The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 21, 1904, Page 10

10 THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. . - How to make your party gown and how many yards and at kind of material you will need if you want one of the fashionable little Dutch dresses of the winter. How to embroid- 2 gown and what or of . pett The color and you can gown in Oriental er your evenin, to do in the coats and gir will be your note braid notes. o+ BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. MANNING, first Louis, has sex at St electric col- all electric taken up the Madam's gown &£ 1 look exaWtly light! a fashionable mo- ifth avenue and the patron a gown was a shade e an electr The speaker wa ste of electric white. Threads woven through it like light. It was ered paillettes. A th a great cut silver from the waist. wears a great deal a c pink. It is very , 0 bright as to suggest red, but epths there is a cold glow in- stead of a warm red light. She chooses a wide girdle of pink trimmed ith silver braid. The neck is low, but ncircled w cut silver passemen- to vogue. They are light, blues remind- f blue white. In the day time e does not come out , but in the evening it r blue gauze has ted for one of the wo- Fair. It old-fashioned ed a wartime r the gowns worn =X For the waist the foxy girl of the period will lose sight of the old-fash- joned waists and will cut out a waist after one of her old shirt walst pat- ter She will choose a model that buttons in the back and she will see to it that the shoulders are built very low. shoulders can be lowered in ef- ip of lace in such extends down the arm to the elbow. Of course, there are wide sleeve puffs opening in a big bali s with the inner part filled with lace. The simple styles are really the most though not necessarily. the Many of them are positively nt, for the simple appearance is simple in name only. Really the cost is for the materijal Is elegant et ceteras of a kind that are icked up on every counter for a applying a s n that it The ballroom effects will bt flower- like. That is the only way to déscribe them. Each dress will be bullt after a flower and will be complete ,in its appearance. There will be no jarring note. One gown, a jonquil gown, is in pale yellow taffeta trimmed with ruf- fles of dyed lace of precisely the same tone, The belt is scarlet with an em- broidery of yellow and there is a little scarlet embroidery upon the waist. Scarlet and yellow give a gown a very flowerlike effect. Gowns Are Like Flowers. The flower gowns are S0 numerous this vear that one dressmaking estab- lishment has adopted the expedient of naming each gown before it goes out and the gowns are billed in that man- ner. Bach dress as it {s fitted and the trimmings added receives its flower name. A gown for a Washington woman is cailed a pond lilv dress. It you that there But if you gowns you their word. set out in bal- inly invite on one might letter of a Paris tron. Writing in known authority gown, madame, rt that goes with it. It aker to a p this wel “I send you end the hoop s madame does not want to wear the hoopskirt there is a stiff white taffeta petticoat, all ruffies, and another one. Both are ruffied and trimmed with ce and will act in place of the hoop- Making the Skirts Flare. It may be that we are coming to hoops. The tendency is that way. Over in Parie, where styles have the courage their convictions, the mention of hoops is quently heard, while, as for bustles, they certainly lie a foot deep upon the counters, ready for sale. The bustle agitation is one that will never quite die down. As long as there that are flat just so long re figure 1 bustles be brought forth to grace backs of the dresses. And with the round skirts they are certainly be- ing unlezs ope is too fat to wear : dance gown of the season is the gown simplex. And the more simplex It is a very wise girl who goes forth and buys enough net or bobbinette for a gown. She will need . yards. She can get it in any « but the prettiest is the silver or the glossy black. She will ma p this gown with rope shirrings round the hips, put on in ecircular ape. And she will trim it around the with three round ruffles. ruffles will be very full and will be gathered by kand. They will be edged with a border of Valenciennes or of other edging lace. Then there be 2 le Valenciennes at the head ch ruffie, is in green and white and a great glossy green taffeta sash is tled around the waist. All is cool in the green and white tones with a great string of gold beads around the neck for relief. And, speaking of gold beads, one may digress long enough to say that beads are worn in the daytime as well as in the evening and there are great strings of gems of all kinds. Strings of gold beads that fell almost to the floor were wound around the throat of a guest at the Queen’s garden party the other day. And it was Mrs. Arthur Paget/who in- augurated the custom of wearinz strings of pears in the daytime and great ropes of turquoise beads. The buylng of strings of beads is considered a good Investment these days and women who wish to enliven their costumes are investing in strings of silver, crystal and dull thick pink- ish enamel. A girl who is always exceedingly well dressed 1s now at work upon her trous- seau. She is buying material for the little Dutch dresses which are so much the style. It takes eight yards in the wide materials and from sixteen to twenty in the narrower stuffs. The Dutch dresses are nearly all of of instep length and are all made round with the fullness evenly distributed. The skirts are gathered or are plaited, or are so arranged that the hips are extremely full with the fullness laid flat, while it is allowed to flare around the foot. In a certain trousseau there is to be & wedding gown of white net, fine almost as lace. Yet it is not an expensive net, for it is partly cotton and partly silk. The bride has. with her own hands, run silver threads through the material, patiently work- ing upon it all the spring. A Wedding Gown Design. The wedding gown is the simplest of the simple. The gkirt is shirred on the hips, a style which is very effective even if not new. Around the foot there is a ruffle of net bordered with lace. But the prettiest feature is the petti- coat worn underneath. This petticoat is made of white lawn. And it is trimmed with a lace insertion through which a wide white ribbon is run. This ribbon is tied in a big bow upon the middle G of the a bow which shines through the gown. It was supposed, and it was hoped by not a few, that the day of trans- rront, parencles was past. But, truth to tell, they are as much in evidence as ever. In a study of the gown of the year, as seen in the shops and as noted upon the counters, one can count half a doz- en thin materials to one heavy one, And, so, in spite of the vogue for sat- ins, heavy siiks, for chiffon velvets and for the great variety of French dotted WHEN -SOU-GO-TO e \ \ DUNNERS-AND-DAN 5t and figured silks, one does see thin ffs. Transparencies that show lovely little floral figures are made prettiest evening and dancing gowns ever seen. Many of these dresses are made on the plcture order so that one looks just like an old-time picture with the same faded tones and the same striking characteristics. It is said that every woman who wants to dress well prays that she may be picturesque. - a under this Is worn the nea lace rufflled vest, while th round and semi-long, swin of the ground, yet almost tou The Hair Dressed Low. Handsome dresses are in the miodels in those days wi th a bun. An of to-day are ring the coming in of’the low s dressing the big, round ch ally demanded by women .of tresses, and it is not at all unu see the great coil of hair low upop the neck, either cov or not. This style is becoming to so many that it will probably grow more popular. Of course, the postillion tabs will not go out. But they come in There are the two little ta to the back of the belt w buttons. And there are the belts with danglers In the back, long shaped ornaments and silk with fringe hanging from w pieces. But the majority of the belts are girdle shaped, wide and on the crush order, extending well up under the arms. The neatness of this girdle fin- ish cannot be questioned, and it is no wonder that it is growing in popular estimatlon. Women who formerly thought one belt enough for the fall season are now supplying themselves with from six to sixteen. And this is no the ‘vogue abroac ways been the fairy tale. One woman lares that her ward- robe is quite made by her numerous girdles. Being short of figure, she plans them so that they come down be- low the belt, making a becoming point below the natural waist line. always extremely wide and in a great variety of ys fre great variety of mat gl THE? NG K ABIY NG il DINNER. HAT- ~g— suede leather, soft, glossy kid, and she uses satin. She makes girdles of silk and girdles of velvet, and she is never without a dozen that have no special —— 4 many ma yose. ch name, but are useful to slip on with any gown. One beautiful all around girdle, good for any emergency, is in black satin of raised turqu with a great deal embroidery upon it. At the back a two magnificent turquoise and gold buttons. Another belt, this one brought from Indla by one of the pretty; rich girls of soclety, is of heavy Indjan can- vas, with a wonderful embroidery done in rich colors upon it. This ig secured in the front under a great clasp, in which there is shown a whole Oriental scene. one 3 to Ba Beautiful Girdles and Clasp. Of course, the beauty of the girdle depends a great deal upon its buckle or clasp and that is one reason why the article is so expensive. One can buy the material for a handsome fitted gir- dle for a dollar or so. ut to purchase a buckle sets the purchaser back $10 or more. There are buckles that are beautiful enough for the handsomest jewel case and the woman who owns these exquisite affairs is as careful of them as of her diamonds. It is not alone with the street gown that the handsome girdle is worn, but with the evening and party dress. 1 . deed, many of the nicer dinner gowns quite depend for their glory upon the it « ¥ look like plcture she might as well lttie things of dressvine belt th sash, the girdle and the other waist Elve up. She aims not only to resemble gq pighings—while not secondary to the old paintings, but to copy them ex- actly, and many gowns are actual re- productions of the handsome works of art to be seen in the galleries. A particularly lovely picture gown, these are the neck trimmings, which are numerous and certainly varfed. One must by no means ignore the fichu, which is the handsomest thing of the‘seascn. One handsome fichu is up into the tifully, crochet de of white silk muslin, completely A net gown | copied from a painting of the last cen- 302 3¢ WI® TR UG SRR by hana and tury, shows a high, square crowned Gyer this embroidery there are raised And afterwar hat with Gainsborough tendencles. flowers in colors of rose. The whele is the touch of It is white with a long plume of blue. knotted upon the breast under a nd- t For a There is a Directoire coat, very long waisted, and tight upon the hips, and some rose made out of T colored the inexpensive satin ribbon, upon the petals of which erty, which Unless she can precisely like the the style observe a the ti of note the pretty Amer Neck. cy for throwing sor und the neck 1 . But e furs are brought ou als from which to Lovely Drawing-Room Gown.