The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 8, 1903, Page 8

THE SUNDAY CALL. Be Worn by relt, Miss wa for reason the winter Eir € » e them. For the w & that will tub. c, this of woman's, sst be tubbable. But fort of a dress thrown into weaned away e 3 too, of putting on te biiss of but- becoming waist, of of slipping a d of clasping a neat ye costumes, ye des! The shirt e heart of the summer girl or a take a century nd out of her ward- 1 the soctety ng winter shirt 1 in the morning the afternoon, os, ‘making girlhood, one , the other a me- freshest, velt had on the other day a t was made of very heavy deep blue, with the le.” It was coarse and look like hopsacking. ection, it was not of that being much more substantial color was the newest shade rather deep. s made with the baggy r part was trimmed with extended in rows from the shoulder down to the wrist. Then came ar mense puff with rows of fagot- ing ng around it. Then a deep cufr got stitched. The waist was trimmed with rows of fagoting. But down the middle of the front there was a very wide band of em- broidery with applications of coarse white lace mingled with the embroidery. The yoke and stock were a mixture of fagot exten work, coarse lace and embroidery, Now, there is no reason why, in tiis ¥ of grace, any young woman with a taste for needlework should not have a gown as-fine as that of the President’s daughter and no reason why she should not possess a shirt walst just as bril- la embroldered, just as industriously fagoted and just as nicely decorated with coarse lace. It costs very little, for it is all a question of needlework. The very thin materials will disappear as cold weather comes on. And In their places will come the cheviots, the can- vases and ‘such materials, with, of course, the fine wash flannels’ and the stuff waists. Heavy linens will be worn, too, all winter and all goods that are not con- spicuously transparent, True, an effort is being made to keep the very thin.walsts in style through-the winter, and waists of, organdle, of mull and of the very sheerest lawn are being bought for December. wear.. But it is doubtful if they will be’' popular. The majority of women will think such walsts inappropriate for winter wear and will keep them for the theater, for even- ing, for nice occasions and for chance dinner parties when no dinner gown is suitable or available. Lady Herbert’s Waists. Last winter no less a personage than Lady Michael Herbert, wife of the British Embassader, wore at a restaurant din- ner a shirt waist of white organdie deco- rated with choux of coral velvet. Her skirt was a black one with streamers of coral velvet floating from the belt. * Her hat was coral colored and black. She wore & seal coat and her outfit was con- sidered very youthful and smart look- ing. Those who like the organdie waist in winter can provide themselves with some- thing to wear under it so that there wiil be no worry about its lack of warmth. Under waists of taffeta with high neck end long sleeves now come in all colors and these waists, which serve corset cover and under waist combined, can be slipped on and the organdie walst worn over on the outside. Still warmer jackets THIS 15 THE wAYy Jo MAKE WL, g’ ”fvfl{ T come in the golf jackets, and there are lovely little tightly knitted garments Which are just the thing for wearing un- | der walsts that are very thin and far too transparent for winter. The much’ more ‘sensible ‘waists, how- ever, are those of very heavy linen and the' English waists, which are of black and white stripes ahd of blue and red and white. These walsts come in all scrts of striped effects and are very neat. The polka dotted walst looks very smart at the beginning of wigter and looks.well when the coat is thrown open. It comes in mercerized materials that look very-much like sllk and can be found In deep blue, in dark red and in all the other colors. Walsts of this description are made “up plainly and trimmed with handsome buttons, which are stationed Boldly “down”the ‘front. Simllar buttons decorate’ the rather severs coat sleeve. About the sleeve of the winter shirt walst a great deal.can ‘be sald. +For 6ne thing, it-canibe affirmed that it takes a great deal ‘of goods and that it is ‘made with the biggest bagginess in the history of the dress sleeve. . The Winter Sleeve A modiste was trying a walst upon one of her patrons the other day. It was a walst made of white linen, with an em- brotdered vine dowpn the front. The walst buttoned in the back and-had the con- ventional yoke finish and the neat, snug, trim, emart belt. s But the sleeves are far from snug, how- ever smart they may have been. Tight to the elbow, they Were ‘very baggy below it, and there were deep cuffs that fell down over the knuckles. When unbut- toned this gleeve fell down over the hand so as to cover it completely, and only when it was pushed up’on the arm and the wrist clasped with its pretty studs could you realize that it was a modern sleeve. Its puffs fell almost to the knees. But all sleeves are not of this exag- gerated sort. Many of them are decidedly conventional, showing just a little full- ness in the arm, while a strip of embrotd- ery runs down the sleeve from the should. . ,er to the eltiow, to the wrist. * « &0 i The trimming of the sleeve puff is a fea- “ture that 'must nét.be forgotten, andsin thils respect there’ls the widest variety for “pretty designs. Thc;.’xru.fi wide puff can beappliqued, embroidered or other- wise trimmed, and if tastefully decorated L Is ‘one of,the most attractlve parts of the costume. 7 Miss May Goelet, whose favorite color is rose, wears. a rose-colored linen, em- broidered in white, This exceedingly ef- fective combination is carried‘out, in-a shirt-waist which buttons in Frgiich fash- fon down the back. This leavesjroom for a very ‘wide panel down 'the ‘front, and this panel 1s a mass of roses, with leaves and stem$ all embroidered in white silk and whiteigbtton, the sflk gligtening beau- titully in the deep parts of the roses. The Colors of Winter. The:walst -1s trimmed with - fagoting, very wide and carried out in ros¢ and white silk. The openwork stripés“show & very pretty rose-colored underwalst or 8lip which sets off the walst very *well indeed. Again it can be remarked that there is no reafon why the woman of domestic tastes and handy needle, though of. _small purse, should not benefit by the fact that the winter's styles run mostly toward handmade goods; and again it may be sald that here is a waist ‘which she ean easily Take for herselt”if she will take the trouble to fashion it. 8 ‘While blue and rose and white are to be the popular colors, it cahnot be denfed’ that brown is creeping in and thet there will be some lovely gowns of brown linen, of brown cheviot, of brown canvas and of brown in all the other shirt waist mate- rials before very long. . Brown is - universally becoming, and, what is more, it.1s a change. There have been s0 many blues and so many grays, 80 many tans and so many violets and hellotropes that one turps toward the soft, pretty, cigar-colored stuffs with a feeling of rellef that they are not blue. In the new browna thera are all shades of Havana, of coffee, of burnt bread and burnt biscuit. There are all colors in brown, " froms the deep wood brown which is the color of a dead old tree to the bright cafe au lait which is one of tha " preftiest tones that can be found in the winter time, and each brown has its wel- come ‘and appropriate place. : Fitting a Shirt Waist. The secret of good shirt waist making is to have the back snug, so says a fa- mous shirt waist maker, and to have the front loose and inclined to blouse at the waist. The French modistes with thelr fondness for the snug-fitting waist cannot bring themselves tg the point of making the blouse shirt waist, and this is the rea- son why the French shirt walst is so zarely a success. But with the American shirt walst maker it is different, and some of the newest waists have a very handsome back, snug as any tallored dress, while the front is very full and very blouse. | There is a new way of making the shirt waist belt, a way which is seen upon the new and expensive waists, but not upon the cheaper ones. This method is called the split belt waist. The belt is cut at the sides and the back is set upon a band. The skirt of the dress is pulled up in the back 80 as to cover this shirt waist band, but the front of the waist, which is upon separate band, Is pulled down over the skirt of the dress to a long point in front. They may say that the front point is golng out, but it does not seem to me that it is doing so. If you will examine the latest French pictures you will see that the long-pointed front is still the Vogue and the longer the point the more fashionable the gown, apparently. Very stout women should<fot; fry, the long_front point, for.it is.rof.tryetthat by pulling down the walist to a po’m in the front a woman looks smaller. {It is the slim woman who benefits by thislong front polnt, not the stout woman, who cannot, by the way, afford to emphasize ber waist line In any manner. It is true, though it is a pity, that the stock is disappearing befors the Iin- soads of the linen collar. This very, neat article of dress is back agaln and will de " A FRENCH TF /61" wiTky FRONT oF L AcE— seen this winter iIn many guises. The plain high, straight band, turnover col- lar is fashionable and women are running to the collar departments to get it. It is only a year ago that such a thing as the straight linen collar could hardly ts bought, and women who were devoted to it were obliged to buy boys’ collars. But now fashion’s wheel has revolved and the linen collar is the thing again. They are buying these collars and wash- ing the stiffening, out of them. With an embroidery needle the woman of nice tastes now embrolders a pretty vine around the collar and then when it is completed she has the collar laundered again. This gives her something hand- some and smart in the neckwear line, Shirt Waist Collars. Collars are made up in blue linen as ‘well as In white, but there is a something ANV ELABORATELY about white that recom all other colors. e collars have the vine e dered In col- sets which are coarse ways. embrotd and there are wide tur de of linen of a faint with the 3 yriginal, for these show rough halred and i action, d ar Lt der of cuffs wver collar. They are extremely t ese sets, and can be made uvp by ne with & pattern ind tl and a serap of T Yeliow or is coml in and e yellow waists In linen 2. Some of them are are not. The yellow sho known as an amaryllis not as vivid as lemon s softer and warmer and cl It can be t those tints worn ‘with pink which take pink we Many of the new shirt walsts have & dash of color in them or a touch ef colow somewhere about them. It is a very sim~ ple matter to Introduce color somewhere in the embroldery and a still easies thing .F.‘ EMBROIDERED” CANVARS WAYST to Introduce color in the shape of & chew, or In the form of a little ribbon work, of as a background, set under some of the fagotting. Walists have grown as fancy as they can be. The notes of simplicity is lacking, look for it as you may, for they are elaborate In shape, In outline, in tint and color combination, and certalnly they are elaborate In embroidery. The woman who thinks she can make up a shirt waist on simple lines and have it pretty la much mistaken. The Linen Shirt Waist. The day of the linen waist has been af hand for some time, but now it can be truly said that the nignt is approaching for them, for some of the prettiest of the new shirt walsts are intended for evening wear alone. A certain society woman who is noted for her pretty linen waists has taken sev- eral old linen sheets which were family heirlooms and has converted’them ints shirt waists. They are of the sort of linen which can be made into drawn work; and they also take embroidery beautifully. One waist she has dyed Into a shade of corn color and Is embroidering it in the sumach reds. Ano to a rich biscuit broidered in bunches of wnite and purple grapes. You can do a great deal with an old linen shee igh to lend itself well to the dressmaking scheme. Miss May Goelet has some charming shirt walists, for this young woman runs to the sim style of dress, which In- cludes waists and skirt and a little jacket to slip on over the waist. One of her latest -and pretflest shirt walsts is In & faint green, elaborately appilqued with the,coarsest, heaviest kinds of Irish cro- chet lace, which is applied to the goods and surrounded with raised embroldery. The raised embroider indeed, and are, some of them, ver nsive. They are embroidered ov mne pad, which gives the raised effect. This kind of emb y to those who know how to which can be lear nipulated the embroidery five or forty years ago raised embroider since then_but i3 now A very pret the dry goods stor waist of needle, a If run -between very little work an e plain shirt waist is converted Into a nice one. The same trick can be aoplled to the faggoted walst—which is not difficult to do. A plain walst is bought and fag- goted at home until something new and pretty s turned out. The winter shirt walsts, which should be very durable, are, after all, not so very strong. Waists wear out m therr weakest places, and th hemstitching o gz serves weaken the walst: and the result is that it gives out along the lines of the open- work. Its days are numbered, once it be- gins to give and the waist is gone, There are wise women who take little nd applique them under- neath the faggotting to strengthen the goods, and so they manage to give the garment a very nice, long lease of life. The winter shirt Waist should have a sachet trunk of its own, for it well de- gerves the best.of care. It is not a walst of ordinary caliber, but a little work of art, and as such It should Rave every consideration paid to it In the way of its perfuming and its prescrvation