The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 29, 1903, Page 11

THE SUNDAY CALL., ’ 38 AT FOR T10LI AL MUILITAR S BLOUSE SOIT WiTH SGRE> SOUEDE TR MMMINGS) AND A GRE> SLVEDE S BELT How to give your winter hat the one deft touch that will turn it into a plece of fashionabla headgear—All kinds of fur wili be worn as hat trimmings—A very pretty hat and boa in the trousseau of Mrs. T. C. Platt— The new belts and the new stocks. | HERE are emall hats on the mar- ket, but they are so scarce that it is difficult to find them. In spite of the fact that the Jarge hat is hard to keep on the head, notwithstanding the circumstance that it catches the wind, the dust and the wreckage of winter, and that it is expensive to buy and worse to trim. the large hat is the hat of this winter. The inner solution can be discovered in the statement that it is becoming to woman, and with this knowledee nestling in her mind the woman who wants a new hat goes out and buys a BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. big one trim big hats so temptingly that it is no wonder that not pass them by. Who can seductions of a large black jtely soft, with its made n »d its tall square, soft 4 who can pass by the great felts, with their really mar- ather and ribbon trimmings? - edge of one light colored hat hung utiful silky fringe which fell over hair, taking the place of the lace of iast summer. Another hat was bordered with a little rim of lace cut out of cioth, one of those cut-out cloth patterns which are so much used for epplique and for trimmings. Apother hat was trimmed as to the edge with a little ruching of soft chif- fon with one of maline underneath, snd still another had a little border of the smallest ostrich feathers that ever came off a baby bird. ‘With their muititudinous chances for effective trimmings it is not to be won- dered at that the big hat, or picture hat, holds its romance; and that it is dearer to the heart and fancy of woman than the severe little togue. Yet there are many togues to be seen also. ~¥ HAT COVERE Sy RUBBETR ~EILANG A NET There is an undeniable fancy this season for treating a felt hat precisely as though it were & hat of straw. A beautiful round soft rough feit, in a shade of ecru, with the shag at least half an inch long, looking like the back of a baby grizzly bear, was adorned with stiff quills. Another hat, a beaver felt, with a square crown of medium height, was also trimmed with quills. Right at the back the hat was turned up and fastened with a long scarlet wing. On top of the hat there was a little scar- let silk trimm all laid flat on hat. And under the wide brim there was a wide scarlet wing spread out and sewed flat. Quills, wings and all the little stiff feather ornaments that appear on the counters every spring in wide ar- ray are seen this late fall ready for the occupancy of the winter hat. And so it is with the gay colors this season; for the colors that bloom in the spring and die in the fall have remained popular this winter; and the millinery departments look more like Easter displays than like the fall an winter openings. Part rly is the use of flowers no- ticeable; and you see countless hats of felt and of velvet trimmed with a nice little border of small pink rose- buds, which are arranged around the crown so that they touch each other, affording the only trimming that is needed by the hat. A great many economical and clever dressers now take their last summer’s hats and remodel them for winter sim- ply by removing the roses and the silk and replacing them upon felt hats for winter wear. True, the style has changed a little and the arrangement is slightly different, but the same trim- mings will do. A great many handsome hats are trimmed with bunches of pink roses, and among these are the rough feits, which need no other trimming than the roses which are massed upon one side in a great bank of color. Velvet hats with their crowns gar- landed with little pink roses are given a seasonable touch by the addition of tiny feather tips, set between the roses and so arranged that they fall forward over them. The Lady and the Fur Hat. Everybody knows how difficult fur is as a millinery proposition. As the salesgirl at the fur counter said to a customer: ““We sell these ermine bands for trimming hats. But, really, mad- ame, you will have to take the hat to a milliner to be trimmed. You will rot be able to handle the fur yourself. Fur is so queer!” A AUTOMOBILE D Wit WATT R And queer 1t 18 in the fingers of an amateur. But, taken in hand by one who is practiced in handling it, great results be obtained. Mrs. Thomas C. Platt, an October bride, has a very beautiful fur set in her trousseau, consisting of an ex- quisite erm tole with hat to match. The stole i y wide and is thrown around the neck. The enas hang down the front, and are so wide as almost to cover the entire front breadth of the gown. They gradually widen to the knees, where they are finished with a very deep ruching of chiffon. This lovely ermine stole is trimmed with three very narrow bands of sable, while a handsome sable head fastens the stole at the throat. The hat is a wide brimmed one, bordered with er- mine. As the new millinery runs you can use any kind of fur upon your hat and in almost any sort of way. A very becoming hat with spreading brim and low crown is trimmed as to the crown with a piece of sealskin. The crown is entirely covered with it. and the plece required is a circular bit of ~Fkin about twice or three times the size of the palm of your hand. It is placed smoothly over the crown and there is no other scrap of fur upon the hat. Pretty Wintry Ideas. A great many hats are trimmed with bands of fur which are put around the crown in ribbon fashion. A strip of sable three inches wide and five-eighths of a yard long will make a very hand- some band for a tall crowned hat. Mon- key skin and mole skin are ‘used in the same way and the finer grades of Per- sian lamb. The band of fur constitutes all the trimming required for the hat, except, perhaps, a bunch of bright, red roses which are fastened at the side, nestling right in the deptns of the fur. Fur tails are used upon hats and a little border of tails makes a pretty edging for a hat brim. They are tacked to the rim of the hat and they make a very becoming border for the face. Fur is very becoming in all its vari- eties, and it sets off the face beautiful- ly, for it gives that touch of winter piquancy and softness which i so es- sential to prettiness. And delightfully “fit” a fur hat al- ways looks, for it is so unquestionably seasonable and so undoubtedly appro- priate that there Is never any question regarding it. Becduse it is appropriate, as well as for many other reasons, the woman who can get enough fur to trim her hat is bringing it out and using it as a winter trimming. Orne of the prettiest of the new hats TTIE i was wrimmed witl¥a band of long, black, hnitation !;xal'ble which was lnfi! fiat upon the brim of the hat, with the }:urder Just projecting over the edge. The crown of the hat, in this case, was of siik, and the whoie m. a rather elaborate piece of winte ilinery. And a great many of the hats are e mil- e‘!ahoru!e and difficuit for the k liner to handle, though extrem: ty and satisfact P: ¢ beauty, ned with a i and pink t the back, for its tail crown v very wide band of s ribbon, which was knotted leaving s amers that huns to the waist. This was one of the fow stream- er hats of the season. At the front of the hat was a bunch of brown feathers, while the brim of the hat was bound with a very wide band of brawn silk. A Ladies’ Luncheon Party. e round fur hats are popular, as shown by aNittle group of them at one of the swellest restaurants in Goth- am the other day. The time was noon, the occasion a little informal luncheon party; the guests numbered five—a la- dies' luncheon must have an odd num- - ber to be very up to date—and all the guests were hatted in fur hats or in hats trimmed with fur. The first one, the wife of a well- known millionaire, wore a round Eng- lish turban made of chinchilla, the en- tire hat being covered with the fur, crown, sides and all. The foundatipn might have been wire with fur covering it, for the hat was-light. Another hat was very prettily trimmed with little heads ind tails; a third was faced and banded wjth very narrow strapipngs of sable; and there was a hat that had a sealskin crown. But the prettiest fur hat of all was an English walking hat in black felt dash- ingly trimmed with a chinchilia Poa with ends hanging down in the back. At another table sat a luncheon group; and by some strange coinci- dence—or was it done on purpose—all the guests wore felt hats trimmed with flowers. They were roses and bunches of autumn leaves, tiny button roses and bunches of white flowers, while ong hat was decorated with those brilliant red satiny popples of California. And how they are using birds this season. Away with the bird socleties and their prejudices. Birds are trim- ming everything and yet there are thousands of birds left, for the coun- ters are filled with them. Such a bird display was never seen in a previous winter. The Lady and the Bird. “Please, mamma, do not buy that hat for me,” pleaded a little girl, as her mother tried on a pretty brown felt hat trimmed with a long scarlet bird. “I am a member of the bird society, you know.” The saleswoman spoke up. “These birds,” said she, “are all artificfal birds. The bills are made of bone and so are the feet; the feathers are Dbird feath- ers, it is true, but the birds were not killed to obtain them; and, as for the body, it is all of silk, stuffed with cot- ton. The eyes are glass eyes.” The little girl lopked the scarlet breasted bird in the face and wavered. “If you are quite sure it is an artificial bird,” said she, “I will wear It.” Near by there were groups of little birds with tiny heads and long. spirited tails, and a bunch of these, enough to make a bird orchestra, were placed upon the crown of a large, round, flat hat, while another of the birds was sewed underneath, upon the bandeau. Birds’ breasts are wonderfully at- tractive and you would be surprised to note the colors in which they can be ob- tained. A very stunning hat of light blue felt was trimmed with a long light blue bird;: and there was no other trim- ming. upon the hat except this great spreading bird, which lay upon the top flattened out as though upon the nest. The long, trailing tails, whether bird of paradise taiis or not, are much the £tyie and the most beautiful eues cowme in orange color and biack, just the thing tu be sewed to the crown of a black Leaver hat. The Ostrich Feathers Industry. surprised a South African os- benoid How trich wouid be could he feathers these days as the the millinery establishm 5 “Surely no ostrich ever wore that feather,” said &« man, pausing before a black velvet hat trimmed with a sin- gle plume nearly a yard long. The color was a'&nowy white with the end shad- ing from a pale yellow into a deep or- ange. “Oh, that is a dipped feather,” said the little woman by the side of him, “and i am going home to dip my feath- €r, my long white one, n the dye pot.” The next hat was even more marvel- ous, for it was white with its end a deep indigo, while all the shades of turquoise ran down its length, s»ad'ng off into a turquoise green in spots. “It is e e the ostrich turn vy,” said the man. “if he only wou.d,” murmured the woman, “for it is tv be a half-green season :his year.” And a haif green season it is, with a little of the green's popularity lost in favor of red, which is so extremely popular. Red in all its phases is fash- ionavle, from the red which makes the Pop)] to ihe red of the watermeion, and back again to the red of the rose and the red of the claret. The red of the coral is another one of the fash- ionable shades of red. And then there is automobile red, which is the most popuiar of all, you will say, for so many street dresscs are built of it, doz- ens and dozens of them, all in the deep shade of automobile red, trimmed with brass buttons and with black braid. Red is a happy selection, for it goes so well with brown and it is so har- monious with both green and blue. It is, in fact, the color of colors for the poor woman with two or three gowns, while, as for the rich woman, there is nothing {n the world she cannot do with It. A Year of Stocks and Belts. The new stocks and belts possess the distinguishing characteristic of being novel. They are realy and truly dif- ferent from any ever seen before. and. marveious to relate, they are less ex- pensive than you expect to find them. The most fashionable belts, just at tide moment, are made of skin of one kind or another. The very wide suede belt, which is crushed down around the figure, and which fastens with a big leather buckle in front, is one of the best of belts, and, as it cames in a great variety of colors, on% can al- ways find something to suit. But a more spectacular belt is the calfskin belt, with the hair left on. A Dbelt of this kind was about three inches wide in the back, tapering a little toward the front, where it fas- tened with a little round brass buckle. ‘The color was a reddish brown. a regu- lar calf color, with white places upon it. The hair was short and if rubbed the right way felt very silky. A calfskin s%ck was covered with reddish brown hair on one side. while the other side was covered with white hair—just as the spots came upon the calf—and this presented a curious ap- pearance, for it looked like two stocks viewed from different sides. This was buckled in front under a brass buckle. A very neat belt is the pigskin belt, and there are all the crushable kid belts of the year, dyed in red and green, brown and black. The popular taste runs just at pres- ent toward the belt which must be crushed down in the back, for it is too wide to fit the waist. The front is cut tapering. This belt is hooked around the waist, is fastened low in front, and is pushed down as far as possible, for the low front is still the vogue. The back and sides-take on lttle natural wrinkles until a waist is formed. It is important to put the belt on carefully the first time. for the creases will remain just as they wers at first. e stocks are departing from their simplicity, for they show the oddest of features. Many are partly fur, and there are stocks that are made of silk. while a velvet strap goes over the silk and hooks in front. The Armenian belts and stocks are wonderfuly conspicuous, for they con- sist of linen embroidered in many col- ors. Some of them are as‘vivid as gorgeous silks can make them. and are carried out with a degree of native fidelity that is surprising. The em- broidering of a handsome belt makes a fascinating piece of fancy work, and his ts. A~ AaDE " VELVE"T HAT “WwhTH CORLING PLUME the woman with time on her hands and skill fn her finger tips can et busy on this very useful piece of in- dustry. &~ BRAIDED FSELVET HaT TRIMMED WATH wWiNGS for belts, and we worked in the ca —filling In the pat silks or in beads. no means gone larly g r Apache which are made in the most i designs. There are a few sea match the sealskin ¢l no matter what may must match the hat in col sign. MARGY'’S FAIRY PRINCE By Martha M. Williams. g - ———— (Copyright, 1903, by T. C. McClure.) E? TIm going to be will-0’-the-wisp,” Margery said airily —to the horror of every soul but one in her mother’s sit- tingsroom. Elwood's social leaders were gathered there, deep in discussion of the fancy dress fawn party to be given at St. Chrysostom’s for the benefit of the church guild. Since the rectéey ad- joined the church proper, there was quite a stretch of turf and shrubbery available. Therefore, Mrs. Lawson, head of tke broad faction in St. Chry- sostom's, had been for having daylight, with tennis and archery—of course for prizes. But Miss Gerard, the leading spirit among the high church folk, had outgeneraled Mrs. Lawson and won over the powers that were to her pet scheme of lighted greenery, booths, flower girls and fortuge telling. H'm? What will you do?" Mrs Lawson asked severeiy. “It has been ey impression all along that the—er— costumes should be subservient to the —well, the general effect.” Margery laughed happily. “You are quite right,” she said. “Never fear, but I shall be busy enough. It will be my province to lure in unwary travelers, and lead them on to financial destruc- tion.” “Margery, how can you? Mrs. Chase’s eyes rested on her daughter full of severe reproof. Mrs. Lawson sniffed hard, but Miss Gerard came gallantly to the rescue, saying: “You must have been born for the part, Margery. I don’t know anybody—at least any mas- culine body—who could possibly refuse to follow, if you wanted to lead him— and we all know it's the men and their money we are after. “Disgusting!” Mrs. Lawson sald aside to her echo, Miss Clare, under cover of the general laughter. Margery flung & kiss at Miss Gerard, saying sweetly: “Thanky, ma’'am! You have no need to dress up. You've been everybody's fairy godmother so long, you can’t pos- sibly be anything else.’ “Come home with me! Ned must de- sign your costume. I want him to begin right away,” Miss Gerard said, rising to go. Everybody else stared. Ned was her artist nephew, rich withal. She could not possibly be willing to match him with an Elwood girl, yet here she was giving Margery Chase, the great- est flirt in town, almost impossible op- portunity. Ned had come to Firstanes, the Gerard homestead, only two days before. As yet Elwood folk had hardly more than seen him—in the family pew Sunday morning and later driving with his aunt. Some mysterious excursion had taken him away early Monday morning. It must be he would be back before nightfall. Was Miss Gerard thus bent upon flinging Margery at his head? That was a puzzle so absorbing noth- ing else was talked of all the way home. Margery was neither rich nor of distin- guished family—even as to her beauty there were more than two opirions. Adverse opinions wavered when at last the lawn party came to pass. A slender, floating, misty shape, in trail- ing vapory white, bearing a slender black wand whose tip gave out inter- mittent flashes, nobody could deny her charm. Now and again the flashes came from the silver crescent above her forehead. They were rose red or spec- tral bluish or greeny-yellow, according to her humor. Whatever the color, they drew mightily. There was not a man on the ground but followed them joy- ously and lamblike to slaughter in the booths. Still it was not surprising. In day- light, and everyday clothes, Margery had before-time captivated every mar- riageable man in town. The rector, even, had not escaped. What wonder that Miss Gerard was almost her only stanch woman friend? Miss Gerard was radiant over the party’s success. “You're my lucky an- gel,” she said, patting Margery’'s cheek, + as they came together for a moment Just as the lamps began to dim and the lanterns to sputter The affair is a gorgeous success—thanks to And I have been so nervous ov Thank heaven that woman kept away." “What woman?" Margery asked un- der her breath. Miss Gerard answered in the same ke: “The Rickman woman —a semi-adventuress, separated fr her husband, but not diverced. Ned came down here because he was be- witched with her—and knew she was staying at Belmore. You know that is just six miles off. You have charmed my boy into forgetting her, I do belleve. 1f you will really do that you shall have half my fortune.” “I'll do it for nothing,” Margery flashed back with a laugh. Her lights were out. She had used them so prodi- gally that the tiny battery cells were exhausted. Ned had been very happy over contriving them, and slinging them in a silver lantern from Margpry's walst. He came toward the two women now without seeing them—they were sunk in a deeply embowered nook of the shrubbery. Miss Gerard gave Mar- gery’s hand a caressing pat, saying af- fectionately, as she nodded toward her nephew, “He's a good fellow, Margery, and good looking—besides you know you'll really like being mistress of Fir- stanes—after me.” “Isuit that place better,” a volce harsh and hoarse with anger sald be- hind them. The shrubbery parted vio- lently, letting through an overblown blonde in gorgeous Greek costume, who ran on as she shouldered between the other two. “I know all about your plot —also that Firstanes is entalled. Ned Gerard will marry me—nobody else! Marry me just as soon as my beast of & husband dies—and he cannot possibly last another year. Try as you may, madam, your will o’ the wisp shall not lead him away from me.” The last words were shrisked out. At the sound of them Ned hurried toward the group, flushing with shame, yet his mouth setting hard In the obstinate Gerard line. He took hold of the wo- man, and made to lead her away, say- ing almost roughly, “So this is how you keep your word! You promised me on honor to stay at the inn. Get back there! At once, do you hear? Other- wise—you will not see me again.” “If you come with me,” the woman sald deflantly, wrenching herself from his hold, and folding her arms, her large eyes fast upon him in a hypnotic stare. Miss Gerard stepped between them, her face very white. “Get this— creaturs — away — anyhow—Edward,™ she sald very low, the words coming hard; “let us have no blatant scandal— for the sake of—the Gerard name.” “Come,” Ned sald Imperatively, not even holding out a hand to the woman. She made one step after him, then sprang furiously at Margery, who stood apart with averted eyes, clutched the lantern at her waist, tore it loose, swung it high above her head and brought it crashing down with all her force, aiming to strike with it Mar- gery’s crescent-crowned forehead. Ned was too quick for her. With s wheeling swoop he interposed his own person, and caught the blow fairly between the eyes. It sent him down like a log, breathless, senseless, Inert. After one look at him the woman who had struck him ran screaming away. People rushed in from every hand, but M'ss Gerard waved them back. “Fetch the doctor— quickly! There has been—an accident,™ she said. “Not serious, I think. The— the strange lady who saw it is—easily frightened.” Margery knelt beside the prostrate figure, dabbling its face with water and crying softly. So Ned saw her when he came back to consclousness. He tried to rise, but she made him le still until the doctor came. He was not very re- bellious. Scales had fallen from £ eyes. As he lay staring into the dark- ness, listening to the subdued stir and bustle round about him, he saw how near he had come to shipwreck in his worship of an unscrupulous woman. If he had been a hero of romance, he would have made it up with sweet Mar- gery then and there. Being s manly mortal.deenly abashed hy the crowding sense of his own folly, he did not sveak until three years later, when by hard work he had proved himss'f a man among men. Of course she said yes— was he not her fairy prince? And whether or not they will live happy ever after, this much is certain, the world outside will hear no news of disagree- ments