The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 3, 1904, Page 10

10 FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. 3y Augusta Prescott. HE world moves and Easter has come round agein. Baster brings with 1t, it it is well behaved, a rush of spring suns e. But, brighter than the sunsk Y e glorious than the most J ster weather, gayer than more cheerful self is the out to-day in Easter hat which fullest panop!; n. And, is as gor- ich is pe- ter Sun- vy be too cold o matter how Easter hat will ven- 7 to the effect do mot ap- nd that peo- eave their best hats ferring to come out on r dullwinter head- 1e of a few it rany do come on Fifth avenue is a . P The rsteps and * rowded with sightseers, fashion’s progress ¢ ner declared . . Beas < i - ver f very old in the b for last year with t ertainly made a woman look tw r age Hats That Are Youthful. ave a de- The: are large as a car wheel, h outstretched of this med, y trimmed in anner that it is pot. welghe heavily A clever milliner w ange it that it » oot weigh than another hat of balf the si The hats large, do not look bigs for they brim consist of 1. Sheir brims tulles,. chifr entire const ead of heavy. And this quality makes them look emaller than they really are. The picture hat of the season, thot lghtly bullt. Their ing, thelr trimm doef not look too big. It is charmingly adapted to f e wear. It would be a difficult thing to men- . tion the m Is of which the fash- fonable me n gized hat iIs built. Some of " the t of hats are made of “Oriental straw, with 2 pretty shell- r. These hats have charm- crowns, all laid in straw ey are so abundantly nterwoven with fancy aw that they require very hg. A rose or a feather or ngs are all that is needed. weaves of & little trim: two smart The who b one of these fancy y straws, in tan color or butter eolor or pale vellow, will mot avaste her money. She can place a rose upon the hat now. Later she can re- place the rose with three outstretched . And later in the season she e off the wings and replace them few nice autumn leaves. Wint the Hats Cost. « Pye cost of the Easter hat is a thing fore which woman shrinks. But, wrink as ghe will, it is an item which ®hé must face. The first hats of the season are apt to be alarmingly high, and even though they cost a great deal they ere not always hats of the most useful order. “Sho ever wears the hats that are displayed the first of the season?” asked one woman ther, look into a shop wind a very gay model in three shades of brown with wonderful pink roses and a great nest of green leaves. The hat in question was an imported medel, & Paris hat, one of those hats which are brought over as a guide and from which a great many ha are built. The original model is built in an exaggerated way and is to be worn only by some one who can carry it off. But the hats that are copled after it ge and the very striking worn only by the tall ned woman. The yust wear a hatgmnot or so conspicuous, the hat, while the little n must be content with the littie toque and the tiny “made” hat of Lon- cost of the Easter hat this year This figure was paid at by the wife of a Pittsburg magnate. This woman, whose tyle is of the abundant type and who Z of good size, ordered straw woven with ve!- hat had a curling crown. A few gold ads lent it distinction. The upper part of this $200 hat was aced with the finest of chiffon folds d e folds of chiffon there were laid narrow bands of fine lace inser- tion, about three yards of lace being used. The roses upon the hat, if one aay believe the milliner, cost at whole- sale $9 each. Thev were made of silk and velvet and were S0 exquisitely put together that one might easily fancy them real. They were of the deep rich de of red which one assoclates with he American Beau he large festoon of them, with tr: ing over one sgide of the hat, while the other side was draped with.a feather which shaded from white to a deep shade of red. Getting Up Your Own Hat. “The woman who wants to get up her own E ' said a milliner the other day, “can easily do it if she will learn to copy. “In every millinery establishment,” said she, “there are copyists, women who can trim beautifully if they have a model from which to work. And these copyists turn out hats that are iracles of prettiness. It takes a little skill to copy, but it is better than de- signing. ‘The woman who wants to make her own hats should make a tour of the ehops until she sees the hat she ad- mires. Then she should study its ar- chitecture. “Her second step should be to make a trip to the trimming counter to pur- chase the material for the hat. She thould get the lace, the flowers, the ornament, whatever it may be, and the material used in making the bows. “Finally, she should secure facings and linings and any small necessities. With these in her hand she may pur- chase a frame and go home and do her own trimming. Or perhaps she can use a frame which she may happen to have at home. “Women,” continued this milliner, +“make a mistake in supposing that it is the frame which makes much differ- ence. Almost any old frame can be bent into shape, and almost any oid hat can be taken out of last year's band- box, ripped apart, bent and turned and twisted and made to look like nmew again. “The secret of a good hat all lies in putting on good, new trimmings., Never compromise upon your trimmings if you are an amateur milliner, for in that way you will ruin your hat. “The reason so many home milliners fail,” continued this milliner, good-na- turedly enlightening a little party of amateur hat trimmers, “is that they try to use old materfal. They think any old scrap of velvet will do and that any old flower will take the place of a crisp, bright, new one. But a greater mistake than this was never made.” ‘What It Pays to Buy. If you are buying a hat outright look at it very carefully before you pur- chase. It is a season of very expensive hats, and while some hats are worth their money, otherg are not. The §20 hats have long plumes or bits of ex- peusive embroidery. ¢ The woman who pays $30 for a hat may get her money’'s worth, and it is likely in buying & bat at that figure she is laying out the money better than would be possible in any other manner, Yet $30 seems congiderable to pay for a hat, and there are a great many women .. who. have - never paid that amount. But, on the other hand, there are $30 hats that are well worth that sum and that will come back to one in actual value over and over again. So in purchasing & hat this season, it you are going to get a high-priced one, look at the following points in the hat. They mark the new steps in fashion/ SINAY \ and buyers of hats should secure them: Is the trimming such that it can be used again? Is there a lace scarf upon it? Look to see if the scarf is cut up 80 as to be useless next time, or Is it & folded scarf, which can be taken off and pressed and used many times? The corded lace scarfs, with rope cording, are the newest thing. ° Agaln, if it be a hat with draped brim notice if the/fringe, or the lace, or the needlework which forms the drapery is of good quality. Unless it is really good it is a poor investment. The new- est hat drapes are made of lace with very delicate silver embroidery. Agaln, notice if the feathers upon the hat are long, thick, naturally curling feathers. There/are many expensive hats which are trimmed with short, stubby .feathers that are - practically useless afterward. Avoid such hats and try to select one with a shaded feather, of long, thick build, with a heavy tip and a thick rib, Buch feathers last forever and are well worth the invest- ment. Metal ornaments are being worn upon hats this year, and here one can use a great deal of judgment. There are handsome rhinestone buttons, which look very pretty upon a hat, but which are really very cheap. But, on the other hand, there come expensive orna- ments of silver, of turquoise, of gun metal and of heavily plated gold, which will wear a very long time and always look rich. The Hat Trimmed With Jets. Jets make a very handsome hat trim- ming. They wear a long time and, though a good quality of jet is not cheap, it 18 a good Investment. One of the handsomest of spring toques is cov- ered with dangling jets. It is a round toque, all laid in many folds, and along the lines of the folds there is an abun- dance of jet. The tiny jet danglers look very pretty indesd. And, to finish the hat, there are jet balls at the side, each ball hanging from a silky cord. Three or four balls hang so low as to almost touch the ear. The continental hat is being consid- erably worn. This is a hat which is large and round and bent with an effect at military style. There are large black chiffon hats which are bent in the tri-corner shape, and there are othér hats of wire which are so turned and twisted as to assume something of a military shape. But these hats lose their military resemblance very early in their career, for they, are trimmed with long, sweeping feathers, and with bows of silk, and with bunches of chif- fon, thus taking away the resemblance to the hat of the soldiery. The fad for wearing the very light, thin felt hat is a feature of spring. There come very soft felts which are draped with lace and made to do for traveling. purposes. At the Southern summer resorts one sees felt hats, draped with a lace scarf, and made gay with a velvet rose, and a few green leaves. These hats will be worn all summer, just as straw hats are worn all winter. The dav seems to be past when the summer hat is good for summer only. ‘The wise woman will select her mil- linery in such a manner that it can be worn all the year round. and the hat of August blossoms prettily in winter, while the hat of December looks very nice on Easter Sunday. Hats, like gowns, are now planned for all the year round wear, and flowers and chiffon are really so con- structed that they can be worn to the matinee next winter, The tendency to- set the hat back from the face is a growing one. The “dip" hat, the hat which comes down over the eyes, is not very becominz and woman prefers to set her hat back and let her rippling coiffure show. The coiffure is waved and is dressed high or low, as the hat may require, and the hat itself is set well back. This wearing of the hat well back from face is almost universal, and all hats display the forehead and pompadour. There is a revival of the 1830 hat, in ‘shape at least, though in trim- mings the hat industry has progressed to such an extent that the trimmings ot the 1830 hat would not be toler- ated now. But the 1830 shapes are identical with those of 1904. T: for example, the round or garden This is the hat with a round crown and a dbrim all the way around. It is a little wider in the front than in the back and its tendency is to droop front and back. The 1830 hat is bent down in the back and is spiked to the coiffure. The sides upturn slightly and are abun- dantly trimmed with small flowers, ‘while the front droops decidedly and is trimmed with lace and maline. One of the most becoming of these round hats is buflt upon a framework of wire. This is draped with a thin scarf, upon which there are many lace medallions and Insets. The entire hat is covered with this and a little border of lace hangs down around the edge of the brim. The top of the hat is trimmed with a wreath of small red roses and at one side there ars white wings, which stand forth sharply. Flowers and wings form the trim- ming for another véry pretty hat. The flowers, which are small red roses, are arranged in a wreath, which sur- rounds the straw crown. Around this wreath there lles another wreath, which is made of little white roses to set off the red ones. At the side of the hat there stand half a dosen wings, in red and white. Feathers and wings are seen Im every color and the dyed wing is quite as numerous as the wing of natural color. Shaded wings, chaded feathers and shaded breasts come in endless color and variety and some of them are exceedingly pretty. Straw hats are numerous this yeas, perhaps more so than in previeus years, for the straws come in greater variety and In a greater number eof shades and In finer weaves. The light welght Oriental straws are lovely, and the very delicate imported effects are as charming as one could desire. There are straws that look like satim and there are straws as thin as a web. Pretty Hats of the Year. There come certain fancy varieties of straw with mock pearis in the weave and there come straws with tiny iridescent: stones that are very briliant to the eye and that, in them- selyes, make a fancy trimming. Hats made of these straws comse high, but th¢re is this virtue about them, that they require little trim- ming. The flower hats are blooming this spring and the geranium hats and the violet hats are in evidence. The gera- nfum hats are in new shapes and very pretty. one of the loveliest being a boat shaped hat with sides made of scarlet velvet geraniums, while the top is a mass of green velvet leaves. At one side there is a chou of ger- anium colored satin ribbon, while In the midst of the geranium Tribbon there nestle two sharply pointed wings. Another geranium hat is in toque shape, set well back from the face, with wide upward rolling brim made of geraniums. The top is all of green leaves with a few large geranium flowers trailing at the sides. Feathers are arranged upon many ot the spring hats in new ways. In- stead of being laid upon the hat in conventional fashion, they are pulled oft at one side and brought over the brim of the hat and fastened on the under side. Long ostrich feathers, all exquisitely shaded, are arranged upon hats in this manner and are brought over the brim and tacked underneath. These feathers, which are long, are often in very deli- cate tones, thus making a very fine and handsome trimming for the hat. Very few hats are to be worn flat upon the head. All hats are slightly titted and are worn either back from the face or quite at ome side, though - the day of the tilted Aat upon its ban- deau is pretty well past. Still the hats have a tilted look aad are made to pro- duce this effect by a judiclous use qof trimming and by the bending of the brim in undulatiog fashion.