The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 25, 1903, Page 10

10 THE Pretty Garment for rs and the Picture Girl ly Enjoy Wearing It s Pretty Outlines and . Colors—The Picture ts of Paris and the Picture i Fifth Avenue. | N P~ o heard of the plcture hat / j the picture dress. But have the picture coat? e the main features of the ng, so as not to spoll a ted or not, as may please 1 sweep away charm- be worn e modiste only yesterday showed one of her customers a delightful with d a very a little wad- t could be ing monogram e or will come in, = , there is notk ng 80 cheering, » oat of seal or > tttle eun nd the furs of winter. A fine picture coat of broadcloth was L v chiffon, all laid in the tinfest ruffles. This a decided luxury, n who wants to own such ith shirred silk, or . n is too dear. Instinet. buying of a the woman or to preserve of the coat. feminine coat There is nothing e looking wo- " sculine in dress and in manner of wearing it, and it must be confessed t some of the coats of fall have a man. pe look which must be done away with before the coat will be pretty. 4 young woman strode up Fifth avenue e other day with a rolled silk umbrella er hand, swung smartly as a cane. wore a long ulster shaped coat of deep gray and on her head d a mannish felt hat adorned ibbon. Her gloves were castor ¢ and her boots were the heavy ones hich some girls affect. The result was ng, though probably intended to The Feminine ng, or coat. ulsive as a mascu Foge t contrast to this was a young woman who took her constitutional up the avenue In & very trim peacock blue glazed taffeta skirt, cut to walking length, and Jald in many little box plaits around the hips. The upper part was a three-quarter eilk coat with a very neat belt. There were wide lapels, profusely embroidered, &nd embroidered cuffs. An immense hat of the new Gainsborough type, Which shows & squere crown with or without the feather, set her off. i E &Jllu.,é,‘ i B i Wk k8B AUEEP RED = TP TURE CLOAK. WITH PITURE LAPE It 1s not necessary to be masculine in order to be trim looking or in order to be tailor made_and the best dressed wom- en are those who have found it out and are neat and smart but not mannish. many litue lace ends, by the narrow bor- derings of fur which the French like so well, and by the abundance of chiffon ruffiings. Mrs. Vanderbilt’s Cloak. But after you get used to them all, and learn how to adjust them, and how to wear ghem, you grow accustomed to your style of dress and you like it better than the old waist and skirt plan. The picture coat of fail is very much like a French garment in that it is all detail. One coat which iz a sample of the pretty things of autumn is of a shaue of claret red cloth. It is fitted in the back and there i8 a cape which comes below the elbows. The coat is sleeveless, being more like a cloak or shoulder cape, except for its fitted back, while the front hangs down in perfectly straight lines, The front of the cloak which hangs open shows a facing in blue satin cut in Greclan pattern, with seed pearls set in the pattern. The entire cloak is lined with white taffeta, and though dark in color is exceedingly light in welight. Mre. Reginald Vanderbilt, who has been considerably entertained in Paris, wears a cloak which would answer nicely for an evening cloak for fall. It is made of & black brocade, with & small rose col- ored design running over it. There is, of course, the inevitable shoulder cape, or wery deep collar, and this is edged with fur laid on in the very narrowest strips. The bottom of the cloak has three silk muslin ruffies and the front is trimmed with & jabot of silk ruffics. 5, ”~ The French are exquisiely feminine in their methods of dress, and this is per- haps the reason why they for so many 3 ed the world in all dress matters. Ir thing they suffer from too much dress, from too many frills, from too much detail and too much fuss. The woman who puts on a French dress for the first time wonders how she will ever get out of it, for there are fastenings in- numerable. 5 The French dress is distinguished by the bows that hook over and fall into place, by the frills that fasten invisibly and hang as they should hang, by the THE CHANGERBLE TRFEETH f7LL CORT WITH CANVRS FACINGS, "~ CALL. AP d!fie way 1o wear it e —— W . "o i i A OIVVER N Ca04a They have a way now of trimming the fall coats with fur that is very pretty, and as it takes only a suggestion of fur, it could be adopted by any woman. The fur is cut—and to cut fur, always cut on the wrong side—in strips that measure no more than a quarter of an inch. This makes a very delicate edge. And the strips are laid side by side, an inch apart in many rows, upon the wide collar or down the front of the coat. It is particularly swell to trim your skirt with very narrow bands of fur, the narrower you can cut it the better, so that your skirt and your coat match each other. But this is not necessary. How to Fasten Your Coat. The picture coat s left unfastened se that the picture gown is visible and the girl of autumn can take her choice be- tween matching her fall hat to her coat or matching her hat to her gown. The plcture coat files wide open and many of the coats have actually no way of fasten- ing. But a much better style is the double breasted picture coat which Is Intended to be worn wide open with both lapels rolled back. On occasicn, however, the coat can be closed in a double breasted manner and the front made as secure as possible, and as tailored in effect as any coat that was ever made. After the picture coat is closed, and its double breasted fronts are lapped, it is fastened invisibly. To fasten such a coat invisibly there must be flat buttons of crocheted material and little loops also crocheted. The loops are slipped over the buttons, amd there you are. You can scarcely see the fastenings. Still another way to fasten the plcture coats 18 with very large crocheted orna- ments, which can be in striking contrast to the coat. Upon the ecru colored coats there are black crocheted balis and hang- ing crocheted cords and tassels, balls and loopings of all sorts. These make very bhendsome fastenings for the coat, But the jewelers, and those who enjoy seelng & woman spend money for her decoration, are encouraging the wearing of the handsome jeweled ornament, and the are the lovellest fastenings con- nected by chains and placed upon the front of the newest of the picture coats. Ornaments of this kind can be trans- ferred from coat to gown and from gown to coat, and so kept forever so that they are not such extravagant notions as you might belleve. It is very often the case that a woman, COAT at the close of the season, will find her- self In possession of two or three old coats, left from summer time, with the prospect of buylng a new one far in the distance. Old Cloaks Made New. To a patron who owned a long cloak of gray ladies’ cloth a man dressmaker who 18 celebrated for his ingenuity in turning gn old wardrobe into an entirely new ome, sald: “Take your old cloak, madame, and have a pattern stamped upon it. No matter how solled the cloak may be nor how worn. You can have it cleaned and’ the worn places will not show. “Now take narrow taffeta ribbon and applique it to the cloak in such a manner that you trace the entire pattern. Do not embroider it, except a few stitches here and there, where it is necessary to keep the design. But let your ribbons carry out the pattern. Keep all in one color, for it 13 dangerous to try different colors upon it. ““When this is done your cloak is trans- formed. But you must add a deep collar which shall come down to a very long low point in the front and lle flat over the shoulders and across the back. “If you add velvet cuffs your coat will be complete for fall wear, but if you still desire more you can transform the cloak into something extremely dressy for evening wear. “Taking enough chiffon ruffling for the purpose you can trim the whole foot of your cloak with it and you can border your wide cape with it. You e now something that is really dress; This may be a hint to the woman who would be right up to the scratch in fash- fon’s march. At a luncheon given to Sir Thomas Lip- ton the other day, one of the guests wore & very handsome gown in shamrock green cloth, trimmed with deep flounces, which extended all the way up the skirt, five flounces in all. They were laid on flat and were embroidered upon the edge in a small design in very light green silk with white knots peppered through the pattern. Over her shoulders was thrown & cloak In biscult colored pongee, trimmed with biscuit colored lace. The plcture woman wears a very large bat and, if she be clever, she will tak the advice of a Fifth avenue milliner who said: “QOh, yes, we are selling the fall pic- ture hat weeks in advance of the seaso end the reason is this: The high- crowded Gainsborough is back; women are wearing the square crown with a band around. It is a wide velvet band with a little bow of velvet at one side. That is the only trimming and ail is in black. And of all hats this is the most useful. The Coming Big Hat. “When the woman of fashion wants to wear a white gown she takes a little bunch of white tips, six in number, and fits them In under the velvet bow so that they nod forward in bewitching manner. “When she wants to go to a fall wed- ding and to attend a wedding breakfast afterward, she will dress all in turquoise dblue and tan colored lace; and, at this Juncture, she takes out the white feathers to how many uses one beautiful Iaru‘ Gainsbprough hat with dropping tended cles can be put. “And then,” the hatter went on to say “hats are treated to different t just as walists are changed by on one day a white lace collar ar = other day a new stock. - It takes but a minute to unfasten a feather and to ad just a rose and the hat Is a new one A word to the wise woman Is suff in this respect. Speaking of the new cloaks brings one to a pretty wrinkle which is being intr duced In many of the nicest of garments. It takes a practical fo 1 a form that is certainly much apprec ated. It is prosaic for it is nothing more nor less than a new dress shield, designed to protect the delicate fabrics from heat of the body. That such a shield necessary all who have wogn the chang— able silks, the Louisines and the light materials will attest. To make one of these new shieids. they are now made by the best of dress- makers, you buy an ordinary pair of shields and cover them on the outside with & bit of material the same color as the coat. You then set them Into the armholes with invisible stitches or with the smallest of safety pins. They are now absolutely invisible and that save their weight in diamonds before the sea- son is out there is not the slightest doubt Onee the trick is learned you will never forget it. The New Shirt Waist Suit. There {s another autumn wrinkle for the picture woman with the picture hat and the picture coat and this is the autumn shirt walst suit which goes under the coat. It matches the coat in color and often In materfals. But its point is that it is & dark suilt with the waist and the skirt just allke. They are made In one plece, that is, they are sewed together at the belt line, so that one belt answers for both, and a woman puts on her skirt and waist all at once, hooking the skirt and buttoning up the walst. After the long wrestling with walst bands, to keep skirt and waist from sev- ering their diplomatic relations, a depart- ure of this kind is hatled with tearful gratitude by the woman of progress who hastens off to purchase such a gown at once. A very large spider web formed the con- necting link between a handsome fall calling dress and a fall calling cloak. The dress, which showed a beautiful royal blue tone, was embroidered in front with a gray spider web done in silk. The cloak, which was also of royal blue, had three small webs running up each side of it The top of the hat, the crown. also showed a spider web, thus making the whole suit match At a dinner ziven to Sir Thomas, for dinners galore have been spread before the Knight, there was a guest In a con- servatory cloak, which is . cloak with wide sleeves—a dinner coat it might be called. It is worn with a decollete gown signed to protect the shoulders It can be slipped off dur- s s they loak was made of piece lace over a I > same color all In ecru. The in a bunch of black kne where the f oak fa. —_—— ast was fou s upon the bust There abounds in Paraguay a growing to the stature of an ordi chestnut tree, from which a kind of vege- table silk is obtained. Mr. Ruffin, United States Consul at Asuncion, says he be- lieves it can be woven into threads, but tree, A TRI-CORNE PICTURE HAT WITH ChIFEFon mnp and slips a turquoise feather under the hat band. This feather is half a yard long at least and curls around the hat and falls off at the back in true Gains- borough fashion. “For a garden party she packs the hat with summer roses. There is no telling A RCE Py TR CLORAK, the chief use at present suggested for f is In stuffing cushions and quilts, fop which purpose it appears to be well adapted on account of its extreme light- ness. When removed from the bolls, which are six inches in length and about four and a half inches in diameter, the substance resembles a glossy down. 4