The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 4, 1903, Page 15

ncess Dresses Woman Died of aking Tk —The 1 See Great a in the Things in Lace Promised t he Lace Makers— Whitney Layette. e ’ s . s e still the y were softly, that by the Czar, ssador as to his cheerful as thought, the Czar- both des, noth- Czarina as a little gown which was Queer sma cen trees a i8 of ever seriy » in the de- sig gown was hite one, lined v v 4 worn with white panne be sck. Pearls were the gems and a white feathers was carried to & pea The whole was very rich nly more appropriate for so0 august a person- age as the wife of an Embassador. and certs nothing could have been The Czarina dresses mostly in black § s2id to be much of the time in tears. Nevertheless, her condition has beer exaggerated and she is merely suf- fering from extreme nervousness, such as oft ks people of any station. A gown, very charming, worn by Mrs. Tower, has a vest of Renaissance lace, under which there is lajd a lining of burnt lemon colored panne velvet. There is a square yoke that is treated in the same and A STUDY IN GREY VEILING AND WHITE LZACE. at the woman became ner s task. T inches long and from a « wide at the waist line they had widened to th ams ple adual fuli width t the end of the train. More 1 to be put together so care- tin ver they hs lly as to look like one plece of goods. way Mrs. Vanderbilt was made to & very tall. Working too late the woman became depressed nd at midnight took poison 1n despair at the thought of beginning again next d So 1 ate are many of the gowns that more than one woman despairs over them Not only are they trimmed they are embroidered as well. But there is this comfort, t plainness can be selected, if preferred, and one cun always take materials easy to sew. Satin is difficult, but cashmere is easy, and it d with fringe, or frogs, croch oks very nice In the stuffs that are simple to make up ay be mentioned the rough cloths. These asily fitted and they can be made to olutely cling to the figure. They do y and, after being worn, they become shaped to the figure and really look better than at first. It is economy in buying camel's hair and the hairy zlbelines, as well as in buying the rough cheviots and the coarse, rough serges, to get expensive goods, for they adapt themselves better to the fig- ure, whereas the cheaper ones are apt to get out of shape. A Holiday Bargain. It is a very poticeable fact this year that the goods are of better quality for the money than ever before. They do not pull obit or fray nor do they *give” at the seams nor lose their shave. The colors are fast and non-fadable and they do mot seem to wear smooth’ in spots, as was the formier habit of shaggy goods. For this one can only thank the manu- that are ab: not wrinkle ea rs, whose efforts to prov d with good goods are r a hea ; 2 silk is T are the Persian and which can be rial, whick Lo carry, orative, thus ¥ v the weigh he mat v who is still ac- one of the most taste- women, wears a rough sh of red in it and 1 ground of black, h It is 1ou see ttie blue with that kind of afl embroid- s of fagot lk and of silk wheels, silver quarters and the belt, the also head the flounce. to the plain stitched the fancy fagot and zigzag trim- ming. This fagot stitching is easy to man- and it makes a nice contrast to the bamd and the cloth band with which »dd in that it cc cotton and big as big as waist nirast S0 many gowns are decorated this year. A New Year Gown. If you are blessed with an old ecioth gown, taiiored, and of the vintage of last year, you can get it out and quite mod- ernize it by trimming it with wheéis of silk put on around the cuffs and yoke.® If you care to sprinkle the whole gown with French knots of varying size you can do Or you can lozenge it with cloth loz- ad spots and make the The lozenge treatment |s new, but it is'still the vogue and is de new by pla ng a button in the cen- ter of the lozen One of the Cabinet ladies had an old gown remodeled for a Christmas dinner ess. The affalr was a mid-afternoon one, when evening dress would have been inappropriate. The gown was once a navy brown cash- mere, not in the least poetic and made less so now by faded spots, and by the sad look which brown gets after the wind has played over it for a season. With the fertility of recourse which only a Cabinet woman can know she took it and placed a crocheted ornament upon one side of the skirt to make a long and remarkably graceful panel. Then she set a crocheted silk band around the skirt at the head of the foot flare or flounce. Her bodice, which is somewhat on the shirt waist variety, has a double row of enges to cover gown 100k new. not very large buttons set down the front and ' the Leautifully trimmed panel covers the utility buttons or the buttons that do the work of fastening the waist on the figure. The stock and the belt were in Renais- THE EfUNDAY CALL sance, ns is 2 deep saller collar cut in Louis XI1I shupe, very deep and coming almost to the beit in The very long deep seems to strenglhen in are the Tudur col collars, but the lur de and so arranged that they 2 around the shoulders and ali the way down the front Collars a this description ceriainly retrim old waist admirably Like Mrs. Gould’s Gown. There lives no woman without plenty of old clothes, however skimp she may be upon new ones; gnd for the woman with 2 grand asscrtment of the former there may be quoted a gown which was made for Mrs, George Gould and which did not suit. It was in black, a handsome black cloth, tallored to the point of skin tight- ness and fitted to the back, the hips, the front and the whole figure except for the flare around the it The waist was on the French blouse order with wide sleeves coming in to a tight cuff. There was no trimming, but only the luster which comes of using the best of materials and of meking them well. But the gown did not sult, and so the modiste, with the patience of her kind, set to work to improve it. Getting a quantity of Japanese inser- tion, fine, very fine silky and beautifully finished, she set a strip of it down the back of the sleeve. The strip reached from the shoulder right down to the cuff. Then she put a strip around the hand to form the cuff itself. Two strips down each side of the front feli from the shoulder seams and another strip made the belt, which was a dip. The skirt had two rows of this Japan- ese trimming, one row at the head of the flounce or undulating foot of the skirt, and another row just above the first one. Both were slightly ralsed at the back and dipped in the front to give that long front look without which no woman can be happy these days. “The wkirt was of that sweep length which is necssary for every modish gown and the back Is quite trained. This gown offers many a suggestion for the woman ‘who is making over an old dress, for it really has points of interest that could be adapied all along the dress line to the making over of the old into the new. Mrs. Secretary Hay Is quite gorgeous this winter in the most elaborate black ever made for the capital. One knows how to begin to describe pearance was that of a mass ses upon a semi-skirt of black net. The underskirt was black chif- fon with a box-pleated flounce of chiffon and’ with lace looped at the head of the chiffon flounice. Under it all there was a duil silk lining, for the’ gown is a Semi- mourring one. In the Hay Family. Mrs. Hay's daughters are dressing very beautifully in their trousseau gowns, for, in spite of the fact that they married into millforaireville, they took along with them gowns fit for princesses. Mrs. Payne Whitney, on her last ap- pearanee, wore a heliotrope creation, which is exactly Parisian In style. The whole gown is bullt of heliotrope velling with the wide undulation around the foot. The hem of the gown is trimmed with dia- monds of purple panne with ribbon put on around the diamonds. The rows of purple panne diamonds go up the front with a narrow ribbon outlining each diamond. Large white panne squares are set around the top of the undulating flounce. The waist has revers trimmed with purple dia- mouds and the cuffs are trimmed in the same manvner. Then comes an elaborate arrangement of folds, which is impossible to describe. And, by the way,. there is an exquisite layette ordered for January. In this lay- ette there are several novel features in- troduced. of several sets of tiny clothes, all done in colors. Pale blue, baby pink, the faintest of corn color and the most delicate green lawns and linens are made tp with lace that rivals a web. With each little set there goes a morning robe for the mother to match the tipy set of baby dresses. They say that there is nothing new un- der the sun, but merely that old saying can be put away among the things that gow ce y no longer stand as true. One noveity is for the making of little coats out of Per- slan silks, and lining them with softest wool. The Persian silks, in the pastel col- ors, with cream and green and blue all mingled orientally, are more than lovely with their padded linings and their heavy cuffs and collars. It is rather difficult to find a gown that is all of one color. The tendency s toward a combination and a variety— toward what is known as a “scheme in colo) ere must be some plan, with a foundation of one color, and many trimmings of other shades laid over the foundation. A New Year Fancy. There is a perfect craze for putting one trimming over the top of another. Silk patches are laid upon cloth, figured gauze is laid over the silk, and a little lace medallion ornaments the gauze, while on top of the whole there Is sewed a tiny bead or the smallest of buttons. You are safe, if you want to go into the business of getting up such a trim- ming, in applying lace to anything you may have and In slipping a bit of col- ored silk underneath the lace. That Is the law, something lald underneath and something laid on top. So shall you achieve a success in dress. How pice it is to hail the new clothes that are now being spread out upon the counters and what qtantities of them there are from which to choose! The vel- veteens come In all welghts, and make idoal walking suits, and the zibelines now come in boardifke weights, as well as in lighter weaves. In the novelties one can look along the One of these is the providing “theviot and tweed counters and note the way In which little silk figures and stlk stripes are creeping into even thess pro- saic goods. The brocaded effects are ught and found, and one is beco: anxious to know what, will be done with all perfectly plain materials. There is a tendency toward the fleck, the dot, the spot and toward the uneven figures, and it looks as though by spring there would be a return to the HANDSOMELY ZEMBROIDEXED THREE RLQUARTER . 15 check and the plaid and to all the lttle novelties which were once so pronounced in dress goods. Even the shirt walsts begin to show the check again, and very much like novelties they look with their trimmings, their folds and their little pleated treat- her ladyship is Both came from d for once Lady Curzom forgot derers of Delhi.in her eager- re a gown which would out- iine her previous costumes. The Durban Gowns. way, it is unauthoritatively y Curzon is making every Mrs. Leiter, is with le expenditures. red that Mrs. Leiter, no he expense, wishes iress becoming her rank, gown, s trimmed with great flowers, ve much llke country popples. y are made of d of chiffon, with outside leaves of velvet. They are i to the skirt and’ are connected a wandering chain of black chenille. bodice is In the plain panne, with a g of black chiffon around the neck. e flower rests upon the left side ower is worn in the halr. w The ruch what marveious oaks do little acorns gro to what extremes of style do 1 beginnings lead. The sleeves, which begin with a flare around the hand, now fall In great and magnifi- cent sweep to the kifees. An evening gown wor! Pauline Astor was all in white nt »wadays may mean a great deal, and this gown was charm- frg. It was worn at a small but very elegant dinner for Miss Astor. They combine all different shades of white until y fay that thers were all colors in Butter color, tan color, a ripe cream and the rather ghastly oyster white are all brought together in one white gow The novel feat g-Wn was s re in Miss Astor's white in the sleeve, which was very wide, quite a Japanese sleeve. It Was in lace 1 was ed with chiffon, as most lace sieeves are. Them there came a pufliing « k to look like an un- dersleeve. And over this there were em- plecements of lace and, under the lace there were lald bits of oyster gray. velvet and over the whole there was a fall of fringe: The sleeve kad a great deal more than this, but the eye could not. catch ft. The general style, though, serves a text for the woman who Is getting up a whiet sleeve as a finish to an elegant white gown. The new year styles have cast thelr shadows befors them and the closing month of 1903, was made brilliant by the Orfental stuffs and the gold which. though plentitul, have only just begun to appéar upon the horizon. Later they will burst forth in much splendor.