The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 16, 1903, Page 10

THE SUNDAY CALL. DETAL ow AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. WOMAN should buy h walsts standing up, and = full length mirror,” declared the head of a shirt walst de- P ent. “And she should try them on before 1 know it wou bie,” con tomers were to t res £ b of tro on their y do belleve run It would be a saving o tience and of money ® r The woman who tries rer shirt waists in the store e them never br back to be exchanged; an, is very rare 1y that e shirt wa that is tried on in the store fafls to give perfect satisfaction We have made many permanent custom- ers simply by insisting that the waist be tried on before it is taken hom “Of course the excepti the case of the w true man of perfect figure, wk of the measure. And there many of this description the most important reason is that women never know how they wili look in & garment until they put it on. And not must they put it on, but they must and in front of & full length glass and iook at themsel waist, skirt and all. A waist that looks all right on the coun ter. or on the figure, or when viewed with & hand glass, will look entirely different when the woman sees herself full length. ake the new ** seid she, “which trimmed with appliqued trian- » runs are a f slik. The which are of delicate fabric are made on the style ning down the back. fronts and the baggy vart of the sleeves are trimmed with the silk trian- gles - these are put in place with very emall stitches. The effect of the trim- ming is 10 make a figured waist. y aboul one woman in a dozen looks we these new waists and the others ook dowdy. To help them out they have mow & way of striping e waists with narrow bands of ribbon, or of pin tucking the waist, which gives it jdst the right emount of chic, so that its awful plain- ness does not come too hard upon the woman whose figure is not perfect.” with this plece of advice the head ©of the shirt waist department walked away to show the new midsummer crea- tions to some walting customers. There is one very noticeable thing about EMBRODERED the waists that are now belng sold and this is the fact that they are designed for next winter wear. When you a walst now, be it taffeta or organdie, it is understood that you are to wear it as long as a rag of it remalns. It is cut in such a manner that it looks dressy for any season, and it is nice now and will be still nicer later on. All of the thin lawns, the challies, the is and the organdies are trimmed with nd made in such a dressy way thas they will pass muster in a drawing-room in cold weather. And many of them are very handsorgely trimmed with silk fag- oting, making them dainty little works of art Of course, the waists will be entirely too thin for cold weather wear unless there is a nice and sufficient underwaist, and for this purpose there will be some very delicate corset covers made of fine flan- nel, with long sleeves and high neck, so that a warm lining is provided. The flan- nel will be silk flannel and in certain grades of this silk flannel the luster is =0 high as to look like satin, seen through the meshes of the gown. Some of these show beautiful bands of lace insertion. And {1 is only right and proper that the summer waists should be worn next win- ter. It would be a pity were they to be cast aside at the end of the season, for there is so mucn work upon them that they' ere worthy to hold a permanent place in the wardrobe. For Summer or Winter. A very nice example of this In found in & tucked lawn, which is laid in panels of tucking and insertion, each panel being no more than one inch wide. The yoke and stock are composed of very small squares of white lawn fastened toge with hemstitching. The entire walist is mede by hand, and one can just imagine the very great amount of work that was put upon it before it was completed. Each little square was hemmed, then joined to the néxt square with fine hem- stitches. Many of the nicest summer shirt waists are made with an eye to being worn in the winter time. They are provided with inner waists made of taffeta and tiese inner waists, being scparate, can be re- moved and put away while the hot ‘weather lasts, then brought out for win- ter. In this way a waist I$ given a very long lease of life. 1t looks as though nothing new could come in for winter beyond that which is already seen or indicated. The early fall supplies are so abundant and so beauti- ful that woman will invest in them and will hesitate about throwing away her purchases for others a little later on. It is the best of economy to buy a waist now, for prices are low, goods are marked down, and you can get walsts for $5 and less, waists that were $10 earlier in the season. New goods are constantly arriv- ing, and the dealers feel that they must get rid of the old at any Bacrifice. If a woman is not too particular about buying the very latest, and there are few women who can afford to be critical, there can now be obtalned the cholcest and most beautiful walsts at prices so low as to rightly rank in the bargain line, whether they are on the bargain counters or not. A woman, on bargains intent, came in to town the other day to replenish her summer wardrobe a little. And, of caurse, the thing he most desired was a nice shirt waist. A Little ~Slm):pmg Tour. Going to a good shop she bought a waist of lawn of the most exquisite tex- ture. The color was a clear blue white. Set into the sleeves were very wide bands of antique lace while great pufis of the lawn fell at the back of the sieeves. The uppers were tucked and so tightly made as to fit the arm like a glove. The yoke was one of those two storied affairs, looking like two yokes. A square lace yoke was bordered with a band of organdie with hemstitching on each edge. Then came another yoke-like square aiso bordered with a band of organdie and then another. Bands of lace went down the front and the walst was fastened in the middle of the back under a wide slat of organdle. ‘Walsts showing antique lace, and walsts trimmedswith “furniture” lace and waists that have the Russian, Armenian and Orfental trimmings, will all be fash- jonable next wintef, and it is the part of wisdom and of esconomy to purchase them now, for they will hold their style well and look nice as long as a rag of them remains. 3 And, of rags, what a season {t is tor the girl who can do her own mend- ing. Big pleces of coarse lace are set ig over while the nimble fingers of the tal- ented owner buttonhole stitches the pieces in place. It is mending of a high art and a new art scale and certainly it is very good. A nouveau art patch to go on an old lace walst was made of antique lace— Just a little square snipped off the end of a flounce. This square was put over a big, yawning hole in an organdle shirt waist and was buttonhole stitched in place, Of course there was a plece upon the other side of the waist in a corre- sponding place, and, of course, a few oth- er snips of lace had to be stitched to the waist to make it look just right. But, when done, the waist was as good as new and all on account of a f&éw nouveau art patches. ~” How to Buy Bargains. But, in buying now, one must use a great deal of judgment if the waist 18 to be worn next winter. There are styles that will hold their own for a season to come, while others will go out in a month or so, and the woman who wants to iook nice next winter must get the sort of waist that will still be in style when the enow flies. Just now it is a fad to wear the washable waist all winter and woman must prepare to meet the fad part way. A waist that will look as up-to-date next Christmas as it does to-day is the walst of the plain front, called the French waist. In spite of the fact that the waists that button in the back are inconvenient, it is true that they will be worn, and one might as well get used to buttoning them now later, Occasionally, in a very well made waist, the fastenings are at the side, under the aim and over the shoulder; and, if the wuist be cut right, these fastenings are successful. But nine times out of ten the waist does not fasten as it should and there is a hideous gap on the shoulder seam, just where the fit ought to be per- fect. th wide front is very youthful and it is recommended to the stout woman and to the slender woman alike, for it singularly enough becomes both extremes of figure. In buying a ‘waist that opens in the back a woman is safe, for the style will hold for a season at least. The very new slesves are of the most exaggerated fullness at the back of the arm. Some of these sleeves are positively cap-like at the shoulder and’upper arm, suggesting the days of the very tight sleeve. Others are tucked around the up- per part, whiie others have wide bands of lace set In just beiow the shoulder, so as to form the uppers of the sleeves. These lace uppers are very nice and will look well later on when the walst is worn over a taffeta underwalist. From present indications one feels safe in making sleeves very baggy indeed, for some of the latest sleeves show a fullness at the under part of the arm which would fall nearly to the knees were it not for the stiffening of the cloth. The Newest Styles. The shoulders of shirt waists.seem to be climbing lower and lower down. Many of the new shoulder seams actually down on the tops of the arms, giving a very long shoulder line. This shoulder slope is very becoming to those who have wide shoulders, for there is a Gibsonlan effect which is graceful and becoming to the feminine figure. And here the wo- man with sloping shoulders comes out at ber very best. The cutting of the low seam is a dis- tinct art, and the amateur dressmaker must take lessons in it before trying her scissors upon a nice fabric, for with a slip of the scissors the waist will Dbe AT OMRIANMDAE AND - . L EAL S & R flhoula"r, while ecut very spofled. The low, must not bind the arm, nor must it wrinkle or draw In any way. The midsummer shirt walst shows other distinguishing features and one of these is seen in the new stock. While the shoulder seams are climbing downward and while the sleeve puffs are getting big- ger and bigger stocks are climbing up- ard. They grow taller and taller every day. Yet, while higher than they were, they are a great deal more comfortable, for théy are not so stiffly made and one can weaes them on a hot day without suf- fering the martyrdom of the middle agea. All'of‘the nicer shirt waists have stocks made to match the waist, and the stock corresponds to it not only in material, but in color and In design. Very frequently AN EMBROIRQERED LINEN Wi WALST TRI\MMED wiTT ™ LACE It is & rather remarkable thing, and Quite apropos the present styles, that fine Sewing is now coming to be ranked as an accomplishment. It is Aifty years since young girls were taught to sew, and more than fifty years since embroidery hem- stitching and all the dainty finishing were & part of the curriculum in the finishing achools. DR. CHARLES FLESH FOOD For the Form and Complexion. Has been success- fully used by lead- Ing actresses, sing- ers and women of yea Wherever applied it fs instantly absorbed through the pores of the skin, and its wonderful Butrition feeds the wasting tissues. As it by magle, one application often showing & Temark- able improvement. DR. CHARLES FLESH FOOD is positively the only preparation known to medical rcience that will_round out hollows in the neck and produce firm, heaithy fiesh on thin cheeks, arms and hands. FOR DEVELOPING TER ivn-. reasts shrunken ffom nursing % the O e indorsement of Dhysiciens: TWo boses are often suificient to make the bust Jarge and beautiful, SOLD BY THE EMPORIUM AND OTHER DEPARTMENT STORES AND DRUGGH 1a e, $1.00 & box, but o all whe this SPECIAL OFFER and we will send two (2 boxes, _A- sample ana F R BE o o yasa sot. lustrated. will be sent free to any lady sending 10 cents to pay for cost of mailing. Address DR. CHARLES 00, 19 Park Placa, Now Tork, ‘of lar