The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 20, 1903, Page 10

FFUR Cot-LRR WITH SToLE VY. WITH SKIRT ROLRLL UR PAGET, leader f the Queen’s set, has & new P necktie. s made of Persian lamb width is about four with white satin and ugh when tied to come :sts this Persian lamb get ad T over her fall uit and sounds he wearing of winter s dre being severely rushed, le discussion; for, in there are plenty of lady has begun to The first furs ve. But, oh, ' how w perfect in color, how w almost seductive in their £ sines is rth & few dol- furs in their season, be- and while the upon them. t fur season there ve already s are begi e. You get e occasional cold itlous and impa- y boa or a collar- r supply s of an evening wide stoles and in at are lined and thrown boa fashion. Furs > be lald aside and at are worn as ought out as early possibly be made ng array of new furs one notices the old w various ways. One ture in fall wear is furs are cut up and Furs that are r g - ss de into kimono < s and back and with kir s furs which would } red in grandmoth- e r y cut into strips for t ming of long coats. . r iies are among the de- € re y cost a great deal a s no such thing as E a s The fur auto coats that . els are selling for $2000 and s rtunate to secure a good s ats there are some very nice t as seal will hold its own € r B y &s good a thing as aw w buy. One of the best e s the little, tight-fitting snug and back, and only hip eng This is furnished with a wver; - ® ar and with broad lap b s are cut into & very large bell B which is being copled by t » afford it is the three-quar- t 4l coat, coming below the hips and 1 ery snugly. Its collar is a wide turns over in sallor fashion, ng the neck exposed, while fits sleeves are coat sleeves with the full kir cuft, which is very wide so to ehow the dress sleeve Still another seal model is the seal auto- ch is bandsome enough to an- dress garment and which will by those fortunate enough to amb, baby lamb and all the i ages of the Persian lamb will re widely the re well without making it seem ulky and on this account it finds with those who could not wear sable or any of the other thick f fur. Lamb is also exocellent as g with astrakan, which border and for the making ur collar. a is still the daintiest of all fur ngs and this year can be found in pensive grades, showing a great markings. And another fur be seen a great deal this sea- e of all kinds, the Russian the American, the real and ation, sable that is glossy and and sable than can be bought ew dollars on the fur counter. is this season to be the fur of pretty furs. It has eome in with a much greater popularity than ever be- fore and the rush for ermine will be un- peecedented. Of course, this brings up the price and once more my lady is called upon to open her purse strings to the ut- t most r ermine costs dollars where other furs cost cents, and she who would own a stole of ermine and ermine cuffs end muffl must be prepared to pay the cost . very important article of dres The very wide fur collars will be much 5 and the collars that have stole ends. Thé deep shoulder cape of fur with tabs that hang to the foot of the gown will be worn in ermine, in seal, in sable, in lynx, in cat, in monkey, in lamb and in chinchilla. This shows that a woman can have a great variety from which to make her selection and that she need not choose an expensive fur unless she be so in- clined. Fashion leaders like Mrs. Burke-Roche, Mrs. George Gould, Mrs, Cornelius Van- derbilt and her sister, Lady Michael Her- bert, are indulging in some very hand- some fur garments. And they are havs ing them made in odd rather than con- ventional ways, Mrs. Gould has a stone marten set with deep collar and stole ends which is to be worn with a granny muff. She will wear this with a suit of castor gray panne. The granny muffs are lovely in their picturesque beauty. All of fur, without trimming of any kind, and not decorated by as much as a bunch of violets, they are to be carried upon the arm or in the hands: and they make in themselves a Some of the granny muffs are as large around as TRUTIFEL Vo1 7os SHINCHIL LR & barrel and almost the same shape. The squash *muffs deserve some notice, for they are made of different furs and are shaped In very large squash fashion. The watermelon muffs, so called from their size and from the fact that they are striped llke a melon,sare made of mink or of striped chinchilla, and they are carried upon a tiny gold chain sus- pended not from the neck, but from the belt line, Many women are wearing gun metal chains around the walst to which a muff is attached. Others are wearing the muff caught by a chain which is pinned' to a clasp upon the breast of the gown. Others toss & narrow silver chain around the neck and suspend a muff from it. Immense muffs so large that a wom- an’s face becomes invistble behind them, are supported by flower chains in the shape of rose petals which are fastened invisibly upon wire; and muffs are sus- pended from violet chains also fastened upon slender wire. Chains of orchids and chains of daisies are run through. the fur muffs and they make very delicate sup- ports for the same. It is a day when delicacy and -vigor seem combined in a woman's gowning. THE DAY CALL. The wild furry animal made up Into coat and muff is trimmed with violets and chiffon, and so beauty and the beast trav- el together to make my lady securely pretty. Roses trim a great many of the daintier of the fur garments and where there are no roses visible you are pretty safe ‘in counting upon a rose brocaded liring or a lining: embroidered with roses. The day of the plain lining the wane and the day lning is at hand. The lining of shirred chiffon is lovely and the lining that is composed of little chiffon ruffies all lald on closely together, one touching the other, is also here. . These chiffon linings, ‘which have been used for several seasons in opera capes and coats for delicate wear, are now made serviceable an In- ner lining of China silk, which makes them warmer and more durable. The fur coats with brocaded linings are many, and very durable they are. The lining is almost as handsome as the outer coat and when the coat is thrown open it displays & color scheme that is in har- VEICY W) WILL BE IV YOLUET mony with the dress. Those women who have plain coat lin- ings of white or black or blue can make them very lovely by a little hand embroi- dery, which can be put on with long stitches that work easily and which give excellent results. Some of these stitch- are very unique and Russian nd queer little Russian animal The Russlan tendency everywhere visible in the shape of Russian fancy work and Russian embroidery carried out in the dress designs. A sealskin coat, one of the sort that is usually left un- adorned in its plain beauty, was trimmed with deep cuffs of Brown panne, which were embroldered in Russian designs ex- ecuted in green and gold. The embroidery, though showy, is far from difficult and «s= he executed by any woman who is mistress of needlecraft in its amateur stages. It is a pity that furs have soared so far skyward, for there are many women who would own them if they could, yet who hesitate about spending the hundred or 83 which is the lowest estimate at which they can be bought. Yet, for the woman of small purse there is a balm which Is most soothing. In every good fur store and in every de- partment store there are bargain counters in turs. This does not mean the reduced fur, but the fur which is an imitation of the real fur, and which, if you cannot buy the real, is just as good. In these furs there are some that can only be told from the very expensive furs by the e of an expert, and thers are others that re- quire even more than the eye to tell the difference. d there is another kind of eheap fur and this is not the reduced fur, but fw which Is never expensive. Thers are soms ns, some cheap gray furs well made and nicely wo » are very whit as good for the woman w dresses on a little a year as the more & a very large fur store the other de stood two women, both pretty, both we dressed, both stylish and both bearing tb p of ladyhood. They were looking & One, whose attire was a little rich than that worn by the other, was balanc- ff upon her hand. It was black, in every hair and a sheen Its price was 31000. d. The other woman held in her hand s very ha ome black muff, with a luster in its texture and cut in large, alluring shape. Its cost was $18. * a bar- gain,” sald she, “and I will take it.” The two muffs, worn with pretty gowns, would have much the same look, though the $18 muff will wear out long before the other one. But for a season or two it an- swers the purpose, and if cut tn pumpkin, in lemon, in granny or in pillow shape, It is very smart indeed. The piliow muffs are lovely, and one feels inclined at sight te lie down upor them. They are very large, very fl and they bear a striking resemblance to the floral emblems upon which one reads the words “At Rest.” It seems a sin to suggest such a thing, but one may sin occasionally In order to look pretty. And w woman would hesitate about such a all matter as sacrilege when her good looks are in the balance? Lovely old pleces of fur, old fur coats and muffs that have feit the finger of time are taken and cut up—ruthles: slaughtered—into the making wide strips, which are w are bordered with these very n strips of fur and belts are furred a the edge. Not even the most optim would suggest that these pin-wide s add anything to the warmth of the gar ment, but that they add to the beauty there is no doubt at all Ermine, more’s the pity, is cut up and is used uvon evening hats and day hats It is made into nice little pudding bag crowns and it s cut In pin stripes be mixed with chiffon bows and chiff paintings which are to be worn in the winter when the snow flies, The long haired furs make nice border- ings and they give & richness to the gar ment ch you do not always find wt the fur is short and stubby. Mink, this reason, does not eut up so we! inch-wide strips, though it does ve: ly for bands upon skirt and for la saflor collars. The sallor collar of fur is a thing that will be seen frequently. It is cut sailor fashion, or in imitation of sailor fash fon, sometimes with the ends squared and sometimes with the eneas rounded. And 1t is cut in dlamond shape with the point coming in the middle of the front and in the middle of the back. It is wonder- ful to note the variety of ways in which they are using furs this season and cu- rious to note the manner in which = woman can cut up her furs to make them fashionable.