The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 13, 1902, Page 6

SUNDAY CALL PracTreal . Epveazion Sewing School Where Rnowledge Qan Be Had For the Asking. N ay. Run ut i me maker bias and a dress- irl them in on the of them,” called out he re suddenly spie fas nodded run- could. s her head and girls oftentimes were cs and that they had about criticizing their friends. § teacher ex- no while they are learning to baste T overcast and hem and b and wristbands, “I to fashion coats—in ghort to be x gnd tailor N chat and an my ov recreation than any- tire girls are supposed in some occult Now no e acquired-the art of wie fle could sew as well as a certain prc very wom or mending. Indeed, as to bluff a the better class v about little it from ha s or from hav: , practical ex- this is not the and every nationalits -éyed, eager, hopeful. the Russian, the Pole, the d the Ttalian, not to mention the America I bending alike over their work. There are girls of 12, girls of 20, learning the rudiments of the occu- A€ S€W- pation which is theirs by birthright. out how One the most remarkable things rem is the rapidity with which e to learn. Most people can ily the long, weary hours spent hey could run a straight seam. arning to gut and fit a frock, thing which .took long months, if not years, of apprenticeship. vas som. the “Take that sleeve out—it twi: sounds so awfully even now. The pu teacher, with her scientific methods, has done away with all Why Animals Eat Salt.| WITTY and somewhat irreverent | person, in writing on the Cheshire | distinct blic school those tucks in industry, said: *“Man cannot live | by bread alone: he must have Balt.” Although many treatises on diatetic: with salt as if it were merely a con- & diment, it is universally recognized to be *cropper and earned exactly 16s a hing more. Indeed, it is an indis- | week. And y amounted to this— ble element of the/food of man a.ndi that the gir kept their one room . [ filthy, falle sake him comfortable -known authority asserts that | S8 herself seldom got up til the after- the annual consumption of salt | noon. Anyh home was “upsiie below twenty pounds per head ot | down,” a deserted it. on the public health is likely | 5 3 In regions of the earth where London ts ific in such examples; yet is p scarce article it is regarded as | v n is not s 0 this respect 3 '":‘hl‘;fi?}fv, . B An PECt| a substance of great value. Salt starva- | - o | tion is, in it as distressing as thirst | » London alone are some 13,000 Fogdg o | m{:‘_n’i“‘;:’;, e | lthough it shows itself in a | or under. They begin early—the girls & e P s the Medical “ Bit san obist nend i 13 years of ag A(.kvl.l.(.ldr\, gy | gbslesat e copndispon oo s = SIS Jet come to my bamn produce a definite disease, but reduc»s‘ in the metropolis re are the vitality of the body as a whole, 02 o M o, 15 years, 2 s and widows aged 16, 164 | tnay the persons deprived of it fall more wives and w b years of age, 91| readily victims to prevailing epidemics, ged 18, 2712 aged 1 6672 wives and | a5 well as epidemic maladies.” | widows at 20 years usbands are; But, you may ask, wild beasts do not naturally fewer. re are 787 hus-| have galt supplied to them, yet they man- | bands from 16 vears old, and 2022 | age to exist In fairly good form, and if | left just 20 years of alone probably die of old full age, The majority of such mariages are con- rs and sweet memories of juicy | tracted in absolute poverty. Not a sov- onaries, eaten without salt. Well, | erelgn—no, nor half a sovereign—has been wild besats take advantage of salf | saved. The few “sticks nd sticks, in- n they can get it, but the reason why | deed, they are—are obtained on the hire | they can do without it better than we is | system, 1 shilling down that they eat their food whole and un. | The girl neither cook nor sew: | Prepared. | to sW e is averse as well We use salt because there are salts in | as vnaccu ared in some squal- | our food in its unrefined state, as nature | ud, home, she the street two-roome it, before it is boned, peeled and cooked; passed in the time she could steal from prepares skinned and and we must school replace these salts, or our bodies will noti 8o, too, with the boy husband. The|be fully benefited by what we eat. overcrowded home, with its want of wel- We use salt also because our blood con- come, throws him on the street. His life, | tains it, likewise our muscles, our nerves, reacting on an unawakened mind, makes | 4d, indeed, our whole bodies: and 1t | kis days deadly dull. He craves for gets used up during the life processes citeme society—change s he grows | cgnstantly being carried on within us. from boyhood to adolescence, he needs a| But the salt contained in natural foods, companion. And so, partly from natura] | 21d that required for our living bodles, sexual selection and partly as his age and | IS not “common’ salt, but combination wages increase, because he associates | of, that substancc with phosphates and | ore With men, he seeks a wife.—London | cueey fogs; Which are eve - 1 w 0 !| exsary and more natural than common Mail. salt itself. EACH GIRL- HE OWN GOWIN | in the matter of accur; | are marked upon white cloth. lit. WIFHOUT COST, tha: tediousness. She teaches not by ex- ample, but by precept. There is really nothing dry nor monot- enous in the sewing lessons as taught in our schools. One glance at the scholars would attest that much. The first stage is to hold the needle cor- rectly. Few girls have to be told that. The stitching lesson is ‘the first one of any real importance. Running, back- stitching and overhand stitching are all a part of the drill. There are exercises .in cross seams or feather-stitching and in the bugbear of the school—buttonhole work. JUST TR FOR. THE ach girl must make so many button- holes before she can be advanced to ny- thing higher,” says the teach They must be good enough to piss muster be- fore she has any hope of making any- thing, even the llest article. A pig eve will not do,” and judging from the vards and yards of them it would appear that it is an art to make a buttonhole that will pass muster. Every detail of this work must bear the closest scrutiny of the teache before the next step, the cutting and drafting of pat- térns, is permitted. A good scheme is here brought into use. To train the eye v in length, shape and position of stitch geometrical designs Then they ed with colored cotton, and every little departure from perfect work is thus brought into prominent view. “Dressmaking in all its branches” is in- cluded in this establishment. Only half a waisg Is made at first. ‘The boning, fac- ing, Sewing of hooks and eyes, thg bind- ing of seams, the making and adjustment of ‘the stock collar, must all be just right before the word is given that will allow the finishing touches to be added. And then comes the hardest of all things—a skirt. That is the last of all and the girl who can turn out a faultless- ly fitting one could command anywhere from $10 to $30 if she were doing it for a shop. The vrice would depend on the lo- cation of the shop, not the merit of the Wwork 1tseMf. EADY FINISHING The girls have bad epidemics. When one girl commences a petticoat the en- tire class sally forth and buy the ma- terial and everybody has a brand new skirt before mother has time to think about it. Then comes everything else in the underwear line until a complete set is finished and laid away in lavender. Just at present every one is busy making shirt waists. That 1is for two reasonms, it is warm enough to have them and in plenty and then again the bargain counters are laden with lawn, pique and challies. The schoolroom looks like a pretty flower garden with the dainty rose, the bright red and the pale blue tints that are scat- tered about the desks. Darning always had an unpleasant name and no one could be induced to say any- T is a mistake to suppose that picture dealing requires necessarily a fine per- ception or appreciation of artistic mer- One must bear in mind that many buyers to-day buy a thing not because it 1s good, but because it is scarce. An instance of this occurred recently when a ddaler reported to a prominent buyer that he had found a rare picture. He has and is proud of some considerable reputation as a connoisseur, and on re- ceipt of the news saw the picture and felt he could not live without adding it to his collectio ‘What is your price?” wenty thousand pounds.” “I'll take it.” The purchaser wrote out his check, but as he was about to leave for a tour of l LONDON PICTURE DERRER’S TRICK. the Continent of Europe he asked the dealer to keep the picture till his return. With him he took Introductions to a cer- tain noble family—so noble and so occu- pied in the invention and discharge of duties appropriate to their lofty station that they had no lelsure for or inclina- tion toward art. In a dusty corner of their ancestral halls he saw a Custy picture—the picture, Lis victure. It had been there for gen- erations, and very little inquiry sufficed to establish its authentieity. Then he wrote a plain, unvarnished let- ter to his dealer. The latter replied that he deplored the mistake; he had believed the picture original, but would, of course, refund the money. On his return the duped buyer duly received the £20,000 and signed a form of receipt stating that he had received it in exchange for the picture. Whereupon the dealer posted off to another . prominent buyer less likely to be acquainted wich such very noble families. ‘“‘Here,” said he, producing the receipt, ‘‘we have just purchased this picture from the great connoisseur, Mr. Blank, for £20,000. Our price is £25,000% It was paid. —_——— - The famous surgeon, Sir Henry Thomp- son, was called in early in his career to perform an operation on the King of the Belgians. This brought him a title and fame, but, says he, “though it made my fortune, it spolled my practice, for I was inundated with applications for similar operations, and henceforth could do little EITEL P]I:C:" SHIRT z WAIST | | thing that would better its reputation. But according to public school methods it is really shorn of some of its unpleasant features. The stitches are drawn up on the wrong side, the edges firmly strength- ened and the open filled in a diamond shape—a great improvement on the old square or round shape, which was apt to ravel out the surrounding part. One of the girls laughingly complained when her work was commended: “Well, T'm not terribly glad it is so fine. I got myself right Into a flourishing business. The darning for the whole family comes my way every Monday and you may rest assured there are two different kinds done.” So the good fruits of the sewing school crop up in unexpected places. If the girls would only try once in a while they could s so easily lft a burden off their mother’s shoulders that seems very difficult to carry sometimes. For if there is one per- son under the shining sun who can do al- most anything and everything., who can work twelve hours in the day and then find time to do a little more, that person is mother. So the lifting of a little weight is ex- perimented with. Each girl is obliged to pick up after herself. No matter how busy she is or how absorbed in her work, when the time comes she must stop every- thing else and fold and put away all that she has been using and working with. Everybody knows how hard it is to pick up after one’s self. It isn't a half-pleas- ant task. and is one that is always will- ingly shifted on somebody else if there happens to be a somebody. Yet here tne girls are taught that it is quite as easy to put a thing where it belongs as to put it somewhere else. The. handling of it amounts to the same thing, and :rouble is averted and order maintained. If you do not belleve this try it and see for yourself. It is not a half-bad plan, al- though it is not popular until one is thor- oughly acquainted with it. And, last but not least, the despjsed of all thin is not neglect- ed, but it is taken to right cordially. No matter how good-natured and industrious a person is, the minute an old gown is resurrected from the depth of the closet there 1s bound to be trouble. It requires so much thinking, so much planning and so much ingenuity to make “auld clathes look 2’maist as well's the new” that It is a real task. And unless one is skillful the effort is apt to be so absomtely woe- begone that there is nothing left but a fit of the blues. How many sewing girls can convert last summer’s frock into one for this season? To be sure, make something that has two sleeves and a back and a front, but when you haye said that you have said about all. The girl who can make any kind of a success of such work is a prize, and you cannot get her for love or money unless you have thought about the state of summer affairs in the middle of winter. She can command anywhere from $1 50 to 33 a day, according” to her making over, they can ability, and have every day in the year filled, including Sundays. And half of e frockmakers come from our public schdo! It they didn’t finish their course there they at least laid a firm foundation. Why is it that so many people buy their clothes ready-made? Everything, from underclothing up to wraps. Merely because they simply can- not get any one who can suit them and not charge sixty prices. People are wiil- ing glad to pay a fair price for any- thing that re y pleases them, but to have material ruined or to pay more to have old gown remodeled than a new one w 1d ¢ that is another ques- tion. The girl who can make her own clothes can do the same pily. and, for that matter, Style is what is always The at majority of gown- not very particular about che gs if the outside effect is new, original and smart All this knowlec ge is yours for the ask- ing, and imperceptibly you may learn how to be neat, economical and industrious. And, really, any or all of these lessons would not be a bad th no m g for any of us, ter how accomplished we may be. A very curious bird’s nest is preserved at Salem, Mass., in which State the nov- ity was found. The story of the nest is very Inter The cow bunting of that sectlon never buflds a nest, but the female bird lays her eggs In the nests of tfiose biyds which feed thelr young on insects. In the case in question a cow bunting left afregg in the nest of a sparrow. in which was one egg of the latter. When the sparrow re- turned she saw that an intruder had been there. She remembered that she had one egg and no more; and here be- fore her were two. What was to be done? She consulted with her mate, and finally they hit upon a plan of action. They built a bridge of straw and hair directly over the two eggs, making a second story in the home, and thus leaving the two eggs below out of the reach of the warmth of her body. In the upper apart- ment she laid four eggs and raised her brood. When the sparrows left the nest it was taken down, with the two eggs still in it, and preserved as a curlosity. the visitor replied. Beauty Unappreciated. can girl is so generally conceded that it may be a surprise, remarks that there is a spot on the earth wherc her appearance fails to make a favorable In this respect an American girl, recent- ly returned from the Orient, relates an wondering. if the comments she so often receives are not the most barefaced flat- deception. It happened in this way. A short time trierd who resided in a part of the coun- try little frequented by foreigners. One quaint thoroughfare of the town, cbserved by the populace in general, when objects of curious attention on_ the part of two Japanese girls, evidently of the lowed close on their footsteps. Fresently the resident turned to her scems we are the subjects of a good deal of comment on the part of the young they are saying?” “I cannot guess “Well, you must promise not to turn and violently resent thelr criticisms.” “Then this is a translation of what they have been saying about us. Said Miss THE beauty and charm of the Amerl- the Chicago Record-Herald, to learn impression. amusing experience that has Kept her tery and the looking glass a miserable before leaving Japan she was visiting a afternoon they were sauntering down the they became conscious that they were the well-to-do in particular, who fol- visitor with a smile and remarked: *“I women following us. What do you think “Please tell me.” “Certainly.” Peach Blossom to Miss Chrysanthemum: ‘Oh, do look at those foreign women. See ! how strangely they are dressefl. wear short kimonos just like Hcw very improper.’ ™ s,’ acquiesced the other. ‘The f en have no taste in dress. % e I have been once, eign woman's toilet is complete without a stuffed bird on her head. If she has not encugh money to buy a whole stuffed bird, she buys a head, the wings or some feathers. They are very strange, the for- They he me; In no for- | eign women.’ *‘And their walk. ? look at their so ungainly, judl like great, hig interposed the visitor. “T've heard enough, or 1 shall begin to imagine Tm the most hideous creature on earth.” rhuch | | | that the howl! is used almeost exclu: —=+ UPPOSE you are out walking with a friend and go into the yard where Vocabulary of a Dog. his dog guards the property. {he dog comes bounding toward you, wagging his tail so violently that his whole body twists and turms. Of course you know what this sign language means, As the dog comes toward you he barks three or four times. It is a joyous bark, which tells you at once how glad he is to see his master. As he draws near he rec- ognizes you as a stranger and at onee re- treats. A low, slow. growl gurgles up from deep in his throat. It is simply a challenge and an inquiry—a question mark. But a dog growls when he becomes an- gry at another dog and wishes to enter a fight. Listen closeiy the first oppor- tunity that presents itself and you will learn how different are these two growls. The growl of inquiry is siow and rather deep, while that of anger is higher and is given with greater rapidity. If you will watch carefully, another pecvharity will be seen—the whole faclal cxpression of the animal changes with these two kinds of vocal expression. Wkhen a dog growls at the approach of a stranger the face is rather placid and you will see that the lips hang well over the teeth and, the hair along the dog's back lies flat. In anger the eyes become abncrmally bright, the teeth show white between the tightly drawn lips and the long hair -of the back stands almost on end. Another: sound which a dog makes is the long drawn howl which is usually heard when he sits under the light of the moon and tells how unutterably lonely he is. This same sound is sometimes heard when a large bell is rung or a tin he blewn close to the animal. It w Se‘:rl': sivel te express some pecullar emotion eancil by a loud and prolonged noise, or. on the - other hand, by impressive stiljness, —_———— ¥ “Wasn't that an odd thing for the min. Ister to say just as we were leaving, asked the Chicago bridegr i Sriaa legroom of hig “I con’t think I noticed what he said” replied the bride. “What was it E “‘He invited us to come again. Oh. that was just ordinary politeness. He always does my marrying. ‘—Detroit Free Press.