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THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. is rfascinated, for e reason, by a 1teresting wom- safely conclude r smile and rein that has woman's smile catches the down it has d properly 1l as at the n and made m bringing g her the heads served on a sil- th s neatly be a plain, insignifi- f she understands e science of say- and a little more, er lips and the will nev- »out spaces on r amme or the fit of The clever girl, e drawing-room ¥ her witticisms nay be a soctal light b ¥. but while she is entertain- eason, who sits nner, and while she is llectual admiration and e qui vive with her re ten chances to one be a wise, silly little the table.smil- down into his ving a single word. ng does not con- g of teeth and > dancing of a girl with a teeth, who works ght to keep up a perpetual g, Wi ps part on the slight- hout rhyme or rea- man to a frenzy for see if he can make woman may smile too s t little and too as too coldly. Even ble to an overdose verage is a certain type of woman who knows how to smile scientifically. She is e woman with the sympa- thetic smile most £z ting smile the masculine mind and heart; the slow, sweet, helf-wistful smile le that does mot flash once, but begins in eads slowly over the »ersonal smile, that is ied by a direct, significant ching glance, straight into own eyes. A woman who has vated this smile—for the sympa- e is invariably cultivated— make 2 fool think himself bril- an old man fancy himself a h boy, don't you kmow, and a gster imagine that he has, at last, d the woman who understands She need not be clever; she need be a good conversationist. even His Composite THE 4 SYIIPATHETIC, ILE THET Whatever a man says, no matter how deep, nor how trivial his remark, nor how much nor how little she under- stands of it, her smile will give him an answer that wiil be all satisfying. He may be talking of pates de fois gras, or discussing Wagner. He m mere- ly remark that Brown's broiled lob: is the best in town. Her smile w seem to say, “And do you think so, too!” Or he may declare that “Ibsen dwells too much in the ether,” and that same smile will say, “How clever of yola to put it that wa How per- fectly we understand each other!" And the man's heart will warm to her, it be a fossil or only a second- ch. woman with a particle of intelligence can cultivate the thetic smile. Only the who has not time to give a show in the c ne For the sympathstic smile is the smile of the listener rather than of the talker, the smile that says much and is so useful in the gentle a of managing a m to the woman with man likes be: he girl with a good, rty, frank, open smile —a smile that might be calied a lau and is indeed usuailly accompanied an {irrepre le ripple or gurg The frank smile does not begin in any one place; it flashes all over the face at once. Some women fancy that “a frank smile” means merely parting the lips and opening.the eyes wide, so that all one rei observes is a pair of big eyes and a good set of teeth. But a frank smile is a lighting up of the whole face. This is a smile that can- not be cultivated. It is the natural spontaneous expres- sion of the girl who is at peace with all the world. When a man is walking along hurriedly, with his weighing down his shoulders ing his forehead into a wrinkle L like a sudden dose of a stimulant to glance up and meet the glowing eyes of the girl with a frank smile and to hear that little bubbling The frank smile has thz same effect upou a man as the raising of his window tact any nd woman nversa- the sym- smile shade on a bright sunny winter morn- ing. It is warming and enl ng and cheering. But it has not the fascina- tion nor the personal significance of the sympathetic smile. There is a smile that to some wo 1en is «s natural as a din of a curl It is the significant smile, the smile of the coguette, the smile that comes with eves that glance out of the cor- ners and lips that are only half parted Some women are born flirts, and from the time that they first lure the male members of the family into bringing them taffy and sugar plums on the sly to the time when they begin to lure other girls' sweethearts away from them they understand the full value of the significant smile. Other women attempt, by fetching glances of the eyes and making a move of the lips, to cultivate this dangerous smile; but the trouble with the girl who does this is that she usually overdoes it. A smile that s too significant is as disgusting a3 tea that is too sweet, or a summer's 3 isn't any fun to talk to a girl's back, - | By Elsie Carmichael : . (Copyright, 1903, by Eisie Car- michael.) ELLO, Nan." Nan stopped swing- ing and lald down her book. “Hello, Dicky,” she | called, then she — laughed as she looked up into his lugubrious face. “Why, what's the matter?” “Oh, nothing,” responded Dicky, throwing himself down on the upper step of the veranda. “Yes there is,” contradicted Nan, extricating herself from the ham- mock. “‘Something has been doing, and you must tell me all about it.” Dick laughed &s he looked down at the diminutive figure with her imperi- ous little ways. He rose to his six feet one with an amused glance. Come out for a paddle,” he begged. “I am grouchy and I want to be jol- lied.” “Shall I paddle bow or sit and talk to you?” she asked, hesitating before she stepped into the green canoe. “Ah, don’t turn your back on me,” he said. “That's what Helen does, she always wants to paddle and it you know.” Nan loved to kneel In the bow and watch the new unbroken water ahead as they stole silently across the lake, but instead she seated herself among the cushions facing him. She had a tactful way of adapting herself to other people’s moods that made her & charming companion, “Isn’t it & corking day?” he said af. ter a long silence while he sent the canoe forging ahead under his slow, powertul strokes. “Yes,” responded Nan absently, as she trailed her hand in the water and watched the slow moving masses of white cloud piling up in the south. “So Helen always likes to paddle, does the?” she asked. “Always,” he assented. “She never is content to sit still for two minutes. She isn’t a bit restful.” For a moment Nan felt inclined to laugh. Dicky in his strength and with his superb physique was the last one who lopked as though his nerves need- er a restful person to quiet them. “She has such a lot of extra energy and vitality that she has to do some- thing to use them up,” she said. “Yes, I know,” cried Dicky, enthusi- astically. “Isn’t she a corking looking girl, Nan? Jove, she carries herself like a queen. And strong! Why she has more good hard muscle than many men. I love to ses her play tennis or paddle a canoe, but still sometimes, Nan, a fellow wants some one to sit around and listen to him and sympathize, don't you know?” “Yes, 1 know,” she sald thought- fully, “I have.a little of that feeling about Helen myself. She has so much strength and health that it almost tires one. Still she is a perfect dear, Dicky, and has a great deal of charac- ter.” Nan always was a loyal sort of wirl. ‘Yes, she has,” he sald earnestly. He laid down his paddle and lighted his pipe in silence. Then he leaned back comfortably against the thwarts and let the canoe drift through the cloud-reflected water. “Then there’s Betty,” he went on after a pause. ' “She is all that Helen is not. She is the daintiest, prettiest plece of Dresden china I ever saw. See here, Nan,” he sat up straight and 2 flush rose under his tam, “do you know I'm in & sort of & fix. Don't laugh, will you? . You must help me out, ' I think I'm in love with both those girls at once.” He looked so distressed and em- barrassed that ordinarily Nan would have difficulty in suppressing a laugh, but now 'the color faded from her cheeks and she looked at him seri- ously. “That is very hard luck, Dick,” she sald slowly. “Can’t you really tell? You must like one better than the other.” H s “It's like this,” he explained. “You see I care an awful lot for them both, and first I think it's one and then the other. The queer part is that almost always when I'm with one I am think- ing about the other one, and wishing £ were with her. It's awfully queer.” “It is strange,” she assented, with a little catch in her voice. “They are “s0 different that you like some things in one the other has not. If they could be made into a sort of compo- site you would be all right.” “Yes, that's 1t,” he cried. “Yonu al- ways understand so well, Nan. I feel you won't look on me &s a fool to tell you all this. I always do tell you things somehow. You see, I love Helen's strength and - health and beauty, but I'm always wishing she had Betty’s little sympathetic ways and wasn't so brusque, And then When I am in a certain mood'I love Betty with her poetic nature and her ;.mx m&qm;" uf“‘ o as though I would lke no Mhrthntomwn'othn‘h::d‘ _shield her all my life, she is so frail and helpless. But there are times when I feel so full of stremgth and life and energy, and then she don't Seem to enter Into things. It's then I love to go galloping off with Helen over fences and ditches, feeling the wind whistle in my ears and the ex- hilaration and spice of danger in it. Or to sall right into the teeth of a storm that would make Betty sick. Helen is a great sailor. Why she can ‘manage a boat, Nan—quite as well as you.” Nan flushed with pleasure, though he said it as he might have said it day that is too sultry. Mixed with the warmtk and significance of the co- quette’s smile there should always be a spice of the coquette’s indifference. For a coquette is a potpourrl. It is the very ilfusiveness of her smile that charms. There is a little smile that s might- ily overdonc by many women with dainty, piquant faces. It is the infan- tile smile. the brilliant, babyish smile, that means little but is full of the joy of living. It is a dewy smile with an appealing, artless glance and a care- fully planned, “unstudied” expression, a smile that twinkles like a little lost a smrile that makes the average vant to take a girl up in his arms and talk baby talk to her, a smile that wins love as a baby coaxes jam from the stern par a smile that even the “two-seat hog™ In a street car cannot resist until his morning paper is fin- ished. i The society smirk is a smile that is much decried, vet, while it is all arti- fice, it is one of the most useful smiles known to women. The society smirk is the cold, meaningless parting "of the lips vouchsafed by the average hostess, when the butler happens to spill the soup in her lap or an extra guest ar- rives for dinner. The society woman needs a cloak for her emotions, and the popular smirk is the most perfectly fit- ting cloak that she can wear. With this made-to-order smile at her command the popular hostess can cover every slip in the domestic regime, every em- barrassing situation, every personal emotion. She can greet her st friend and the woman she most dislikes with perfect impartiality of expression. The soclety smirk can cover a household full of skeletons. It can hide a social catastrophe and help make a social de- feat look like a triumph. It is the smile of the social martyr. Like manners, it may be artificial, but it is necessary for the benefit of the many. The society smirk is nothing more nor less than a habit, acquired by constant assoclation with persons one wishes to treat agree- ably. It is like a mask, which, after hav- ing done good service all evening, may Le taken off when one goes to bed at night. Like cabbages and potatoes, it may not be beautiful, but it is em- inently useful; and to a few—a very few—women it is becoming. To the woman who wishes to make her path through life an easy and agreeable one, the science of smiling is a most necessary study. Like acting or art or engineering, it is a thing in which practice can only make one per- fect. A, little theory may go a long way, but it is enough to remember these two rules: First, the honey of a smile catches more fiies than the vinegar of a frown or the pepper of a sneer; second, it is not the mechanical beauty, but the significance of a smile that makes it attractive. Knowing these two things and possessing a looking-glass the plainest of her kind can make herself popular with that star, New Storiette The Fad of the Hour to another man, “You see -what & hole I'm in,” he finished. “Yes,” sald Nan slowly. “Dick, I would go slow. You don’t want to make a mistake. It would about break my heart if you weren't happy.” She choked a little. Dick leaned over and grasped her hand. “You are a dear, Nan,” he said. “I know you will stick by me what- ever happens.” He puffed away at his pipe with his dark eyes fixed thought- fully on her face. The next day lan went away. A miysterious telegram had called her back to the great hotel where her family was staying, and she left Dicky feeling very lonely and forlorn. She was sitting on the hotel piazza one day a week later, a book open in her lap, but her eyes fixed dreamily on the distant mountains across the lake, when she saw a familiar figure swinging up the path between the pines that lead to the station. She started up and for an instant her heart seemed to stop beating. Then the color surged back into her face and she ran down the steps to wel- come him. “Dicky,” she cried. “How good to see you. Why this sudden appari- tion 2" Dick’s face was flushed, too, under his tan; there was a light in his dark eyes Nan had never seen there before, and in an instant she knew his secret; he had come to tell her that he was eastly wheedled sex that lo so much as to be smiled s B ARk ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. Rosamond L.—A complexion cream for the face, which will make it smooth and white, is made by mixing two ounces of precipitated chalk thoroughly with four ounces of cologne spirits, 9% per cent. Then add four ounces of rosewater, qua ter ounce of glycerin and two drams of extract of white rose. Bottle and always shake well before using. It is best ap- plied with a small spe Caroyln—Don’t be guided entirely by your feelings in the matter of exercias. When a person feels the least like taking exercise that is apt to be the ti needed the most. If you are , as you say, take your athletics slowly an k, jerky manner. Very little exercise dally—for five minutes, say—is much better than none. Camilla—A little salt dissolved in warm water—about quarter of a saltspoonful to half a cup of water—will remove inflan mation from eyelids reddemed by t wind. If your hands perspire freely k a jar of powdered alum on the toil Occaslonally use a little of this in water with which the hands are wash but don’t use it every day. If you going to a ball or reception, use al bath before putting on your gloves. P . John J.—The upper arm should measure from two to two and a half inches more than the forearm, The expanded chest should be eight or ten inches larger than the smallest natural waist. Light gym- nasties, without apparatus, will do one much good. According to one au! ity, wrestling is “the very best phy pastime.” It improves every musc the body, and nerve, patience, endura agllity, quickness and coolness are all in- volved. Carrie Careless.— word pomatum. about which you inquire, is derived from pomum, an apple, because pomatum was originally made by macerating overripe apples in grease. If an apple be stuck all over with splee, such as cloves, then ex- posed to the air for a few days, and aft- erward macerated in purified melted lard, or any other fatty matter, the greass will become perfumed. Repeating the opera- tion with the same grease several times produces real pomatum. According to a receipt published more than a century ago, the form given is: Kid's.grease, two pippins, an orange sliced, a glass of rose water and half a glass of white wine, boiled and strained and flnally sprinkled with oil of sweet almonds. Sallie.—To make honey and almond paste to use in massaging the arms, rub the yolks of two eggs with one-fourth of a pound of straiped honey and two ounces ground bitter almonds. Then add slowly ome ounce almond ofl and one- half dram each of attar of claves and at- tar of bergamot. E. E. E—It was Carlyle who, by his analysis of Tenfelsdrockh’s book on clothes, established the theory that so- ciety is founded on clothes. All men— women, that {s—are born equal; the ine- qualities develop with the clothes they inherit or agquire. Clothes denote not enly the means of & woman, but still more decidedly express her tasts and ed- ucation. ! f engaged to Betty or Helen—which? The color faded from her cheeks. Dick gave his suitcase to a bellboy and turned to her again. “Let us walk down to the lake,” he said qufetly. There was a new dig- nity about him that was beautiful in Nan's eyes. The shadow of the pines enfoided them as they entered the woodluni path. Their footsteps were hushed in the red-gold pine needles. Through the dim mysterious vistas of tall tree trunks gleamed the lake. Van,” said Dick, abruptly. “I've come to tell you something. You will probably think I have acted fool, but you must forgive me, dear —you always understand and make al lowances for me. I have decided whom I love at last.” Nan trembled and moved a little away from him so that the width of the path was between them. Then she looked at the lake b-ore her with steady eves. “Is it Betty or Helen?” she asked softly. Dick stopped and laid his hands on her shoulders, compelling her to look up. “It's neither of them, Nan,” he said. “The only girl I have ever loved is you, sweetheart. I did not find it out until you went away, and then I realized it. Oh, I've been so lonely without you, dear, so lonely. De you remember you said I ought to have a composite of those two? Well, you are that composite; it was always you, only I was blind before.” like a