The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 17, 1904, Page 10

THE: SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. Awan ST THAT IS AL TUC W NG AND IEDALLIONS X Artistic Linens in Ex- New Tones Are ked With the Needle I'ntil They Are a Mass of Beautiful Embroidery— Waists Are Made of Man- Jackets and Are Enough for the st Ocecasions. ‘ isite i | | 3 | darin’s (F wearing a ! th 1 d linen shirt waist. t embroidered ff a hand which the gr ery t -+ widow swept down a fashionable tea r day turn- was melon-shaped and very trim Yy served nder the slenderness of ock o to as a fair speci- t which is rap- broidered down with a very del- unon flow ant across the shou ged produce A little tucking com- ke and the shoulders, knack to wear a pecially will the require some The general st is that it is d is cut to give a g line from the ing possible is e 1830 curve. long front sweep, this ne from chin to belt, this effect and the great woman must do her ut- stand erect, or the grace of waist will be Jost. Itis a res a woman of fine e, Tull belt. ps graceful would be the best description of the shirt waist as it is It is a picture waist in . but it is a very refined ut one discordant note. ore than anything else is embroid- v used. In fact the laces are giving y somewhat to the embroidery fad and whole waists are covered with stitchery and sleeves are made fairly heavy with it. There are waists which are embroidered from side to |side and from one sleeve to the other with scarcely an inch left uncovered. { Shirt Waists at $100. ’ In one of the handsomest Fifth- avenue shops the other day there was a sale of shirt waists. Nearly ffty were knocked down and off, the price running from $100 to $150, far beyond the reach of the average person. The walists were in the Japanese colors and were remarkable for the immense amount of embroidery upon them. Further than this they were in no way jnoticeable, for they were cut on very '(‘ in lines, with a slight blouse in the imiddle of the front and the wide pouched sleeve. A shirt waist which can sell for $100 without a particle of lace upon it must be remarkable in many ways and these waists were dreams in color contrasts and in the weight and the tone of the silks that were used. One costly waist was in deep red silk embroidered with deep blue flow- ers. There were so profusely scattered over the surface of the silk that you could hardly put your finger down without touching a flower. The bloused part of the waist, the part just over the belt, was stiff with hand embroidery and the sleeve puffs stood out without any other stiffening than that afforded by the needie of the em- broiderer. ~ THE MEAT TURN— OVERS SF THE NEW STRING Liney These waists, besides being exquis- ite examples of handiwork, are all very delicately scented. An odor hangs over them which is lent them from long association with a scented chest and from many perfumes which were being sewdd into the walsts while they were being.made. Such a treasure as a heavily embroidered silk shirt waist is not to be found in the wardrobe of every woman. But she who owns one will distover to how many uses it can be put and how ap- propriate it will come in for any occa- sion from a luncheon to a very nice dinner. One of the most beautiful women in New York, a professional art model, a young woman who poses in the finest studios in the world, and whose gowns are marvels of artistic beauty, ap- peared at a women’s luncheon given in her honer wearing a shirt waist that was made of green pongee. Scattered over the pongee in great swarms were butterflies of @ bright velloew hue. They flew across the yoke, they covered the stock, they were seen in great profusion over the blouse part of the waist, and they made a very pretty trimming for the sleeve, coming down from the shoulder to the elbow on the outside of the arm in a great flight. Shirt Waists That Artists Wear, Quite different from this was a shirt waist worn by a ¥oung painter whose miniatures find a place in every art collection in the world. This young woman, whose hair is a Titian gold, wore a shirt waist of dark green actu- ally covered with an embroidery of green hydrangeas. These were . not bunched, but were scattered, one flow- er touching the other until the whole waist was covered. The stems, which were also green, were latticed and twined in through the fiowers, On another occasion this artistic young painter wore a waist of black cashmere covered quince blossoms, embroidered in bunches on the bust, with long, trail- ing stems which pointed toward the waist line. The woman who wants to make berself such waist would do well to “with ~ Japanese - select sharp contrasts, such as dark blue upon dark red, yellow upon a foundation of green silk, or deep red upon a foundation of black. In this way she will secure an Oriental effect which she could not get in any other way. A very handsome yéung woman, the wife of one of the most famous artists in this country, attended a dinner giv- en in her husband's honor wearing a shirt waist made out of a mandarin’s Jacket. Up the front there swirled a great gold dragon upon a background of deep blue, and all over the waist, which was covered with embroidery, there was a little fine tracery of gold threads, The waist was cut low In the neck, or rather it was cut without a collar or stock, and the round neck was finished with a band of gold embroidery. With a handsome waist of this de- scription a skirt of gold colored cloth could be worn. But, perhaps, in better taste would be a deep blue skirt with hip yoke embroidered to match the waist and with a beading of gold braid above a side plaited flounce.| This fills out the suit and makes the shirt waist a part of a shirt walst costume. ‘Waists to Wear for Afternoons. The afternoon shirt waist will play an important part in the world of fash- ion. It-must be made of washable ma- terial and must be all hand made even to the sewing of the seams. Its color is white and the manner in whicl it is trimmed is most charming. A woman who makes her own shirt. walsts purchésed ready made a very handsomé but very plain ‘shirt waist of fine white linen. All the yoke she placed an embroldery‘of ‘French knots, and for the making of the knots she used a changeable red and blue silk. ‘When ghe had thoroughly peppered the yoke with these knots she outlined it with a band of white wash silk. And bordering this band she placed a little trimming of white fringe. She chose fringe a finger deep and sewed it ‘o the edge of the yoke, letting it fall over (> THE 5 DoNE A 'S FINISHED gave the long shouldered, 1830 eftect, and looked’ very quaint in these days of Then, taking & couple of dozen of little lace insets, she let them ‘nto the walist; and, all around the edge of each little lace inset, she worked .4 hand. embroldery pattern, surrounding it with French knots. Then she com- pleted the waist by sewing. a little turnover lace on the neck and the cul And there is another style of after- noon waist, and this is the waist which is in plain colors, in light lawn, in buft, OIDERED SFHIKTWAIS T which 1s made of heavy cotton stuffs. This sort of walst is with lace insets and with bands of lace and with little lace medallions until it becomes very delicate in workmanship, looking very much like & work of art from one of the real lace rooms. And, speaking of works of art, there is a new industry among women, and this is the embroidering of shirt waists for their tashionable patrons. The pret- ty lacemakers of Iréland are also mak- ing up fine ghirt waists, and when they have finished th they trim them with the bust and over the shoulders. This blue red and green linen, and the walst lace of their ow . viaking and later sell v ’ . them in Dublin, Glasgow and Lendon to the American women who are on the bargain hunt for pretty lace waists. The washable satin shirt waists, too, will play an important part, for here one gets all the appearance of satin with all the advantages of the wash waist. Washable satin comes at low prices and it makes up into shirt waists that are beautiful for general wear, for they are dressy yet quletly elegant, thus differing from many of the very fancy materials which come for the making of shirt waists. My Lady in the Flowered Silk. Maud need not go into the garden to gather roses this summer, for she can pick them right off the walist of her silk gown. Beautiful silk shirt waists, all covered with a pattern of small roses, are made up in the fashionable shirt waist designs and are placed in th4 shop windows, there to beckon in thepasserby to purchase them. 'Thé. embroidered flowers are by all odds the most elegant, but the little flowered silks are pretty and they make up Into very neat little walsts for all around wear, These, If made of soft silk, will go very nicely under a heavy coat and will come out as good as new, unwrinkled and smart. They make these soft “silks with a box plalt in front, through which there are made large buttonholes to accommodate handsome silver-rimmed buttons, and they make them with masses of tuck- . ing, over which there is an appliqued lace figure. Again, they are made with closed front and with back buttoned in- visibly. - Many of the handsomest of the new waists depend largely upon their but- tons for their style. Buttons made of Japanese embroidery are set in silver rims, and they make dlmost a whole trimming of themselves. And then there are buttons that are formed by covering button shapes of silk, and around these are set dull gold rims, making a sort of picture button for the trimming of the waist. ) It is safe to say that buttons will play 4 very important part in the silk waists of spring, and that fringes and metallic decorations will be seen a great deal more than last year. But surpassing all of these in point of popularity is t heavy embroillery of the year, whi has stepped from obscurity into gre prominence and has become a very ir portant part of the wardrobe. Waists That Close In the Back. There is no denying the fact that the majority of waists will close in the back. The youthful appearance of the long, plain, straight front is a thing that is beyond argument and where is there & woman who will heglect that which is a certain guarantee of youth fulness? Nine out of ten of the finer grades of white waists close up in the back ana fully one-half of the linen and crash walsts are closed in the same manner. The unhandiness of the walst which buttons behind cannot be disputed. A woman who lived in a hotel will tell you that it costs her ten cents every time she puts on her waist, for the maid must hook it, and those who are travel- ing will assure you that the waist which hooks up the back is an unmiti, #sated nuisance. Yet, after one look at herself, and after one study of her youthful lines, the woman who has seen herself in one of these smooth fronted waists will rush off to buy another, for she knows that, in nothing else, does she look half so well. All waists are to be worn looser and this will be good news for the woman who is tugging at her back buttons and the buttons will be larger and the buttonholes more pronounced. Instead of being hidden under a slat they will stand out bold and pretty and the waist will button frankly by m s of buttons and buttonholes and not by the little invisible loops and the eva- sive hooks which were such a trouble last season. There {8 a French shirt waist which buttons invisibly front and back. The method is by means of the under arm seam and the shoulder seam. It is not a dificult thing to manage. And there is another French walst which does not button at all, neither does it hook, nor is it caught together with pins. This mysterfous waist, which neither buttons nor hooks, Is made of lace. The entrance is through the back. The panels of lace are them brought to- gether and an obliging friend sews the waist in place. It is stitched together with long white thread stitches which shut it and keep it in shapé. The Sleeves That Will Come In. “Sleeves will be of two kinds,” said a modiste, “open and closed. One will be about as fashionable as the other and it will be a question purely of choice. You can have the bell, which s flaring at the elbow, and wi 18 to be worn over an undersleeve. OF you ean have the great melon shaped sleeve, which is caught in under & DAITOW cuff at the wrist. For my part I prefer the elbow bell as dressier. “If you want to finish your sleeves in very fine fashion,” comtinued the mod- iste, “cut them off at the elbow, let fhem out in a full Bell and fialsh the bell with a white cotton fringe. Above the fringe sew a flat band of white silk ribbon or white washable satin. “There Is another way to finish your bell sleeve which should be only a little longer than the elbow. Take it and finigh it In points and under each point set a longer point of Jace. Between the points hang two white silk balls. This makes a very dressy finish for the sleeves. “And yet another elbow finish is that of the Victorian ruffles, which consist of three ruffles all the same length, caught on the inside of the sleeve and arranged so as to hang down, all of equal length, over the undersieeve. “But these are only a few of the many stvles of new sleeves. Just at this moment the prettiest sleeve is the cloth sleeve. with a cap of some con- trasting color. This is put on in the shape of an epauletté and the end is con?.mud right on down to the very