The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 31, 1902, Page 10

10 THE SUNDAY CALL. y well settled that you ok pretty in the fashion of o matter how you do it. this result is a matter keep & woman awake »se superior bodies who study your looks and de- rself that which is most be- se very gonfident people will the effect that each woman , one that is pe- d that it is only in order to con- your own individ- verage woman—and supposing n average woman—will tell you t always decide for herself style. She will tell you trail over her shoulders becomingly coiffed. the poor thing do? - On told to choose and on the able to do so. to dress the hair high or 1 , the hairdresser will tell e matter of individual prefer- nen who have a very high forehead very long nose should not dress the who are short in nose and 2 look very sweet with the have an oval face can wear and the woman who dresses air straight back from her face d choose high dressing of the coif- so much how you dress tner high or low, as it is with. Trimming the Hair, The matter of trimming the hair has become ome of at importance, and when you know that one of the Leiter family imported a string of pearis, all just alike, perfectly in every way over the fore- , long encugh to drape nde the importance of dr the r correctly as it is viewed by the women who lead the fash- fons. The woman who wants to wear the colf- by Lady Curzon, Is & yard long. purpose well, 1" and rather ng that waxy ced in the imi- y the back in a puft hair a it over larger than over the comes al- That is the ure is a very 8p you must €an bear hav from the fore- k over the pom- ay locks out and all tongs to make to hang over the tem- he hair at the crow © _or three short cu ok very well. Now the back, and curl that - will back shoulder. Varden coiffure, The Crowned Head. There are y and many things that hair this year. And ra which stands up the front than ever arge. This is made imitation of the Queen's crown, and is very narrow at the sides and in the an. imitation tiara can from filigree silver, in be set tiny rhinestones, with one good diamond in the front. A crown that is very brilllant is in goid filigree, with garnets set in front, It ie rather small, with the point coming up tall, with garnéts set in a large oval 0 the Do Aside from the startling possibilities of the tiara, there are ornaments that are w. by society which are even more becoming and much less costly. The ribbon rose has taken a new lease upon popularity, and waxen leaves th: ere now used with it. The rose has a wax stem, and leaves that resemble those used in millinery, but the rose itself is made in ribbon very cleverly twisted and folded. The pear]l dressed coiffure is one that must not be neglected when one is try- ing to look one's best, for there is some- thing about pearls that well becomes every complexion that sets off the hair well, be it da light. . One way to dress the hair with pearls is to loop the strands over the fore- head and around the crown of the head and to fasten a small ornament upon the lowest string, in such a way that the ornament will fall down between the eye- brows in Cleopatra fashion. This is not a trying style if managed properly, and the hair can be curled and dressed with all softness with the pearls put on after- ward. The Forehead Ornament. This style of dropping an ornament on the forehead in the shape of a locket or a pendant of some kind was revived in Paris last winter, and so becoming did it prove that it became almost 00 popu- ar. All the women were wearing these lit- tle pendants, and the rivairy over them absurd. When the Countess a_ de Castellane appeared with the Esterhazy pendant from a tiny gold chain, the glorious diamond shining from the middle of her forehead, then society sald it was time to give up and go into something else. Making Her Look Young. It 18 certafnly odd how the styles in colffures are changing. The pompadofir is “in” more than ever and if you do not ;\‘ear a “‘rat” you must at least puff the nair. The parting is pretty well out and only a few still wear it. The only attempt at a part is seen in the military coiffure in which the hair is divided at one side and is then draped over the forehead so as to bring down a big puff right in the middle. Women who can find nothing becoming to them can try this. If they will part the hair at one side and dress it a I'Alglon, with modern modifications, they will find they have struck something that will give them a chic appearance and a youthful one. All the halr dressing tendencies are toward making a woman look young, And there Is no knowing where they wiil end. It women of forty are looking thirty and women of fifty are looking thirty-five what will become of the women of seventy? Will they look seventy or will they seek a coiffure that makes them fair and forty again? That is a question to be put to the coiffurist, for in the hands of the hairdresser much of the responsibility now rests. The shoulder curl is hung temptingly in the shop ndows and It looks, oh, so very attrac But somehow one does not readily pick it up. And this is a pity for it is a thing that all can wear and wear well. For the street it sometimes looks a little loud, in that it is conspicu- ous, but for the house, of an evening, nothing could be prettier. It dresses up the shoulders and gives a delicate soft frame to the face that is worth five years to any woman. And this is what the French say will be worn this winter, The shoulder curl The high round pompadour. Corkscrew curls upon the temples. very low knot in the back of the in curls. a s high coiffure threatening to come forward into the pompadour, Ornaments of all kinds, from diadems to_waxen fruit. fl]’uM)nx.s in knots and windmills and owers. Autumn ths. den rod M little sprays. They also say that the feathery aigrette the ornament that com- jewels and fluff in one of those strange creations that top the coiffure of the women who attend court balls. The three feather coiffure is one that Is worn only for a special occasion as it is too distinctively a court headdress to be worn gene Then, besi these styles, which are the conventional ones, there are numer- ous coiffures that are worn at the head- dress s, and when it comes to ) runs riot and there are as many different designs as there are heads to wear them. For the headdress dinner there is only one rule, namely, that the stvle selecied be adhered to and that the headdress be what is known as “faithful.’ The Elizabethan roll would not do at all with the modernized Victorian bang nor would the parted hair of the Pris- cilla days be in accord with the Janice Meredith curl. One must be consistent throughout, or the headdress will not be a success from the historical point of view. leaves arranged to make Powdered halr is coming in again, so much is .assured. It will be seen at din- ners, at evening receptions and at balls, but most of all at dinners, when every effort i to be made to introduce that which is novel. The style of powdered halr vived by the Countess de Castellane, who powdered her raven tresses and appeared at a dinner side by side with her blond Count, the two making a very youthful and attractive picture, for they dress in such a that “their“belongings har- monize. A certain well known London poet used to dress in the sunflower colors, he and his wife, the one in yellow and the other in brown, and very charming they looked together. The Count de ‘Castel- lane has a way of so arraying himseif that his attire seems to match that of wife, though both dress in perfect The Countess wore puffs at the sides and a bang in the middle, with a high knot, from’ which hung a feather or two. But the way to dress powdered hair is to heap it very high and to pull the front low on the forehead in a full drape. That makes the becoming low curve and, at the same time, shows off the soft +HE TOPSY TOP-KNOT NODERNIZED TO THE HEAD OF THI. fluffiness of the white halr, Hairdressers say that if the halr is properly shampooed and the head kept clean by brushing powder does no harm.upon the hair and can be put on daily without ill effects. But you must bo careful not to sprinkle in the destru tive diamond dust, which, while it gives a sparkle, certainly does cut the halr. The dlamond headdress has been reviv- ed in the Fauborg St. Germain, but it is not recommended to any woman unless Was re-s SO0CIETY, BELLE she has the patience to shake the dlamond sparkies out of her hair g:meanmy af- terward. They will not brush out, but must be shaken out by hand until the hair is free from them. In the side of the high white coiffurs there may be pinned a rose, and for this there are delicate pink roses. . Ragged biue flowers are effective in white halr, but the deep red and the sharply contrast- ing shades must be avoided against the powdered coiffure. HE POWDERED MEAD S COME ITX STVLE IAINE AND IS THE PRETTIEST oF. ALL DIMNMER . OIFFORES