The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 5, 1903, Page 10

THE SUNDAY CALL. /T |OPDgOb NtVI€ Belles Must Wear Burnt tons and Brilliant While Staid Ma- s in Pink Instead of Debutantes Venture Hosiery of Rainbow Fad for Dutch Styles rreva..: % here Are Round Dutch Necks Upon Gowns of Dutch Blue. London season is on the e world looks wit ss the seas to where rep- resents es of th wor bow d n ball and 8 he early Fashion's devotees to see what is new wives marikat James drawing-r AA Holland Season the standard tones and leasts expect it a briznt shade s are pretty and one can cling to them and find them good A New Belt Is Sern A new belt is seen this s nee t be a millionaire’'s wif “_ It is made with two poir Pron e other in the b ? nt is laid flat against the w - t downward. It lies v t ite mccentuates the flat v is the style. The back poir d makes the back of the looks upward waist seem fashionable, flat and curved If the woman who is hopelessiy short- walsted will make one of these belts. with the front pointing downward and the back pointing upward, and if she will it out of material to match her he will find that she has very pus great proved her figure. A ceable feature of the London sea- #on is the use of the transparent ma- terials; not necessarily the thinner ones, but the heavier sort. There are beautiful crashes that show the lining beneath and there are canvases which are gelightful in their cool suggestions In the thinner goods there are new grenadines and vell- ings thet are very becoming and inex- ensive, and gquite as durable as could expected. The fact that the crashes and the can- - come in all colors and that they oan be made up over lawn linings instead of linings of silk is in their favor, for the woman of average means can invest in that was beautifully simnle »f cement gray trimmed with The taffeta was used in pings to give the tallored drop skirt was the new. gh Japanese silk, which is said to wear forever, but which is still such a novelty tha ife has scarcely been fully test- it belng:light and pretty, it has on n fancy’s eye. All the World Wears Pink. seems to be taking the place of considerable extent and very rons who have worn (he ne have slipped into pink - cut realizing it, while the debutantes ve gloried in it. Pink canvas makes a rice dress for morning or afternoon nk is a fabric that is much The utllity of pink as a general color has been questioned vy declaring that it is nefther dursble becoming. But s t as durable as gray? Will a pearl gray canvas afternoon dre:s wear longer 1 one of pink? And if for sum wear, will pink not be as pretty as gr is a serles « questi which modistes are putting to th patrons A pretty Innovation much noticed in London is found in the method of using e flounce. The skirt flounce has to a degree, and while most skirts ara ed, they are treated quite differ- from before he deep luce flounce is given a touch of great elegance by putting it on in lttie ps. The flounce should dip here and t ntervals, ‘each dip mak- vour lace, se mesh is better as the top keeps ims a summer gown is ner. But In this wn witl v the flouncy es, and the flounce is then sewed One Nice Silk Petticoat. e summer worm i endeavor to skirt with t e foot, she m skirt suffi- er forth in c f is not lifted nd billows as it will. The fas e petticoat silhouette is a fea tur ss not to be neglected by any » an eye to her good looks urprising thing to note, yet a at stockings are growing more vid, and this upon women who edded to black since black THE ) rrie STRAILNT 14oMDON IN THIS TRAIN THE Y AVERICAN GIRL _7'_1:'\:5 HER Bow QU% %MND&R; came In vogue, and who before that day wore white. Black stockings of & changeable nature, showing red in certain lights precisely as some black silks show shot-red effects,are worn In the street by women of unqu tioned taste. And again, stockings that are blue when you look across them and stockings that are pink and violet and all colors are worn. These are in good taste and will be seen this summer every- where. A street dress worn by one of the ladies of Embassador Choate's family was bullt in old-fashioned seal-brown foulard with figures in a deeper brown and white. The beauty of the gown was its trimming, which was composed of lace of the heavy order. The lace which, by the way, was coarse and filled with figures, was trim- med with button molds which were work- ed with silk. These dotted it here and there and formed a border along the up- per .. The use of the button mold as a trim- ming is everywhere observable. The molds are worked {n silk and various sizes are cess of Pless, who does everything in a2 way that is ultra, wears 2 dr of black and white striped summer silk. The skirt is made very tight-fitting right down to the knees, and the stripes run up and down. This upper part of the skirt Is tucked also, and the tucks are so ar- ranged that only the dark stripes are visible with occasional flashes of the white. Then comes the great foot flounce which in this case s a veritable flounce, 'knee deep in front and a great deal deeper in the back. It is made of the striped black and white silk and is trimmed along the top with bands of black silk ribbon, and The waist—and here the daint! the French modiste is visible of pin tucking, pointing toward th with the tucks overlaid with wh with lovely trimmings introduced i lace. There are lace roses with tin black valvet centers and there are ton molds covered alternately with black silk and with whiteé; and there are white slik rings and blaek silk ones. Pretty American Gowns. But, take it all iz all, the French modistes do not excel the American wom- en; and, for that matter, many will tell you that the foreign styles are not as good. For one thing, they are not as ao- curate. The American modistes have & way of making a gown that is pronounced by the @ress artists “faithful.” They follow one motif throughout; and where thers are pintucked skirts there is & pin tucking oa the walst; and, where the skirt yoke separate fitted yoke, one can look for the waist with fitted yoke with & finish almost precisely like that of the skirt And se the American gown has its individuality and certainly its virtues. And there is another thing about the American gown that is in its favor and this is its pliabllity, if one can se style it The American gown can be mads up ia cheap China silk as well as in ex; flowered brocade and it will look well ia either case, for its lines are ¥o good. So, in reading the styles, the woman of small purse need not lose heart, for she will at once see how shis can take her own material and make it up alcely upon the same lines as those of the more ex- pensive goods; and with results that are almost as good. The fancy for artificial flowers is grewe ing and it is & very smart thing to weas aritficial flowers boldly upén the corsage. The flowers are frankly artificial and are made of ribbon turned into a fat rose, o of chiffon laid delicately in petals. Wan leaves surround the ribbon rese and for & stem there are a dosen tiny strips of ribbon, an eighth of an inch wide, each one with & knot tied In the end as & fin. ish. Not only In the corsage are these roses worn, but in the hair, and very lovely they look with their lustrous satin pet The wearing of the artificial Sowsa is & fad, but a very pretty one. A Cup Race Season. It s to be a season of dress for the eup. h and the season will the high seas. American red, everywhere, and tumes are cately pretty the yac how easy it Is to 1 The slender woman is but it is no longer an a ness that Is desired. A woman must & decided shape, and this must be played in curves. The woman with h is coming back agaln, though not woman with an with the full bust is also com! though the waist must be sm straight front is always in, but thers are now several styles of straight front, and it 1a possible to be straight down the front llne, though full on the hips and in the bust Gowns are made to accentuafe the back curve, and the line from the neck down to the walst and from the walist on down to the end of the train is curved, sinu- ous, graceful and lovely. A dress made for a woman who knows how to dress is in one of the thin fig- ured summer stuffs and its price per yard is In the fsw cents. But its style s love- ly. Beginning with the walst, which is & shirt waist, there is a wide; unbroken expanse, which is covered with white cot= ton embroidery stitches. Thers is no de slgn except a sprawling, conventional one. and the whole front is trimmed in this manner. The walst, instead of being shir- red to the band in fromt, Is lald in little plaits pointing each way from the middle of the front. The skirt s cut so that it gradually widens toward the bottom and the from$ is covered with an embroidered panel, which s narrow at the top near the belt lne, but widens considerably toward the floor. Thers is no other trimming upon the gown, unless one would name the wide sash ends, embroidered, and let hang down the back. Gowns of the season, while not richly expensive, are so delicately made and se covered with handwork that they are eas- {ly ruined, and it is necessary therefore for the careful owner to possess & num- ber of boxes, each une dedicated to one complete costume, whether it be a linem E hamrock green and te and blus wave ready yach A SHIRT wausy SWTOF DARX ®zp and as decorations for the acroll work. Larger ones are placed along the edge, and If the lace be used as a flounce it is looped by means of the molds. How to Treat Lace ‘Worked silk rings are also profusely displayed in the middle of the lace work, and as these can be bought by the dozen ail ready to be used as a trimming, the -labor of the seamstress is spared not a little. And there is still another way to use lace, or, as our grandmothers would have declared, to abuse It, and that is by tak- ing the middle or heart out of each lace rcse. In its place is put a tiny speck of black velvet. This gives depth to the rose and makes it very pretty to look upon. The black velvet bits might be placed up- on the laceand appliqued there without mutilating it, but Dame fashion declares that the precious stuff must be cut and the black velvet set underneath in.the most ruinous manner detrimental to the future of the lace. WALKING <OAT. used. When they are completed they are The stripe is a fashionable ene or both without spending too much. ol » et e thing at along the "".' edge with bahds of the &ress embdroidered I cotton placed in the lace as centers to the roses home and abroad. The beaytiful Prin- same much nicer .. )