The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 21, 1904, Page 10

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. : - T O % " i el L ErIVCE GRETN little below the elbow in a wide ruf- -4 fle. This is lined- with a ruffie of chif- What You Will See When . fon and this in turn with a ruffle of b} Go to Shon for a n‘--- lace, then more chiffon, and so on un- Put On When \..‘ v|‘.(:< til the sleeve is filled in. It falls Your Fur Coat——Shouls around the hand in one great cas- ders Are No ry o cade. g 1\11“ < \-”1 \.‘f‘{\hv"' Sleeves are made by puffing the ma- Ve Ahe Wrlms ; terial below the elbow. Then comes Shoulders Are Trimmed a great series of ruffles that fall right down to the very wrist. These are made of many kinds of lace, of tulle of chiffon and of other materials, un- Treat 1 Will Mark an Era of Beautiful Full Skirt and e History —The managed without sacrifl What ixtent Women Will without' sa e til the arms are exguisitely covered. There is no d Nothing prettier than this sjeeve could the previous ¥ possibly be imagined. woman appear By Augusta Prescott Some of the Coming Skirts. more: 18 lified There, are skirts that are too hand- e : it e some to be ignored in the chronicles I v of fashion, where re to b = mentioned. A lovel one that s : trails well upon the ground and is trimmed with a deep, flounce-like ar- rangement. The best skirts are not e Shilie ] o flounced, but are cut so that the . e e oy part flares like a flounce. sk e Again, the skirt is box plaited half way down with the box plaits ‘»vm Tl e ’ and with the fullness all lying in these ‘_‘“’[ of its .‘nl]ness_‘ plaits. Skirts of this kind should be med with three deep made very long to give that exquisite st g gl g 4 feminine height that is so much de- ith a band of satin sired by both men and women. nothing dressy, yet g p o v A great deal Is being done to R T adlY o aron Ve e woman, fair woman, seem tal oy B e s o ro to make the OfiyyAte aiite Yeuy lenk: ngles ched flat. Suddenly there is a flare aves ne stoles of LhEY Sf€ Yimmed i snch Ko the wide plaits are released and the : “soies of & seem still longer. The new sk R i e S i Y it for Easter daye. of four lengths, and it ms almost FR L i LD L afiien that aes he Tt ot Y sential that a woman shodld have at It 1S 25 & rule the silks that ean b T " B B i least one skirt made in every one of ;h,'m o0 "o N;mad N;xrmmd }he it : : rul, can be Artes e ks B g without adding to the size of the walst 3 est, be- - : \ the {n'Sox pistes The Iugest Shise I8 the jenttiest, or hips and without making the figurs full cause the most graceful and the most o . oo 3 " vha thin novelty cloths, al- Box plaits feminine. This skirt is fitted to the hips X . e . ost s t e 1k r 2 redbypegiadinis Do gmesbioey and is “tried on” the wearer in a pecu . Say S et A e s gives a very full skirt liar fashion. She is stood on a thick . s i are countless linens and batistes and lightweight goods with a silky finish t make up exquisitely. These goods e all of a nature which will admit of the fashionable full hip treatment. Gowns for the London Season. book, or upon a low footstool, and the skirt is turned up just even with th ground in front and at the sides. But at the sides it begins to grow and in the back ft is rt, the pe, is trimmed with black embroide h reaches downward part ith embroid- the spring and suit can best ark made by ng suit,” said she, mind. The suit ugh to wear in April be fashionably be of a color that It must not be a ds the weather nicely. ' continued she, “I expect Then I shall lay season I will t and, after refreshing it a wear it for a traveling This can be done by the removal any lace that may be upon it and by taking off of one of the shoulder T the putting in of a new vest. his same suit does nicely for first ear. And now the lace is put back n, the gown is made smart with choux f ribbon and it is worn with a very autumn hat—one of those )} brightest in the fall ust before the snow calls it in. ear two months Always,” said she, “buy your spring ith all of these jdeas and ideals The Shoulders of the Gowns. A man_dressmaker stood looking into a fashionable depart- t store where tailored gowns were i ' sald he, “of making gowns ahead of the season No sooner does a style come in than another one follows and chases shoulders of the dresses have changed within three months, and now the gowns which I made just before Christmas are all out of date. Many of them are positively Gothic by the side of the new styles.” The truth of his statement was evi- dent at a glance, for the new gowns which stood so gayly forth on the wax- en models were laden as to the shoula< ers and remarkable as to the sleeves, The shoulders were all bullt on the sloping order, and in many cases the slope was continued by some clever art until it actually reached the elbow line, there to become lost in the voluminous folds and puffs of the lower sleeve. In many cases the shoulder droop is managed by means of capes, either of cloth or of lace, while in other in- stances it is achieved in other ways. Lady Curzon is wearing a new gown, which might be called a visiting gown, and which could be easily converted into an afternoon dress. It is buiit of mole colored cloth, and it is made upon the shirt waist pattern, baggy in the front and secured with great jeweled frogs that strap it across the front and shut it in very picturesque fashion. At the neck there is a large jeweled clasp. The feature of this gown is its sleeve, which is cut off at the shoulder. The shoulder is finished with a band of Armenian embroidery about two fin- gers wide. Then there comes a sleeve of cloth, cut off at the elbow, and fin- ished with another band of embroidery. And below this there is a heavy white lace undersleeve which terminates in a handsome ruffle around the hand. Gowns of Fashion's Leaders. Another handsome gown, worn by a leader of fashion, is one that is built entirely of louisine in a shade of deep crimson. The waist is on the popular blouce order, buttoned all the way down the front with the smallest of gold butto: And the yoke is one mass of shirring, which is brought down to a point over the bust. - Between the rows of shirring there are strappings of white satin ribbon. The stock of this gown is made of lace, which is fitted to the neck and throat, and is stiffly wired to keep it in place. The cuffs are deep cuffs and are also stifly wired. These are set out over the hand in a bell. This waist is all crimson, even the lace being dyed that color. The new gowns are full of new fea- tures and one cannot look at them an instant without being impressed with thelr oddity. They are trimmed in cu- rious ways, and they are treated with plaits and applications which are en- tirely different from all the trimmings of other seasons. In the long list of striking features the cuffs can be mentioned as among the most prominent. These have quite outgrown the modesty of previous sea- sons and are wonderfully effective in the large sizes and very chic in the smaller and tighter styles. A handsome cuff was seen upon a gown worn by Mrs. Grover Cleveland, ‘who is in deep mourning for her daugh- ter. This cuff, which was made of black henrietta, was very stiff and about two fingers in width. It was large around and was interlined so that it could be neither folded nor bent. It might as well have been wired. It was untrimmed except for a band of hen- rietta. This cuff completed a very full sleeve of the black goods. A handsome cuff was worn by Mrs. Roosevelt. The gown was a checked silk in black and white, and the sleeves were full and of the variety which gradually grows fuller toward the wrist. At the wrist the cuff was shit POrIFEZDOVR KITZ500Y | i -wr - - noldly and sharply and the slit was filled in with a very deep fall of lace, which trailed two fingers deep upon the gown. A Few of the Prettiest Gowns. Miss Alice Roosevelt at the same time wore an afternoon gown with cuffs of lace almost as deep as the elbow and very tight. The lace came down to a point over the knuckles, and from shoulder to thumb there was one very pronounced and very beautiful sweep. The bagginess of the sleeve all occurred on the under part, ‘where the sleeve hung down in a great fullness of cloth. And there is still another cuff that is gaining in favor, and this is the long, tight, plain cloth cuff, with the bell at the wrist. This is skin-tight over the hand and knuckles and is tight to the very elbow. Above this there is a full- ness which falls down and forward. This sleeve is tight at the shoulder. The sensation of the Paris season is the Melba sleeve, which is a sleeve made of thin material over a heavier one. This sleeve when used in an even- ing gown can be made of mousseline de sole over black taffeta. But if made of a heavier goods it needs no lining. It is very effective made of moire, and is good in a cloth gown. The Melba sleeve is very long. At the wrist it has a smart embroidered cuff very wide and very stiff and turn- ed back smartly from the hand into a wide flare. The sleeve proper is so full as to re- setnble a pillow case. The arm is en- veloped in it and it lies in great folds all around the elbow, falling forward over the cuff. The top of this sleeve is very tight and actually hugs the arm, being of the varlety known as tight. "ql‘nhen there is another sleeve, and this is the sleeve which terminates a sweep, the longer The next length is fitted while a wo- man stands upon a thin book. The skirt is turned up even with the ground and js gradually lengthens into a it sweeps off the baci respectable length. This is calling, and for very nice It is the skirt that Mrs, Paget and other London women select for doing the bazaars and shows of the season. Then come two other skirts, the shop- ping skirt, which just touches, or rather just escapes, the ground; and the skirt that is cut from one to two inches from the ground, namely, the instep skirt. These four lengths make the skirts of the season. The Graceful Foot Flounces. “How can I manage to be stylish?" queried & woman of her man dress- maker; “I am too short and then there is something too severe about my gowns."” As she spoke she brought forth a really lovely dinner creation in absinthe green crepe de chine trimmed with to- mato colored lace dyed to a brilliant red. The gown was cut rounding in the neck and was finished with a very deep and very scalloped collar of lace. This fell qver the bust, which was trimmed with wide ruffles of crepe de chine. The sleeves were masses of crepe de chine ruffle and lace. The skirf was one of those tucked affairs, with all the tucks turned in at the hips.” The front was plain. Deep rows of ruffles and shirring trimmed the skirt. There were three of these and around the foot there was another deep ruffle, with shirring at the head and a fall of lace. The whole was quite a triumph In brilliant simplicity. Yet it was not becoming. The man dressmaker studied it a minute in silence. Thken bringing out a lace flounce, he said: “Madam, let me add this. You need a touch of French chic to that gown.” The lace flounce, which was inex- pensive, was lined with mousseline and this lining was made heavier by a flounce of taffeta. The whole was set upon the foot of the gown until it lay upon the floor in one lovely e. Its effect was instantaneous. It made the wearer a great deal taller and it also added to her elegance, giving her A London dressmaker is responsible for the statement that the gowns of the coming season will be far superior to any ever seen before. “Stocks may be depressed, said he, “and times hard. But the gowns will bear no e dence this fact. They have neve been lovel and the first models spéeak volumes for those that are to come. ‘‘One of the most noticeable features will be the velvet ribbons or the way ir which the skirts are trimmed with bands of velvet. Velvet ribbon, the wa continued “will be muc n evidence. And skirts will be trimmed with it to t jon of any other trimmings. “There will be charming sk peau de soie, dull and dressy, t mmed with deep fl wes of point d'esps lace. Above the point d'esprit N ere will be a wide band of velvet ribbon. And, strapping this v t ribbon, there will be narrow bands of dull silk. “The belt in such cases should be made of velvet and should be bro t down to a deep point in the middl the front.” great many of the handso whether these be of ribb And the loveliest effects ed by winding narrow vet ribbon through the lace 1 little knots and bow . too, also to be used g and it is to be seen in » of flounce and voke and Indeed in one way it The rule for using th bands of colored velvet cording to a very fashionable shirt waist trimmer, this: “Take a belt of narrow velvet ribbon and t end through a ribbon narrow is, ac- needle. Ge in and out through the lace, tying it in a knot in the middle of the front. Try, in threading the ribbon, to use some sort of pattern, if it be only a curve, or a swirl or a little twist, just so as to relieve the monotony of outline. Use up as much of the velvet ribbon as possible. When you have od the whole you will have a pretty walst.”