The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 28, 1902, Page 15

THE FUNDAY CALL. — - ONDON, Paris and New York modistes are discussing the re- vival of the puffed sleeve as shown by Mrs. Langtry at a dinner the other evening. The Ldly’s gown was in white with a ped gkirt end a basque. The basque wus cut pointed, front and back, in two tiny dips that came below the waist. The sleeves were gathered in at the shoulder in guch & manner as to make them very bouffant. They were again gathered at the elbow and were confined there by & cuff or band of velvet. This style takes one back to the fash- fons of 1892 the World’s Fair year, when the big sleeve was literally at its _ height and et its fullness. Mrs. Langtry's recent sleeve is not crinolined, but that is only a minor point, after all, as the ma- stff as to keep its shape perfectly. How welcome these tidings will be for the woman who has kept her old wajts and Jackets safely put the camphor trunk! ¢ Tirst time the Jer- ) was proGuced at the first Barrie's new play, when t of she swept into the stalis of the Duke of York's Theater in a gown 4 ald green panne. The full and round and laid in lite plaits or gathers. The sleeves were puffed and caught into a cuff above the elbow. The cuffs were made of lace, and that th: le is a.most an exact re- production of the one of ten years or less ago all will agree. Mrs. Potter in Flame Red. the On James of same occasion Mrs. wn Potter wore a gown flame red crepe with puffed t sleeves, though in her case the D! € less bouffant than those ) s. I who went to the extreme strle at once. Mrs.‘Pot.er wore her hair low with a wide winged bird at the nape of her neck, with wings stretched to cover the coil, while Mrs. Langtry coiled her hair low and wore a wide black satin bow at the base. The return to the puffed sleeve is not unexpected, for the indica- tions have been toward it for some time. The fact that the sleeves were baggy below the el- bow has argued that it would be only a question of a short time before they would bag above the elbw, and then that the inevitable crinoline would come, There is just a possibility that the crinoline skirt may return with the puffed sleeve, and if It does it would be a skirt of very large proporticns and one that is worn semi-short also. Such vie would be almost complete opposition to the siyle of skirt of the present day, which is clinging and fitted very. closely. Yet if you will take the trouble to examine tke styles in all thelr wide range you will observe that there are round skirts to be found, and figured skirts at that, to make the skirt look rounder. Miss Maude Lorillard, who be- came Mrs. Cecil Baring in Lon- don last month, wore all summer the prettiest of whitc dress skirts, made with many black and white figures in the pattern and many ruffles upon the skirt. The ruffles were of the round .and round order, and the skirts were laid in box plaits around the belt. This style is in great contrast to the fitted skirt. As Mrs. Baring the bride she is wearing some very charming gowns, not the least beautiful of which is a gown in black net with high white scrolls in satin set be- neath in such a manner that the scrolis show through. The gown is tight enough to reveal the slen- der figure of the wearer. Mrs. Baring’s Trousseau. Mrs. Baring was one of the first women to introduce the pioture hat in New York. It was she who brought out the Gainsborough and wore it to public places, such as the horse ehow and the plcture exhibitions. She made ft not a dress hat, but one for nice occa- sions, and soon it became o thor- oughly popularized as to be a most useful adjunct to a woman's dress. And now Mrs. Baring, whose head is of the small, slender type, is wearing the big black hat with its rim of lace. The hat is flat on top with the top composed entirely of black roses. At the back there is e scarf of lace. This style, while not novel, is becoming and, if made of handsome lace, 18 of the ever new varlety. A hat with top of holly makes a holtday diversion to be worn for six weeks and then thrown out. Mrs. William Astor’s assembly ball gown will be her show dress of the sea- son, for even women of wealth have gowns that are worn more than once. Of heavy white, lustrous, trim- med with lace, and worn with diamonds, it is s model of the handsome gown for a middle-aged woman. No wo- man, by the way, ever grows old nowadays, and Mrs. As- tor, though she has married grandghildren and may.be & great-grandmother, is nome the exception. Mrs. = Whitelaw Reld {8 charming this year in oode tumes of all black, and Mrg, C. Oliver Iseiln, among the younger matrons, is gowned in the somber color more fre- quently than fn white. The faney for the all-black gown is such a growing one that the woman who wants to dress effectively cannot afford to ignore it. The gown must be fine and soft and exquisite in texture. 1f made of lace or of panne, of liberty or of chiffon, or of very soft crepe de chine or crepe de Paris, it is always becoming. But if made In the heavier, harsher materials it is not so apt to look well. There are tI wear black chiifon and black lace, but who cannot weaf black satin or black brocade. These heavy stuffs bring out the imperfections strongly, while the softer ones conceal them. So, in choosing biack, be sure that you get the kind that is becoming to you. Sensations in Furs. But it is in furs that the sensations are being produced. That fur can be treated in hitherto undreamed of ways is now plainly established, More than this, there are furs that look very elegant but which cost very little. This consideration brings them within reach of the many and those who have always wanted fur can now get it without mortgaging the old home to get the money for the purchase. In what is known as the real furs the price is very high and, perhaps, it is even steeper than in former years. The fact that chinchilla is’ growing scarce ow- ing to the dying out of the animals, and the fact that the Persian lamb is rarer than it was, both combine to make these two very popular furs higher in price. As for seal and sable, mink and ermine, these furs hold their own and continue to get their former price. If you want to Tay several aundred dollars for a fur coat. three-quarter or raglan, or auto, you can easily do so. But the beauty of the fur season Is found in the fact that there are such very good fur substitutes. Take broadtall, which is so very decorative in the scheme of dress, and notice how it can be imi- tated. You car get what is known as an astra- khan of the moire variety and use it ai- most as freely and as conspicuously as you would use broadtail. The astrakhan iz not cheap, by any means, but is rea- sonably so compared with the broadtail and looks almost as well. The dyed furs are good and you can get imitations of mink which will wear all the rest of this scason and all of next Alaska seal is effective and there are cat skins which can be made to answer very gocd purposes in the scheme of dress. But the sensations come in the treat- ment of the fur as much as in the fur itgelf. The general style or tone has changed, and the conventional boas and muffs and coats are novelties rather than standbys. Mrs, Astor’s New Boa. Mrs. Astor wore a white boa, which quite illustrated this. It was wide, from six Inches to a foot in width, gradually growing wider toward the ends. It was flat and there was fur only on one side, for it was shaped to the neck and was Jined with white satin. The old bocs, you remember, were round. Public admiration for the high square ghoulder is a thing of the past, and all oulders must slope. This calls for the flut-shaped collar, which is lald around the neck in such a way that it comes down to the shoulder line. The ends are long and hang quite to the ground, grad- ually growing wider as they near the faot. Perilously like the old-fashioned wide fur collar is this new style of boa; and perilously popular it is becoming, One raust really have something of the kind, e who can S LANGTE PEVIVAL. OrC THE PUFFED SLEEVES ‘THE FUR BOA AS DRAPED AROUND THE SHOULDERS OF AN EVENING DR.ESS. and #f one does not want to invest in fur ome can make this col- larg of bro- cade and bor- der it with fur, Feathers and fur are bothvery much worn. The feathers are ostrich feathers, heavy or fine, straight 4 or curled and in the forta of down or as the curled plume. Whole bow, wide, flat and lined with satin, are made of these ostrich tips, and boas of silk are, edged with them. The ermine collars, to be thrown around the shoulders, are very good, and you can make them flat, to be worn in the street over a cloth coat or in the house with an evening waist. Lady Colin Campbell, who goes a great deal with Mrs. Brown Potter, wears one of these wide ermine collarettes over her evening gown. On a recent occasion both she and Mrs. Potter wore the wide collar. Mrs. Potter had a collar of sable, and Lady Colin Campbell a collar of ermine, with numerous “eyes” in the fur. New Ideas in Coats. While it is the small things of dress that make furs the most sensational this season, there are still some very striking novelties in coats. One of these is the pony skin coat, which is the thing for the smart woman of the season: and another is the hare- skin coat, which is worn a great deal. It is made of a great many skins put to- gether in rows in a style that Is quite new this year. The squirrel skin coat is an- other that attracts the attention of the woman who goes out to buy a fur coat. Three handsome coats were seen on Fifth avenue the first cold snap. Though all were of decidedly different make and style, they showed more plainly than any other three coats could have done the wide variety of the furs of the season and the styles from which one can choose. One of the coats was an automobile, in pony skin. Another was a Japanese coat, in hareskin, and the third was an Eton, in squirrel. They were beautifully made and ever so expensive. The woman who buys at this which {s almost a between season, is wise, indeed. Not only does she have her coat for the cold weather of the winter, but she has it for next year., And by buying now she gets it at a lower price than though she had bought In September or October. All furs are marked down and this is the bargain time. The expense of keeping the furs during the long hot weather makes the dealer shy, and he tries to sell ason, even at considerable sacrifice to himself. The real fur bargains are not se much in the long coats, which, like dlamonds, hold their value well, but in the odds and ends. A woman who buys bargains in furs whenever she can find them . bought sev- eral long strips of sable for the trim- ming of a house gown. She desired long, parrow pieces with which to edge a long house coat. She got them and used them in such a manner as to make & very beau- tiful garment, which flies open to show a white liming.” The little border of chin- chilla 18 very good indeed for edging the summer hat, and you can very quickly make over your summer hat by taking off the lace and bordering the brim with fur. The Story of a Hat, A very novel style of trimming was noticed a short time ago upon the head of one of the most fashionable women in New York. Her hat, which was In gray, was trimmed with gray ehiffon. The whole top was laid In folds of the gray chiffon, and thres of the folds were bor- dered with chinchilla. A bunch of gray and black tails hung down at the back. This hat had seen three seasons, but was made new by the tafls and the edge of fur. For the fur garment it may be said that the coat or the jacket that is trimmed with fur is almost as good as the one that is all fur and sometimes better. One of the handsomest coats of the year is a velvet coat, cut Chinese, rather straight in the front and back, with sleeves that gradually widen toward the and. This coat has three collars of black vel- wvet. There is a standing collar of chin- chilla put on around the neck like a band chilla muff is carried. as though the whole judged from a standpoint of The long 60-inch coat is seldom seen, and in its place there the 50-inch coat in kersey, covert, In cheviot and in very heavy weight If & description has a little fur upon sults will be better than though itself wefe all of fur making heavyweight. The coat sieeve proper for any but the very soft froufrou materials the wide Japanese sleeve velvet, but when it comes the cloths, such as melton and covert, coat sleeve finds the greater favem A handsoms cloth suft trimmed fur was seen upon Fifth avenus one and, as its styls was one that easily be imitated, it is beneflt of any woman who might suit of that kind, ‘A Sult for Any Woman. It was made of cloth with a littls white in it, like the granite cloths or the lighter Oxfords. The skirt was s gored one, cut with the flare uvu::‘{ho foot and the sweeping back. It was trimmed around the bottom of the skirt with thres narrow bands of fur put on to gradually rise toward the back. One was about four Inches from the bottom, the next was six inches above the first and the third was six inches higher. The bands were only an inch wide and they were put on flat and plain, requiring very little skill. The coat was tight fitting and had long skirts, making it & three-quarter coat. It was very tight, except right in the front, where it bloused a little. A wide open vest revealed a handsome shirt walst, but where the fronts turned bagk the lapels were of fumand there was & flat fur collar of thé turnover style. The cuffs were fur, standing out well from the arm, and also of the turn-back kind. A sult of this description could be very easily made, and, perhaps, an old cloth suit could be remodeled, trusting to the fur to hide many blemishes. It is almost & pity to make up a new ‘sult in this style, as an old one remodels so well. In ‘such a manner was a deep gresn cloth suit remodeled and trimmed with meoire astrakan with the very best results, giving & very elegant suit, whereas the eloth was old and the fur much olden A furry costume that could not be imi- tated so cheaply was one that made its appearance one bright afternoon at a very swell musical entertainment. Fur and Laces. The dress was in black crape trimmed with black chiffon and black lace, with deep black lace ruffles falling from the shoulders. Over the shoulders was laid a fur collar with long stoles. The stoles were made of squirrel skin and were trimmed with white silk frogs for fas- tenings. The whole was lined with white satin. The craze for stoles has almost reached the top notch, and ends hang down at the front of everything. A wide hat was worn with & sharp up- turn at one side. It was bordered with squirrel tails and there were beads at one side. The beads were fastened upon hat pins that were stabbed inte the hat in random fashion, thus trimming the hat anew each time it was woin, and in the most impromptu way. v The little fur belts are also seen. They are lined and stiffened and are worn with the Etons. They are made of seal, of sable and of Perslan lamb. It is rather an oddity to ses the fancy button playing its part on the fus coat. Big buttons looking like woodem button molds are used upon the double- breasted coats. These are In red and in blue and in green. But it must be admit- ted that their use.is among the decided novelties and is not general. An imported Russian coat was trimmed in this manner, but as a-rule the fasten- ing for the fur coat is in sted or in velvet or In cordings, with the most elab~ g Ex i E i 4 i w i i ‘ : H il 53 ¢ % ! _orate tassels and long hanging ends. Great worsted or silk ornaments are used upon many of the fur coats, and ale ways with dressy results. Fringed bute tons are also scen, and very pretty they are. The trimming of a taffeta gown with fur was noticed this week. Fur cuffs, & collar and a belt were part of the gm and the skirt had a fur band at the of the deep taffeta flounce. —————— ) Colored Bacteria. Recent researches show that bacteris are great color-makers. Some use the pigments that they produce to color thelr own bodles, while others remain colorless, or nearly so, and paint the surrounding medium a bright red, green or blue. All microbes that make color do it in dark- ness as well as in light, but the presence of oxygen is absolutely necessary. The nature of the coloring matter is imper- fectly known, and it seems to be imert, except In the case of the purple bacteris, where it appears % have an important function in connection with nutrition. The purple bacteria are all sensitive to light, and the caoloring wmatter absords certaim ditions—a sort of bacterial chameleon.