The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 28, 1902, Page 7

THE EUNDAN CALL, The Beveral Stages of a Formal and Ceremonious Af- fair, With Many Mystic Rites and Ocecult Ordinances—The Beauty BSeeker Must Disre- gard the Lapse of Time. & SRR SSSESEREY St 3 (Copyright, 1902, by the 8. 8. McClure Co.) HEN Diana makes her evening tollet it is & procession—a graduel passing from one stage to another. That the elaborate ceremontal may be an e hausting one; it s preceded by & cup chocolate. This is a hint she takes fr Ter French maid, who tells her, “in my ry, madame takes her cup of choco- 4 then bloom- : the beverage, taken venating i bloom which e worn and weary an e there can be no hard and down. It may not be best to ght cap” every evening, and cer- t f one is gaining flesh too rapidiy chooolate is best left alone and a cup of flion substituted. Milk, heated to g point but not bolied, is also nourishing and stimulating; nothing in- deed rests and soothes one’'s weary nerves like & cup of hot milk. With garments loosened, hair let down and every muscle relaxe at her #ips fresh Jife and vigor from & and thi f her tri- porcela he events of the in the soclal world, perhaps, and e morrow. cannot be e to others, ng and waist lines reiaxed, es & quarter of an hour at least bbells, In- ded Bt she goes in for arm culfiva- Or the gir f Lne be reduced, or her waist shaped cal proportions. g conscientiou 'wex'wrvne(‘ her y by her figure, sb serself be fore her mirror to give her hair its due, share of attention. Her maid always brushes and sses her hair in the morn- g but, at night, as & rule, she prefers to be alons and attend to her own toilet. Perhaps she has a letter to read—not an every-duy letter, but a missive from an absent eavalier, or she would pen an ef- fusion herself, in which case the roum hips must into &y avi w08t efficlent and expensive of ferable to her company. Hair does not get half the attention r Forty minutes at least every be devoted to its care. alive with color is the e hair, tress by tress, h by inch, should be . the fingers slightly on beg g at the forehead, then the whole scalp with a light movement and firm pressure. Before commeneing the operation the roots of the hair, but not the hair itself, are thoroughly wet with either water or a lotion. After the manipulation the combed with the coarsest possible ; combing starts, not at the head, at the ends of the hair. In other words, it is combed upward to avold mbing removes dust from the halr and gives free ventilation. The brush is ext used; each strand is brushed up, down, right, left and in semieircles from ne forehesd to the center of the head: n from the nape ef the neck upward the same point. By this time the 4 should be In & glow. The circulation cen stimulated, and If the manipula- f the scalp has been thorough each 1 yessel is aroused to renewed actlon. alr is fed only when there is a flow »0d to the hair follicles. 2ot umtll the halir shines like satin is it properly 'groomed. It is then braided & la Marguerite, for if the bair hangs loose all might It is very apt to get broken and tangled, THE RROVOUS EVENING TOILET MRY 38 PRECEDED By RQor oF <HocoL.RTE , If the hair is worn parted it is care- fully combed out every night and parted in a different place, that it may not be- come too broad. Of course, milady knows enough to et down when performing most of the rites of the tollet, for by so doing she con- serves her strength and preserves her nerves. At least fifteen minutes are de- voted to the teeth, and for this ceremony she also seats herself at her ease. If very weary or troubled with insomnia she takes an alcohol footbath, or & quart or 8o of some aromatic toilet water is added to & warm footbath. This is rest- ful and refreshing. Last of all the face and hands are washed in water softened with a little glycerin and rose water. The face is never rubbed dry; it is gently patted with the softest linen towels. Perhaps a tiny line appears on the face. She doesn’t call it a “‘wrinkle,” because she has not yet reached her first score. Lines ere caused by a thousand and one things besides age; wrinkling one’s fore- head, for example, when weighing the pros and cons of some question with halt @ dozen sides to It. The next new dress— siail it be a heaven's own blue or an adorable shade of green? Jack or Harry. Bhall she smile upon one and drive the other from her by a frown. These momentous questions, which arise before one is twenty, before one is six- teen, perhaps, are liable to leave faint traces, at least, upon the brow, and only yleld to cold cream and friction. So hope- lessly mixed up are romance and prose in litel The lines in the forehead, “lines of thought,” she calls them, are coaxed away by rubbing from the Iines to above the ears and from the center to either side; an emollient is used; whatever Is left on the face ie carefully taken off with a plece of cotton batting. Beauty's hand requires very special care, it it would retain its power to charm. After washing the hands with soap and warm water, they are again washed with tmeal and warm water; the oatmeal is ubled on the hands, the friction removes every particle of dust which would roughen the skin, and the oil in the meal is softened. The next process in hand cul- tute {8 to manipulate each hand, using a good cold cream, which is rubbed into each joint to promote flexibility and firm- ness. If fingers are not as tapering as fashion requires, frequent pinching of the ends does a great deal toward making them tapering. To prevent roughness and redness of the hands, due to winter's chilling blasts, violet cream should be used. This is made by melting over a slow fire one ounce of ‘white wax and one-half ounce of parafiin; ‘when melted three ounces of oil of sweet almonds are added and then the whole is stirred until cold; when nearly cold add twenty drops of extract of violet. Rough hands can be made fine, soft and beautiful by frequent appiications of this violet cream. Or almond ofl alone iz beneficlal. If & ‘When Diana is composing herself for slumber she places her hands by her sides, lightly closed. The last stage of the toflet has been reached. The time consumed has been about 100 minutes, divided something as ing hair, 40 minutes; brushing gteeth, 15 minutes; foot bath, 20 minutes;"washing faos and hands, § minutes; cultivating the hands, 20 minutes; total, 125 minutes, five minutes seem a long toflet. But what~ is worth doing at all is worth doing well, {8 it not? However, it is not possible to take such things lelsurely; five minutes must be taken off here and ten minutes thers, until the evening tollet is made Time however, i net made mxy-amth-mmm gard the lapse of time, even length of T @ays, In making herself so charming, %0 for flmm&tho Whe looks upon her loveliness Dok Wire1y %o his Bearts disasten @ e O WHIST FOR THE AMATEUR. BY MRS. B P. SCHELL HE reverse discard is most gener- ally used in all Eastern clubs, and is nothing more nor less than the “Dryson discard,” but how few if any of the Pacific Coast players are using it and how many know what the *“Dryson discard” is? The reverse discard to many of us has meant commencing of suit after trumps have been located, while in Eastern clubs It has the reverse signi- fication, and says, do not lead this suit. Upon this subject a very able discourse was delivercd by O. H. Briggs before the Minneapolis Whist Club. It contained many suggestions worthy of thoughtful consideration, and I will quote that which touches upon the reverse discard. “The reverse discard, made or started by . discarding after the strength In trumps has been located, shows that the suit is the opposite of what it would be taken for but for such echo; that is, if made upon a showing that trump strength is with opponents, that it is your weak suit; otherwise that it is ng suit. I cannot now think of cir 5 dér which it could be made before trumps had been led and the person making it hada shown his holding in trumps. It is essentially an echo foilowing the location of trump strength by the ac trumps. An echo made under the stances described for the rever but made after the person ma conclusively showp another strong suit, indicates comm su, ‘o which tLa echo is mad made arter trumps have been located or extracted means change suits, if made in partner's sult, and command of sult if made in opponents’ suit.” A large number of our best players fol- low a system of discard without regard to trump - strength being declared by either side. A discard early In the hand as a general thing says to your partner “Do not lead me this suit.”” In connection with this system it was found that occa- slens would arise when the player was forced, where opponents led trumps, to discard from his strongest suit or the one which he would prefer to have led by partner. To meet this situation the “re- verse discard,” as it is termed, is used. This consists in signaling in the discard, playing first a higher then a lower card of the strong suit. Pften it is not possi- ble to complete the play, but by playing s high a card as it is safe to spare part- per is led to infer that the discard car- ries the ‘reverse” meaning and says, “Lead this suit.” To {llustrate, first, the discard which says, “Do not lead this suit”: v Suppose adversary on one’s right leads the queen of clubs, followed by the king, and adversary on the left signals for trumps. In response the of trumps (hearts) s led, followed by a low trump, One’s partneér renoinces on the second round of hearts, discarding the four of dlamonds—it is safe to presume that his suit is spades. He mmay hold good strength {n dlamornids, and would have no objection to &.dlamond lead coming from his opponent on the left, but one reads, “I do not wish to have you (partner) lead dlamonds.” The low value of the card thus 4 ‘warrants the assump- tion that no Second—The ‘‘reverse’ discard which for various Peasons ls often & necessary expedient, Buppose oppoment on one's right opens trumps, spades, indicating left wins the third round, partner in turn discarding the seven of clubs. Sald opponent then leads the six of hearts, partner fol with a low card, third hand plays ten and one wins the ace, ‘What shall the lead be, providing no great strength i held In nmeither elubs nor dlamonds? It does not require any un- usual amount of skill in reading the cards to declds -.th the first point influencing spare, even if he is not starting & “re- verse,” it is safe to lead & supporting club, as he must hold considerable strength in that suit to put away one as high as the seven In the face of opponent's declaration of trump . strength. He _certainly held no low diamond with which he could part. The inference is that he ‘was retaining protection for an honer In both diamonds and hearts, and Is saying by his discard: “lead clubs.” We find he has remaining—diamonds, ace and five; hearts, king and one small; clubs, king, queen, ten, six and four. He could mot scard one of the guards to the king of hearts, with the lead coming from opponent on his right; he did not wish to blank the ace of diamonds, and g0 to the fourth trick he played the high- est club he could spare, starting & “re= verse discard. There are one or two examples of this play which m: be used in particdlar cases to carry still more definite Informas tion, such as: he discard of an ace to show complete control of the suit. The discard of a king early In the hand, em adversaries’ trump lead, declaring every- thing of value but the ace. reverse” order two small on partner’s lead of ace » win the third round. ciple a player can de- at the suft which his be his best is of mo , even If two win. response to implied alscard & value as a ning cards a mm. Suppese A’ Dest sult (o9 S by discard) consists of ‘tem and three small diamonds; B, hol the only trump, leads the ace of dlamonds, followed by king: A refuses to eche, B teads that A does not hold the queen and that A Is warning him to do the best he can with his own suit before his trump is forced out. When you are in @oubt whether or not your partner is starting a ‘reverse” discard, you should open the suit in which you are best pro- tected, paying no heed to partner's first discard. You must remember that the comples tion of a ‘“reverse” to declare strength in a plain suit must never be made when thers Is any danger such play will tend to cause confusion in partner’s mind as to number of trumps beld. This hand affords ar i'lustration of the “reverse discard.” Seven of hearts trump; East to lead Tk. N. 8 W, 1l 3 s L s s b “Xs 3 Js *6h s 4. 84 Xa a 5. *Qh e an 6 3d *Qa 4 7. Th 9 zg 8. *h % 9. Qo 89 o 10. *Ah L) n . % Jo o 13 sh *Kh 104 s 3 20 *3a Ko Yo East and West, 8; North and South, & Trick 1—With five trumps and an ace for re-entry in hand, the low opening would likely have been better, but. the result is not affected by the lead. Trick 3—West can read one sdversary void, while the other must hold queen or jack. He deems it best to go on and clear the sult rather than open one of his long holdings haphazard. Trick ¢—North commences a trump sig~ nal, which !s justified by his strength, te= gether with So s lead. Trick 5—East broaches trumpe for the protection of the long spades. South has shown his strongest suit, and now starts 8 “reverse discard” to indicate strength in clubs. If the development renders it @esirable, the signal can be masked. Trick 8—The completion of North's trump call at trick 6 deters East from prosecuting the tr ) extraction; instead he plays to force North. South completes the discard to show strength. Trick 9—North leads to his partner’s de= clared gtrength in clubs. Trick 10—West's return of the trump through North is good play in view of the previous force on the latter's hand. North can sum up the situation. There is noth- ing to play for but the remote chance of East making an error.