The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 8, 1904, Page 11

» THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. TV I T 3 % iy and so varied are | tle perplexities that | er i almost every | fe without find- h‘ | | ing satistactory solution, and so unusual are are constantly from women not fnd an answer to | ir questions in any other |‘ v that The Sunday Call has tablishhed this devoted | . d sively to- | cn Want to Know,” | e Moore. 1 | | that letters 1 received al or tribula- mind and heart can out in the full con- it will receive se- | cration — every act or fiction. of and all its manifold 1 tasks, of the inner sanc- Here tion of the be pourcd every A f a woman's life, finds v 1y solution. Lad this page " all your very own. What | 1d you? Please address all commu- “ on » Mad, ocore, editor ‘ What Women Want to Know,” N Ii, san Francisco. e as odious a woman— be suffi- ingly, but sh others, people who any kind nothing 1s sweet odor complish this re- nstant attenti few drops of extract on to- n that it will cast its fragrance to-morrow. Nor a sachet bag and sewing it in & new frock do mot necessarily mean that both h been properly attend- ed to and ed no future considera- don That is not the way to possess sweet, clean-smelling clothes. Oh; ne. Tt requires a system peculiarly fits own, which te the initiated is° com- monly known as the “pad” method. e are big ones and little ones, hes and pads for chests. rere is & long list of them must be gone over at stated inter- pads for c vals or else thelr usefulness is lost. A ‘good sachet is one to be placed n e chiffonier, a 'dresser or among s—or, forsooth, it may be fitted ks 2nd suit cases if one is much globe-trotter. One has unlim- ted liberty so far as materials are ed, for something Inexpensive- le will answer the purpose well as a very elaborate s intended for home use oline will do nicely, ction may be as simple and plain s one likes. For example, cheesecloth 1 d with a wad- quilted with a white about a finishing frill. y and sweet, but point, may be ily opened and re- or three dexterous d the small powder ry nook and cranny. fts require most costly hing could be more tier than ribbon, ¢ two contrasting on, any width, by the sired, and fasten them y fancy stitch, or, better nd stitch. The un- ft, white China ntly laid over two cotton wadding erously with sachet pow- jers of Epr ge der If lace is to be used it should be sewed on the ribbon top as soon as the been turned over the wad- e white silk is pliable and s have the pad is tu a heavy silk or with bits of th k narsow ri bons the wadding may slip out of place, but: tiny bows, French knots or heavy stitches jwill hold the Whole firmly and securelf in place. Pads of all sizes and descriptions may be made to slip between articles of ~_//hai clothing. Any sheer fabric, such as ba- tiste or organdy, over pale colors is dainty and fetching, especially when it is finished with a wee ruffle of the thin material and decorated with the initial of the owner. A more sensible one is made of pale blue or a delicate pink lawn, and it is far less expensive, which is quite an it when they are being turned out esale and retail. Occasionally a ‘htfully fresh looking piece of fig- ured lawn may be discovered tucked eway among the remnants, and it not only lends itself beautifully to the cause, but never fails to create a good sion. for handkerchiefs, neckwear and gloves are nothing new and they are shioned almost identicaliy the same. ne cases, in fact, they are exactly me, the only difference being at two are made instead of one. Three strips of narrow ribbon are d on both and the two are con- ted by means of small bows. gown sachets are rather novel ority of people and, it must d, are not a positive neces- as the drawer pads should perme- fully and thoroughly. they are a smart toilet adjunct, especially so when fashioned from a Dresden ribbon with an allover set bags there is an endless Perhaps the most popular is the plain ribbon bow, with two loops turning each way. The ribbon is over- handed together, and just a suspicion of cotton placed in them. One side is fastened to the corset, but, of course, the other must be pinned or tucked into place every time the corset is put on. For this reason many prefer two flat lawn or linen strips, that are tacked on either side of the girdle. Another decided point in their favor is the ease with which they may be cleaned, for the lawn may be emptied, tubbed and be quite as good as new. This same kind may be tacked in waists, although inhaling perfume constantly, frequent- ly giving one a nasty headache. A good way to overcome this diffi- culty is to make a great fluffy bow and leave one end of the ribbon some six or eight inches in length. A round, well- filled bag is placed on the wrong side of the bow, and the ribbon pinned to the inside of the waist and hung away in the closet. Skirt sachets are simple in the ex- treme. A number of small bags may be run together out of any fancy rib- bon or silk that chances to be in the house and attached to a long plece of ribbon, which In turn is fastened to the skirt band at the waist. There may be many or few, just as one pleases, but care should always be taken to see that they are fastene@ well to the back of the skirt, else they will prove a de- cided annoyance. Small flowers are daintily and easily shaped, with tiny, well-filled bags at their back. In fact, sachets are made in so many and in such different styles that with little or no ingenuity one may have an endless variety of them, and with little trouble and -expense keep them sweet and fragrant. variety. Answers to Correspondents ENTERTAINING (Mrs. M.)—I would not hesitate one instant about giving a small dinner without the aid of a maid. Invite only those who will ac- cept your hospitality in the same spirit that it is given in. It would be a shame to deprive your friénds of a pleasant evening now and then, and you can manage very nicely if you will give it a little time and attention. For instance, any clear broth may be made the day before, and so may your dessert. Salad may be prepared early and In this way you need not rush yourself into a flurry. Place a small table near you and put the salad and crackers upon it and that will save time and steps. It is always the easiest and the pleasantest way to laugh an embarrassing situation away, for accidents will happen in the best regulated households. FRATERNITY HOUSE HOSPITAL- ITY (Elsie)—Under one condition alone may you dine at the fraternity house as the only Invited guest. Ascertain if the boys have what they call a “house mother,” and, if so, she will act as your chaperon, and a very de- lightful one you will find her, too. In all probability your host has already spoken to the “mother” about you, but neglected to tell you of his arrange- ments. DRESSMAKER (Lace Yokes)—The best way to make a lace yoke is to baste it on paper. You will find the lace will shape itself easier than in- sertlon, for one edge is naturally a bit wider and I am quite sure you will have no difficulty if you cut your pat- tern in mewspaper and baste the lace on. It is a great deal of work to whip the yoke, sleeves and ruffies by hand and it will look very well run up by machine. Certainly, if you are busy all day and have but your evenings, I would not hesitate a minute. Most of the expensive waists In shops are made by machine and no one thinks any- thing of it, so I would not if I were you. A DAINTY EVENING GOWN (Mary B.)—If you want something quite new and a dream of color, select for your evening gown shaded chiffon with lin- Ing of soft finished taffeta or Mlberty satin and all the lace the state of your purse will permit you to buy. Shaded chiffon comes in all the most becom- ing colers and is shaded from the palest to the darkest of the color. So per- fectly is the fabric dyed that each shade melts into the next and creates a most bewitching shimmer without the least tinge of garishness. A deli- cate shade of pinkish violet is charm- ing and the following mode is most appropriate for this airy'fabric: The skirt should be composed of three ac- cordion plaited flounces, the lightest shade nearest the belt and the edges of each flounce edged with one of the new ruchings of gauze ribbon. Motifs or bandings of lace may be applied to the flounce, although it would be a good deal llke “gilding gold.” The waist should be very full and of the plaited chiffon, and the deep round yoke extend deeply over the top of the arms, half way to the elbows. Be- low the lace portion falls a full, rather short, flowing sleeve of chiffon. To obtain the fluffy outward sweep about the foot, the drop lining should have a deep flounce covered with a mass of tiny plaited frills. The high girdle is made of wide liberty satin ribbon and lace, boned to hold it in place. Fash- fon demands that .all evening gowns shall be very long all"around. To tell the truth, it is something of a trick to walk gracefully in a skirt of such length, and the wise woman will have a few full dress rehearsals In private to acquire the art. Do not forget that the step must be with a gliding mo- tion to be graceful and successful. DARK CIRCLES UNDER. THE EYES. (Gladys)—DRrk circles under the eyes may be e beginning of some organic trouble, such as liver congestion, indigestion or lack of sleep and a general run-down condition of the system. Brunettes are particularly susceptible to heavy shadows around mLen the eyes even when there seems to be no actual reason for them, ' If satis- fled that your health is good, try to sleep an hour longer each night, for this often effects a speedy cure. Some people do very nicely on six or seven hours of sleep, while other constitu- tions require eight or nine hours to obtain the same result. In connection amt Iipg! oore with the additional sleep, massage around the eyes, night and morning, using a good skin food. This will build up the tissues and the delicate layer of fat thus induced will tend to purify and to whiten the skin. Begin at the outer corner of the eye, pick up the skin and gently roll between the thumb and finger; then place the tips of the fingers at the inner corners of the eyes.and draw them under the eyes, outward, to the temples, using a rather light pressure. Repeat at least twenty times. After using the skin food in the morning wipe the face with a soft, clean cloth to/remove all surplus and apply a little good powder to cover the shiny appearance which follows such applications. Massage the right side of the body, just below the ribs, to stimulate the action of the liver, be very careful of your diet and after a few weeks of faithful treat- ment there should be a marked im- provement. DECORATING THE DEN (Young Wife).—Novelties in pillows for cozy corners, window seats and especially for dens, are shown in art burlaps col- ored in'rich shades of brown, green, red and the loveliest shades of soft old blue, and the unique part of it all Is that the design is worked in raffla. Barbaric effects are usually sought and the fibrous material is used in one or in several colors as best expresses the natlonal colors to be represented or the peculiar forms of design. The stitches employed are rather long and simple, hence the work is guite quickly executed. The stamped pillow covers and raffia can be obtained at any large department store, or you may buy the completed pillows if you don’t mind the expense. If not perfectly familiar with the method of taking the stitches I would suggest that you purchase one finished pillow and use it as a guide. The coloring of raffia is by no means perfect, although it has been much Improved and has lost much of the crudeness of the first put on the mar- ket. Many ingenious women who de- light. in rafla work obtain it in the natural color and dye it themselves. After a little practice charming shades of color can be obtained to harmonize with all sorts of decorations, which is a vast help to artistic effects, for too few colors, even if good, lend to monotony when frequently used. The edges of these pillows are usually finished with a cord of plaited raffia in mixed or self colors to harmonize with fhe burlap. The corners may be tucked in and held by invisible stitches or a rewer idea is to fold over the corner and secure with a large button of raffia. Table covers in the same materials are serviceable, and spaces above the mantel may be filled in with embroidered panels to match and form excellent backgrounds for collections of small arms, pipes, etc., which usually litter a man’s den. - 'While the artistic possibilities of this to /mow craft are many, taste and judgment must be brought to bear in the selec- tion and placing of the work or th: cozy corner will degenerate Into a crazy cornér. DRY CLEANING OF THE HAIR (Mary).—A delicate person highly susceptible - to colds should never shampoo the hair and then go out into the air as soon'as the hair seems dry.' Such a plan is all very well at the seashore in the summer and ill ef- fects are not likely to result, but win- ter winds are quite different and likely to bring colds and neuralgia. When the weather is very cold it is wise to forego shampooing and resort to the process of dry cleaning until a more favorable season. To dry clean the hair effectively several clean brushes are essential and an old silk handker- chief and some bay rum. Part the hair through the middle and again across, behind the ears. Brush gently in long, even strokes, but firm enough to reach the scalp and remove all dust and dandruff; then separate the hair in small strands, shaking each well to dislodge any remaining particles of dust. Brush again, using another clean brush, and finish by wiping each strand with a clean, soft handkerchief and you will be delighted to see how bright the hair is. Apply bay rum to the scalp with a small sponge and rub it in well with the finger tips. This is a valuable tonic as well as an aid in keeping the hair soft and dry. A better preparation even than bay rum is the prepared rum and quinine, which any druggist can put up. HAND TRIMMING GARMENTS (Eloise).—Scarcely a new garment is seen without a touch of -hand work on it. The fad for embroldery amounts to such a craze that purses, slippers, cloaks and even hats have wonderful bits of needlework as their principal embellishment, while dresses, and espe- cially the separate waists, are a mass of exquisite stitches. The labor of making new garments has increased accordingly and the fashionable dress- maker has seized upon the fad and rushed prices up very high on the plea of extra time. However, the clever wo- man, nothing daunted, and determined to dress well on a moderate purse, and still have some of the smartest things of the season, has her gowns and waists cut and fitted by a good dress- maker, and, by doing the needlework herself, is able to have a stunning Trock at small outlay for the embel- lishments. Yokes, panels, cuffs, etc, are, of course, shaped over a reliable pattern of correct size. Indeed, the wo- man who can do really fine needlework can utilize all bits of choice silk and seraps of lace In constructing unique trimmings, giving her wardrobe an in- dividuality by her own industry that would require considerable money to buy. Another point. When she is in the shops she keeps 2 sharp eye out for garments of good quality and perfect style, such as underwear, shirt waists, dressing sacques, etc., which can be se- cured for a reasonable sum; then, by home skill she converts these garments into elaborate things of beauty at a trifiing cost. Smocking, fagoting and lace stitches still obtain, with plenty of dainty patterns in stem and satin stitches. The finest of renaissance braids joined with silk stitches are emong the choicest materials for yokes, etc. SOME SOCIAL FORMS (Per- plexed).—An opera hat is intended for evening wear only,when a gentleman attends the theater, opera’ or recep- tions in full dress and, whether the large or small formal dinner is given, gentlemen as well as ladies must ap- pear in full dress. For informal oc- casions, eve~'~gs at home, theater and stag parties the Tuxedo c>at is correct. Who shall be served first is a much discussed question. Strictly speaking, the hostess justly claims that honor, unless her lady guest Is older, in which case it is correct to serve the guestfirst, then the hostess and the other ladies of the family and lastly the gentlemen. It would"be exceedingly ‘bbish to serve a gentleman before the ladles simply because he enjoyed the dis- tinction of being a social or literary light, and a well-bred man would be embarrassed by such treatment. Al- ways maintain your own and your hus- band's dignity by a calm gracious de- meanor toward your guests. To apolo- gize for the lack of luxuries to which you know your guest is accustomed would be the height of folly; further- more, it would seriously reflect upon the ability of your husband as a pro- vider. When you have graciously of- fered the best your house and income. afford for the enjoyment of another, you have done your duty and it will be accepted in the same spirit by the well-bred person. A guest who so far forgets himself as to make odious com- parisons should not be invited a sec- ond time. CONCERNING MOURNING COS- TUMES (Widow).—Individual prefer- ence largely governs the period of mourning for a widow, although there is an established etiquette concerning it. For the first month she is expected to live In strict seclusion, seeing only members of her family. She must not enter social life for two years, but may call upon her most intimate friends In. formally after the first year. The third year she may entertain her friends and go to places of amusement. As to her attire, a veil and small bonnet Is worn for the first six months, usually one year. After one and a half or two years she may lighten her mourning by wearing black and white or pure white. Narrow turnover cojlar and cuffs of plain hemstitched white linen may be worn after the first year. All mourn- ing garments must be very simply made and colors are not considered permissible under three years, and then shades of gray and violet are the first worn. During the first year a widow should not wear jewelry of any kind except her wedding ring, nor is jewelry allowable the second year unless she lightens her mourning, although many do wear jet and enamel jewelry during the entire-period and even dlamond rings. Earrings and brooches must never be worn. While a widow should adhere to certain recognized customs, she may properly refuse to be a slave to the numerous idiosyncrasies which fashion imposes, without fear of severs criticism. Many sensible people justly claim that customs are absurdly over- done. Needless seclusion and depress- ing attire only intensify the bereave- ment; the living owe it to themselves, their families and the world at large to be as cheerful as circumstances will permit. Do not misunderstand me, for I believe in the tenderest reverance for the dead, but respect and loving re- membrance can be shown in a thou- sand delicate ways which are not com- patible with vulgar display. CARE OF CHILDRENS TEETH (Mother).—The mistaken idea that a child’s first, or milk teeth, need not de cared for entails no end of misery on the child and Inspires a feeling of re- pulsion in all sensitive beholders. Scrupulous care of the teeth should be begun from the day of their develop- ment in full, and the child taught as early as possible to care for them it- self under the supervision of nurse or of mother. Get a small and not too stift brush, use a good prepared chalk or myrrh and camphor and have the teeth brushed morning and night A spool of silk dental floss Is also essen- tial and should be cut In six inch lengths as most convenlent to use; this should be drawn between the teeth to remove any particles which the brush cannot dislodge: then rinse the mouth thoroughly with tepid water in which a pinch of bicarbonats of soda has been dissolved. Or, listerine may be used in the proportion of fifteen drops to a half glass of water. This will purify the breath and neutralise the effects of the acids of the stomach en the teeth. Have all the cavities filled as soon as discovered. Never rely upenm cursory home examinations, but take the child regularly to & skillful dentist to have repairs made. ——-—mm —— Water as Medicine _ The unique progress of Japan and the remarkable efficiency of its peopls in everything they undertake suggest some interesting questions as to the In- fluence of diet and personal hygiene on national welfare. The British Medical Journal says that the Japan- ese themselyes attribute their high average of p\:yflcu strength to a plain and frugal diet, and the system of gymnastics called jlu-jitsu, which in- cludes a knowledgs of anatomy and of the external and internal uses of wa- ter. Although during the perfod of their ascendency the Samural kept the secret that their great physical su- periority was due in a great measure to the Internal and external use of water, the belief that if used liberally and intelligently water Is an infallible weapon against disease is now gener- ally held. By those who go in for jlu- jitsu an average of one gallon a day is drunk. It is noteworthy that rheu- matism is almost unknown in Japan: it s probable that the absence of meat from the diet, combined with the use of plenty of water, acosunts for this Immunity.