are a match for any lot in America, and she wears six ropes of them, after the fashion of Queen Mar- gherita of ITtaly. Owing to the cream- colored tints of her skin, pearls suit Mrs. Gould admirably. - In addition to her marvelous pearls, Mrs. Gould has a dog collar set with enormous emeralds. Mrs. Gould’s favorite tiara is very tall built on a foundation of diamonds. The HY OR and wonder that such could happen in communities where wealth is so lavish. Even where the death is not exactly sulcide, but the result, just the same, of privation, it seems so perfectly awful. o A woman or ' man too proud to beg, too honest to steal, tramps day after day seeking work, and being neatly and cleanly garbed, fails to excite the substantial sympathy that would prove a benefit. They cannot indulge the whine that i your true mendicant’s stock in trade and are perhaps turned away and positions awarded those most shabby in appearance, but not one-half 0 deserving or in such abso- lute need. You cannot judge and the beggar who doles out a pitiful yarn is more likely to" have his rags fairly wadded with bank bills than is the neat, but proud: man or woman to have enjoyed the luxury of a half sat- istying dinner. PR The unworthy candidates for bounty are the wretched mainsprings that close the averlues of sympathy and ald from those most worthy. People are deceived so often that a hardening pro- cess gradually closes about the hearts and well meaning of those whose purses can afford the luxury of gen- erosity. ; | RS FTARRS” RAVALE Wisrr 7 ArE Y SHPS SosER= OFWDEN[D To help those less fortunate than themselves should be the coveted pleas- ure of those favored of fortune. There is no happiness to equal that enjoyed through making others happy, The sunlight we cast into other lives con- centrates {ts rays, reflecting back in brighter,” purer force. We cannot sift' out or investigate every case gf need, but we can take it for granted that truth has been toid us and extend a helping ‘hand for hu- manity's sake. : s s+ a There are many struggling people from whom the world never hears a moan, people Who manage to keep up & certain air of respectability, but who néver know the true meaning of enjoy- ment, who never' have anything for which a heavy price In self-sacrifice-is mot paid, people whose lives are one “demnition grind” from the cradle fo the grave, but who neyer make a moan RS ALFRED CGHYNNE VANDERBZLT SN HER QUANMOND TR e O and must put up a smiling front, no matter how great the misery hushed thereby, “Tipping,” which so many condemn, is often the truest way of doing noblest charity. It may be contended that pro- prietors and managers should pay fair wages, but we all know that they do rot, and while there is no denying that these same proprietors wgx wealthy on rapid transit lines, vet the poor devil who tries his best to serve you gets no benefit from that; he looks to you for it. e s - In many of the most fashionable cafes TN PTER DIAXCOND TIARA FER ZEAOUS ZMERALDS ANV LPrARL S, of New York no wages are paid, the waiters depending solely upon the gen- erosity of the patrons. It is not right; it 1s not just; but to watch the faces of the poor devils as a patron comes in, to note the disappointment when they move by to another table more desir-" ably located, to watch the expression as they note this, Is to a thinking person abundant incentive to that kindness which is the one spark of the divine left in our natures. To t!p a servant is not encouraging beggary in my esteem, but an evidence that selfishness is not the predominat- ing trait controlling vs. I cannot im- agine any situation more embarrassing than for a handsomely gowned woman to dine with a man who takes up every farthing of the change as the waiter bands it on his silver tray. A woman of pride will never dine again with a man so thoughtless of others. No mat- ter how elaborate or well appointed the prongs are barbed with pear-shaped earls. P Probably the largest singl diamond in America is owned by Mrs. Elbridge T. Gerry, who has worn this yellowish stone for thirty years. It is set in an old-fashioned brooch surrounded by diamonds, and the surface of thé Gerry treasure ecuals that of a siiver dollar. Mrs. Gerry usually wears seolitaire ear- rings, diamonds of tremendous size and marveléus brilliancy. She has also a diamond necklace of great Beauty and brooches in profusion. There is no woman, barring Mrs. Astor, who has as many jewels at her command as Mrs. Ogden Mills. On the night of the last Willlam C. Whitney ball this social leader appeared at the opera-house in an apple-green velvet gown. Above her her” rose a towering crown of diamonds and pearls that was compared quite commonly to a picket fence. Her riviere of diamonds extend- ed from the base of her throat to her shoulder tips, a cape of diamonds rather than a mere necklace, and her bodice was covered by a metwork of the sparkling gems. Mzs. Mills is a small, slight woman, and under this wealth of diamonds she seemed lost. Mre. Mills' most intimate friends, Mrs. Edmund L. Baylies, born a Van Rens- selaer, has a crown of diamonds the genuineness of which many haye dared to question. This is a tall, impressive affalr, worthy of royalty, and Mrs. Baylles, a magnificently tall woman, wears her erown like a queen. Mrs. Perry Belmont displays at the opera her emeralds which created such a sensation two years ago in London. These magnificent green stones are worn in a row across her bodice and are wonderfully effective against white, Mrs. Belmont's faver- ite color. Her sister-in-law, Mrs. Ol- iver H. P. Belmont, has pearls and diamonds in conventional forms, relics of the days when she was Mrs. Wil- liam K. Vanderbilt. Mrs. Robert Goelet, a bride of six months, recelved from her husband a riviere of emeralds and diamonds des- tined to become a famous ornament on opera nights. The eight emeralds are each the size of quarters and are set in a maze of diamonds. The fame of Mrs. John R. Dresgel rests largely on her incomparabld jewels and she has two parures—the jeweler’'s term for a complete set of gems. Mrs. Drexel's turquoises ap- peal even to persons who do not like this opaque blue stone. _‘ of diamonds barbed quoises and a dog co is relieved by turquoises, w onally §eress her bosom is rcpe of @iamon. s from which dep pear-shaped turquoises. has also a complete monds and pearls in tities. One of the fa opera-house is monds, - which Nr often wears, Hermann Oelrichs h: for her hair which will ¢ meotion. This covers the - g panse of the back of her head s formed of four rows of pure white dia. Mrs. Oelrichs has a 4 lar of turqueises and unlike that worn by Mr tiara of generous pro Harry Lehr has a sunburst o3 the largest .of its sort in A + is five_inches in diameter and is aj- ways identified with her. Mrs. Stuyvesant Fisk wears an old-fashioned neck p dlamends said to be an heirloc e a rule, she is seen with a d of pearls about her neck centaining large diamond The leader of Morristown s Mrs. Theodore Frelinghuysen, of wears a tiara composed of graduat fleur-de-lis diamonds. The fleur-de-lis in the center has s ones on each side. Mrs. Hildre Bloodgood, anether well-known wo- man, has a tiara of diamond stars in graduated size—not unlike in the one worn by Mrs. Frelinghuy A part of the Van Nest millions h been invested in gems to deck 1t Mrs. Richard Gambrill, a handsome widow in the late thirties. Mrs. Ga brill’s ostrich fan, with sticks paved in diamonds, is one of the sights of the opera-house. Mrs. Gambrill has a splendid dog collar of diamonds and two interlaced circles of diamonds are often draped across her bodice. & Marvelous gems are owned by the ™ women of the Iselin, Burden and Cut- ting families. Mrs. James A. Burden wears a tall tlara and many fine dia- monds, and another “crowned head” is Mrs. Charles T. Barney, Willlam C. Whitney’s sister. ® No description of opera gems would be comolete without mention of the diamond necklace owned' by the ‘James R. Keene family. This necklace is composed of a sing string of twenty-seven perfectly matched dia- monds, Wwhich it took ten years to collect. The necklace has been worn by Mrs. Talbot J. Taylor, Mr. Keene's \ daughter, but she has retired from the whirl since her husband’s failure in bmsiness. £ Out_of town women who come to New York to gather fresh social heon- ors are often jeweled borately as the New York: . Joseph E. ‘Widener of Ph for instance, wears a he xmond dog and numerous yes of diamonds. Her friend, Mrs. W Carter, has pearls in various fo and Mrs. An- thony J. Drexel, er Philadel- phia woman, had enough diamonds and pearls to dazzle Berlin last sum- mer. Mrs, Drex ten wears an all- rourd crown of is. Mrs. Potter mer of Chicago has worn in New York her necklace of rubjes and diamonds and .tiara, the central stone of which is an eight= carat ruby. Mrs. George Crocker, who died in Newport last August, was a transplanted San Francisean and her best known gem was a pear-shaped pearl, with a pinkish cast. Two magnificent collections of gems were lost to the Metropoelitan Opera- house audiences when Mrs. John W. Mackay and Mrs. Bradley Martin went to London. Mrs. Martin owned a set of pearls supposed to have been wern by Marie Antoinette, and Mrs. Martin's diamonds were insured for $200,000. Mrs. Mackay's favorite gems are sapphires and she has a necklace of sapphires and diamonds and fiv brooches, which she used to wear against a gown of white brocade ten years ago. Last winter she displayed a few of these gems at the opera when she was the guest of Mrs. James Speyer. The occasional opera-goer, however, must not demand too much pulchri- tude behind the parterre's jeweled glory. The owners of the most superb gems are not necessarily the most beautiful women who frequent the great palace of song. Yet in the mat- ter of personal attractions the dow- agers of the Metropolitan compare favorably with similar circles in Lon- den, Paris or Milan. N ANNA S. RICHARDSON. ) UNWORTHY| dinner may have been, she leaves it with a feeling of hurt pride that makes her ashamed of having been the guest of such a one. Many women will go back to the cafe next day, hunt up the waiter and make good from her own purse, s e . Maids and bell boys of a hotel often have to coatribute to the support of several others, to whom every penny is 2 godsend, and if given in the right spirit no man’s or woman’s self-respect is injured by the sympathetic gener- osity of another. RN T People with too much money, or who are too successful in life, are likely to have little sympathy for those beneatli them socially. The servants of a hotel or cafe dare not speak of themselves, vet if .one cares to inquire the most pitiful tales of sickness and distress underiie the striving to please and win some substantial reward. ‘When one hears people blessed with all the goods of life prating of “not tipping on principle,” not giving be- cause of not knowing if the petitioner be worthy, the lofty tone of virtuous selfishness, fills my small soul with disgust. There is far more virtue in glving indiscriminately, If you will, than there is in a selfishness that masks unqualified stinginess under the hypoeritical cloak of “principle.” . - - Refusing aid indiscriminately were a far greater transgression, It were better to be deceived by a thousand who were unworthy than to refuse aid to one to whom life were all gloom We never regret the good we may do; even if treated with ingratitude. but refusing the mite, ‘we may learn later of the despair that led to suicide, when if we have any true hearts left i~ our =elfish bodies, we must know how little was asked of us. We cannot all give generously, but we can all give our little from time to time; we can help some‘one more un- fortunate than ourselyes, and when we e a case that appeals to us, do net wait until death. seals cold, despalring lips to send flowers that never did any corpse any good, but send a little sun- shine into struggling lives.. Tip eve body worse off than you are, and out worthy—if the last one be worthy, then you have done gome noble good. I notice people too stingy and selfish to tip prate of the principle eof the thing. Be kind, win love, and if you are deceived by those unworthy, keep on and still be kind, and there are lots of good folks on the wayside who are worthy. This may not be your God- fearing Christian's idea who wants to {rvestigate, but it is humanity, and methinks the recording angel will smile through his °tears—and well! he will do the rest! it of every tem nine may be un-