The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 8, 1904, Page 10

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. YN = f the fact that hats are and extravagantly r veils are worn. It is to er, and the 1 ad through the F ss the mouth 4 Neither is the e This is the nder the hat er it and the back. over the f them com- hat, the face, the d are pinned at way. 1 of the sum- gh it ¥ be a little thick though it may and almost o doubt that it w f all veils is the It need de en- ver the nec ning for the also a trimming last summer, proper us ed around the back 80 as to tab finished witi hat will be another variety. L h s fastened to guch a curtain around the back. The front has le it looks f growing tty after tained zp- round hats r to them- very thin and velvet orna- erries are put on here and These black- in silk in spots The result active and bes and very s pe ree ked idish hue to the figured no record that they and, particu- lifted in object aln veil ain veil that is and most of the v are lifted from the face. Just at may be the mission of the veil is not lowered ‘over the face can- ted. Particularly as the hat conceals is one of the lgve- Women of economical tendencies are edva ge of the veil fad and aring & veil over a hat to cover s thereof, thus making an few daye longer. Others y taking the hat of last sum- tting it with a new and hand- uch a manner that the 1 atall names this season, and in Veils v veil is called the coachman’s veil. It resembies the veil worn by automo- bilists. 1t shirred at the top and is er the hat. A ring is slipped shirring to keep it in place. is then drawn over the hat veil ends are crossed in the be brought forward to the nder the chin and let long floating ends down the of the gown. good-by vell is quite different this. It is made of chiffon, with nd very much trimmed with but- r with birds on the wing. It long veil, seven yards in and it is hemmed, but is not e made up. This good-by vell over the hat, is looped away e face and is caught upon the 1 fancy pins. pers’ vell is another varia- veil of the season. It is made of fine mesh or chiffon and it is ery rown & shade of cream or white. Its trim- ming consists of large losenges of black velvet, which are pinned to the ve! frecuent intervals. These lo- zenges are in black or white, blue or ged, according to the color of the gown, and the prettiest of these veils are in white with large circles in golden brown velvet applied to the veil with mucilage The plain chiffon veils trimmed only with lozenges, circles or ovals of vet are easy Any woman with a little inge will buy the chiffons, cut out the velvet and apply the disks to the veil. “This is all there is to the making of the veil, and the resuit Is excellent. Such a veil should be draped around the hat and looped off the face, for the snots are far too heavy to be worn over the eves. The calling veils carry one away from the realm of the practical and the inex- pensive into the domain of the beauti- ful and the costly. Ia calling and r ception veils the patterns ccme ve: bhigh and one can pay one's own price. Lovely vells in all-over lace, with fine mesh and small silk dots, can be ob- tained with a wide border of real lace. der sets the veil and gives y look which all veils must have this season. One variety of this veil shows a netting of guiden brown with a border of white. "Still another veil ig in white net with a border cf black. The shaded or iridescent vells are lovely, but they must be worn by a woman with a great deal of taste at her disposal. T in rose pink, which shades from.a very pale shade to a very deep shade, are jhe best. They come in®very long pieces and can be draped around a hat and fastened in the back to form long streamers. Or the ends can be brought around to the front again. The veil y°~ takes great prominence in this seascn of veils. And one of the prettiest of veil pins is the long buckle which fastened at the back of the veil, nis has a pin underneath, so that the buckle is only a bluff, but the effect is very good decd. Great s, round and as big as door plates, are worn on the lacks cf veils, and in many instances these are so heavy that they are pinned fast to the hair or to the hat. Or the veil is fas- tened with several short hat pins, which are stuck in the back of the veil in such,a manner as to display them nicely. They should, of course, match the jewelry of the gown. It is the very ultra thing to wear a dotted net veil with a gown of dotted net. The two, the veil and the gown, seem off one piece and must be trimmed in the same manner, with lace, with embroidery or with an ap- plique of animals and flowers, Turbans, which are to be the favorite hats for early wear, will be draped with vells of fine mesh, trimmed with velvet dots or with all lace veilings, and the prevailing style will be the looped veil, lifted in the front and let fall at the back of the turban. The old-fashioned shirred veils are in style. The veil, which is fastened upon a shir string, is carried around the brim of the hat and the string is fas- tened at the back. The curtain veils that fall at the back only are Jaid in side plaits and are sewed to the back of the hat, from TOQUE" TRIMMED WITH A BRI O TEATI RS 7 which they fall in a handsome flounce. One of the decided novelties of the seagon was a veil of net, into which tiny steel ornaments were fastened. This was worn with a collar of black satin, studded with steel buttons that looked like nail heads. The belt was to match. It was wide and folded like a girdle, and there were groups of these nailsheads of steel studding it here and there. The buckle was made uf .steel. And there is another mnovelty, this one in gilt, which caters to the fancy for sgomething that will glisten. It con- sists.of a dotted veil with gold figures in Japanese design. The dots are worked in gold silk. This veil is worn with a gold belt, cut on the military style, with a round military buckle, while the stock is cut on the military ‘order and trimmed with two bands of ‘braid. For those who can wear this severe order of things it is very be- coming. A veil which had the accent of nov- elty and which was perbaps the only ane of its kind, as it was designed for a trousseau, was made of very s fine mesh. It could be worn over the face, as it had only the tiniest figures. Bordering it was a bias band of black taffeta, in bright shades of red. This band was put on, not more than hait an inch in width, and was stitched in tailored fashion on both edges. A similar band bordered the top of the veil, which was worn over a large brimmed hat. There is the veil for general wear and which is thrown over the hat and lifted with studied carelessness, It is fastened here and there upon the brim with fancy pins, which can be taken out if the veil be lowered. An- other veil of this description is put around the hat in regular fashion and then raised in regular folds, which are pinned to.the hat brim. A Little Word About Parasols. The new parasols are the next de- cided novelties of the season. They come all laid in tucks, with the tucks in graduated sizes. Again they are laid in groups of threes or four. And there are parasols with a wide group of tucks around the small part. E= xf'?o OBl n}lG To those who wish te possess this style of shade it can be whispered that the tucks are applied and that, instead of being real, they are simu- lated. An old and thoroughly out- of-date parasol can be made into a new and ‘thoroughly modern one by the simple expedient of applying sim- ulated tucks and large flowers out of figured goods. If there Is such a thing as a new trimming such a trimming is observ- able in the bands of new green linen which are used fo trim gowns of white linen, red linen and linen of pe all colors. - These bands of bright 8reen are either overlaid with lace or with braid of an open weave, 8o that the green shines through. A beautiful suit of all white linen was trimmed with green bands, and over these green bands were laid strips of wash .lace. They trimmed the cuffs, the collar and the lapels for.the walst were made with a simulated vest from which the lapels turned back smartly. To be terribly smart the veil must match in color these trimmings. Green trimmings call for a green veil, gold trimmings call for a veil of deep cream. ACTALLING AND CLCLERPTION VEIL, and so through the range of colors. Buf the prettiest idea of all, both from a vell standpoint and from a fash- ion standpoint, is the shirt walst sult that is garlanded with flowers. Beau- tiful wreaths of flowérs, small and jolned together in rope fashion, are carried around the gown. The entire costume is made up of this flowered material. The veil matches it and is embroidered with little flowers. The MAN YOU hat fs trimmed with flowers to match these on the costume. While it is a season of of old things, it is also & Alscovery of new things are disc at they can wear narrow, better than they can wear the soft, wide ones. Therefore it it woman to cling to the the slim women to And ex- revival sason of the Stout women narrow t wear the wide folded ones. tremes can be found in both. There can be obtained the very nar- rowest belts of dull silk and of dull leather. And there can also be obtained the very wide folded belts of sllk or satin or chiffon velvet. So the two ex- tremes of figure can be accommodated, the short, stout woman and the tall, slender one. While Dame Fashion has always ad- vised the fat woman to Wear & very narrow zone of black around her walst, she bas come out this season with a different bit of wisdom. “Wear & beit to match your waist,” says this wise dame, *In order that your walst may appear a little longer. No matter what may be the color or the material of your waist let the belt repeat it In tone, if not in kind.” This is & lesson for the stout woman to ponder over and one which she must learn if she would bear any relstiomship to the quality called chic. Old-fashioned gloves are coming back in.style. They are made short in the wrist, with one button. This displays a little of the wrist above the glove, and there is an opportunity for brace- lets. The wide, flat bracelet is the thing. It comes in gold and in other materials, and when not in a metal it is in the shape of & velvet band. The band can be fastened with a jeweled in. vThe old-fashioned band of velvet around the wrist goes well with the pendant trimming. All sorts of fringes, banging balls, dangling articles and pendants of every kind are used In the 1 to make them new trimmings, & novel the ufacturers have intro- duced new designs. There are fringes worked around mx dallions, and are fringes wh have curl 1 ornaments entwl in them. nges also ¢ vith pearl beads stru hrough through t seen wit through °t dallions surr A great effort 1 troduce Iy fancy yearns { and It is fo the fivory bu which can the ivory er that; and n which come for t Don't, if spring suppl the small th side combs, th pins and ot to a great d toilet. Here are a can be applied t you skirt rules w Don't have t in ar place. Don't ! e it too short. Don’'t have it scan t it swing clear from the s 1d hang full all the way round. Don’t try to rately if you m the skirt elabo- 11 clinging to the 1830 styles. t around the foot, but be cor th ruffles. You co not need a great deal of embroidery or applique. Don't try to wear a shirred skirt unless you are very slender. Don’t try to have your skirts full on the hips. Let the fullness be gathered into shirrings and made as flat as pos- sible. Let it be laid in the side tucks, let it be managed In any way just so the hips are not made any fuller. The Eugene skirt differs from this that it is very long all the way It is the typical plazza skirt to drag on the ground. s right in the middle in round. and is allow Its only loop! of the front. MIGHT BE | e ANY men, most men in fact, stop just short of being thelir best selves. That is the pathos of human life. We have in every community a fair sup- ply of amiable, intelligent, interest- ing, respectable men and women. There is a vast deal of kindness and of good- ness in the world, filtering constantly from one life to another. But along ‘with it we find life after life which just falls of attaining its largest develop- ment and usefulness. One of the most painful things I ever heard sald about a human being was the remark of a keen critic concerning an attractive and versatile young woman: “She just misses being an extremely nice girl.” He meant that with all her brilliancy and virtue there was the absence of a cetrtain, perhaps indefinable, but real trait that would have made her a charming and altogether lovable crea- ture. The cause of such arrested moral and spiritual development {s not far to seek. Often the secret of it is the compara- tively low and sordid ends to which a man is devoting God-given talent and strength. In commenting upon a prominent American who died not long ago, one of our comic papers, noted for its frequent flashes of wisdom as well as of wit, sald saplently: “He was a first-class man with a second-class career.” It meant that barring a brief but extremely creditable period of pub- lic service, he had given himself to the amassing of wealth and to the selfish enjoyment of it when it was in him to do large and chivalrous service for his fellow-men, to lead some great re- form movement in politics, to apply his undoubted intellectual ability and his rare capacity for influence over others to the solution of some of our pressing national problems. But he preferred the pleasure arising from the manipulation of great business in- terests and the joys of society and of his clubs. He wasg not quite ready for the moral struggle and sacrifice essen- tial to becoming his best possible self. <+ On the other hand it is reassuring to see how many men both in public and private life instead of deterforating morally as they age actually grow bet- ter. A prominent minister who at- tended a while ago the twenty-fifth re- union of his college class told me that the thing that impressed him most was the fact that almost every one of his classmates seemed to have im- proved in the quarter of & eentury since graduation. The same process may occasionally be observed in the political realm. Thé death of a re- nowned party leader has recently called attention to tbe way in which it is possible for a man to outgrow suspi- cions and hostilitles, through giving a larger outlet year by year to that which was best In him. It was not In vain that he passed through the furnace of public criticism, of family sorrows, of personal bereavement, for during all this distressing experience he was growing morally himself, and gaining the confidence and the affection of the common people, so that to-day ques- tionable methods of earlier years recede into the background of his career and the nation mourns the loss of a true and patriotic leader. No one becomes his best self unless he feels upon his life the push of some great ennobling force from without. In the case just cited it was a great and growing sympathy with the rightful de- mands of the wage-earning class that made the man cherishing it grow con- stantly nobler to his dying day. To others some wrong to be redressed or some worthy propaganda is the motive force in the spiritual advance. And to still others—and there is a multitude of these—it is the imperatives, the re- straints and the Inspirations of religion that furnish the impuise to the real- izing of that which is best in them. The man you might be is not sq very far away from you to-day. It needs only a lttle more continuous, stren- uous endeavor to mount up to him. Oh. to have a vision this day of the man we might be, the man we ought to be, 4 the man we can be. THE PARSON.