The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 9, 1904, Page 10

R P WEEEARSUE T A TOe TN All the new Paris Models and the gowns at the exposition »w the big, full, high puff and e is every indication that it will be the popular style by win- ter. Women who have pre- served their gowns of ten years ago can now get them out and wear them without alteration. A season of silk BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. L dency beautiful th of the geason are due that three of the Jerse gowns are quite ctive. the full high shoulder puff; in the new shades of biscuit and burnt corn color, and what is q noticeable, all are made of silk. They are of taffeta, moire and brocade. So by this mark one can trace the coming tashions. JLook around and you w! soe that the mew gowns are made of silk and that all have the high shou der puff. Burely there is no woman who has forgotten this high shoulder which is new yet old. It was the constant vogue from 1890 to 1800. For nearly ten years it raged more or less and was at its wery height in '95. Surely no fashion ever bad so long a stay and no fashipn was ever one-half as popular. All women, young and old, great and small, wore the big shoulder and those who walked in the front rank of fash- fon wore it emartly crinollned. It was claimed for the big shoulder puff that it made women very wide in the shoulder, and that it made the waist seem very small by comparison Anyway, it continued in vogue for ten years and died hard. Then it disappeared and the history of the saggy, baggy sleeve of the past five years is well known. And now, lo and behold, the full puff shoulder is back and the new Paris models look wvery much like those of ten years ago. This sleeve, which is called a mutton leg, because it looks 8o very much like & leg of mutton, with the big part of the leg at the shoulder, is worn with cloth gowns and with silk dresses. It s beginning to come in with the new tion gowns and one sees it creep- ing into the coat sleeves. As yet one cannot afford to have all one's fall gowns made in this way, for fear it may not be permanent, but it would be a very good thing to have one or two fashioned with the high shoul- der, for it is very likely that by spring there will be no other sleeves seen or used. Tips for Prudent Dressers. Prudent women are making the new £all gowns.out of material with a yard or two to spare. This yard or two is Jaid away carefully, so as not to fade the goods; and, in.time, it may come in handy for new sleeves or for big sleeve puffs put on at the shoulder. The French puff shows the big full #leeve set into the armhole In big side plaitings. The sleeve is now pulled out WITH HISH POFF A ; & ey = = AMNTOINETTE GOW MARI\E BYes E SEws full so as to set out as though it were crinolined. It is very tight below the puff and quite hugs the arm all the way to the wrist. While engrossed with the full sleeve Dame Fashion has allowed herself to drift into the silk world, and so far has she ventured that it is doubtful if she herself is aware how completely she is committed to the wearing of silk. S selects her dinner gown in the rict hued silks of medium colors, claret for example, and leaf green and cafe au lait. And for receptions and nice out-of- door dresses she chooses the stately black silks, selecting moire, gros grain, Ottoman weave, corded and brocaded and figured eilks, while for other wear she chooses taffetas of various colors and kinds. And it {s astonishing what one can do with taffeta. A woman, seeing a bar- gain in cloud-colored taffeta of the shade we used to call steel, purchased enough of it for a complete suit. It was of the soft grade of taffeta—the kind which, though lustrous, does not wrin- kle and can be crushed in the hands and smoothed out again without injury. It does not stiffen when wet, and it wears, if not like iron, certainly almost as well as poplin, and-this is no exag- geration. Those who doubt can try a good grade soft taffeta. Well, this woman after she had pur- chased her soft cloud-colored taffeta went to work upon it, cutting out the sweep skirt with home scissors. She let it just swing clear from the floor the same length all the year around. Then she trimmed it with three knife- plaited ruffies set far apart and looking as quaint as you please. She fitted the hips snugly and strapped the geams with strappings of taffeta. The walist, since the gown is for fall, is cut open in Eton shape looking a little like a Directoire coat. There are wide, smart turnback revers and theré is a deep collar of taffeta trim- med with a ruffie of the same.. The sleeves are big mutton leg with the wide part of the leg at the shoulder. But the prettiest part of all is the vest or shirt waist which goes with it. 1t is made of corn cream colored China silk and the whole front is ruf- fled with Point de Flanders lgce. It looks too quaintly sweet for anything with its wide girdle of cream .color. There is another girdle of black and there is a ruffled vest of black lace for the @ooler, days. The Coming Silk Gewn. Silk has a certain warmth of its own. Unlined it can be worn over something warmer.* Lined it is as good as cloth fér a cold day. Anyway, Dame Fashion, with her usual clever- ness, is preparing herself to wear silk, and whether over a knitted vest or over a wadded lining, it is very cer- tain that she will be seen a great many times during the coming winter in a dress of brocade rivaling the bro- cades which were so fashionable in the long ago. And this brings one to the Direc- toire coats, which are to be worn universally this winter by all women who can afford them. These coats, with their open fronts, wide girdles, long tails, smart gauntlets and big, handsome buttons, will be the coats of the season. For a Directoire coat the woman who dresses smartly will want at least four handsome buttons the size of a silver quarter. Those who go in for extremes can buy much larger buttons. A fashionable London wom- an has a Directoire coat of navy blue satin trimmed with four big steel but- tons on the front as big as half dal- lars. There are four more at the back, which has a postilion -effect. There is also a girdle which is caught in front with a big clasp. or winter wear this coat can be snugly padded and lined with Oriental silk. It is very smart to trim the’ hat with a twist of the same silk. It is silk, everything is silk, and it can be set down as a sure thing that the silk gown is here for a long stay. The shops are fllled with silks of varfous kinds and, as the summer silks are put away, there come winter weights that are just the thing for BROWN LEATHER AND S\LVER autumn and for the colder days later on. Even the foulards and the silks ot China and India are not banished en- tirely, for they make such fine fabrics for winter shirt wa China silk in all tints is made up with lace, with fagotting, with open hemstitching and with lattice work. And India silk ot fine ‘texture is made the ba for flouncings of 1 around the yoke, for vests of lace and for some of the most marvelous bodice trimmings that could be pictured To buy an India silk shirt waist no lonzer means something simple and ip- expensive. On the contrary, several of these walists retailed a few days ago in a New York store for $75 each. And an order was taken for one which was to cost $200. The owner is the wife of a steel king and the waist, which is in pale green India silk, is trimmed with cushion lace, upon whose bobbins there had been strung fish skin pearls, tiny turquoise and mock gems. All of the foulards are impressed into winter use and the light summer silks of the shops have been spirited away by cunning modistes to reappear later as fashionable shirt waists. From this sign the home dressmaker might take a hint and should she desire to cut up an old summer silk into new winter shirt waists she can do so with the full approval of the best modistes in town. A Season of Ruffles.! “It is the vogue of ruffles,” said an ultra-fashionable dressmaker the other day, “and all the nice gowns are ruffled. Some of them are trimmed with three wide ruffles around the bottom, each ruffle hemstitched. Others are trim- med with plain ruffles. It matters very little whether the ruffle be lace trim- med, trimmed with Oriental stuff, scal- Joped, or pinked or severely plain, so long as it is a ruffle!” And this same opinion was voiced some time ago by the dressmakers’ convention in New York and echoed by the dressmakers’ representatives at St. Louis. Ruffles will be the vogue, and never in all the history of dress were they as fashionable, A Paris dressmaker who made the trip across the gea to go to the exposi- tion said this to a representative of this newspaper the other day: “All Paris gowns will be trimmed with ruffles. That gown there,” pointing to a hand- some dress on exhibit, “affords a fine {llustration of the ruffled mode. “The skirt is trimmed with three knife-plaited ruffles six inches apart. The walst, which is an Eton, is ruffled over the shoulders and down the front. The sleeves are: finished with & wide ruffle at the wrist, lined with white and caught back upon the arm; and there s a neck ruffle lined with white here and there to show the lining. This gown, indeed, {llustrates well the com- ing vogue for ruffies. “From a close observation of the gowns at St. Louis,” said this author- ity, “I should say that your American fashions are.a little ahead of our Parls styles. By that I mean that where we are inclined to feel our way cautiously you step in boldly. We are just com- ing to a return of the shoulder puff, while you are using it right along. A E= =2 TAPES TRy PAN S AreL i ED T ~A V2 ST “T have noticed,” concluded she, “that all of your very best frocks are puffed out at the shoulder, very much as they were ten years ago. As for us, we have made only three models on this style, but they are being extensgively copied in Vienna, London and S§t. Petersburg, the ecities that, with Paris and New York, lead the world in styles.” It is impossible to pass the seasons by without noticing children's clothing and the navelties in children’s apparel. Those who contend that children have some ‘right in the matter of cloth- ing will surely be delighted at the ar- ray of children’s apparel spread out be- fore them this season. Perhaps the greatest innovation iIs in the matter of serge, that most useful material and the least expensive considering its wearing qualities. Suits for Boys and Girls. Little boys’ Russian suits, with full knickers and long-belted coat of serge are mong the attractive novelties in the shops. The serge is almost smooth upon the surface, is of fall weight and is made very natty by the enamel buttons and belt to match. In the granite colors there are some very nice things for boys of older growth. There is a Scottish granite suiting which looks like a coarse weave of canvas. It is slightly rough upon the surface, but has wearing qualities that cannot be duplicated anywhere, It comes in nub effect with flecks of brown and red upon the surface, and it can be. worn with colored shirts and colored tles. They are trylng to introduce the brown linen collar in boy's apparel and wixh some success. These collars are not generally placed on sale as yet. But, if any woman desires to fit her boy out in this manner, she can take a white linen collar, wide and well fit- ting, and after washing the starch out of it, she can then cut a pattern from it. And, in this manner she can obtain the pattern for a collar to be made out of light blye linen, of linen of a golden brown or tan or red. These collars are natty and are much worn by English boys and girls. BG PURPLE ROSE;TTES _ HLED PANSIES MIDDE-E o S T \ The vewt overcoat for a small boy Is the double-breasted variety, made out of cloth of dull gray, or deep blue, or steel color. It should be only medium weight, for the small Boy does not need a very heavy overcoat. It should be thick enough, but rather light and not too long. There is a very hapdsome English model, double-breasted and coming just below the knees, Handsome metal buttons are used upon boys’ coats as being more durable than cleth buttons, and this is true even in the case of the dressy black suit and the very nice dark blue suit. A certain tailor who makes clothing for the little boys of the 400 designates the following as a suitable wardrobe for a small boy: One navy blue serge sack sult with two pairs of trousers, one palr cut on the bloomer order bloused at the knee and the other pair snug-fitting knicker- bockers. With this should go a serge vest for wear on cooler days. One black broadcloth suit with coat cut on the Tuxedo order and knickers, Several nice white shirts should be a part of this suit. And there should be wide white embroidered collars and a dozen broad neckties in white and black, navy blue and brown. The boy should have a pepper and salt suit with bloomers and blouse. And with this he will wear a chemisette. This style’ of dress is worn for school by large boys, who filnd it com- fortable. The boy will need two coarse suits for every day wear and these should be cuf double breasted and buttoned with bone buttons. A small brown suit with vest, coat and knickerbockers will com- plete a very nice wardrobe. The small boy’s shoes are of much impertance. They come with exten- sion soles and wide toes. But these are hardly polite shoes for the dining-room and the small boy must put on slippers when he comes in the house to his meals, It is, therefore, a good thing to provide him with a pair of tan shoes of medium weight for fall wear and a pair of buttoned leather shoes and still another pair of the glossy tip variety for wear afternoons. The boy himself will see that these shoes do not ac- cumulate too rap in his ward- robe. All of the deal re making a special of boy ing th year and t little has hitherto usurped everything feels quite neglect- ed by comparison. For the little girl there s a long at, cut Russian style, with a white enamel belt. Make Your Own Trimmings. Those who are always on the lookout for trimmings should learn to make “cretes.” To make a crete take a frill of silk and scallop both edges. Now shirr it a little way from the edge, until the frill moderately full and set it upon the skirt. This will make the edges stand out like narrow ruffles each side of a full puff. And there are different ways of mak- ing cretes. They take silk and cut it in strips and double it. Both edges are now pinked or frilled, frayed, or scal- loped. The frill is now shirred over a narrow cording and the cord is pulled until the frill is just full enough. It is sewed on the skirt, or the waist, upside down, so that the edges will stand out in the smartest imaginable fashion. There are such varietles of small trimmings this year. One who does not follow the styles can have no idea of the number and the diversity of tiny decorations that come for gown trimmings. One sees them upom ho- tel plazzas where the women sit and work. And one sees them in the work- shops of the modistes, where the dain- tlest possible accessories of dress are being made. One very pretty styls of trimming calls for a button mold covered with silk. A mold about the size of & sil- ver quarter is covered with gray taf- feta and over the top of it there are drawn long threads, criss-crossing in pretty style. This button mold s now set in the middle of a shirred rosetts, the edges of which are frilled out. This makes a very pretty decoration for the trimming of a gown. They take button molds and cover them with silvered gauze or with tiny bits of cloth of silver. These make beautiful trimmings for dinner gowns. They can be worn alse upon the Directoire coats. They are used to give the double breasted effect and two rows of buttons are also at the back of the coat. The same is done with gold buttons and with buttons that are covered with jetted cloth. Nor does ingenuity stop here. One very enterprising dressmalker is taking round glass buttons and cov- ering them with cloth thickly studded with tiny jets. Thus she makes a ball which looks precisely like a jet ball And she takes the common flat pearl buttons of large size, covers them with silk and sews them on with blue sewing silk, going up and down through the button as though it had not been covered with silk. “I wish to impress upom my pa- trons,” said a Fifth avenue dressmak- er, “the value of the novelty laces. A great deal can be done with a lace that costs a comparatively small price. Very often such a lace is really better than a more expensive lace. “Take the cheap silvery there are many, and note how mensely effective they are upon ning drésses. One of my patrons wears a rope of pearls around throat looping it over her bodice and winding it around again and again, owns a gown which is trimmed with a band of silver lace around the neck and around the yoke. This sets off the pearls exquisitely and makes them look softer and more like the real” laces, and