The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 2, 1903, Page 10

the Princess hap- y and s mak ks for.the neck s a pre orié that can be ment is = = some " mock jewe's w [ beads: “They mproved Princesse- gowns 2 hem w well wort sse can be made with or cket de up either as an X-ray ¥ matertal n or completely covered rojderies and trimmings, n be made with a sep- hanged =0 as to r of hes be n be ¢ 8. 1 in one piece, =0 in an unbroken line right vack of the neck to the tip of here is another way of making And this is the style which r a negligee. It can be cut so T s no break at the walst Jre. = mot fitted to the figure in any wa oes not set snugly over the hips, n es it hug the back. Its main point is that it is cut to fall from the back of the neck and it sweeps in folds right down to the floor and to the end of the skirt. The front is fitted, but the back is loose. This ie very becoming to certain very ehort women or to very lean ones. The advantages of ihe Princesse gown over other dresses ure many and decided. While it can never take the place’ 3f the ilar litt'e two-piece suit, and wnile 1t not pretend to’ be as popular ‘or as irt wa'st suit, still it has One of th nts ir neat appears rere is_something in- describably trim about the Princesse, with its smooth front and its snug hips. There is something very neat also about Iits waist line, or the line where the waist shouid be. Instead of gaping at the back of the belt, as so many gowns do, and Instead of disfiguring ‘the waist with bands and buckles, the Princesse chows a long, neat curve and the gown really makes a wo- man look taller, slimmer and more grace- ful in any wi But the Princesse is by no means a dress tn be worn for common. It is a dress-up gown and must be kept as such. Its lines, being very close to the figure, soon get out of shape, and unless careful- ly handled the front will wrinkle up over the slomach and the whole will have a wrinkled, mussy look, instead of a trim appearance, The newest and most popular style of Princesse for the street is made of navy blue face cloth, very light in weight. It §s cut with a long skirt, made very plain, but with a six-inch band of trimming around the foot. The trimming can be a coarse black lace let into the goods, ur it I STATZN T its favor is its can pe an.embroidery or a passementerio, or a band of tucking. L The train of this navy blue cloth Prin- cegse must be rather long, for it is a style of dress that demands a sweep skirt. It cannot be cut off at pedestrian length, for it is not bullt to look well that way. The upper part of the Princesse fits the hips as though it were molded to them. It lies flat in the front, in the regulation straight front manner, and it sets snugly over the bust. If you want to be very up to date with your navy blue Princesse you can wear a little Eton jacket with it and -you can make it of black lace, of the heaviest sort of novelty lace. It is better still to cut a jacket out of coarse black lace in- sertion, choosing the heavy Itallan sort, or the imitation Russlan laces. You can use a little Armenian embroidery around the edge If you so desire. There is another and a still nicer Kind of a Princesse and one which will be much worn this fall. It is the Princesse which is made of cream-colored cloth and which is fitted to the figure as though the wearer had grown into it. To make such a gown requires an experienced hand, and when once it is made it must be worn carefully, for a very little hard usage will get it out of shape. The trouble with the making of any Princesse gown is not so much in the DRZLT COT TO A5 TO THALL LY OPE LVE. THLEEP T TEE AECH trimming as in the fitting. If the hips are too tight, or if the bust is too snug, the Bown will draw and there will be ugly Wrinkles where there should be absolute Smoothness. The Princesse that fits as it should fit is the one that has broad, well-molded hips, without a suggestion of a ‘“draw,” or @ wrinkle. It should have a waist line that {s perfectly snug and that looks very slender compared to the hips. The bust should be very wide and the shoulders should have & Gibeontan plait epaulette of lace to widen them. The home dressmaker, in her effort to make the hipa look smooth, almost inva- riably fits them too tightly, so that the cloth wrinkles over the hips and across the front. When the wearer Is seated the gown is In a pitiful condition and when she rises the wrinkles still cling to the front. The correct fit is a gown so loose across the hips that they are given an added width, 12 anything, and so easy In the front and back that there is no possibil- ity of wrinkle. All the snugness comes in . the waist line, which- is fitted as tightly ‘as possible. The beginner near- ly always. falls In the making of a Princesse, for she cannot realize the importance tirat at- taches to a perfect . fit; and the result is one of those la- mentable: - gowns which one 8o often sees In "the street, those. Princesse dresses which ‘seem to bring the walst line up urider the chin and which swell the figure to twice its natural proportions. ' The necessity for the straight front is emphasized by the new style of dress. The plainer a gown is buiflt in the waist the great- er the necessity for the flatness. The new corsets are delghtfolly planned In this respect and it is a very neglectful woman ‘who cannot find one to fit her. Without squeezing the figure they manage to flatten it out and the result is that lovely long- straight fronted line which is the delight of the present day dress artists. As fall draws nigh interest gathers around the new fall jacket, for it will soon be time to put it on. There is some- thing about a fall coat which possesses a certain romance all its own. .With the * strlotly INE 5 MY TS JOo ar pory WITY DIECEN, ;a 12T voldening of the leaves, and the first hint of frost, the little coat becomes a neces- sity and ft Is part of Dgme Fashion's plan i dress that it should bear some re- Semblance to nature and nature’s tints. Russet colored lace can be obtained by the yard all ready to be made up into little lace jackets of the Kton - style, short enough to show the beit line a either open in the front or in -the back Many of the newest of these little gan ments open down the back, where they are fastened invisibly, giving the appear- ance of .a-dress waist.. Laces come in all the fall colors, for the dyed lace is to be the thing. You can get lace the color of an autumn leaf, no the autumn leaf. Whils a lace jacket iz not & warm arti cle of dress, the new lace jackets are made much heavier by . their lnings, which are of taffeta and by crepe de chine and changeable lace jackets are lined, if only wi fon, for they do not hold their less protected in this way. Laces -generally are treated of chiffon and you see broad lined with chiffon. and - set. around foot of dress skirts, or bands strengthened with chiffon apd waist trimmings. When the lace tears, or shows 34 %ag ¢ b 1 ! gffii‘f - 2 B ] g 3 H o 3 " ° 8 3 B & 13 the lace is turned and a new lning is set underneath. In this manner.the life of & lace flounce is indafinitely prolonged. custom ai nice seashore places and moun- tain resorts for the women. to .reserve a dress or two until- late In.the seasom to be brought out fresh, just when avery. one else is wearing gowns that arg faded from wear all the seasgn. Recent gowns worn at Newvort show the most beautiful little’ shoulller. capes, cut as ‘deep as the shoulders, with long, wide stoles that come bélow .the Dbelt. These stoles.are embroldered and, Instéad of hanging straight, some -of them' are turned back and thrown- over.the sholl- dess. Again’ there .are- the ' Noffolk - jacRets; which are made of. taffeta. They afe.not Nozfolks, - for they ‘ard lemnger in the front than i d* the’ box plaits are sti but the. belt, wh pings of silk, is down very low in Miss Daisy Le: comirig gown “of ‘gl shade ‘of brown. "It 1s trimmed as to’ the skirt box plaits, two ia front back. They are stitched fla which 1s of n length. Miss Leiter's taffeta coat 48 & three- quarter length and is fitted In the back, but is-loose in the fromt It 1s. double- breasted and Is fastened with cords and buttons. A black patent leather balt v worn with it. When thrown ppen it re- s a very pretty facing in white and blue canvas. - It is certain that one of the sénsations of the year will be sprung when the fall coats are displayed, for they will be dis- tinctly different from the coats.of-a year ago. The long coat was certainly an innova- tion,-and such a pppular one that if has grown in grace from year te year, u 1 now it s a nmecessity with young-and old: with those. who dress a great and those who do not dress at all. It must be admitted- that the ‘coats of autumn threaten to be rasher loose. -but one is becomimg accustomed to th® icose flowing lines. They say that the woman who'is going to wear a Princesse gown must be a wo- man who is very partial to the wearing of bones that are mot her own. absolutely:. un- w..ich’ has four and ‘two in the the skirt,