The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 9, 1904, Page 14

THE SAN MME. YALE'S Aimond Blossom OMPLEXION GREATEST TOILET LUXURY purifies, b ifies the p and water only perficially. Mme. ¥ale savs: A little Almond nplexion Cream should i every time ths face and hends are washed. It removes the dust, sool, grime, smut and smudge from the interstices of 2 and makes the surface oth &3 velvet. at home and when traveling , or en on an 1, and particu- de or moun- cts the skin burning rays injurious ef- Prevents redness of t of the face, due to ex- chapping, fever blisters tion of the skin. It est kuown specific for the fire out more anything else, s and prevents scars Indispensable fants and every mem- ¢ household. An exqui- jite natural beautifier. A grateful application after shaving. Excel- lent for massage purposes. Now in two sizes. Mme. Yale’s Almond Blossom Complexion Cream is now sold in two sizes by OWLDRUGCO. every At special price of 40C and 80c Y S give. T remember hearing a girl say she had liked a certain chap until she saw him eat ice cream from the end of a y “sort of lick not a hid- ure. with man. When you liculous in any man- our conduct out- ¥ to annihilate you. . he will pardon you more rez a crime than for meking a s self; more easily for wil- on his heart than awk- i on his dignity. He re until he is blue in the are a rap about are of slipping good manners,” for from his viewpoint this is unpardonable and un- forgivable, likes to feel his own importance and so he demands feminine manne He doesn’t go in for sweaters, shirt waists and independence. No. That reminds him too much of himself and he isn’'t flattered with the imitation. girl who can take care of herself eshing at times, but she isn’t as e steady diet, for she takes away that gratifying sense of protec- tion that he likes to feel toward a pretty woman. He doesn't enjoy being treated as though he were of minor consequence and a little something that could be dispensed with entirely. And then, too, he does not especially enjoy the brusque fashion in which he is more than apt to be treated. In short, he resents it for the world and 2ll like a cat whose fur has suddenly been brushed the wrong way. Don’t think it is the mascuiine girl he objects to, but the masculine way in which she does things. He demands gentleness and he gets a generous dose of brusqueness. So you see it is a better paying prop- osition for you to wear % trailing skirt, a picture hat and a becoming amount of gentleness. To be sure, the ma- jority of men do not condemn a woman then and there if they chance to hear her say “damn,” but it is an unpleas- ant surprise and one that they do not forget readily. It may be all fine and daisy to have a companion who can walk miles in the country, who can ride like a fiend and who can rough it as well if not better than he can. Yes, the is a jolly good fellow, but you couldn’t see him for dust if any one proposed that he walk to the altar with her. Not for him. The childish youngster who understands the art of olding up yards of fluffy lace and who nnot hem without asking his advice s the one he invites to accompany him on this journey, and he thoroughly enjoys being her faithful Fido, for she has a charming, artless way of tickling hie vanity. Flatter a man and you can do almost anything with him. He needs smoothing and soothing with an occa- sional scratch just by way of contrast. You cannot bluff him half so easily as you can wheedle him. In fact, if you are past master In the art you can nearly always wheedle'a man into falling in love with you. . Flee from loudness in any form as you would flee from a deadly pest. It is worse than foolish to wear gaudy apparel, to saturate yourself with per- fume and then to cap the climax by talking for the benefit of the entire room or car. A man may turn about and look at you, may even ogle you, but he is thinking “heavens, another freak turned loose!™ Rest assured he isn’t thinking anything complimentary. Jt may not be a crime to hold your petticoats six inches higher than is ab- eolutely mecessary, but if you do it you most certainly cannot expect on- S lookers to grin openly. On the other hand avoid belng a for she is about the limit, you . If you are eternally and forever ng for trouble you are almost sure to find it, and the girl who goes about with 2 chip on her shoulder walting for an opportunity to spub a man is about the most distasteful bit of femininity other than stare rudely and that a n can meet in a month of Sunda Try to be jolly and genial and natural and you can't go far wreng. Assumed haughtiness is cor- dially hated by everybody, while quiet dignity never fails to be admired. It goes without saying that every man likes a coquette. There is some- thing irresistible about the lassie who knows how to hand a cup of.tea with a smile, who can turn aside an awkward remark at the right minute, or who can relieve an unpleasant situation without an instant’s nesitation. To ordinary man all these parlor tricks border on the magic, and he cannot offer her his hand and heart soon enough. If you Miss Up-to-Date would be honest with yourself you would admit that your manners like your frocks are chosen to please a man or may be men. So it probably wouldn’t do any harm to get on his side of the looking glass and observe yourself as you real- ly are. You wear a pose as you would a color—because you consider it be- coming. If you would only take the trouble to remember that man admires gentleness, modesty and cordlality, your trials and tribulations would be greatly diminished, for these qualities should be natural. Even if they are not, they may be cultivated and it is well worth while for they sum up the masculine idea of feminine manners. Answers to Correspondents B — X PROPERLY POWDERING THE FACE (Violet)—The seemingly simple things of life are those most habitually neglected or, at best, imperfectly per- formed, and yet how often we note this with a feeling of regret when some trifie spoils an otherwise perfect whole. Powdering the face may seem ridicu- lously easy and yet few know how to do it well. A hurried dab with visible traces of the powder everywhere is a common fault. The woman who knows the value of trifles puts thought and delicacy of touch in the work, and this is the secret of success. She selects a powder best suited to her mnatural complexion, but never pure white no matter how fair her skin may be. The darkest shade of cream is best for the average skin. Before arranging the hair the forehead, neck and other parts next to the hair are to be powdered, then any particles which settle on the hair may be brushed away when comb- ing the hair. Then, seated In a strong light, the powder is deftly applied over the entire face and neck, and hereon hangs the tile. Instead of rub- bing it in or twirling it on with a down puff in the usual way the powader should be patted on very gently. The correct motion is a direct pat against the skin; this prevents a rough patchy look which is caused by the powder lodging on the slightly roughened cuti- cle; either a sliding upward or down= ward stroke will produce it. If inad< vertently any powder clings and showsa white lines, a tiny sponge moistened i3 wiped over the spot, which is then re- powdered. A tiny brush removes any powder from the eyebrows and lnhea and incidentally keeps the arch of th former in a perfect curve. The fastidi- ous woman, realizing the possibility of impurities in the ordinary powder puff, selects either the inexpensive puffs,ot Turkish cloth, which may be cleaned or thrown away often, or buys a half- pound package of the best absorbent cotton and uses a small wad each time, thus insuring absolute cleanliness. STAINED FINGER NAILS (Practl- cal)—Housekeepers who do more or less of their own work exposing their hands, as they must, to extreme changes of hot and cold water, find as you do that the nails are the most dif- ficult part to keep clean. I sympa- thize with your ambition to have pretty clean hands and know how you are distressed over the nails which are so badly stained underneath. I think, however, a change in your way of car- ing for your hands will work a change in their appearance. Harsh acids are largely responsible for much of the dis- coloration which cannot be eradicated. The delicate enamel which covers the nail, designed to protect the fiber'from stain, has been destroyed by the com- bined action of lemon juice and alcohol, - hence the stains. The open fibers ab- sorb everything touched and the ap- plication of more acid or soaping to clean the nails only makes thie matter worge. While lemon juice 18 excellent used in moderation, its daily use in the unadulterated state will spoil the prettiest nails. Another point: Never scrape beneah the nails with any sharp blade, always use a pointed ivory or orange wood sticks, To clean the nails soak the finger tips in a bowl of tepid water for five minutes and with a nail brush clean “'x all loose grime terferes with the circulation of the blood, weakening and discoloring the hair, restoration to healthy conditions will usually be followed by a new growth of hair of the natural color. Assuming that no actual scalp dise exists and that your condition = arise from a delicate nervous state and imperfect circulation, I would suggest that you massage the scalp every night and morning—this is impertant to ex- cite an abundant blood supply to the parts. Brushing will not answer the same purpose although it is very es- sential. When massaging do not mere- ly rub the scalp, but pick the scalp up in a pinching motion between the thumb and fingers. Have prepared a tonic consisting of one ounce of olive ofl, one ounce oil of rosemary, one ounce of rock sulphur broken in small pleces, three ounces tincture of can- tharides and six ounces of bay rum. Rub this well into the scaip daily. It is designed to retard the coming of gray hair as well as to promote the growth of new hair. UTILIZING OLD GLOVES (Thirty). Belleving that a penny saved is a penny earned the clever maid learns how to make the most of her posses- sions. You may utilize the stock of eighteen button length gloves in the making of the smartest new belts and strap appligue and button trimmings for your early fall suits. As the gloves are of suede it will work nicely. Real- izing that the crush belt is no longer new, though very popular, the clever maid gives the mode a new twist by adorning the center of the back and ends near the buckle with conven- tonal applique desizns cut from a around the nalils and under them; then brush again with equal parts of lemon juice and water, rinse and wash away all the dry acid; then rub the nails, es- pecially underneath, with vaseline. At night wear loose gloves with inside of finger tips daubed with carbolated vas- eline to soften the nails, draw out the remaining stain and induce a healthy growth. Prepare this lotion and rub into the hands and nalls several times daily, after, washing. Mix one-half ounce of glycerin, ten grains of tan- nic acld and two ounces of rose water. RETARDING GRAY HAIR (Twen- ty-three)—This subject has been given consideration before in this depart- ment, but I am glad to help you if I can. I am sorry you did not tell me more about yourself—your general health, mode of living, etc, them I might advise you better. It is rather unusual for the hair to begin to turn gray at twenty-three and I suggest that you consult a skilled dermatologist if one is within reach, and without de- lay. A thorough and skillful examin- ation of the scalp may reveal the trouble and its cause. Grayness may be briefly classified as senile and pre- mature; for the former there is no remedy but dye, but for the latter, which occurs at any period before the fortieth year of life as the result of any disease of the scalp or body which In- ir z3 LI T TLE wao GETS A SEAT rPTODEST TN G- AWy S THE s P Sre=xr crz. contrasiing shade of colored kid which will also harmonize with the suit. Per- sian effects are gained by the use of bits of black kid and embroidery cloth. Eyelet work may be simulated by ap- plied eyelets (do not cut the kid out as it wealkens the belt and causes it to stretch In awkward lines) outlined with floss or tiny steel beads. The daintiest belts can be made from the white suede thickly studded with mock Jewels and embroidery, and worn with black or white gowns the effect is par- ticularly good. The cutest little straps of kid stretched with heavy silk in the same or contrasting color and studded with several small or one large metal button may be utilized to give a smart touch to the goif skirt or scarlet vest. Remodel the otd white cloth skirt by making it into a modish evening jacket with collar and sleeve frills of a firm net, richly decorated with an applied design cut from scraps of white kid. The arm part of the gloves is carefully ripped open at the seam, stretched and pinned out smoothly on an even sur- face and cleaned with magnesia rubbed on with a white woolen rag. Then, by the aid of paper patterns of the cor- rect size any desired article is cut without the waste of material. MASSAGING A SCAR (Madeline)— The scar on the face resulting from lancing an abscess on the lower jaw can be made less conspicuous by a dally system of massage as soon as the wound is perfectly healed. The deep indentation which you fear wiil result from the flesh adhering to the bone at the point of puncture and to prevent this exercise is absolutely necessary. This keeps the tissues:free and by us- ing a pure skin food in connection with the massage the wasted tissues will be built up and normal color more guickly restored. To reach the minor tissues and thus counteract the tendency to fasten to the bone the rotary move- ment is most valuable, finishing it with a gentle picking up of the flesh be- ¢ween the thumb and fingers to tone up the relaxed muscles. Anoint the scar with the skin food, always pre- ceding this treatment by a warm face bath, and with the finger tips per- form a rotary movement over the jaw bone, starting from the center of the chin up to the temple, bestowing extra care on the scar. Then repeat, plac- ing the fingers a trifle higher up, con- tinuing until the entire cheek has been gone over several times, terminating each time at the temple; then resort to the gentle kneading and picking up of the flesh. Several times daily you may gently knead the tissues by placing the finger on the scar and moving it from side to side. Three or four revolutions each time will be sufficient. TREATING BUSHY EYEBROWS (Eudora).—Eyebrows that are so dark and bushy that they give an ugly, scowling expression to the face are certainly distressing, but I think you can do much to render them more-en- durable by careful training. They should never be touched with oll un- less absolutely necessary; should they be very stiff a trifle of oil will do no harm. The daily application, during years, of pomades and similar sub- stances has rendered your eyebrows ir- regular and promoted rapid growth, for every tiny hair has been overnour- ished. There are two effective ways of restoring the contour of the brows. One. the removal of the irregular halrs by electrolysis or by pull then out a few at a time. B <'nr.h 3 .Im\»'n» r, i er case that the alr 1s really ::n.elol:“(ha growth will be stiffer than the f 1f from location or by reason of the number neither plan sug- gested is feasible, do not ta ith the hairs, but endeavor to ¢ the brows ¥ e atisfac form. When wash a wiping the face oke the brows out- temples, remembering ote.” Moisten never negl ward towa that “as a twi the eyebrows seve daily with bay rum or with wat with a emall brush stroke the hairs outward from the center above the nose, always trying to force the hairs into a pretty curve, € A B L B NECKLACES thin FASHION (Lena)—A is rather and long n » anxiety 1If you will st r and adopt only such u i your style and mne a positive blessing to the swan-like throat, enabling du low or round neck yet preserve a dainty co tion where most needed. The fad fc read neck- laces of all kinds Is a pretty idea Wi as yet shows no signs of abatement. Gold beads are given first choice, al- though the revival of coral has brought forward a strong rival. Coral is strung either with a clasp of gold or, beads of gold and coral are strung alternately. Turquoise, ‘pearl and I gold links set with real or mock ge' are popular in prices and cualities to suit all s. All manner of art nonveau de- are shown, but iIf you care for pone of these a band of maline with two full rosettes at the back with tiny eweled pins in the center, front and ack is dainty completion. TRAVE (Hand Bags).—What- ever else you economize on, do not de it on traveling-bags. There is some- thing very ordinary looking about cheap suit cases, bags and trunks. As a rule the English made bags are the best,the most commodious and the most serviceable, so it is an economy in the long run to purchase them. The pri all depends upon the size leather. For a lady I should say & 40- inch tray trunk would not be amiss and you should get a good one for twenty or twenty-two dollars. A sult case depends upon the linen or leather lining, but you can get one plenty good and one that will last years for twelve or fifteen dollars. Do not be foolish enough to think this high priced, for it really is not as you will discover tem years hence. EMMA J. (To keep hair in curf)e— Always select curlers made of rubbes, for there is a pecullar quality about rubber that attracts the hair and cofle it naturally about the waver. Take an egg, beat it slightly and add a halt- teacup of cold tea. Wet the hair that is to be waved and place the curler close to the head. Begin to wind the hair over, not forward toward the face, but back instead. Be sure to keep the hair smooth and to make it as near like a natural curl as you can, for this wave will stay in for a week even in the warmest weather, and you ought to do It In the most becoming way pos- sible. MOTHER (Socks).—If you want te keep your small son in short socks throughout the winter make some snug leggings that button down the sides and put them on him when you take him out at night, in the raln or when it is particularly cold. White ones with white buttons are quite smart, especially when worn with white pique, but as they are difficult to keep white and clean it is a good thing to have a neat black pair on hand. PUZZLED (Remcmbering birth- days).—It all depends upon how well you know your friend. As a rule it is not necessary to give a man a birth- day gift, but, as Isaid before, it all de- pends upon circumstances. A book is always appropriate, but if you wish to make it more personal, select some simple piece of jewelry, such as a wateh fcb or cuff buttons. They are not expensive and are not only nice to have, but absolutely necessary. BRIDE (Gifts).—A bride should ac- knowledge her gifts as soon as possi- ble after she has received them. No, a card 1s not sufficient. Instead write a graceful little note thanking the donor, for this; when you stop to consider, is the least you could do under the cir- cumstances. MRS. J. N. (Callers).—It does not make any difference whether you are *at home or not when your neighbors call, the obligation s there just the same, and. you should return the call within the customary time. HARRIET (Embroidery). — Punch work is very simple and very effective and not at all expensive. Yes, it is done in colors or in white, just as you pleage, but the sudden craze of the hour is for elaborate embroidery and braldings and the colors are very vivid,