The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 31, 1902, Page 7

THE SUNDAY CALL. D A — | Buttoned in the back and worn over a color, her waist is trimmed with rows of trim- ming that run across it, mak- | ing the summer girl a very | broad-chested person — This ‘ and other distinctive features mark its late-in-the-season peculiarities. s HE Sandow girl is in style. The new shirt waists are built so that a woman looks twice as wide as she is In her skirt she looks narrower, s sre very clinging and they are = far down es the knees. But with is different. Here the figure e broad and apparently muscular, the midsummer woman comes r being topheavy. e new waists ere made with the ghoulder plait. This s a fold of cloth which is put on in such a manner that it cts over the shoulders. In certain s called the “Gibsonian™ and its te effect is to make the shoulders look very wide. It is really more becom- ing to 2 slender woman than to a plump h styles are wearing it and adually getting used to the Jooks twice &s broad as she | y the same pecullarity. are tucked In rows of tucking run- und the arm and they are trim- ith bands of lace going round and round, all of which tend to make the gleeve large and the arm big. &s & rule show the trimmings not from the neck to the beit, but e figure and lace is used in a of other ways, always run- Ways to Use Lace. kind of lace trimming e and dressy upon the mer shirt waist and which fortunately is of a sort that can be put on at home. s of & wide band of lace inser- ix inches wide and this the waist directly under the ng in the back. another way of using lace upon waist, and for this, if it be & nice let lace is used. It is first seen form of a yoke rather deep, then a band of it around the bottom of waist 8o &5 to come in under the there are cuffs of the same t is the apparent desire of the summer t waist to close itself invisibly. You see how the little trick is done. but these are hard to get into 1l harder to get out of. Moreover, hooks show or are apt to do so and they do mot wash well. The waist that buttons down the back s quite the fad. It is buttoned in var- us ways, the most popular of which, just the moment, is under an invisible flap impossible to see where the A fold - runs dogn the waist, on either side of the exactly like it. front of & a waist as this bears ance whatever to the back. It far as buttons are concerned, be profusely trimmed with roidery, or with ribbon, or atever may be the chosen style of the o Black Velvet Finish. that buttons g little at one front is very artistic and in e w side of the new ones it is seen with small bows of ribk fastening it, each little bow being tied around a button. But these but- tons are only a bluff, the real work is dcone by smell pearl ones set underneath sttoned invisibly. e waist that buttons at one side is not of the double breasted variety. One side is cut wider than the other and the waist ttoned®where the edges meet, mak- it quite cool and different from the heavy @double breasted style. re now fastened to defy obser- waists are fast fdllowing their me of the new London styles are very cleverly contrived and the ng down the back is managed by s of curious little hooks greatly re- ing glove snaps. erything these Gays must be done in v able manner; garments that can- not be tubbed are not popular during the svmmer months and it is the alm of every woman who dresses smartly to wear clothes that can be put in the tub and rubbed. The tallor-made summer girl is speclally buflt on this order and it is her boast that all her garments can be washed. Really there are a great many summer dresses, wash dresses so called, that can not be washed. They must be sent to the cleaners for the magical process and their renovation costs by the season's end a little fortune, but that is quite another story and one that is apparently not taken intc account by the dressmakers and de- signers when they get up the summer wash dresses. Summer Trimmings. The summer shirt walst, when not trimmed with lace, and sometimes when it is lace trimmed, is hand embroidered. A little hand embroidery, no matter how little of it there may be, gives & certair air of distinction to a walst not to be gained In any other way. . Then there are waists that ags entirely embroidered and these posses§ a very great value on account of the hand work that is upon them. There are a few shirt walsts made out of handkerchief linen, with the fronts embroidered in white, a large design com- irom the belt upward so that the up- per leaves and sprays just touch the neck. These are done in white cotton a glossy finish, and the whole has a ery fine, sheer and elegant look. The blouse front still prevails and is even more popular than it was. The en- tire ywaist does not blouse, but Is quite on the tight-fitting order except right in the middle of the front, where it pouches over the belt. In Paris they are pointing this pouch to give the waist a iong look, but tue London shirt waists have a square blouse front, which shortens the waist a little, but is more becoming to the figure. Shirt waists are bought every month in the year, and from month to month the materials change almost imperceptibly, and you will notice that you yourself buy different materials as the season goes on, and from one goods you progress to an- other. Just now there are two extremes in shirt walsts, one being the very thin fine after- noon waist and the other the heavier one for utility. Madras in white and in colors is deservedly popular, and can be seen in white, pale blue and pink. The Durable Kinds. White Irish dimity is always good, and linen zephyr has a certain cool quality which makes it in demand at all times, Both of these wear very well, and now that the golf season is here this is no small consideration. In the heavier waists there is butcher's linen, which lends itself nicely to the embroidery needle, and white pique, while heavy can also be embroidered if the stitches are not too long or the patterns too coarse. Duck really adapts itself better to the polka dot, or, as the French say, the raindrop, and to the French knot, and really beautiful effects are produced in tkis everyday rhaterial by judiclous ar- rangement of the polka dot. Dotted Swiss 1s something that is very well known, and this year they are tak- ing the dots and scattering French knots through them. The Swiss is bought with as large dots as posstble, then upon these French knots are made. 1f industry holds out the French knots are scattered over the goods between the polka dots, and the whole has a very neat look and is quite distinctive, because it is something that cannot be bought ready-made. And, by the way, the prejudice against ready-made garments is wearing off. Pcople who once felt that they did ot want to wear what everybody else is wearing have now forgotten that idea be- cause of the wide range of goods offered. It has come to a pass that you can buy ready-made dresses and yet travel a whole day without seeing another dress exactly like your own. The August Waist. The August waist promises to be a 10- cent shirtwaist. Now this does not mean that the whole walst costs 10 cents, but it is an economical way- of saying that your waist was only 10 cents a yard., Ma- terials are very much reduced and cer- tain linens, albatross, cotton grenadine,, mousseline, cotton foulard, crash, twills, dimities and sporting’ linens can all be had at 10 cents a yard or a little over. So, also, can percales and cotton prints, and there are new transparent canvases with open work stripes that are very good for tubable suits. Unfortunately it is not the goods that cost these days. but the trimming that goes upon the goods, and it is no unusual things to see a waist whose materials certainly cost less, than a dollar trimmed with fnsertion that certainly cost more than a dollar, * The elbow sleeve is the sleeve of the summer, but it cannot always be worn. There are times when, however comfort- able you may be in such a sleeve you do not care to wear it, and for this purpose, that of lengthening the sleeve, there comes ‘the mandolin cuff, which is a deep adjustable puff of lawn or cotton slashed at one side in such a way that lace can be pulled out of the slash. This makes gomething that looks like a fringe or a flounce set into. the sleeve. There come very nice little gold pins for pinning the cuff to the elbow sleeve. The cuff is, of course, -another name for the puff which reaches all the way from the elbow to the wrist and which is finished with a narrow cuff-like point. A Liftle Sleeve Fad. The pins, which are of gold, or af tur- quoise, or of mock gems of any descrip- tion, are used to pin the two parts of the sleeve together and of course since they cost quite a little they must be distinctly visible. % The fad for using the mock gem pin is on the increase and really walsts are pinned everywhere it is possible to pin them and always with one of these fancy ornaments. There is a post at the back of the belt which is always occupled by a handsome pin and the back of the stock, the middle of the chou, the cuffs and the yoke all afford places for the display of such fancy pins as one may possess. It is the day for reviving the seal ring. The cameo has been “in”’ quite a little while, and all the family cameoes have beén pressed Into service. You see them now as breastpins and as buckles and stick pins, but the seal ring has only just appeared. 1t is time to jolly the elderly men in the family into giving up their old seal rings, and when you have got possession of them you must take them to a jeweler's and have them made into tops of pins. This must be done without removing the setting, for the glory of an old seal ring is in the.massive gold which sur- rounds it. It is well to simply rémove the hoop part of the ring and set the entire stone, gold. and all, upon a pin which can be used for the front of the stock or for any post of importance. Lacing the Waist. Shirt walsts will be laced this fall, though you do not see very many laced ones now. But it is certain that as soon as the flannel blouses appear there will come in vogue a rather intricate lacing extending down the left ‘side. It will be managed by means of worked holes, through which ribbon will be run. The ribbon’ will be tied in a big bow at the left .side ‘of the belt and the ends will hang. Persian embroidery is something that will ‘also reappear and it will be used to cover the buttons and buttonholes which secure the waist. Flannel blouses that button at the left side will have a strip of Persian embroidery running from the shoulder right down to the belt. The stock will also be a band of Persian em- broldery and possibly the belt- itself. About belts, summer belts and belts that are to come, one can say a great deal. It is the fashion to be industrious and the Industrious girl can make a very nice belt for herself out of heavy satin ribboh. She must take black satin but- tons and sew them upon the ribbon, which must be wide, in groups of three; around these groups she must scatter very large silk knots. i ese little groups go. all around the bel This is the style of belt worn by le¥ Randolph Churchill, now Mrs. Corn- wallis West. at a London afterncon tea the other day. Her gown was in white cloth and around the feet it had a very deep graduated| flounce with another ?Q’l‘:”%‘n‘b"“ it and a third one heading e. English Tailored Gowns The flounces grew narrower toward the top and and at the head of the uppermost ror 2 GHARDEI FARART one there wers groups of black buttens and knots between. This was called an English tailored costume and was intend- ed for a summer walking gown. Belts are embroidered to a considerabl extent. Quite a smart belt was in white leather fastened with a gold buckle in the middle of the front. The leather was cut to a point and bound with yellow satin ribbon. At each side thers Was a true lovers' knot in yellow satin ribbon, with the ends rather long and swirled and sewed fast to the leather. A belt, named the King Edward in honor of King Edward's rnr, was in burnt leather with small gold coronets set all the way around it. These gold orna- ments cost a few cents each and can be obtained at any trimming store. Another belt was trimmed witis cord put on in great curves all around the belt. In each curve there was set a medalion of lace and lbn the middle of the medalion & turquoise utton. The taflored belts have fobs hanging from the side and the fob matches belt buckle and ;thers is a stock buekl to match both. Beits continue to be either very wide or very narrow, and the wide ones aré worn higF 80 as to look like Josephine belts. Narrow ones are some of them scarcely an inch wide, and they are pushed down well in front, though not exaggeratedly so. The idea which prevails lmenr stout women that if they point the belt in front they will look absolutely slender has dis- appeared, and women have about resi themselves to the fact that if stout they cannot look thin. Treating the Belt. At the same time the woman who weighs over 200 pounds can attain a certain de- gree of symmetry, if not grace, if she will slightly raise it in the back; working together produce a waist line. To make a belt look high in the back it is very often cut in a curve or in two points, while the front is narrowed. There is a new wrinkle in beits which gives the postillion back after a new fash- fon. Tails made out of silk are buttoned to @ belt with big turquoise buttons, an the same stone is used for a buckle I front. This makes an ordinary belt qul dressy, as there is something about tu: quoise which gives an air of refilnement, probably because it is so smooth and glossy, Jets have always been fashionable ever since they came back, and you see them row in many capacities. One of these Is in the form of shirt waist trimming, which can be applied to any shirt waist. If yoa possess a waist that is a little out of date (and what woman does not?) procurs enough satin ribbon to reach acroi bust and let it be about four inch Cut in four pieces, sew it to the underarm seams and bring the ends around to the front, and there button them with a large button.’ When you have finished your work your waist “will be prettily strapped across the bust, and will have a becom~ Irgly full look. One of the newly Imported waists showed this strap finished with a little satin bow, with a large button set in th middle of the bow. The English cravat is very fashionable at this_ moment, though It is not specially new. It consists of a long strip of silkc ribbon which is tied directly under the chin in such a manner that the bows are very short, almost butterfly loops, while the ends hang right to the beit.” They gradually widen and are finished with a sharp pointed cut. Cravats and Neckties. The four-in-hand is now made out of figured ribbon and the handsomer the rib- bon the better. Ascots are made of white satin ribbon embroidered wtih green clovers, and in & stucy of the fashionable stocks one cer- tainly does ses a great deal of hand em- broidery, so’ that it looks as if every woman would have to turn embrolderer, ‘whether she wants to or not. In the new stocks you notice a tendency toward the long ends in front. These are tled not so much under the chin as lower down. Take a ribbon which is carricd twice around the neck and knotted under the chin in a tied double knot. The ends are now allowed to fall, and they should nearly come to the Kknees. But there is another bow to be tfed, and this is directly over the bust. It should be a bow with two wide loops, and if one is skillful enough there should bes four loops so that the whole thing when done is only a little longer than the belt. It is a good plan, unless you are skillful at bow tying, to tie the thing before it is put on and then fasten it in any clever way so that it will look as though it were freshly tied. This matter of tying a ribboa every time you put it on 'is one of which you will soon tire, for ribbon ties only once before it looks mussed-and after that it is not pleasant to gaze upon. The Coming of the Dot. In the summer shirt walsts and in thefr belts and stocks and cuffs and in every other part you notice the dot. The ten- dency to dot things grows, and there ai more and more methods of doing it. There is the big velvet lozénge dot, which is made by cutting lozenges of velvet of biue or pink-.and applying them to walsts according to taste. Take a waist of taffeta, plain and un- tucked, and apply lozenges of turquoise Velvet to the yoke and aiso to the Jower part of the sleeve. When you have com- gleled your work you will find that you ave made a really handsome waist out of it, and if you wdnt to give it the French finish you can Ippl{ lozenges to the lower part of the waist for a space of about six inches above the belt. The work must be done with small stitches, to look as though the velvet were woven in the goods. Several clever dressmakers are really gluing these dots ou and finishing their work with a few irvisible stitches. The summer shirt waist colors are pale and it is very difficult to get a rik waist. Very frequently they come. in com- binations of two, three and four pale col- ors, and one of the loveliest of these waists was in pale fawn and azalea. Azalea is a bluish pink. and it is a colop which goes very well as a hat trimming. Champagne cclored dimity is very pretty and can be made up over white to give it the soft pallor now demanded by Dame Fashion. '