The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 23, 1904, Page 10

THE SAN FRA New colors are seen, mnew laces are shown and new mate- i on the counters, mark the new dresscs of the waning year. Lit- tle Lints on the new trimmings and how to use tuckings and bands of velvet. Utility gowns and gowns for nice wear. rials are spre > new id e NI i BY AUGUSTA box ded in the more cloth with a at the stinct and individual One cannot be com- ns will not per- the strong Each one from the 1able thing ad very pre:- re donned for no means nart day e trimmings, weight cloth alternate shir- A little dark in s and narrow shir- will believe it, erial. They were i ty and they con- ijge pufings put to- te silk cordings. It the contrasting sleeve The Deep Canvas Yokes. yoke is quite a y fall. It is made 1 canvas cut in little the edge, for it is an finished like a cape ¢ gcallops are bound K d cach is worked with a er. A big scallop of the can- = r each shouldér like an This style can be recom- any one who is making over ng @ new ome. and for dinner It is a sea- implicity, but vily. It means ve very handsome, beautifully made And, also, that well carried, as the Eng- ng of the English it may t Londoners are copy- an fashion in dress. There things that are distinctly d these the Londoners It is to Ameérica that men go for their shirt fashions, fer their sailors and wear hats. And it is to this i they come for their neat their bouffant petticoat styles, and for the very handsome nov- eity goods which the American looms excel 2 § and Paris are ahead in &or it can be trughfully stated that ther many styles in which America leads the world. One of the best of the gowns of the year is one that was made in a Fifth avenue establishment for a woman who goes out a great deal. It is a winter calling dress, made in a shade of brown known as walnut brown. The skirt has a very deep hem and, above the hem, there are four bands of velvet at different widths. These are sewed on along the upper edge only. The bands vary from one to four inches. Another gown had bands st | wider. The walst of this gown was a marvelous blouss falling in a great puff over a wide vel- wvet girdie. The front was open to show »st all of canary thread lace. Bo many gowns are trimmed with velvet bands headed with a little gold cording. And each hand is treated a little differently from the one above it. The gold braid is put on straight, or in swirls, or in scallops, or in a con- ‘ventional Grecian key design. This gives the gown a very handsome ap- pearance. Skirts Both Long and Short. Nearly all the skirts are made short if intended .for street wear, though here, again, one comes to the dissent- ing vote. There are women who will not wear the walking skirt, and for such women there is no skirt except the one that is of round length sweep- ing the floor in the back and more than touching in the front. These skirts, are undeniably elegant. And as they must be lifted from the ground there comes the petticoat question egain. The new petticoats are very bouf- fant to make the skirts set out. In- deed, many of them are so full and s0 abundantly ruffied as to look as though they were crinolined. They set out in a veritable cascade of ruf- fles and lace flounces. And, speaking of cascades and crin- olines, one comes to the question of lining the skirt. Shall it be crinolines or not? BSeveral of the new skirts show a very stiff lining, reminding one suspiciously of the crinoline. Others are rufled inside as well as outside to make them set out. But there is still another petticoat fad and one that has grown steadily in favor since its introduction some weeks ago. This fad is for the wired skirt. A light wire is run in the hem of the skirt; another wire is run In the skirt a few inch i c tyle ded to every who wa 1 handsome skirt. w dinner dresses are exquis- tely finished with lace and with flounces and all the trimmings which mark eason. But. thol ho want a 1 gown ca take an ev of voile, of liberty, of louisine, of taffeta or of figured silk— ny of t heavi evening materials will do—and can finish the skirt with tucks hree wide, flat tucks are laid ight above the hem. They are of rying idths and there is a very little embroigery above each. Or, in the case of strect dresses, there is no embroidery at all, but sometimes a tiny rim of velvet or of gold thread al the tucks. Nice Dinner Gowns. It is @ifficult to draw the line be- tween the nice street dress and the cinper gowns, between the toilets that are meant for reception wear and those that are for less ceremonious use. In thesé days of light colors and of fine materials’ one does not know ¥ re one begins and the other leaves A very nice dinner gown was made of china blue veiling. It was trimmed in conventional style with bends of embroidery runminggaround the neck and wrists. There was a band of em=- broidery down the front and a band of the same down each shoulder. The slceves were very large, with tucks at the upper part. One lovely pair of sleeves were ‘¢4t TEOWELED CRINADINE around and around just below the shoulder. They were laced together again with bands of black satin. They were cut again just above the wrist. And the cuff was laced on again with strappings of the black satin. One sleeve which suggested a re- vival was made of all-over lace. It was trimmed with two deep taffeta ruffies. One was sewed on above the elbow and the other below, so as to fall over the hand. A smaller ruffie :ave the bouffant effect to the shoul- er. How difficult it 1s to give more than an idea of the fashions that are to come! There is the cloth gown with leaves cut out .of velvet and applied with embroldery stitches, so as to make a border of the leaves. And there are little velvet flowers cut out and applied to the cloth. And, again, there is a_velvet flower upon a long stem, applied above the hem and again on the front of the waist. A great deal can be done with these vel- vet appliques. There are so many blues this season that one need not go begging for the right one. They lie on every hand, and Wedgwood blue 3 the ttiest and the most for the momeat. B:' a little r fancy will revert to royal blue 1d navy blue. These two blugs are exquisite in midwinter and they well deserve their long run of popularity. Frills and Buttons. Purple Is not quite as good style a8 it was, though there is always the heliotrope gown. But instead of purple re is pistache green and there is leaf green and there are the brighter green One cannot get very nice win- ter weig't cloths in all these sHades. In the evening fatrics orchid pink shines forth as being véry handsome for evening wear, and particularly is it nice for«dinners and where the lights are to be lrilllant. Orchid ' pink is trimmed with bands. of rose bordered with pipings of bla X. Trinkning -a gown of this description there are cream lace ruffles znd a chemisgtte worked with black siik. The button question continues to be an interesting cne, particularly as ap- plied to sleeves. One of e pretty sleeves of the week is buttoneéd all the way down the back. A frill of lace fallg down the outside, setting off the but- tons handsomely. The frill reaches from the shoulder to the walist, for the entire back of the sleeve is slit open, filled in with lace and buttoned up again with little brass buttons. Another gown, this one made of dark green louisine, has a sleeve that Is wrinkled to the elbow. It is slit and the slit is finigshed with a row of bullet buttons and a lace frill. Chiffon frills to match the gown are much used {nstead of the lace frill, and recall, was a tight-fitting waist with a little frill below the belt. It was all in ' one plece and was all buttoned down step in the right direction as far as The buttons were a feature of becomingness is concerned. The low the basque, as was the collar. ] The new basques are made much In panel and the snug hips are all of great Thelr slesves are Very benefit to the woman who wants to look it must be admitted that they show off just as' well, and in certain cases are the sleeves were trimmed with chiffon ruffles, also of brown. Gowns are so universally trimmed with lace that one looks for lace in- stinctively in examining a new gown. One dress was entirely finished in eta~ mine, the color being & very pretty shade of green. Upon the bust there was a blg bow of the w lined with silk and the ends ® trimmed with lace. ’ utn-tmmnflufi fashionable woman's ‘he : bave trouble with the tte, for the bouffant effects hide figure. feminine to a great extent. It was only a little while ago that fair woman lcnged to show off her form. she Is very anxious to disguise it a multitude of shirrings and with a very full skirt. And it is so, also, with the sleeves, “ISCO SUNDAY CALL. WHICH are a8 bouffant as they cin be . with the fullness creeping toward the shoulder. How long will It be before there Is the shoulder puff again, with i€ fullness , and breadth-and its width? The silhouette of the woman of the season is something There is the little waist, there 2re the wide shoulders, for which one must thank the Gibson girl, and there 5 the ffll wide skirt. _clinging and the waist is laced tightly, but the shoulders and the hem of the SKirt are both wide. The St. Louis Exposition has done a L deal for woman's styles, for {t . has made them more uniform. aves dapger of a general drifting in opposite directions, and it looked at one time as though pa nine world would go in lines, while the other half would cling to the tight skirts. The French dressmakers are making the very snug waists with the - little ug’nbfltunz basques. And the old- fashioned basque is dangerously near at hand agajn. The basque, if you will its hour The hips are There ‘of the femi- the crino- the same wav, E E § § | 8 e g E i it i g i H 4 i £ igfi [ g E s ! M H i 5 i ,i § i g 18 § ) i of £ ) gk : EEEE it i iy £ g, : H F ! § : E B 1Y § 8 g. £ & Lo _are oess SHOW GO Zy Corar"" 5 SOFT FRENCH 7AFFERA Rrezprron S CEaNGE B e WITH SATIA FAEE ing below the belt line. The hat should be a tall-crowned one, all waving plumes. The fitted hip yoke of lace, or of silk, with the boned bodice with its long. point in front, and the knotted fichu, furnishes the model for a style which 1s & most becoming one. It makes the figure look so very slender. ‘A Pointer on the New Styles. The long plain front panel is another boned bodice polnt, the long plain front tall end slender; and is the wo- & boon? i3 In a resume of the styles of the week ¢ or o shades the 0 W*l. Coque de s reddish tan, and to oo Ny & e of nar- ; : than a the s many eloth hangs : X n stinction. "~ : mmamu.mnmx 2 either . ed 'or piped or and m’m narrow ribbon -puffings, This is observed. bodice Bouffant silk petticoats with the hem lace, wired to make them set out more are fall- now a feature of every wardrobe, And cloth gowns trimmed with flow- ers cut out of silk, velvef, cloth or sil- ver or piece lace. 2 Looking a little ahead, one sees hand- some fur collarettes, reaching almost to the feet, built of ermine and trimmed with the loveliest black fur flowers cut bodily out of pieces of black fur. To this list of fashions should surely be added the new sleeves, which are so bewildering and so numerous. One of the latest is made of piece lace, fitted to the arm like the bark of the tree. But betv--n the elbow and the shoul- der there are three wide lace ruffles and on each ruffle there is a little ro- sette of black velvet. Around the brims of fall ha's are thrown wreaths of autumn leaves. These are in all the fall colors. deep green and deep red and bronze. They are made into garlands and are caught at the back with a great bow of velvet ribbon with very wide ends. The round hats with broad brims are par- ticularly pretty treated In this man- ner. One fall hat was depr#ved of its sum- mer trimming and in place of it there was a wreath of crimson roses set around the crown. A bunch of the roses nestled underneath and set off the hat. A chiffon veil, with a scal- loped border, was draped pretty well back upon the hat so that the ends trailed at the back over the hair. In the world of coming styles one no- tices more than anything else the even- ing gown, which is so charming that one can see little else. Its colors, its elaborate allover lace, its lace ruffles and its great variety of lace trimmings, these all go to make it so charming. Some Ideal Gowns for Fall. There are gowns that have the lace chemisette fasteried in the back under its rosette of blue tulle, all exquisitely trimmed with the smallest steel beads. These jetted or beaded rosettes for the back of the neck are lovely, but care must be taken that the beads are not heavy enough to weigh it down, or the rosette will sag instead of setting out smartly. Rosettes and balls of chiffon make a very pretty trimming. In the middle of each there can be a little ornament or the rosette can be round and designed to stand out smartly at the back of the collar. These same globes in smaller size are pretty at one side of the yoke and are frequently seen also in the front of the girdle. The woman who knows how to pipe should use her talent for the finishing of bands of lace. She should run a lit- tle piping along both edges of the lace, and she should also pips the sleeve trimmings, the upper edges of the tucks and all other trimmings applied or inset. There ls a perfect rage for pipings and the narrow line of white or biue or black is a feature of all the new jowns. 5 French folds rank first as a trimming and these folds vary in width from tiny narrow folds to those that are wide and striking. There is a passion, also, for dangles of all kinds, and these hang suspended from different points in the waist, but particularly from the girdle, from the rosettes, from the vests and from the medallions. You ean get up a wonder- fully pretty gown by employing these dangles upon the front. 'nfere is a new note sounded In the waistcoat line. The most brilllant vests are being made of flannels of ‘gorgeous hues. These will be embroid- ered and liberally embellished with braided and cut-out designs. Some- thing really startiing is promised n fall gowns, along vest lines, fcr the vests of fall gowns. And who Is golng to build a fall dress should wait and see what IS to come. Vests of scarlet are bralded in gold and deep yellow vests are covered with jets. In the trimming line there are spangled passementeries, which are yery good. One trimming Is built upon a basis of narrow scalloped lace. The entire lace s liberally spangled with jet until it forms almost one solid trimming. This is used {n rows upon the skirt. A pretty brown silk dress for early fall has a deep flounce, upon which are applied lace roses, cut out and appli- qued to the flounce. Heading this flounce there is a band of spangled jet. Another gown is built of black cloth with a deep foot flounce, all laid in side plaits. The only trimming con- sists of black braid two Inches wide, put on in swirls, three rows extending all the way around the skirt. Puffings of silk are greatly used. Rib- bon two inches wide is shirred along each edze and pulled up to make a very smart puff. Sometimes the shir string 1s run a quarter of an inch from the edge of the ribbon, so that there is a little beading of silk. One very smart Parisian gown Is trimmed above the hem with a band of ribbon eight inches wide. It is shirred in four places with a shirring running the entire length. This creates & series of little silk puffs, which are very smart indeed. Looking ahead into fall one can fore- cast the styles with some accuracy, ex- cept in the matter of sleeves, and here one fails completely, for the new sleeves are so varied that one can scarcely predict what is to come, Dame Fashion says, “Wait a few days and I “'fll_ show you the prettiest sleeve of Y