The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 5, 1904, Page 11

an 1A THE EQUES TRIAN GIRL ‘and HER. MAAIR THE "SUN S SIMPLE AwnND COMFOR TABLE O many and so varied are the little perplexities that | enter into almost every woman's life without find- ing satisfactory solution, and so many and so unusual are | tters that constantly received from women who cannot find an answer to | their gquestions in any other | way, that The Sunday Call has | established this page devoted irely and exclusively to | “What Women Want to Know,” | ted by Madge Moore. Here every trial or tribula- tion of the mind and heart can | 1 joured out in the full con- | s wsness that it v receive se- us considerati — every | stion of fact or fiction. of | " ne and all its manifold | es tasks, of the inner sanc- | wry of a woman's life. finds | ready solution. Ladies, this page | is all your very own. What | v you? | se address all commu- | mications to Madge Moore, editor | | “What Women Want to Know,” Sunday Call, San Francisco. RIS A i T 1 who spends much of her ddle pays the n to the small- he realizes that ned by an bor would ught to the t 1d ready for s down the steps and left of the horse, g his head, with her right hand upon the pommel of the saddle.” Her crop is carried in ber right hand and pointg downward to the right. In this po: ready to mount easily and gracefully and that in itself is an accomplishment. The assistant stands close to the horse and with his left hand under her left foot raises her lightly to the level of the saddle, where, with a dex turn to the left, she takes her ses This method, with a few slight variations, is the one uni- versally used in this country, but in Europe the equestrian places her left foot into the folded hands of her groom and rest: hand on his shoulder. he straightens up, she is raised into position, but unless she is careful she may be raised just a bit too high and go completely over the saddle. The rides to please if she finde the cross-saddle more comfortable and convenient she s not hesitate to adopt it exclusive- Then 2gain, she rides to a canter or & trot as she prefers and makes herself just as comfortable as she possibly can. In riding to a trot much depends upon the adjustment of the stirrup, and the rules that the experienced horsewoman the side California girl herself an follows is to. use & stirrup long enough t» permit her to almost completely straighten her limb in the rise. Once she has mastered all these little tricks that mean so much, particularly 1 se is a strange one with an 1 gait, she turns her attention r attire. And this ghe knows full depends entirely upon the time and the place. For park wear she choses a cheviot or a kersey, and nine times out of ten selects black, although occarionally a Cafk brown or a navy blue finds its way into the recesses of “.verything that she wears is of the simplest and is strictly tail- ored. A standing linen collar with a black necktie is her prime favorite, though when she expects to ride miles the frequently Wwears a soft white stock or any of the severely cut collars that are turned out by the hundreds th days. Her boots, and she has good cause for fervent thanks, are no longer patent Jeather, but a dull kid, with a high Cuban heel. The patent leather ones were pretty and showy, but they were her closet. WOMEN likewise warm, and another considera- tion that was a good sized item to the average horsewoman. was their price and the rate at which they cracked and were relegated to the old clothes pile. In selecting her hat Miladi has a choice between two—the Derby and the sailor—but really they are as differen* as day is from night and should be worn when the season is apropos. For country wear the corduroy suits are what has taken her eye, for they do not show the dust and wear until the fourth or fifth generation. In fact; if she hunted for a montl of Sundays she could not find anything more ser- viceable or more nifty looking. Witk this suit she vulls a rough rider over her eyes, digs her russet-colored boots into her horse’s sides and races along enjoying life to the utmost. But whatever her costume or wher- ever her destination, the style of dress- ing her hair varies but little. For in- stance, the horsewoman considers it bad form to pile her hair on top of her head and run hatpins through smart looking Derby. First, last and always, she must wear her hair dressed And this she Coes in the simplest, easiest fashion. a low. If she chances to be the fortunate possessor of quantities of hair she fre- quently parts it in th middle, rolls either side back pret and softly ovér b ears and then catches it into the braid. Round and round she tw it, holding the coils firmly with one hand, and putting long bone hairpins where they will do the best work, for riding ag: st the wind with an elastic tugging and pulling every minute of the way sh fast and furious rate ar dly uncomfortable ing in the bargain. another style of low dressing that is popula nd - fetching. The hair is tied half way to the crown of the head, then brought over the bit of string that holds it and is coiled about and fastened firmly in place. And, by the way, Miss Equestrienne has a brand r wrinkle and one that delights her very soul. Pleces of string or tape are a decided nusance and are always difficult to cover neatly. When she brought it into position to tie it snugly she never failed to catch a stray hair or two, and if she refused to stand their pulling all during her ride, she was obliged to take it down and do it all over again. But now she has one the best of Mr. Halr. A small elastic, heavy and strong, answers in- stead of the string, and when she brings her hair to the desired point, she twists the elastic quickly about, fastens the two ends firmly together with a wire hairpin and there she is as snug as a bug in a rug. This trick has another advantage, too. Tapes and strorgs are always difficult to remove. It is hard to unfasten them and when they are slipped off they pull out a dozen or more hairs and create a decided disturbance. But' with the elastic 2 single. turn of the wrist ac- complishes all. When the hairpin is removed the two ends fall apart and the hair falls down the back without more ado. There is but one other fashion that horseback riders thoroughly approve of and that is the double Dutch braid. The hair is rolled on the sides or rip- ples softly back just as she pleases, but all is fastened in a snug braid that is fashioned -lengthwise of the head. If the elastic is used, it will stay-in place splendidly, but it has a most disagree- able fashion of slipping down unless held firmly in its place. Occasionally a black satin ribbon is substituted for the rubber and it is not only useful but is pretty as well, for the fluffy bow takes away some of thatl stiff look that seems to be a part of the mannish Derby. If, for any untold reason, she wishes to look particularly captivating, she fastens another bow a few inches above the bottom of her braid, and the ribbon entirely takes the place of halrpins and sidecombs and has a decidedly pleasing effect at the same time. So, girls, if you're thinking of riding this summer, try the double bow first, for it is warranted to prove more im- pertinent, more alluring and mgre cap- tivating. 3 THE .SAN' FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. ° SIDE VI\SEWwW FT WO TowsS Answers to Correspondents .L JESSE A.—Vines. Any flower that will grow quic! and that spreads would do nicely for your back porch. Morning glories are pretty and make a serviceable screen, but if you are tired of them try what is called a moon flower. It grows quickly and is hardy. In a month it will be creeping into every nook and cranny, and its only fault is that it will keep vou in- dustriously clipping. - Get the seeds at any good florist's shop and try them. MRS. H.—Dainty Dishes. A pafticu- larly nice dish, tempting and refresh- ing, is grape fruit. Doubtless you have served it with sherry, but there is a far nicer way to prepare it if you want a show course. Squeeze the juice of haif a dozen oranges, the juice of the grape fruit itself, and add as much juice of a pineapple as you like. Sweeten the whole with sugar to suit taste. Freeze until it is about the con. sistency of sherbet and place in the halves. As a finishing touch cut a ba- nana into bits and decorate each half with pieces, with now and again a piece of pineapple. It really is a deli- cious dish and is a very pretty one to set before a guest. BLEACH—Fair Hair. Bleaching Is always a failure where one is an ab- ject slave, and even then it is most difficult to keep the world from know- ing it. Peroxide in itself i8 not inju- rious, but the ammonia that is used with it makes the hair brittle and grad- uelly kills the roots. Soda is about as harmful and you will find that after you have psed it a’ few months your hair will come out at an alarming rate. However, there is a remedy that you may try and it is a very simple one as well. Squeeze the juice of three lemons in the rinsing water and wash the head thoroughly. Be careful, how- ever, that the ends of the hair do not get Into this water, for the contrast would then be quite as decided as be- fore, even though the hair as a whole would in all probability seem six or seven shades lighter. ANNIE—Pleurisy. Any disease of this kind is difficult to cure absolutely as You have discovered. It is useless to tell you to keep out of the wind and to wear warm clothing, for you only court sickness in that way. Chloro- form liniments are good in a way, but they merely soothe and after a time lose their effect. Paint the spot with tincture of iodine two or three nights in succession until the spot becomes tender. Then omit it & few nights. If you will keep this up for flve months it will certainly heal the spot and you will never be troubled again. It is a long treatment and you Will not be cured if you keep it up two or three weeks and then forget about it. But really it is not much trouble and the result is far reaching. MRS. H. M.—Pictures. Prints. of good photographs neatly framed are far better than poor oils or water colors. “ Any art store in'town carries dozens of fine prints in browns, greens and black and white, apd if you are WANT-/ ¥ undecided about framing them, let the house use its own judgment. Any house always looks bare without ple- tures, but it is far better to look at vacant walls than to gaze at so-called pictures that offend your eye. Tell your family that you want them to give you pictures for Christmas and your birthday and you will be sur- prised at the way your coliection will grow. BIOGRAPHY — Burned Leather. When you purchase a burning outfit you are treading on dangerous ground, although you may not he aware of the fact. Too much burndd work is a perfect abomination and makes a really nice piece appear cheap and tawdry. 1f the work fascinates you, give it away as fast as you finish it, reserving a fancy pillow, a piperack or a dainty bookshelf for your own use. Then it will look its very best. FADS—Brass. You are mistaken about brass lamps. To be suyre you can pay fancy prices for them, but they are to be had for reasonable ones as well. Tell a brass dealer you will pay $6 for a lamp and see how ny he will discover in the depths of a closet he didn't know he had. OIL BATH FOR CONVALESCENTS (Dorothy).—After a severe illness, when the body responds slowly fo nourishment, oil baths are invaluable in supplying the needful fat te the skin and underlying tissues. If the baths can be given by a professional, so much the better, for the thorough massage which always accompanies such applications will stimulate .the entire system. If the professional is not available one can take an oil bath one's self and it will prove very benefi- cial. Too many make the mistake of overworking the stomach when the nourishment baths should assist in the work of restoration. The best grade of olive oil may be used for the bath although professionals generally use cocoa butter. Three oil rubs may be taken each week, provided the oil or butter is well rubbed in. The body should be perfectly dry and almost free from the oil when the rubbing is completed. Before the application use a cleansing bath of warm water and soap, followed by a tonic bath of tepid salt water, then the cleansed pores will greedily drink in the oil. Just before retiring is the best time for such treat- ment, for the fatigue which the exer- tion brings is quickly forgotten in re- freshing sleep. While the oil should be applied to the entire body, the trunk should receive the most thor- ough manipulation and the largest quantity of oil. I cannot give the exact quantity of oil to be used each time, because of the difference in in- dividual needs, but the general rule is to use all the skin will absorb. NEW IDEAS IN CENTERPIECES (Elsie).—The best ideas in raffla work, aside from basket making, are the new embroideries. The very stiff conven- tional designs have been improved and added to by semi-natural forms. Among the very newest examples are the dining-table centerpieces, which possess mot only the - merit of being rich and artistic in appearance, but thoroughly practical, points the. housekeeper will appreciate. The fam- iliar fruit designs hitherto embroidered _in silks on tan linen have been simpli-. fled. A beautiful example shows dark red cherries and an oventurned basket as the decorative feature, embroidered entirely .in colored raffia on.a ground of fine twipe colored burlap, The edg- DOLBLE A RAID WOUND QUND AND. \ROUMD = SwaRT - DonT PUT SouR, IHAR. ON ToE o= ouvm meEars ing of coarse lace to match the color of the burlap is given a unique touch by small embroidered figures worked in gold threads at intervals of three or four inches. Another excellent de- sign is composed of oranges and grapes on a frosty green.ground. Since raffia work was first introduced clever designers have been constantly work- ing out new ideas until it promises to * ot preventing dentist’'s bills it THE SINGLE B OwW be more popular than ever for veranda pick-up work. The possibilities of the material are better understood, designs have gained in dignity of form and purpose until now really beautiful re- sults are obtainable, suitable for al most any room and particularly hai monious among summer furnishings. CARE OF TENDER GUMS (Ma- rie).—Your trouble is probably due to a harsh toothbrush and dentifrice and you have also rather overdone the cleaning. Three vigorous brush- ings daily is too much, especially when a very stiff brush is used. The gums are kept in a constant state of irritation by this method and lns(ez:ldl W increase them, as the loose fillings and tender gums indicate. To relieve the sore gums obtain one ounce of tincture of capsicum and apply to all the tender spots with a soft camel's hair brush. Be very particular to go around the edges of the gums Which show a tendency to recede from the teeth. For a few days, until the sore- ness is relieved, clean the teeth by washing with a bit of absorbent cot- ton wound on the end of an orange- wood stick, first dipping it into warm water and then into plain preeipitatéd chalk. Rinse the mouth, then -use dental floss to remove all particles from between the teeth and rinse thoroughly again. Discard your stiff tocthbrush and substitute one with soft, fine bristles. Have the follow- ing reliable tooth powder preparéd by your druggist: One-half ounce of or- ris root, one-fourth ounce of powder- ed white castile soap, one ounce of precipitated chalk and one-fourth ounce of cassia powder. Use this twice a day, at morniig and at night, SHIRT WAIST FASTENINGS (B. T. L.).—There is such a variety of fash- jonable -fastenings for the shirt waist this season that a woman is whimsical indeed who cannot find something to her liking. Of course there is the ever popular pearl button varying from the tiniest ball to the flat coin shape as large as a silver half dollar. The me- dium, dime size, is most practical, al- though the larger sizes are extremely smart on walsts of heavy linen. Then there are the pearl and metal sets, which are attached to the waist by means of a pin at the back, and need only be detached when the walist is cleaned, and then their removal is a decided advantage, enabling the laundress to iron the center boxplait and cuffs more perfectly than can be done when buttons are permanently attached, The small, slightly oblong bar pin, about an inch in length, which was quite the rage several seasons ago, has been revived and is shown in both gold and silver. The most dainty ones have a plain frosted surface set with a single pearl, colored gem or the lov liest bit of colored enamel. The fancy for hand-painted porcelain buttons of immense size is a fad among well- dressed women, and fortunate is the woman who can paint them herself, for the prices asked for them in the shops is so high as to preclude them from becoming common. A novelty of the season is the set of studs, oval or round, a haif inch in diameter, with belt _buckle to match, which is made of gun metal or silver set with a rather large opalescent center; these buckles are from one and one-half to two inches in diameter. Walsts of every class of ‘ material are_made up with the Dutch or blind closing, guileless of any visible fustenings, for those who prefer less display than provided by the orna- mental. fastenings mentioned. > — Photos by Stanford Studio (S THE usSeEFu D - TO MASSAGE THE BUST (V. T. L.)—When treating the bust for any reason always bear in mind that the manipulations and rémedies must be gentle and the pressure rather light to avoid bruising the delicate tissues, the result of which might cause dan- gerous developments. Massage and a pure skin food are invaluable for bust development if their use is persisted in. As reliminary for the abserp- tion of the skin food bathe the breasts with warm water and dry gently with a soft towel, then anoint with a lib- eral coating of the skin food. The massage is most essential, hence should not be done in a careless or hasty manner. Place the finger tips under the arm and bring forward to the center of tie bust, then abeve, bringing the fingers downward, from underneath upward and always to the center of the bust, until the entire sur- face is gone over several times. Then begin in a rotary movement around the left breast, bringing the movement gradually to the center; continue the manipulation for ten or fifteen min- utes, then treat the right breast in a ke manner.” Throtghout the move- ment use plenty orf the skin feod, for it will hasten the fllling out of the shrunken tissues and the exercise will send the blood bounding briskly through the veins, which alone means new life and vigor. In the morning bathe the bust with cold water to give tone-and firmness to the muscles; dry thoroughly, keeping up a rotary move- ment. A decided improvement should be noticed at the end of a month if you are faithful in the treatment as directed. ABOUT TIGHT CLOTHING (Mrs. T. N. J.)—The woman who is healthy and happy, and the terms are synony- mous, does not wear her clothing un- comfortably tight. She has grown wiser. Women's clothing is cumber- some enough at best, but when vanity and a mistaken sense of style prompt the wearing of tight shoes which dis- tort the feet, high collars which be- get throat troubles and cause the face to flush and darken and tight corsets and bands which force ugly lines about the hips and bust, then the woman of civilization is but a step removed from the women of China who hobble on maimed feet. Many women have an idea that comfort and untidy loose- ness of attire, coupled with lack of style, go hand in hand and are vic- tims of “nerves’ in consequence. How this wrong idea still obtaina, I can not Imagine, in view of the f#et that perfect cut and fit has made the loose outer garment and shirt waist artistic and a pronounced success for years past. women would apply this knowledge in the selection or making of other garments all might be as com- fortable as mw if it pinches, health garmen the corset is properly fitted and loose enough for perfect comfort, and shoes, belts, etc., fitted on the same principle, woman's health would be much better than it ifs. So long as women wear compressing clothing just so long will sufferin: umerous mental and physical result. An hour a day spent in C se will not undo the work of ten or twelve hours of im- proper liv hence the absurdity of btain better health stics when they e directly into the itted clothes. STAINS FROM GASOLINE (A. B. en's t C.)—1 fear vou ca t entirely eradi- cate the stain left around t spot cleaned with gasol Howéver, if the spot is very prominent it may be ren- dered less copspicuous by the following metkod, unless the gasoline has caused the color of the fabric to smirch, as is sometimes the case when the color is not absolutely f: To one pint of tepid water add fifteen drops of best household ammonia. Stretch the stained portion firmly into a large em- broidery hoop, have plenty of clean white cloths handy, and with a small wad of the fabric ke the garment moistened, but not too wet, go over ths stain rapidly and then rub dry with a clean, dry white cloth, changing this cloth as soon as it is slightly soiled. A new tooth brush with soft bristles, moistened with the ammoniated water, is very helpful in reaching inte the warp of the stained fabric and is to be preferred to a wad of the goods. Use the brush lightly to prevent “fuzzing’ the fabric. By holding a sheet of clean white blotting paper under the stain the moisture is rapidly absorbed and a further stain guarded against. If you prefer, you may rub French chalk free- 1y over the stain and allow it to remain on for several hours; then brush off. Grease is readily absorbed by this sub- stance and it may not be necessary to moisten the fabric. ADVERTISEMENTS. A BEAUTIFUL 3 o them. Dr. Charlies Flosh Food, the greatest 1 Dexatifiers to-day, !s the result of years o stody and experience by Dr. Charles o of high standing in his profession, For deveioping the bust or to make preast firm, large and beautiful -'ta pan equal it. To prevent the breast fromy .%um shouwM always use Dwy Charles Food after weaning baby. I§