The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 24, 1904, Page 13

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALILL 13 man in ail the 1e ever so quiet or ever secretly ad- gowns, even though » outright. She may = above fashions But down ves to purr in her soul of 1 of the sat- ks. It is in- n, and only a Fiji nd them eart of hearts she I admires the may be excused new cloths are ook precisely like 8 there is a new r hich n looks like which keeps its s nd which is so eve sponging will ¥ it is to be able beautiful cloth s brilliancy, its texture matter man ymatic receptions f cloth the color of made in a two-piece suit. be in shirtwaist er part was to be evening wear. The rimmed with flower respect the iste carte blanche. simply gor- exquisitely glossy were embroidered flowers, all carried narrow lacy braid. Over one of tissue, and upoh long sprays of small waist matched the s were short and there who goes a to be Jome s wom who has few gowns, will, after she has worn the dress half t remove the tissue outer she will have a gown yth trimmed with small ar nd then Such Pretty Evening Walsts. f every woman, e 0ld or young, dmires e gowns, it is noze the less ery woman has a particular he handsome creations that y in the evening. ;s many of these seem, with their arvelous applications, raised with their very curious nd their wealth of silk r hanging balls and serly arranged jewel 3ut there iIs woman admire them, and there women who do not long such a gown. is really no reason why every woman with social hopes should no ssess just And there not have one handsome evening dress. It need not e a decollete, for a great many of the handsomest gowns are not cut decollete, and it need not be too THIS ISTHE WAY_TO TIE THE THE cor use, for many of the nicest French importations are made of sub- stantial material. But it can be pretty, and it must be trimmed with some of the many little intricacies which make up so many gowns nowadays. In these days, when all kinds of trim- mings can be bought, there is no rea- son why a woman should not have a very modish dress, and if she be indus- trious she can have a French gown at American prices. In the embroidery stores there come fat little seeds in all colors, which, when scattered over the surface of a gown, look like French knots, and there come the dearest little lattices in ribbon and in braid, which are ideal for the trimming of yokes and the covering of stocks. But it is of the possibilities of the cloth gown that the faithful fashion writer must sing, for cloth now comes so thin as to look like veiling, though it wears twice as well, and it also comes in as many colors as silk and it can be made up as delicately as any of the very fine fabrics. It is as glossy as satin and you do not know it from the latter material except as you pinch it in the fingers. Raising the Line of the Waist. There is the slightest tendency to raise the waist line a trifle, and it is noticeable more upon the gowns of cvening than upon those that are in- tended for the day. Waists that were formerly drawn down in a very long and very low point are now finished so as to look almost round, and blouses that depended for their style upon the front curve are now cut off and worn with a wide, high beit. The new evening belts are a little wiTH EMPIRE SASH SHORT BACK WAIST to blame for the shortening of tne waist, for they are so very wide and so very effective. They are made of leather, of panne, of silk and of ribbon, and they are wide and are fastened in the back with a buckle. That is one style. But there are others. Miss Alice Roosevelt wore a wide white leather belt the other evening, with a white taffeta dress. The belt was made of suede, very thin and very crushable. It was laid around the waist fn many folds and the front was fast- ened with three white leather thongs and a white leather covered buckle. An evening waist of light brown lace was caught at the belt by a crush girdle of panne silk, which was pulled down low in the front and drawn out broad, so‘'that it made a very wide or- nament for the waist. This was fast- ened invisibly with hooks and eyes, without a buckle. Those who are slender enough can take this wide crush belt and clasp it round and round the waist with a great buckle, which comes in frout. Tall and slender girls affect this style, and are the envy of their stout sisters, and so do women who are short but not too stout. The stout woman must be careful to keep her waist line low, but the slender woman can revel in the new high waist line, which is a revival of the waist of ten years ago. And what a year it is for revivals! No sooner does one get accustomed to the long pointed waist, with its high back and its dipping front, than along comes the wide round-and-round beit, which is precisely the one mother wore in 1880 and 1890. The Lovely New Materials. ‘Woman carnot complain of monotony in materials, for these are as numerous as the styles. In the first stuffs of the new year there is noticed a new kind of panne silk, which is so exceedingly lustrous that it looks like panne velvet. This silk has a sheen such as was never seen before upon the panne ma- The wonderful sheen and the brilliant colors of the dresses that will be worn for evening from now until the Easter days —=Sleeve revivals and re- markable revivals of trim- mings and small articles —The belts that go round and round the waist, do- ing away with the long front point. £ s : % g terials, -nd ': is so velvety in Jjts pearance that many women are buying it to use as trimmings upon evening gowns, instead of the panné velvet, which costs 2 great deal more. 1t is certainly a year for glos stuffs, and the manufacturers turning out materials which outrival anything eves seen before in point of luster. And the luster is of a kind that does not wear off. It endures, and seemingly becomes glossier and glossier as the garment wears out. To the very last shred it is as Urilliant as glass. Louising is found this year in the new colors, anfl it, too, has taken: to itself a new and wonderful surface, and the new Louisines are, as one delight- ed modiste declares, a combination of peau de sofe and satin, a texture of the former with the gloss of the latter. And there is another new material, which is only a new form of an old material, and this is the dyed lace of the present year. Dyed laces will play a very important part in the fashion- able wardrobe, and it will well repay any woman to investigate them and to procure as many kinds as she can af- ford. \ At a Fifth avenue luncheon the other day one of the guests wore a dyed brown lace shirt waist, just about the color of breakfast coffee. It was a soft, deep, rich tone, which harmonized well with her light brown halr. The na- ture of the lace was a heavy imported lace of the sort once used for lace cur- tains and now called “furniture lace.” It was dyed all over, and the shirt waist, which was high in the neck and long in the sleeves, was lined with taf- feta. There are not S0 Very many taffeta linings these days, for the material does not wear so very well, unless one gets a very good grade or is very fortunate in one's selection. But a good taffeta has great wearing quailties, and, now, it is claimed that louisine for a lining is the best of all things next to a very glossy lightweight satin. Many persons are lining shirt waists and other thin material with a very nice quality of cambric, or lawn, or cotton stuff, and very smart some of these gowns are with their crisp, erink- 1y cotton linings, in good shades. The Question of the Sleeve. The sleeve question is one that does not go down, for it crops up again and again, and always with some new in- terest. Just now the point of view is at the wrist, with a lesser interest cen- tering in the shoulder. “Give me six pairs of fashionable sleeves,” said a modiste, “and I wil give you six fashionable bodices if you EMBROIDERED GADZE “AnTH FLOUNC = will throw in a little material.” Her idea was that the sleeve governed the gown and dominated it and made it from start to finish. And she is very nearly right. In one of Gotham’s most fashionable shops they were selling undersleeves the other day. The prices ranged from $5 upward and the sleeves were made of chiffon and of lace and of deep ruch- ing. They were elbow length and were of the kind which you slip on over the hand and pin at the elbow. The sleeve then hangs down fluffy at the wrist. This counter, which was besleged with women who were willing to spend $5 on a pair of undersleeves, was piled high with sleeves of these sorts. One sort was made entirely of deep ruching, all lace, laid in side plaits and trimmed with rows and rows of lace. When on the arm they fall and make a very deep frill around the hands. Another sleeve was finished with a neat little cuff of lace at the wrist while the upper part bagged dowmn.over the hand. And the third had a cuff with frills falling over it. All were in creamy white and, tru- ly, any woman supplied with a set of each would have a perfect treasure in her wardrobe for all the winter. How to Wear the New Sleeve. 1t you are the fortunate possessor of a coat with a very wide bell sleeve, or with a bell sleeve that is moderately wide, you are probably at a loss how to fill in the bell. True, you can sew lace in the sleeve, but this is not always satisfactory, as such sleeves are hard to get off and on. ‘Well, here is the newest wrinkle, one that was started by the leader of New York society and has been taken up by the leader of the London smart set. ' You put on your prettiest silk shirt waist. Then over its ample sleeves you slip a pair of chiffon undersleeves. You fasten them at the elbow, very much as work girls fasten on their oversleeves. And then you put on your street coat. The result will be very satisfactory, for - A JETTED frills of the chiffon will fall over tne hand, and a frilly, delicate, lacy result will be obtained. A great many of the new spring sleeves will be sheared off at the elbow. They will be cut off and finished In bell shape, quite flaring, with the edges finished with little floral applications and with small frills of lace and with all sorts of pretty trimmings. This sort of elbow sleeve will be a feature, not only of the evening gowns, but of the gown for day and for street at that. But the elbow sleeve of 1904 wilF be quite different from the elbow sleeve of 1902 and 1903, for it will have its full lace undersleeve, which will lengthen the sleeve and bring it down to wrist length. The undersleeves will be made of lawn, of lace, of chiffon and of all kinds of silk, aboundantly trimmed and made very puffy by the way they are tréated. And speaking of puffiness reminds one that the new sleeves, while very full at the wrist, will not be droopy sleeves. On the contrary they will be puffed sleeves, with the puffing made as stiff as possible. Instead of sagging from the elbow to the wrist and down over the hands, the new sleeves will be wonderfully ballooned and kept In place by the linings. So, if ywou have a pair of old-fash- ioned sleeves, with baggy. saggy wrist puffs, just take them and interline them with stiff taffeta. Or you can use a very thin soft quality of crinoline, or, better still, you can interline them with lawn. The puffs must stand out in melon shape. and there must be noth- ing soft or spiritless about them. The New Trimmings of 1904. It is delightful to study the trim- mings of the year and their perusatl administers a wonderful lesson in the utilization of small things, for some of the handsomest gowns are made up of things_which are apparently trifliog. The gowns are not fussy by any means, but small trimmings are used upon them in very effective ways. One of the pretty notes of the year is | A FeewcH QOWN WITH APPLIQUED LOWERS OVER AN EMBROIDEREC LINING - sounded In the bringing out of very narrow but very nice laces threaded with ribbon. Ribbon, very narrow, is run through the edge of the lace, just as one threads one’s underwear with ribbon, and lace is used for the trim- ming of an evening gown, or a day dress. And it seems to make very little dif- ference how this threaded lace is used, for upon one evening bodice there was a little lace around the low neck, ard through this lace there was threaded a very narrow black velvet ribbon. Upon another a little lace, drawn full of ribbons, was used for a yoke. “A very effective street dress had a hip yoke of ecru lace which came down to a long, low point upon the front of the skirt. And all around the edge of the lace there was run a narrow black velvet ribbon, making a very neat and very sharp contrast. Very narrow pieces of insertion, some of them no more than half an inch or a quarter of an inch wide, are threaded with black velvet or with royal blue velvet, or with berry-colored ribbon, and used to head flounces and to band the puffings with which so many skirts are trimmed. There are many new trimmings, made of picot edge braid and of all sorts of fancy braids, and these, if done delicately, have all the lacy appear- ance of fine lace. Irish lace, American lace and many of the imported laces can really be simulated by these laces, which are made of the narrow braids. And here it is that the woman with deft fingers comes out very strong, for she can do so very much with her needle and thread, or with her crochet hook and her fine linen. Final Word on Small Things. The subject of belts has not been completely exhaust 1 by the statement that belts are growing wider, for some of the new gowns seem to show that they are growing a great deal nar- rower. A very handsome evening gown was trimmed with very narrow claret- red velvet. It was worn with a_belt which ) as made of claret-red panne, cut very narrow and crossed in the middle of the front under a garnet buckle. It very frequently happens that some of the handsomest evening gowns are worn with very narrow belts, and these are brought around the walst and crossed very low in the middle of the front in such & way as to leave two arrow points, while over the points there is pinned a jeweled buckle. About the buckles too mueh can never be said. They are such marvel- ous things as to be really works of art, and their workmanship. as well as their materials, place them on a level with any jewel in one’s jewel box. There is something to be sald, too. for the ribbon rose which is used to fasten many a belt. It is a little round, fat rose and is seen not only at ics sta- tion, at the front of the belt, but it is used to fasten the front of many a low necked bodice. Madh of glossy vel- vet or of shining satin and finished with a little jewel in the middle, it is a very nice ornament for any gown. A few of the ribbon roses are sewed with pearls as though they were rain drops. Others have a smal' ~weled button in the middle to simulate the heart of the flower. Made in this way or made in that, the rose is pretty. And these are but a few of the things that are offered for woman’s beautifica- tion. And as spring comes on more and more beauties will be disclosed. 4